andyb2000

Hi @@blackvelvet I too wondered about the glowplugs shearing off, but it all depends on how much you push it when trying to remove them. From what I learnt, most of them are at garages, reason for shearing them? Time. They don't have the time to go slowly, wait, have a cuppa inbetween, etc. The more time you give yourself to do the job, the better job you'll do and less likely to damage. I really didn't find them to have a lot of force for removal, of course each one can be different. Good luck with it.

Great, glad to hear it @@Expoman That adds up to my thinking that this has a large list of problems that cause the same/similar symptoms hence being so tricky to pin down. I'm still getting bad starts so think there is more to be done so I'll get on with that in warmer weather. Did a lot of driving today, snow and -2 temperatures and no problems though. The non-return-valve idea was talked about, QinteQ mentioned it to me a few weeks back when we were having a catch up in his lads garage and sounds a sensible idea if you think that's the issue, though it's more of a sticking-plaster solution than finding the root cause. Also, anyone in the UK know where to source the fuel filter (rear edition beside tank) assembly so I can order one as thinking it's worth doing at some point.

Oddly these engines aren't "Normal" when it comes to head gasket/block cracks/damage. My previous GV about 5yrs ago had an issue, not loosing coolant, slight creaming in the oil filler but nothing bad and no real impact on performance. Turned out I had a huge crack in the block beside the crankshaft! To be honest the car is probably still able to run now, how I'll never know! So I'm not sure how you'd even know by any of the usual simple signs, but if you're not loosing coolant and still getting smoke it mustn't be using up the water.

OK, yours sounds slightly different, the fact that it was working makes me think the fuel filter housing is at fault here and damaged causing the fuse to blow (short) and your starting/cut-out problems. Hopefully it's not the same problem as the wiring loom damage is in a difficult place on mine to locate. Get your electrician to check from the connector underneath into the fuel filter assembly, see if its shorting into the fuel filter assembly or on the wiring run back to the battery. Hopefully it'll be the filter assembly in which case it needs replacing. I'd not be 100% that its the fuel heater causing your cut-out/non-running, as if the heater has fused/got damaged in the filter assembly it normally means the casing is cracked/damaged and will be leaking air, causing air in the fuel lines. Good luck and remember to report back!

Just wanted to post another follow-up, I'm still free of engine cutting out, but it still doesn't feel like it's running smoothly. So my summary of what's gone on: Filter change, ensuring housing is tight and seal correct - essentialRunning injector/diesel cleaner through the tank a few times - seems to improve thingsFuel heater - unsure if this makes any difference at all!Replacing the MAP/TC sensor - this seems to have solved the issue for meSo for now, a cold start seems OK (Bit of a chug but starts generally first time with a cloud of smoke (unburnt diesel)) A warm start seems troublesome, it'll turn over and over without seeming to 'catch' or fire, but waggling the accelerator whilst turning it over and sometimes clicking the ignition on and off a couple of times will make it start. I'm not 100% on the cause of that warm start problem at the moment, it also feels like it's running a little rough between the 2.5 and 3k revs area but not significantly. Idling is fine no stutters, power and acceleration are there (I can foot to floor and belt it up a hill without hesitation).

Hi, Sorry was away a few days (almost 1,000 miles added to the GV and no issues with cutting out I'm pleased to say). Yes, I found the same thing, the heater was disconnected, when tested/reconnected it was a dead short, looks like it's in the wiring loom somewhere up behind the glovebox as it passes between outer and inner bodywork, I've not yet traced it as I simply cut it back under the carpet and wired it up elsewhere, happy to give details if you need it. In terms of my cutting out, no I don't think it was ultimately the issue, though may have been one of many combined together causing me issues. Unless you have problems I'd not worry about it as also cannot see it making a huge difference.

