andyb2000

Replying to myself as I'm good at that, helps the grey matter do a bit of brainstorming! I've connected an LED to the solenoid supply connector, so when the fuel solenoid was energised by the ECU it was lit up. The solenoid energises in second key position (run position) and stays on until key is turned off. I went for a test run and the LED didn't go off at all, so that leads me to conclude the ECU is NOT shutting the solenoid off whilst running, so it's not 'killing' the engine, which goes back to fuel starvation. I found another interesting thing, I had to push the car harder to get it to stall this time, really had to floor it to make it die, so not sure if this indicates it's getting better? Anyway, when it did die, I let it coast to the side of the road and shifted the auto shifter to N. I then turned the key straight back to starter motor position (It was in run position obviously) and starter motor turned, turned turned and it just wouldn't fire, even with wiggling accelerator. Tried a few times and it just wouldn't fire. I turned key off, and back on (Heard lift pump run) and it immediately fired. That makes me go back to, fuel starvation, when the engine is needing a lot of fuel, it's almost sucking it's fuel line dry and dying due to lack of fuel. Reasonable assumption? This makes me less think of pressure sensors, electrical sensors, and back to mechanics, fuel starvation to the HP fuel pump somehow.

Thanks again for the feedback, so far I've not found anyone who has posted that they got to the bottom of this fault, so that means one of two things, either they find it and disappear or the second option, their GV is in a scrapyard somewhere. Anyway, I've replaced the crankshaft position sensor (Rear of engine block passenger side, more awkward to get at than anything due to subframe), but no luck, out on a test drive and exactly the same. Annoyingly, due to the rev limiter I can't rev it on the driveway up to the RPM that it cuts out at, is yours auto too Steven and if you're in park can you rev it higher than 2.5k? I'm curious as it'd love to know if it'll cut out without load (i.e. just on the driveway) but can't due to the rev limiter. I've also re-checked key-dance codes: These are interesting codes, which have got me looking at the Fuel Pressure Solenoid.When you say it eliminates the solenoid, why do you think that please? I'm going to wire a test LED onto the solenoid and determine if it's the ECU shutting the solenoid off or not as that may be a key pointer to why it's being shutdown. I also drove it a while today, which I can providing I keep revs below 2.6k (ish) so driving around without being heavy footed and the car will happily run at 40Mph without cutting out, so this may also match what you found trying it out. As soon as you boot it and revs go high for a second or so then it'll immediately stall out. After a stall it takes a few cranks before it'll fire and start up again, perhaps indicating starvation of fuel and having to re-prime the system? (Guessing here!) Any other suggestions before I start randomly replacing sensors!The HP pump replacement will be an interesting one, it's not a fun job as you have to use the timing pins to lock it all, etc, so one I'm leaving till late on. Good luck and I'll keep posting back regardless, just on what I try next and what I can find. Really appreciate you taking the time too, we'll get it figured between us!

The click is normal, as bignev says it's the release for the auto gear shifter. To prove it, try and move the shifter without foot on brake, it won't move. If you put a little pressure on the shifter lever then put your foot on the brake you can 'feel' the release pin as it releases. For the ABS light, this is a self-resetting system (unlike engine management warning) so if it comes on and goes out then it's finding an intermittent fault on the system. ABS has quite a few components but basics first, is there enough fluid in the reservoir? Then I'd be suspecting wheel speed sensor/ring corrosion causing a 'bad' read of the wheel speed, that's most likely if it comes on/goes out whilst driving. If you don't have an SRS scanner to pull the codes (key dance is no good here) then take front wheels off one by one, check the wheel speed sensor (it's the black connector towards the top of the wheel arch that then loops down and has one bolt holding it against the hub where the teeth are). Then with a wire brush give the toothed speed ring a clean up. It uses magnetic inductance to generate a tiny A/C electrical voltage when it spins so it's very easily upset by corrosion and rust. Fingers crossed that might do it. I'd suspect it's not the sensors gone bad as you'd get the ABS light on constantly due to self-checks failing, etc. Good luck!

