andyb2000

Sorry just saw this, yes I just used a cheap siphon pump from ebay, similar ones are http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/DELUXE-SYPHON-SIPHON-PUMP-KIT-MANUAL-PUMP-EXTRACT-OIL-PETROL-DIESEL-FUEL-LIQUIDS-/262809527857?hash=item3d30ab2631:g:hP8AAOSwNnRYfBh6 I found that by pumping out all of the fluid from the expansion tank and squeezing the pipe a few times and repeating to pump out of the expansion tank there was no leakage when I disconnected the pipe to add the inline stat.

Hmm, depends on what it's finding. Are you getting the ABS or brake warning lights coming on whilst driving? (Remember on MOT they don't hook a scantool up, if it has dash warnings on they'll fail but otherwise they won't pull codes) If the ABS/brake light comes on during driving then it's the rotation sensor not sending the right 'speed' or movement data back which is likely to be the sensor. I'm unsure if the rear are the same hall effect tooth sensors that are on the front, mine is the 2.8CRD front wheel drive and that's what it had, haven't checked the back. Take the wheel off and have a look, might save you a few quid in the short term.

Just replied on your PM but to confirm on these auto cars the revs in park or neutral won't go above 2,000 RPM as it's got a rev limiter on it.

Ohh m8, that's really bad news. I'm in a similar bad situation at the moment and this weekend will be make or break when I do some digging under the engine to see what I can find (Potential balance shaft problem, but need to eliminate it and determine if it's my fault or if it's the engine itself knackered). Sounds like that timing belt slip has done it's worst then, from what I've read since these are Diesel engines the valves will hit the pistons under timing problems. At best rockers will need replacing, at worst a lot more so potentially high cost. Good luck on the ebay front, yes I've been looking recently as may look at a replacement engine for mine and there are a lot out there for breaking in various states. I feel your pain though m8 and sorry to hear it.

Hi there, It's normal for codes to be generated but not enough to cause the engine management light on (thankfully, or we'd all be driving round with the thing on!), so unless you have problems, I'd not worry too much about the stored codes. Sure look them up for reference but don't worry too much. On the speedo and rev counter illumination, this is an oddity, which I also had. The lighting is actually done via el-wire (Electro-luminescent) and all those missing bulbs and holders are CORRECT and shouldn't be populated. Look towards the top at the back of the speed assembly and you'll see a plastic block sticking out, this is the power supply for the el-wire, check the connector there is plugged in, if not plug it in and see if it works. Here are the photos when I did mine, which sounds the same as yours, look for the connector you can see in the second photo.

Just to confirm, same on the 2.8CRD, push back. Do yourself a favour and give the caliper a once over before refitting, I had quite a hassle with one rear and ended up with new caliper as it just kept binding on.

Hi Stephen, I've changed the top suspension mounts (blog entry on my website if you want: http://www.thebmwz3.co.uk/2016/09/top-suspension-mount-replacement.html)but I had a failure and not sure if it would pull if they were the issue.

I too will keep fingers crossed for you. Unfortunately it doesn't sound good, I can confirm the engine will start and run with the aux and steering pump belts fully detached as with my current 'mare I've been doing that to try to locate the clunking noise. Taking the serpentine (acc) belt off and putting new one on isn't too bad, just take the airbox off to get access then get a spanner down to the tensioner, lift it upwards and it takes all the tension off and with a bit of a spin and a three-armed wriggle you can get the serpentine off and changed. The power steering one is more of a pain as you've got to release the bolts (6 in total, 3 to the rear of it and 3 on the front behind the belt guide) in the right order, and getting the bolts and washers through the small holes in the front spindle is a right pain (slowly turning the main engine with a spanner helps to line them up, so easier once the serpentine is off). I wish you good luck and more luck than I've had, as looks like my engine is dead.

Hi, Same 2.8CRD here. It's fairly easy to get at, easiest to take the wheel off whilst you've got it up on jack stands and you can then reach in and get your removal tool in to get it spun off. Makes a bit of mess as it's around part of the structure but get a big catch pan ready and you'll be fine.

