bignev

Hiya chaps! Do the Voyagers have a non return valve on the low pressure system on the way to the fuel filter? I ask as last year my Renault van decided to be a bit of a naughty thing, and would wind over and not start on a couple of occasions. Giving it throttle made no difference. Called my breakdown service and they popped out and read no faults at all. Because it wasn't a problem with the electronics as it turns out. Next time thankfully my brain quickly put together lots of the bits from this forum on some of the problems, came up with a fuel situation, and pumped the primer bulb on the inlet to the filter in the engine bay - quite high up I might add, well above the top of the engine by about 7" I reckon, took a couple of goes but then it chugged into life, got itself going and was fine while running. I got to my job, after 5 minutes went to move the van and it told me to bog off. After a few failed attempts we hit on this - with the aid of my mate, I pumped the primer bulb while he cranked it over, and it eventually chimed into life. Drove fine on the way home. New in line primer bulb / non return valve later and it was back to usual. I didn't touch anything else at all. I'm going to duplicate and put this on @@oldginger post regarding his not starting up.

Yep I know them well, and I know from my experience some stuff is so much cheaper it's still worth the carriage versus the cheapest in the UK!

Hi there! I don't know about the US versions of it being the same or different to ours, but the side steps are available for yours on ebay after a quick look. Why is it you are interested in those from across the pond?

Hello and welcome! Have a search in the vehicle assistance sections for generation 4, there are several posts on it! The good news is the bearings do not get disturbed for the job. The bad news is that it can be a complete pain to get the discs off, mine were, obviously after the shoes are backed right off, as the build up of rust on the inside of the disc creates a nice lip to hold the buggers on. And yes you are correct, if you're doing it, then while it's stripped you will need all the "small parts" springs, clips etc. for the shoes, but in reality may not actually need shoes - they don't by design get rubbed, they only (try to) hold it still - but the corrosion may have trashed them anyhow! I would have them to hand while I was doing it. Well actually I did, past tense, and changed them. It's still garbage!!

Hi guys. I've stayed out of the discussion as I'm not a diesel owner, but I just thought I should clarify the point of a 1/4 way up the TEMP gauge - the engine isn't running, it surely should be at the bottom? ? Now I don't think that if the ecu thought it was warmer it wouldn't start, my diesels fire up with NO glow plug action from cold so pretty sure that's not where I'm heading. But WHY is it reading way warmer than it is? I guess you've tried a tickle or more of throttle? Or ginger did you mean the fuel gauge? As you said on your second post. Totally appreciate you've got a whole bucket of poo going on mate. I wish I was closer to give you a hand on this. We were there 2 years ago with my wife's mum.

I hope yours was more accessible than mine!!

Hi guys! @@Daz264 I did mine a couple of years ago, quite awkward on my V6 petrol as the front bank exhaust runs round that way, and I have some LPG kit above it to, but I think I remember taking the battery off on mine for a bit more access, can't recommend it though as I seem to have read recently some wonderful things happen if the battery is off or dead for a while. Mine has so far been ok on that front, so far....... Most time consuming thing I had was cleaning up the face for the new gasket! You won't have to do the fluid, especially as you you say above it's been done recently. It seem to be above the fluid line. I did ours as it was making a buzzing noise when shifting from neutral, read up a bit, came to the wrong conclusion, got one and changed it. No difference. Ah well.

Hiya Andy! Hope you and yours are keeping well mate!

Flipping Heck!! Now, I am guessing, but are both bolts in the bottom of the shock absorber? The place where it bolts to the hub casting assembly.

I'm right there with you all too frequently I would add to that list the sliding doors - Love them!

On each press of the end of the stalk can you hear the pump running? May need to have an extra pair of hands or ears for that! I don't know if it's worked fine on the days in between of course! It's just a guess but it could be the little non return valve in the line, leaking back a small amount, so that you almost fill the line the first time, but not quite, depends how long you ran the pump for. And sadly I don't know where that is, not had a shufty on ours yet!

Hi there! Would that be the 4th Generation, up to 2008, or 5th Generation, from 2008 onwards, slightly squarer design? From previous posts on here, not my personal attempts, 4th Gen is far from a simple job. Unless of course there has been any recent product developments of course!! No knowledge of 5th Gen sorry pal!!

Jolly cheap money! Mine were quite expensive at around £230, from Germany, but just dug out the receipt and there's no name on it sadly, I do remember that the make on the damper was one I recognized, KYB I think. They were however complete units, damper / spring / top mount & bearing. But mine is petrol - is yours? Or is it diesel? They are different units.

That's a sod the bolts wouldn't come out of the clamps for the anti roll bar bushes!! Even more of a sod that it hasn't made it go quiet. At one point I had a "graunch" noise on ours, related to down / up when going over speed bumps, so when a top mount bearing went as well I fitted a pair of complete struts. They really can be a pain. But apparently not quite as much as the 300C for suspension noises I see from reading on here too.

Welcome! I think we would all like to find that one! Sadly from my own experience it's a matter of using all 4 comparison sites, then Aviva, Direct Line, and any others not on comparison sites. The moneysavingexpert site by Martin Lewis gives a good run down on this, and also the order that is best to run the sites in. I had Admiral be brilliant for 2 years, then rubbish for the last 4, and Aviva great for 2 years, followed last year by a 30% hike! And my wife gets a 20% discount on Aviva as an ex employee and pension holder!! Now with Sheilas wheels, just about to renew for the 2nd year. There's just no rhyme or reason to why they like some people or cars!