Hi Steve, Interesting, thanks for the feedback, I'm also thinking it's not injectors as i'd expect more return flow from one or more, and in theory I'd hear 'missing' where one or more were not firing correctly (due to over or under fuelling), which isn't the case, this is a complete cut out. Interesting the immobiliser, does yours have the red indicator on top of the steering column? If so, does that light during the problem, mine doesn't which is why I'm also eliminating the immobiliser in my case (If the car gets immobilised I'd expect cut out and all dash lights to go out, mine remains lit with what you'd expect if you stalled the car, oil pressure light, etc). The fact that you need to lock then unlock the car though is a decent thinking that it's related to the BCM/Immobiliser on yours, or the chip in the key perhaps. Have you a spare set of keys, if so I'd give those a go to see if any difference? So today I've checked the fuel filter/lift pump. To clear up the confusion, mine is a 2.8CRD 2004/2005 which has an electric lift pump at the rear beside the tank, the filter is inside the plastic pump housing. I've attached photos to be clear! (There are so many variations) Checked the plastic housing, O-ring, filter and what I could see of the fuel lines and all look good to me, no cracks in the filter housing, filter itself in decent condition, etc. So now onto my next thought, crank position sensor. I've ordered a replacement VM Motori replacement crank sensor so will swap that and see what I find next! Good luck Steven, hope you get yours tracked down. This is the filter and electric lift pump housing, which is on the driver side (RHD) of the fuel tank just in front of the rear axle: Filter and plastic base housing has been unscrewed/removed: Looking straight up into the pump housing: Fuel lines running towards front of vehicle. Is it just me or do these look new-ish condition? I think they do and the tank looks relatively new too, so could these have been replaced before I purchased a couple of years ago perhaps? So onto the crank sensor. If it's not crank sensor then perhaps fuel solenoid or high pressure pump itself.

Just the one, it's location changes depending on model and year, so a physical check is a good idea. Mine is under, embedded in the fuel tank with the pump assembly, plastic outer casing. Take care when dealing with the plastic casing, it's prone to cracking and damaging easily.

Hi folks, Sorry for a few days gap (Wife was in surgery, so hope recovering now) so back onto the car problem! Yesterday it was a warmer day (4oC) so I started it up in the drive, it started up (struggled as expected, little wiggle on accelerator and it started up) and I left it idling, which it couldn't manage the other day. It sat idling for 15 minutes without stalling out, I could see the revs still dipping and recovering occasionally. I then went to take it for a drive this morning and again as soon as it went over around 2.5k RPM it cut out again, so this to me confirms/eliminates a few things. Firstly, not fuel sludging/freezing/slush as it was warmer this morning. I've added the diesel injector additive, so in theory it's not poor quality diesel. What I noticed, is when it cut out, I tried to restart immediately from the ACC/RUN position. Starter motor turned over and was trying, but no matter what it wouldn't fire. As soon as I turn key totally off, then back on to start it almost started straight away. The key bit here? That made the low pressure lift pump come on (I heard it) and re-prime the system. So that points to either air or filter problems feeding the system. That's the job for today! (After replacing the top suspension mounts on my wifes car!)

Thanks mikebh8, some good info there. I've got the autel maxidiag eu702 which whilst it gets the ABS, SRS, etc, it won't pull the standard codes! (Not sure if I'm missing an update or something) So no, only keydance codes I've retrieved. I've looked at the Delphi and thought about getting it, though trying to find the right one and supplier seems problematic, a link or direct would be good if you know of one (pm me if preferred). My thinking on injectors was more than one acting up causing a loss of pressure on the rail, hence I want to do the injector return test again and see if I get one or more returning a lot of fuel so will do that over next couple of days. Oddly, I can still get it to startup without easystart, etc, it just wont keep going/under power.