Have dug out the workshop manual, and looking at it there is only one "fuel rail pressure sensor" but that's on the high pressure side: The diagnostic part of it goes on to explain: Which helps us here, so the lift pump should only run to prime the system and not whilst the engine is running. And now the bit you probably don't want to hear, the IPM controls how long the lift pump runs for according to this: So I'm not sure where that leaves us, if it's constantly running then there are two things to check, either the IPM is constantly sending the 'energise' to the relay (not good news) or the relay is sticking in the 'energise' position. You can test this by removing the relay, finding the correct terminals (You're after the supply two terminals) and using a multimeter set to DC voltage and turn ignition on, you'll get 12v (ish) for up to 10 seconds then it should stop. If you get that, then the IPM is doing it's job and it's the relay. Even though a relay looks ok and sounds ok it can still be corroded and cause arking, false failure, jamming open/closed, etc, so I think that's the place to be looking. I'm unsure what that pump running constantly would cause with the rest of the fuel system though so not sure what it would cause.

Rather than write another reply, I'll point you to my post on the .com forum folks http://www.chryslerforum.com/forum/chrysler-voyager-town-country-21/rattly-thumpy-noise-idle-27133/#post99288 Unfortunately finding metal bits in the sump seems to me to be the major sign that something is not well inside the engine so I'm thinking get it to a garage and get the head off and everything checked out.

Rather than write another reply, I'll point you to my post on the .com forum folks http://www.chryslerforum.com/forum/chrysler-voyager-town-country-21/rattly-thumpy-noise-idle-27133/#post99288 Unfortunately finding metal bits in the sump seems to me to be the major sign that something is not well inside the engine so I'm thinking get it to a garage and get the head off and everything checked out.

Well, I've just taken the power steering pump belt off and the serpentine belt and the noise is still there, so looks like it's in the block, flexplate or the autobox. (I had it running and listened using the spanner to the ear trick, and it wasn't coming from the cat) I'm at a loss now so think I'll have to get it down to a garage and let them get started on it to work their way through, I'm really starting to wonder if something has dropped into the engine.

Hi Gary, Also thank you for replying on my other thread, that's the importance of these forums they all help us out in times of need! Right, yes that's a good point, I forgot when I replaced the filter that it seemed to run longer to prime the system (Can't 100% confirm that as I didn't really pay attention to it!) so that does suggest a pressure sensor and that could well be what we're looking at here as if that was faulty then it could cause the issues. Looking at the exploded diagram of the pump there isn't any sensor/pressure control in there http://i.imgur.com/bM4Jk.pngWhich makes sense, the sensor would be in the engine bay at the end of the pipe run (i.e. where the pressure needs to be). Oh also take a look at Daz's video on a pressure relief valve failure on the pressure rail, this might be a simple test to try. I've not got the workshop manual installed at the min so will do that and try to find the fuel pressure sensors, as if we can track them down then focus where to look for the potential issue.

Thanks m8, yes that's the strange part the idling part of it, whenever the revs drop down to idle, say sat at lights, slowing right down you hear it again, it's very noisy (can hear me coming a mile off!) Going to have a run at it tomorrow as I've got the day free, will try the plumbing tube trick too (as well as the screwdriver to the ear) and see if I can pinpoint any further. So my plan of attack: Check for obvious loose brackets, fittings, etc. Also try to see if it's the CAT (possibly the honeycomb disintegrated?) Get the car up on jack stands and then star to listen, look and see what I can see all under and over it. Take serpentine belt off and again see if any change Failing that I'm stumped and might have to give up and take it to a dealership as we've got a Chrysler dealership not too far, but I'm not convinced they'd be up to the job to be honest!

Hi Gary, Yes you're correct (Mines 2005 2.8CRD with rear lift pump and filter in the pump housing), turn ignition key on and you'll hear the pump run for approx 7-10 seconds (Just checked mine, 7 seconds) and it cuts out. I'm not sure if this is controlled by pressure switch or just a simple timer, that would be interesting to determine as I wonder if you've got a leak, the fact you get engine cutting out makes me think more you've got a leak or a hole/damage somewhere that when pump is running it's pumping out and when under heavy load it draws air in and chokes the engine. I know you've checked the fuel lines, etc, but I'd go again along those lines, switch on and let the pump run and then follow the pipes and look for any seeping fuel, etc. Also, if you run the fuel pump for a while (30 seconds) does it's pitch change or differ at all? I'm wondering if as it builds pressure up and up that the pump would then start to struggle to pump due to the pressure increasing? Sorry no answers just more questions and things to look for I'm afraid.

