Semmysonic

Me either, still think too early for connecting phones. Had a phone kit in an 06 BMW which involved plugging a big Nokia into a slot in the center console!

I'm sure I've seen some clear style rear lights on US ebay. Just search "chrysler town and country" or" dodge caravan" lots more choice and not too expensive either. Don't know about the before 04 but chances are they will be different.

Can't imagine the phone thing would be compatible with any modern phone. Tech has moved on so much since these units were made

Yeah that's it, screen also in rails, I'm thinking about try to put a second screen on for the back row of seats, do t K ow how easy it will be though

Fuse first then check there is power to the motor

Ah that's a completely different remote, same head unit just a different dvd unit. Strange that they don't work in the same way though as it's the same head unit.

I think it's just for the auto dim mirror to stop headlight glare

I have a slightly different model with a separate 6 disc changer bellow the headunit. On my system the screen only plays when you press the headphone symbol in the remote, the symbol then pops up on the head unit screen

Garage did my last plug change during the service, done less than 5k in 12 months and they were past their best . try to go for a set developed for lpg, they aren't cheap but they make a difference.

My wife won't even contemplate driving ours, can't blame her though, we live near Birmingham and it can get a little interesting squeezing it through rush hour traffic

There is workshop manuals floating about on here, take a look in the thread about huge battery drain

Off the top of my head the gap should be about 0.8. Think I used ngk laserline plugs

Also check the gaps on your plugs, lpg runs better with a slightly smaller gap than standard petrol plugs.

Blueprint rings a bell but I'll have to check. After some research the best advice I found was, buy the best quality you can. Even the best quality plugs only seem to last about 12 months or so.

Does the tailgate work as it should?

I'm thinking if it was a cable failure then only one door would not work and not both

So they open close via the buttons inside the car?

Just a silly one is the ignition key in the correct position when you remove it? I Only ask because the barrels can get sloppy which makes it possible to remove the key whilst on acc position and not off position. Acc is all the way around anticlockwise . Off is one click back clockwise.

Just thinking about adding a second flip down screen on the overhead rail. 1. Is it possible in the first place ? 2.Would it be as easy as running a cable from the screen that is already there. I'm not great with electrics but I'll have a bash :-D

Thanks for the info, don't need it yet but probably will in the near future. Never gets boring with these cars does it :-D

My apologies, I went for the exide, same size as you went for. It's been on for almost 2 years with no issues.

Can't remember off the top of my head, I will take a look what I used later. In the mean time There are probably a few threads on this forum with some good advice (battery issues are a common problem)

The battery you have may be a little on the small side, however having said it shouldn't have drained it that quick! I have heard of batteries being drained if the key isn't turned to the correct position (don't know how true that is though)

Mine is doing odd things electricly speaking too. Had a few starting issues 2years ago, think it was the interior lights drain the battery if the doors were open for too long+kids using the back doors. Anyway new battery solved most of the problems. I'd replace the battery first off. Still have Flickering lights which I'm currently trying to solve. I am thinking the alt might need replacing. Before that I will change the Aux belt, had to change the idle pulley a few months ago but ordered the wrong belt so the belt never got changed, didn't fancy doing it in the bad weather.

I'd be more inclined to think the noise was from the brake caliper as aposed to the disc. The clamping force between the wheel and the hub should me more than enough to stop the disc rotating. If not there would be a lot of sheer force on the studs (even with the shoulder)