Thanks all @@mikebh8 interesting about fuel, this runs on 'regular' supermarket diesel (I know people slate it) and funny enough I just filled up full from Tesco (I normally use Asda) the morning before it acted terrible so there might be something to that. I'm tempted to throw an additive in there too to up the ron and see what it gives me. PS keep throwing ideas in, if I can find something before I'm desperate to get it into a garage and part with my wallet the better! @@matt thanks, thats good info as I'm pointing to the high pressure side, so pump and injectors really since I've eliminated relief valve. I'll do the individual injector leak/return tests when I get a min and see what that yields. Recently it's got heavy smog that you can see pluming into the air, and yes it's had reluctant start for a while now.

Hi Mike, cheers for the reply, think that link was mixed up as thats for petrol compression testing but almost same lines to test the high pressure side, though to be honest don't really fancy tackling that side myself so think it'd be over to a diesel specialist. It's doing it every time now, but temperatures are still cold, I'm willing to wager if it was a warm day it would be OK, fuel system under cold conditions vs fuel under warm conditions maybe? I do have the top foam on just not the plastic cover, it doesn't appear to be related to vibration as I can get it to do it sat in the driveway today, just start it up (eventually) let it idle for a few minutes and then it'll start to seek on the revs (dipping) and then dip too far and cut out. So from all the connectors and wiring I'm suspecting something other than wiring. Am keeping digging everywhere I can, not sure if I'll try and play it out using the Mrs. car for a bit and get by without it until can have a proper think rather than rushing it to a garage. Thanks again!

(Apologies for cross-post from the .com forum, wanted several sets of eyes on it!) Well this one has finally hit me, first the basics. 2005 2.8CRD RHD at 130k miles. It started to get worse at starting, bit of a feather on the accelerator and it usually fires, after the first long cold start it was better. Had replaced glow plugs a while back and confirmed they're working. Battery in good nick too, have tested and topped it regularly. So eliminates the low turnover, glow plug, cold starting usual potentials. At cold start it gives a cloud of greyish smoke. Have also checked, no oil in water or vice versa, nothing suggesting any issues with head, block, etc (Been there in past GV so know what to look for!). Yesterday it really struggled to start (-1oC outside all day pretty much) as it was starting then immediately dying out. Bit more throttle and eventually it would start, then runs great, no issues. Until this morning, again cold (-4oC and was cold all night long, so car stood on driveway), really struggled to start and when it started it sounded 'lumpy' almost as though not firing on all cylinders. Cloud of greyish smoke at start too. Drove away and after a few minutes the firing seemed to sort itself out and it sounded happy again. Until about 5 minutes down the road, went to accelerate away from a roundabout (I'm not a heavy foot so I wasn't booting it) and it really spluttered, again like not on all cylinders (But don't think that was it) and then cut out. Rolled to side of road, tried to start and it turned over a few times until with feathering of throttle it started up. Without load (Sat in park) I can hit the rev limiter at 2.5k and it sounded fine, no stutters or burbles or anything. As soon as under load and you take it just above 2.5k it stutters struggles then cuts out, no matter what you do you can't 'regain' it after it does that. So, sat on the driveway, tickling it to start it'll run, sound fine, I can rev it under no load and it's fine. Leave it to idle for a few minutes and you start to hear it 'seek' so revs drop a little then recover, does that a few times then drops too much and it stalls out. So things I've done/checked: * About 1yr ago changed the in-tank fuel filter. Mine is the 2.8CRD with the lift pump in the tank at the rear, changed the screw on filter on it, easy enough and filter wasn't too bad. So my suspicion is it's not that. (This is the Grand Voyager without front filter+primer) * Low pressure lift pump runs at ignition turn on and primes the system, at least it sounds right * glow plugs are on/working and pulling current, so not those * P1130 showing many times on key dance - so it's fuel pressure related (makes sense) * Pressure relief valve on fuel rail - Tested by disconnecting return pipe, seeing what run-off I get, and it's nothing, zero. So not that. * Checked connector for fuel pressure sensor (on the common-rail towards the front), connector was ok, voltage ok So questions on what it could be: * Crank position sensor * Fuel heater? (Didn't know anything about this, will check it!) * Fuel pressure solenoid * High pressure fuel pump * Injectors (Though could all have failed/faulty?) - Going to do leak test again to verify. Anyone any suggestions, I think I'm going to have to get it to a CRD specialist to test the high pressure side out to find out whats going on here. But anything to help please guys would be appreciated.