If you are stow n go mine had a connector come undone in the well at the rear drivers side, I had wet carpet when the washer was used but dry rear window!! Just pull the carpet out from the rear corner - carefully of course! I can't remember if the back plastic boot trim came off to make it easier, but that does pop out and clip back in.

Hi there! Very weird, were any of the other suspension parts dismantled as this point? Like the wishbones? I'm not sure what you are referring to with the "top and bottom rubber on the strut" comment? I would follow this for the rear dampers but not for the front McPherson strut spring / damper assembly on these.

Yep keep you and yours safe pal! We've really been reluctant at doing anything. There can be such halfwits in the shops on my rare visit, not a remote clue, and no sense, about keeping apart, when this covid becomes bright fluorescent colours for us I'll be less concerned! And yes the infrequent lifestyle is rather at odds with these beasties diesel engines and tiddler battery. I've just been to the shed and the new one I took off the Kia Sedona 2.9 (before we sold it last year) is a significantly bigger rascal, as I've got the old one our Voyager next to it.

I've even been out with the battery charger on our petrol !! And on the other car too, a petrol Subaru Outback 3.0 H6. That came with a Euro Carparts special, a Lion brand (NOT Lithium Ion as it fools your brain into wishing), 480 cca, when 580 are available from Yuasa and Exide. It's still doing the job so I'm holding out till winter then I'll have an excuse for the Mrs.

Good choice mate! And yes that would be very useful info if you go round it and see what isn't working without it in. With the door open - I've had cars lock when the battery is reattached. I personally would put the battery back on, let it do its computer start up sequence for as long as you feel is required, perhaps listening to the clicks and clacks going on. Then pop the fuse in, ready to leg it round and pop the key in, or have the Mrs handy sat in the car with the door open and she can put the key and turn it on. (my apologies if that is a sexist or otherwise comment nowadays, perhaps "significant other half" would be more PC) The alarm comment is probably as you guessed, insurers can and will be arses given any tiny wriggle room. But unless they needed it for transporting a gang for a job it's probably fairly safe as you say, I agree!! Good luck to them nicking mine!

Aha! Right then I'm with it, I think! Don't worry - you're in good company with old and rambling - I have a reputation amongst my customers for talking (a lot), going off at a tangent (Ronnie Corbett in that chair anyone?) and coming back, and getting a bit of work done too. Good job I work on a price, not on an hourly rate, they'd never have me back!!!! So we could have a whole host of functions that are off line right now, along with the alarm. But what could - possibly - maybe - if we're lucky - be the case is also that the alarm will now be quiet as the handshake to the key immobiliser has happened? And there is no longer a problem? I'm with @@QinteQ on sod the neighbours, the problem needs sorting and there is only one way to know. I am presuming you are normally a respectable member of the community - as you clearly care because you haven't just done it up to now, so if they can't accept that poop happens, and to sort it may cause a bit of noise for a short while this afternoon, or in the morning, well knickers to them (but perhaps not at 11 tonight ) Stick that fuse back in and have the door open ready to shove the key in !!! Let the car see the transponder in the key, at ON position, and hopefully you may be good again - fingers crossed. I'm just youngster at almost 54, but we've been keeping ourselves very much well out of circulation, with our twin 7 year olds! And I quite agree we have been so lucky compared to a large number of poor people. Not my direct friends or customers, but some only once removed, have died from it. Awful. A bloke I do know was on a ventilator - that really is an understated thing isn't it, it's ruddy life support - but came through, about a month ago, and he is still totally crock now. I'm a heating & gas engineer (well currently, but I quite like this semi retirement pace!) and have lots of elderly customers, so made the decision to stop working around 16th March, as I did NOT want to carry that virus around into peoples homes. No matter how careful you try to be, it could happen. I have been to a very small number of breakdowns & leaks, but only if I couldn't talk them through sorting it. One 87 year old lady I went to didn't reckon she was up to pulling the washing machine out Those hand wipes I used for muck and oil turn out to be anti bacterial too!! Shame it's a virus, but I'm informed it'll still get killed by them.

Hiya @@QinteQ , how are you keeping? You definitely know more than me on that (but in my laziness I haven't looked up the diagram! ) What I couldn't grasp, reading back over the post, was that @@maxcaddy seems to indicate that In post 7 that "it all seems to run ok now" And in post 12 "At least that way I can put the Fuse back and not worry that the Alarm will go off again if I disconnect the Battery for a long while" So I guessed it was out, but everything was working ok. Apart from the alarm. But then I kind if got lost on whether the fuse was in or out, and confused as to what, right now, the problem actually is? @@maxcaddy I get that there was the problem with the alarm / siren going off, but is that not doing it now? I have definitely confused myself!!!!!

Hi there! Welcome! Just some basic stuff - have you put a multimeter on the battery to check voltage? It should be above 12.7 volts for a good battery. It's usually better to post questions in the vehicle assistance sections as not everyone check in on the newbie section, as it's often just a hello message kind of thing!

So, to clarify, is that pink fuse in or out at the moment?

Don't know if you've tried this technique that I seem to remember worked on one car I had - Reconnect the battery, and put the key in the ignition all the way round (not trying to start) and eventually (a few seconds - seemed like ages) it recognised the key transponder. The LED light went out. But if you have already had the key in, and the immobiliser light goes out, then sadly that probably won't work.