andyb2000

Phew! Glad to hear it Steve, one to add to the list of things to try for similar problems :-) Ta for the feedback.

Hm, that's unusual as I don't think I've seen/heard of that one before. When you stuck key in ignition did you go all the way to full start of engine? All I can think of is that there has been no power to the ECU/BCM or aux systems for so long that they've lost their retained info (all presets on radio gone, etc). Normally as bignev says key in should do that but I do know that it sometimes takes a full start for a few minutes. That is if it will start the car? (If no start then it's immobilising too, which is bad news as the pairing between key and ignition/BCM has been lost and will need re-pairing).

Hi @@legonsuk ok so we reckon battery good, so now onto identifying IOD draw. When you had the meter instead of the fuse on IOD what current was it pulling? Remember to test like this: engine off, key off+out, driver door (all doors) shut, bonnet up. Wait 5 minutes (at least) then pop IOD fuse out, put meter in, wait again I'd say 5 minutes and take the reading. The reason for the delays? When the IOD is removed/re-added the car computer will wake up and go into it's more active state, you want to wait and see what it's like at idle/sleep state to get an idea what your idling current draw is. When it's in idle you should have the following characteristics: radio clock OFF, interior lights all OFF, any/all side/park lights OFF. One that seems to come up frequently is the amplifier is sometimes forced to be on all the time, generally with after-market radios or modifications to the audio system, so do you have an aftermarket radio or mod like that which could be forcing the amp to be constantly powered? Hope these help a bit more diagnostics, post back on what you find.

Ah good thinking @@bignev I'm gonna give the aux inputs a go, I was basing that on my last GV which did the above. On the engine, all good and back on the road. It was a cracked flexplate in the end, so separated the autobox from the engine (bellhousing bolts, flexplate bolts removed from the starter motor hole when removed), got enough space to get the flexplate out and replaced. Cost from dealer was around £80 for the new flexplate. I've been planning on doing a full write-up on steps and gotchas doing it when I get round to it! All up and running and happy again though, cheers for asking m8 :-)

I've not tried the rebuild kit so can't comment unfortunately. In my case it was one rear so went for the £154.99 from Eurocarparts (Though through discount to get it cheaper at some point) and solved it. I know what you mean though, we wound them right the way in and from eye inspection they were retracting, just not fully, just that slight bit caused it, and in my case couldn't touch the alloys after a short journey they were getting that hot (And obviously not healthy for the new pads, parts, etc that sort of temperature)

And here's the word of caution! There are several different versions (Infinity is just one option. In some cases infinity have the infinity label on the speaker grill, but I've also seen them without that label) and I've so far come across three different systems in total now in these, all in the same year/build (2004/2005). I've not played with the 2006 one yet, but assuming similar (They did change a few things from 04/05 to 06) then the radio will be pumping out a digital signal on the 4 outputs (front left, right, rear left, rear right). That digital signal is then either fed to the amp or to the doors and then converted to analogue signal (sort of!) for the speakers to reproduce. This is the bit I need to investigate further, what does the digital to analogue conversion. My assumption is this is the amplifier on my model. So in a nutshell, use what you have like the others say, if you already have aux inputs, use them (Though if it's on the DVD player you might find audio will only come out the rear speakers or infra-red headphones and not the front if it's the full split system installed). Otherwise, like me, you've got a bit of work involved in finding out what you have and how to tap into it without very expensive modules to tap into the Chrysler can-bus system. I'm planning on taking my rear interior quarter apart and finding the amp and doing a *very* detailed dig of what I can discover on my current model later in the year as I want to upgrade my head unit to an android all-singing/dancing unit and will need to do the legwork to make it work!

As QinteQ and bignev says, this is such a common one. IOD is 'always' (I say that carefully!) the biggest idle draw. Why is that? Because it powers all the idle equipment in the vehicle waiting for a wake-up (From keyfob remote. Radio/accessories, etc) so when you found that the higher draw, what current was it pulling at idle? The current will answer your question. Many amps and you have a problem, otherwise I'm with QinteQ, battery would be my first port of call knowing how much trouble we all have with keeping out batteries topped up and happy (Even after buttonmod a top up from a charger now and again never hurts)

Hi there, I had this, and despite the same as you, the calipers looked fine and when I had it all apart seemed to be releasing properly, in the end I swapped the caliper out and it solved the problem. They seem to stick very slightly on a lip that holds them on enough to generate the heat but no noticeable binding that you'd find from a fully jammed caliper. I'd say go for the replacement caliper as it sounds like you've checked and changed everything else apart from that. Have you narrowed it down to 1 wheel in particular? I'd be doing that first.