Hi rodders27, Trying to compare to an issue just come up on mine, do you get anything when you're in park/neutral and the engine is at idling speeds, or is it purely when moving? I was just talking to an autobox specialist and he said that if you put the autobox under load in any way and the noise goes away that would point to torque converter or the flexplate having a crack/damaged. He did this test, sat with handbrake on, put the car in drive and foot on the brake. He then lightly increased the revs to see if the noise would appear/disappear. Does this make any difference on yours if you do the same? Noise there or appears or goes away? I agree though, a fluid change sounds a good plan too.

(Sorry for the cross-post those guys who are on the .com forum too, trying to get as many people eyes on it!) Hi folks, 2.8CRD auto 2005 121,000 miles. This one just jumped out at me, and doesn't sound good at all for my GV. It's a rattle/rumble that happens at idle, give it a little revs and it goes away, under normal driving you only notice it when the revs drop back to almost the idle position. Runs fine, smooth, no issues with gear shifts, etc. My first suspicion was the auto-box, or flexplate as it sounded like it came from the box casing, however a friendly local autobox specialist kindly had a listen/look for me and used a microphone listener and he doesn't think it's the autobox (The sound doesn't go away when in drive, when the flexplate, etc, would be put under hydraulic pressure which normally is when a flexplate/gearbox fault would change in sound). He listened all over the engine and couldn't pinpoint, he said it sounds almost like it's from the block itself and echoing, so he's suggesting I drop the belt first and see if that makes the sound go away or change at all. (So firstly, whats the procedure for taking the belt off on the 2.8CRD RHD, as it doesn't look particularly easy to access the tensioner. Best from underneath or the top and just use the right socket and long bar?) Failing that he's suspecting an injector possibly that's destroyed (partially or not) itself and rattling badly. Has anyone heard something similar and have any pointers on this one please? This one is making me worried! He's the recording of it, this is sat outside work so after a 30 minute drive, sound doesn't change on temperatures. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4HZIg8QhLkw

Unfortunately with an ABS light a code read is almost a must as there are so many systems that talk to the ABS. (Also the reader you need is the advanced ones that read Chrysler, any of the cheapo ODB II units won't cut it) However, having said that, there is another basic test you can do before you take it to a garage to take a look, I've recently found a problem with my wheel speed rotation sensor and testing those are easy: Front wheels (Easier to take them off, but not necessary) at the back there is a plastic splashguard cover, towards the front of the vehicle. Gently feel/pull on this and you'll see/find the wire going from the speed sensor to a connector. The connector has a red plastic clip to slide first, then push down and disconnect the sensor. You'll see two pins inside the connector that goes to the wheel. You need to get a multimeter onto those pins to test (croc clips work best) and set your meter to resistance on one of the higher (lower ohm value) settings. You should get an ohm reading somewhere in the 1200 ohm (From memory), but basically if you get a reading then chances are that one is OK. Repeat on the other 3 and compare the results. If you get a 0 ohm or incredibly high reading then the sensor may be shot. The other test is that when the wheel is rotating it generates a small AC voltage, so if you want to also test this, jack the wheel up (out of gear, etc, so make sure it's chocked well!) and set your meter to AC and 5 volts or less and start to spin the wheel, by hand it should give you a small voltage which shows the teeth/sensor is working. Other than that, diagnostics might be needed I'm afraid. (PS, an ABS light on is an MOT fail)

Hi, Can't help on the pulling to the left unfortunately, but wanted to advise the P0100 is unrelated. P0100 is the MAF (Mass air flow) sensor giving a bad reading or is not giving a reading at all. This could be because the MAF has been blanked off/bypassed or that it's gunked up and no longer working correctly. At worst this may cause you reduced performance, but nothing relating to the problem you're having with the abs/pull problem. ABS light coming on could be anything unfortunately, from sensor fault to ABS unit itself so needing further diagnostics sounds the best option, but as we all know that can generally only be done by the expensive code readers for these cars. However, having said that, pulling to the left, have you had the wheel off and had a look (brake binding?), or has a garage taken a look as the readouts you've given are from a garage doing alignment testing, what did they have to say about it?