Hi, Other than the stuck button (I've found one that has hardly any 'click' action, but it still works), if your TRAC OFF shows when you start and run, it's the same as mine at the moment. Mine is due to a faulty wheel speed sensor. If you're lucky enough to have a full scanner, do a check on the ABS system and it'll tell you if a speed sensor is at fault, otherwise you'll need to test them yourself. If ABS light isn't showing then it'll probably just be the wheel speed sensor and nothing more complicated with the ABS system itself. (FYI: I've had TRAC OFF illuminated as haven't got round to replacing the sensor. I can confirm if the sensor is disconnected totally you get TRAC OFF and BRAKE (the handbrake) light illuminated. ABS light seems to be triggered from another set of circumstances as mine isn't lit up (and yes the bulb works! ABS light should be on during first key position indicator test before starting)).

Hi mike, thanks for that, can you list which SOT cable you used for it? I've found around 3 different SOT cables specified and they all don't work on my particular combination, hence my continued battles with it to make it work (I've actually bypassed the amp and rewired now as a solution). The solution you put above DID work with my last GV (same thing, providing amp/radio is on, audio output worked from Parrot) which is what confuses me, they all appear the same year, etc but subtle model differences seem to have different wiring combinations for the audio systems. My current exact model is 2005, CRD LTD XS AUTO 2.8L RG-body.

OK, if new glow plugs then more likely this fault shown on the video. Daz is showing that you get fuel out of the pressure relief valve. You should get NO fuel out of there under normal conditions. So, take plastic hose off the pressure relief valve. Plug or block the pipe now dangling (the return fuel line). Put a small plastic pipe onto the pressure relief valve output and put to a small container (Make sure it's secure for when you start). Then start and run car a couple of minutes. See if any fuel. If there is, then you need to replace it. Hope that helps.

Hi Karmannski, That's tricky as we've not got a lot to go on! But, by the sounds of it now it's cutting out the suspicion is the pressure relief valve failure that's quite a common one doing the rounds at the moment! Take a look at by our old pal Daz and see if you can do the same test. Replacing the valve is tricky as there are a few part numbers circulating so if you go to replace check closely the part you're replacing is an exact match (Some aren't exact thread size as a few people I've spoken to recently found out and kindly passed the info onto me). Also, struggling to start on a morning could also be glow plugs, so time to test and perhaps replace: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2vtGGp4Jqp8&t=8s

I think you're on the right track with temperature, ATF becomes thinner when warm (from my reading up) and can cause shift problems. If I remember correctly that is one of the 3 radiators on the front of the car, an ATF cooler (at the back is the main radiator, then you have an oil cooler and ATF coller) so I'm wondering if for some reason that's not working efficiently. One one of your longer drives when the problem happens, pull over and CAREFULLY touch the atf cooler radiator, check top and bottom and see if one part of it is hotter or cooler, am wondering if it's sludged up somehow and isn't circulating/cooling as efficiently as it should be. Sorry, don't have precise answers on your questions though as can't get on my docs from where I am at the minute.

That's pretty much what I'm doing, however (I've not been able to watch the full video/audio of it) but I'm missing how they've got around the fact that the wiring loom from the front to the rear amp only has left and right audio (i.e. only 4 wires), no rear so this would assume you lose front to rear fader ability and it just joins these together. Also assuming it joins together the top and bottom speakers (Question is, do they join them in series or parallel as there is much discussion on audio forums on how best to join speakers together!) Probably me being picky but I wanted the whole lot! So I've been fitting a new wiring loom in from the head unit to the rear! The steering wheel controls for volume, etc, won't work with this as this is just a bypass wiring kit, to talk to the steering controls you need canbus integration which is the next bit I'll be looking into as some companies do sell a canbus steering controller but it's expensive (About the same as that wiring kit).