Hi there, hopefully we can get you sorted here, but first we need more info. Is it automatic or manual? And does it happen in all gears or only at certain speeds, certain gears? How many total miles on the clock? And finally, have you had any fluid changes, services or anything recently that might point to when this started happening?

This is a confusing topic to be honest as different versions within the same year can be different! On mine (A 2004/2005 2.8CRD) there is just the one which is the one at the side of the fuel tank like yours (See my youtube video to confirm if you want). My version does not have the primer or filter in the engine bay. Hope that helps!

Unfortunately this isn't easily done, using a standard digital multimeter isn't normally accurate enough, nor can you test the regulator pack, etc, effectively. The basic check is with ignition off, multimeter on battery and see what voltage you get (12.5v ish) then startup and wait a minute, then check again (14v ish), it shouldn't spike or jump above 15v and definitely shouldn't dip low. Put on headlights and see if voltage dips low, if it drops down below 13v I'd say cause for concern, or if you find the meter readings jumping a lot (Again depends on the meter, cheaper/basic ones aren't very good at giving you rapid changes in voltage). BTW, no matter what info you find, DO NOT disconnect battery when engine is running, you've got the potential of frying ECU and others doing that!

Yep, correct. It doesn't do a complete flush as fluid is still in the box itself, etc, but this is the generally accepted way of doing it and you renew a large percentage of the fluid.

This sounds like a potentially faulty alternator/regulator not quite smoothing the voltage out, you'll probably start to find the battery looses charge faster which is normally associated with memory functions, dash needle sweep, etc. Get the alternator checked sooner rather than later, if it's sending out spikes or ripples through the electrical system the battery will help smooth it out but not completely (It will also shorten the life of the battery), this could lead to ECU or damage to other components if left too long.

Andrips, I'd not even give it a second thought, drop the pan and get the gulf stuff out and get genuine mopar ATF in there with a new filter and you might be lucky that it sorts it, many posts around have similar issues and it's purely the fluid that's been put in it. (Do a quick search on ebay and get the fluid, filter and seal kit)

Thanks Semmysonic, yes that was what I'd been told also, but they moved it around between slight revisions (As we know even the same year doesn't mean the same configuration!) so I think it will be a hunting expedition to find it, then going to tone and trace cabling to work out what and where it all goes. Cheers

Hi Scanialord, As the others mention, you're onto a loser trying to get a kit to fit and work without paying a fortune (several hundred alone) for the converter/electronics box that will talk to the Chrysler system. I've made various blog posts on my website over the years as I tried to get a Parrot bluetooth set to work properly, but gave up in the end as the tests I did came back with conclusion that it's a digital system rather than analogue which makes most hands-free kits not able to directly interact. In the end I went with a separate speaker and microphone on mine, speaker sits to the right of the radio centre console just up towards the steering column and gives decent sound, although yes I admit it's a defeat choosing that option! (I'm aiming later this year if the car is still with me to locate the amp and work out how it's working and how to tap into it to put in aftermarket stereo and handsfree units as I want to put in a fancy android-based head unit)

Can't 100% check right now, but it's not high, it's limited I think to around 2,000 so when you're not in drive it'll not let you rev it higher. Various posts around confirm this on all the 2.8CRD's

Hi newtothis/Neilgibson, Just about to dive into mine as looks like the flexplate is failing (Or damaged casing got into the flexplate to torque converter housing), any advice/steps on getting the box out and back in as it's a new one on us to have a go at so looking for any tips or steps on doing the job! Thanks in advance.