Hi Steve, Yes, I've done the lot! The overhead are similar to the heated seats, same principle and same little circuit board to struggle with, but again not a mega pain. The climate control, that one is a whole different story, I had a go at this on my old GV. You have to take the whole module apart (There is a lot of old style electronics in there, and the delicate VFD so be careful when you open it. I think it was hex screws but it's a while back so not 100% sure). When you have it open you'll see the illumination bulbs. Now for the warning. I never managed to replace these successfully WITHOUT causing a display malfunction or the LEDs for blower/direction to indicate incorrectly (I had two or three of the amber LEDs on showing fan speed, randomly) so my conclusion was that the bulbs were sinking current which was key for that board to function. Replacing them out with LEDs it didn't like much so caused those anomalies. I gave up at that point, removed the LEDs and the display thankfully went back to fully working, so exactly the issue there I cannot be 100%, but just a word of caution, the climate control might not be one worth tackling!

Hi there, Welcome to the club, hopefully you'll love the cars as much as most of us, once you've had it a while I'm sure you will! There isn't a lot to change/set on it the climate control to be honest, I'm assuming you have the climate control like this one: In which case you use PASS and DRIVER up/down to set the temperature (Temperature will be shown in either oC or oF depending on if you have set yours for metric or imperial displays - this is set by your overhead console control). Hi or Lo sets the automatic fan speed, Lo restricts the max speed to somewhere around half way, Hi lets it use full range. Pwr - full climate control on/off overall control Fan and direction dials are self-explanatory and yellow led shows current position. On the right you have ice icon indicating manual on/off of the air con pump/condenser, Recirculate on/off and finally demist. All the settings have a related onscreen indicator. When you first set off, if conditions are very cold you'll see "Delay" followed by a number on screen, this is the system waiting until engine temperature is warm enough to start the fans, otherwise it'll be blowing freezing air at you (You can override by just changing the fan/direction and it'll ignore the delay and give you control). Hope that's the info you need, any other questions just drop a line back.

They look spot on Steve, glad they've done the job. I've ordered those little strip/model LEDs so going to take mine apart and test those out as an alternative, probably post a video online with it for anybody in the future interested.

Just to add to this, if this is happening whilst driving you might want to get the alternator checked, as if it's not supplying what it should for recharge then you'll quickly destroy the new battery.

Hi mrtibbs, this one comes up quite a few times, although I'm working off a 2004/2005 edition here so not sure if they changed up in 2006 (The cruise control buttons on steering wheel don't have illumination in 2004/2005 so did they ever work on yours?). Most of the illumination is done by bulbs DIRECTLY SOLDERED onto the switch boards (How forward thinking Chrysler!), so to replace you have to either replace the entire switch module (Potentially expensive and I'd say not the way to go), the other way is to open up the switch module, desolder the old incandescent bulb and put in LEDs instead. It's a little fiddly and finding the right LEDs to use is key as you need 12v and also they need to be small/slim enough to go on the board as there isn't a lot of space in there. These items from ebay look an interesting alternative: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/QUALITY-9v-12v-DC-3528-LED-SUPAFLEX-LIGHTING-STRIP-MODEL-RAILWAY-N-OO-HO-O-GAUGE-/151025926614?var=&hash=item2329d8c1d6:m:m9Xse9CJ-KFSApIIPatZcMA They're 12v and on a strip, so a strip of 2 might do the job. I've not ordered any yet but going to and see what they're like, and at £2.80 worth a go I reckon if you're up for a bit of soldering. Just take the centre console out (as though you're getting at the radio), then along the top of the piece you've removed (with the wooden panelling) at the top is the switch module. Click the back off it (a few well placed flat screwdrivers and gentle prising action) and you'll get the switch module (Careful. There are springs in there, so do it somewhere you can watch how it fits together so they don't go flying). Inside you'll see the bulbs in question. The circuit board then lifts out (pull it forward don't wiggle left to right as the pins that go to the connection at the back go through holes in the plastic and if you wiggle too much they'll snap which is an even more tricky solder repair job). Once out desolder and replace. Remember, LEDs are sensitive to polarity, so you'll need to test using a multimeter which rail is positive and which is negative and solder the LEDs in the right way round. Hope that helps, let me know if you want any more info as I've done quite a few of these now, though not yet done a video on it! (Video in my sig show how to get at radio if you need it).