First thing with the gearbox not shifting, I'll bet one of the two or three connectors towards the front right of the engine bay weren't plugged back in, this is the control electronics for the autobox. Easily done, I did it when I replaced the flexplate on mine and it causes that problem, though that shouldn't have caused all the other issues (Other than revving slightly higher). That also caused my engine management light to come on too. Oil light is the worrying one, that shows no oil pressure in the system so either oil pump or the circulation is damaged. Does it have a balance shaft assembly fitted on the base of the engine, when you drop the oil sump you see the shaft assembly, as if that's not been fitted then oil pressure circulation is stopped and the engine won't get it's correct lubrication (Again I know this by not fitting it back in during testing, but this was only for 1-2 minutes test, not driving conditions). It does sound bad though as tractor sounding, shaking, etc (Was that at idle or trying to move?) sounds like the engine has suffered from lack of lubrication and might have thrown a big end or various other bits. I would recommend against moving it or starting it again until it can be looked over, mainly I'm thinking drop the pan/drain oil and take a look at the underneath of the engine, see if anything is in the pan/damaged. And mikebh8 is right, be prepared with an independent garage and know your rights, the garage that did the work for you has made an error somewhere.

Hi m8, no problem, I just found what might be a halfway-house option to feed audio in on 4 wires from a headphone socket or similar low-level input regardless of the version/model you have. Just doing wiring diagrams so will put that around soon. Not sure if I get into trouble for putting my website, blog, etc, so mods if not pls remove and let me know! Youtube is https://www.youtube.com/user/andybrown21and website is http://www.thebmwz3.co.uk/ and choose the car category on the right for the various bits I've written about. Cheers, Andy

No worries, hopefully have it all written up soon, including wiring harness colours and wiring as I think there might be a half-way option instead of replacing the whole stock head unit for those that want the 'easier' option. That way I've discovered would be to feed a new audio signal to 4 wires (stock head unit would need to be on) but in theory you could use an external bluetooth receiver or gadget with headphones out to feed audio. Stay tuned!! Oh and that economy seems pretty low (Search the forums, it's a common one). Mine is a 2005 2.8CRD too and I get 30.5 according to trip computer (Not that accurate, but it's accurate enough to draw comparisons), and I do a 20 minute each way drive to work in heavy traffic and a bit of town driving, start-stop at lights, etc, so not 'hypermiling' it! But that's a different thread totally!

Hi there, See the other thread going on about aftermarket radios as I've put a load of information on there and I'm currently in the process of adding an Android aftermarket to mine, so afterwards I'll have the full HOWTO (Including modifying the front facia to make a double-din fit!) Reading that ebay advert, I'd be dubious as I don't really think they know what they're talking about when it comes to Chrysler Grand Voyager compatibility as the whole advert is generic and includes the line: Radio Removal keys to allow you to remove your factory radio with easeWhich the GV's don't need removal keys, the radio is screwed in with 4 screws that are hidden by the large facia/bezel (You can see the screws in that photo you posted), so speak to them to be sure! Generally, even though yours is a 'standard' radio it'll still be probably talking to a factory amp, 8 speakers around the car, etc, as they're not quite as simple as first thought. Steering controls are all CANBUS so that's another headache that is tricky to make work on an aftermarket.