I'd agree with Neil, ignore the low fuel pressure as when battery dies the ECU has to 'start from scratch' or a reboot so has to re-set what it knows. Based on battery going flat, etc, I think I'd be looking electrical, search the forum and you'll find people with similar issues that seem to indicate a potential ground issue between the gearbox and the chassis, so as usual my first port of call would be each of the connectors, disconnect and reconnect (checking for corrosion on the terminals). Everything needs a good electrical path, and the 'sense' for the gear positions to dash are part of this circuit. (PS: Solenoid pack is also a good contender but do everything else first before dropping the cash for it)

Ah yes, sorry crossed wires there. I thought you had oil halfway up the whole dipstick and was worrying you had one heck of a lot of oil in there! Ok, don't think you need to drain/check oil for water then. gordy sounds more spot on then that might be worth checking. I can't compare with mine at the moment I'm afraid so can't tell if it's the same. Actually, on the lines of what Gordy mentioned, what about opening the top oil fillter and then take the dipstick out, see if it still happens, in theory that should allow ventilation (Proving if it is vent blockage). I'm thinking out-loud here but don't see why that won't prove it.

Thanks both of you, Yep QinteQ, we've got a little boroscope cam that we've used to have a look in, difficult to tell though but looking through the cracked inspection hatch one or two of the nuts look chewed which is a telltale sign something is wrong at t'mill. So we're pinning our efforts on that, so autobox drop and take a look. I'll be taking photos as not something I thought I'd ever be tackling! Thanks bignev, I'd tried places like that and yes the problem is the 2.8CRD seemed to be a UK/Europe only model so the states don't think they exist at all which is the bit slowing it down. Had a callback this morning though, and this is unbelievable, local Chrysler (Alexanders in Thornaby) can get both the flexplate and the flexplate inspection cover for me for under £100 (We're having to wait as one is in the country the other is shipping in from Italy). I'd never have thought of calling a dealership to try but turns out that's worked and for a decent price in this case!

Hi folks, Anyone know of where to get spares here in the UK? My usual places (ebay, eurocarparts, ultimatespares, vanmatic, sussexautos) all came up blank for this. I'm after the flexplate for a 2005 2.8CRD auto, they don't seem that common a part, I've also tried to find the genuine mopar part number but can't locate that either, so I'm throwing it open to you kind chaps to see if anyone knows who/where i might get one from, preferably new. (If you've been following my thread on this, I'm back to this as the cause of my engine knocking sound, so going to drop the transmission, autobox and torque converter, get at the flexplate and look for it being cracked - which is my suspicion) Cheers

Hm, this sounds a little odd, so you're saying the oil level is majorly high (half way up the dipstick or half way up the 'correct' level position on the dipstick) If it's really high, and you've drained some and it's gone back up/still high then it sounds like you might be getting coolant into your oil (It has to be getting topped up by some other fluid) and if that's the case it could be a few things (head gasket, oil cooler, etc). From when I took the bottom of my engine apart, the dipstick tube end sits about 3/4 way up the oil pan, so I'd not imagine it to be getting a lot of oil sloshing at it (It is right beside the balance shaft assembly) which makes me think there is way too much oil in there.

Hi Ron, Also please specify what year, model, variation, etc, and you'll get more replies with more specific information. I've found several different parking systems on the MK-IV editions, but they all work on a similar principle, each sensor is two-wires that link back to a control box, normally in the rear passenger side in the boot (Difficult to get at, on mine it's between the join between rear section and speaker for rear passengers), but all wires will go back to there generally. You can test an ultrasonic sensor in a very rudimentary way by using a multimeter like soupstone says, you need to be on the ohm reading and it'll measure something like several thousand ohms, compare each of them and you should hopefully see one with a vastly different resistance (or infinite). Good luck and hopefully you can locate the wiring harness they lead back to with a connector for easy probing/testing.

Hi Mike, I've changed the radiator on mine so done a bit with the cooling system (BTW you're going to change the thermostat? How on earth did you manage that previously as it's in such an awkward place on the 2.5/2.8CRD's I've failed on two different ones and went for adding the additional thermostat inline!). When I replaced the radiator, etc, there wasn't much of a bleed needed with it, fill the expansion bottle up, let it leak through and I then hand 'pumped' the top hose (running to the right of the main block at the top), this got quite a bit circulated. I then started up, switched heaters to full and let the car idle for a while to get warmed up (with cap off water expansion bottle) as it slowly dropped I added more keeping it at the max mark. It didn't take long and didn't take much more than I'd already put in. So not a difficult bleed solution, which makes me think something else isn't right here if it managed to blow the pipe off. BTW I assume the metal hose retention clip was still on it, not just the hose pushed on into place?