Hi m8, It was me! And I'm actually right in the middle of doing exactly that. I've got a double-din Android head unit to install and so I'm mapping out all the wiring, amp system, how it works, etc. Good and bad news, the bad news is that if you want to replace the factory RB3 unit you're in for a lot of work as you'll have to replace the AMP too. The AMP (rear right hand side behind the speaker) powers on and controls its balance and fader using CANBUS, so tapping into that is a no-go (There are commercial boxes but at a few hundred quid I'd not be convinced without them letting me return it! And I'd rather not pay that kind of money). The good news is if you just want to 'push' audio in (Like the Parrot bluetooth systems, etc) then you can from the head unit outputs, as I've discovered all the ISO wiring harnesses are generally WRONG for my specific model, but by testing and careful trial and error I've found the left and right +/- speaker out from the factory head unit, so you'd be able to 'patch' into these to push audio (Factory head unit would have to be on and that would still control volume, fader, balance, etc). So my plan to do this: Remove factory AMP completely. Add additional wiring from the rear (where the amp was, and where it feeds all 8 speakers) to the front dash so I can wire the speakers direct into my new head unit My speakers are infinity (They don't say that on the front, but when I removed the speaker it shows infinity on it) Their ohms resistance is only 2, so they'll need a decent head unit to drive them. My head unit I bought is a 4x45watt unit which *should* be enough, but I'm going to have to pair the speakers together (two front left, two front right, two rear left, two rear right) so I'm going to put those in series to make a 4ohm load, which will reduce the output power but should allow for better control and without blowing the head unit. If volume is still too low then I'll have to bite the bullet and buy a replacement amp to install too. Hope that gives you a bit of info, as I progress I'll start to write it onto my website and youtube videos to follow!

Hi both, Thank you! Aha, Sinch motor that sounds familiar. I'd guessed they were going to be a little pricey so yep thought I'll have a bash myself, you're right Nev, I'll not be stopped by a thing like that! Ta for the info Mike, will give that a look and rummage around in there, that's what I was thinking that I might be able to spot the damage, bent parts or whatever and use a little gentle persuasion to get it sorted! Will update on how I get on.

Bear with me here, difficult to describe! 2005 2.8CRD grand voyager, rear sliding doors. The pulling-in mechanism seems to be struggling on my drivers side rear door. This is the rear automatic sliding door. It happened when a friend of my wifes decided to try and wrench the door open whilst it was doing its whirr-clunk close sequence and I suspect it's damaged the motor, so now if I signal it to close it pulls shut, then as it tries to whirr-clunk (to make the door flush with body) it fails, tries again a couple of times then gives up leaving the door slightly proud of the bodywork, so you then have to manually open and slam shut the door. Any pointers on where to start looking? I believe this mechanism is at the rear of the door, but I'm not sure as wouldn't it need to be at the front and rear, and will it be something repairable, or needing to swap out the motor assembly that does this part of the sequence. Sorry to be vague and wooly, if you know the right name for this please enlighten me!

Hi, Just to put a 'downer' on the solar chargers, if you do a few calculations using Ohms law. At 12v and 1.5watts the output of that panel gives you 0.125amps which is 125milliamps. (Assuming 12v output from the panel, I'd expect it to be a little higher but even at 14v it's still 0.14amps) So, residual draw from the ECU and BCM would have to be less than 125milliamps for this solar charger to do anything other than just supply the ECU/BCM, therefore I'd recommend against the solar chargers and go for topping up with a proper battery charger (To be honest, the cheapest of the cheap are just as good. I *hate* that modern chargers are now 'smart' and will decide if they're going to top up your battery or not depending on it's voltage and some simple calculations on current/draw, but that's a separate rant!). So just get a cheapo mains battery charger from a supermarket or similar and plug it in now and again. That said, I do recommend the buttonmod resistor for the battery, it's not a difficult mod and there are lots of howto's floating around for it so have a read up too :-)

Hi, Agree with mikebh8 do that as residual current in the ECU and systems can cause some odd behaviour on the BCM. Also, as well as unlocking using the fob, put the key in the ignition and start the car. In some cases this is needed to re-pair the key/fob/ecu and will generally stop the alarm from sounding if it's the factory-fit. We're assuming factory fit here, if not or you suspect after market then start by trying to track down the sounder inside the engine bay and find where it is to get an idea on what you're dealing with.