Just to add to this, since you have TRAC OFF and the brake light illuminated that points to a missing sensor, i.e. no reading at all from (I believe) one of the front two wheel speed sensors which was what Mike was pointing to. Also Mike spot on with the ESP being nothing to do with ABS. I believe it's used BY the ABS for wheel speed sensing as auxiliary input but the ABS system itself doesn't require them to be working to operate correctly. I've tested this (Not on purpose!) when I've had a sensor totally disconnected and can confirm the ABS does still kick in. Back to the original point adamalzo66, yes they are relatively cheap but as Mike says do some basic diagnostics, and don't bother getting the cheap bluetooth dongles and Torque or similar, they just won't be of any use on these cars. First thing I'd be doing (Since you don't have a scanner) is taking the front wheels off, taking a look at the sensor, are the wires ok, is the connector plugged in, etc. As you've got both lights off it means the ECU cannot see the sensor at all (It gets a resistance back from it when stationary, and when moving it generates a small AC current) as though it was unplugged or cable damaged, so I'd be doing obvious visual checks first before delving in further.

Thanks @@Expoman interesting to know the injectors made no difference for you. As a brief summary I think this is one of those faults that can have a handful of sources of the problem, hence never having a definitive answer to the problem. I've just changed the MAP/TC sensor which on this is combined with a manifold temperature sensor. When I took the old one out it was pretty gunked up due to carbon (damn you EGR) so wouldn't be surprised if this wasn't giving accurate readings. Probably not the root cause of my problems, but another item that won't be helping the matter.

Hi @@SJC when you say injectors were in need of replacement, was that the garage telling you that, what evidence did they have for it as I'd be very interested in what testing (pressure, leak-back, etc) they carried out to come to that summary. Injectors (all 4) won't be a cheap repair as new they run to around £200 each. Sorry, I missed your other question. PCM valve relay doesn't make a lot of sense. I'll look it up when at home on my diagnostics software, but PCM is powertrain control module, so what "valve relay" doesn't sound quite right! I'll look it up though and let you know. Fingers crossed it has solved your issues though.

I'm still plodding on, warmer weather and it runs great! At the weekend I tested the diesel injectors for leak-off, all were about the same gently spotting which is what i'd expect, very little variance on them between all 4. I've also tested the air temperature in the boost sensor and readings weren't what the factory spec stated, so I've ordered a replacement Bosch TC/temp sensor to replace it as a further thing to try. Other than that I'm really stumped on what else it could be! @@Expoman Any change to your situation after the replacement?

Interesting thought mikebh8 but I've sort of discounted it as it's not all the time. For example yesterday and today temperatures above 4oC and it ran sweetly. I've noticed, when it's unhappy and cold it runs lumpy, starting gives clouds of grey smoke (unburnt diesel type) and also whilst running/accelerating. On a good day, it starts without any smoke, same when running. I'm leaning towards injectors so jobs this weekend are to do the injector leak-off test to see the results and also to test the air temperature sensor incorporated into the TC boost sensor.

Hi there, Take a look at my ongoing thread: http://www.chryslerforum.co.uk/topic/2219-28crd-cutting-out-above-25k-rpm/ I'm currently diagnosing this step-by-step myself and so far haven't found a conclusive answer, similar to your garage. The reason why the ECU isn't giving codes (Other than generic fuel pressure faults) is because the 2.8CRD diesel was a 'modification' to the original range and the specific diesel faults aren't mapped into the ECU, an example is you can disconnect the lift pump, fuel heater, etc, and the ECU won't throw a code, because it doesn't know these items exist. Unfortunately it's ongoing for me, and I get the same cut-outs, normally in cold weather though, as I was driving today in 5oC and no cut outs and engine started without any smoke and ran very smoothly. When it's at it's worst, starting gives clouds of smoke (unburnt diesel type), smokes when running and feels rough when you accelerate or watch it idle (When it keeps running that is).

Thanks all. And so it continues! So I've been tracking down the short to ground on the fuel heater wiring, I *think* it's where the wiring loom comes in from the passenger side wheel through into the cockpit behind the glovebox, but I didn't dismantle the dash far enough. So, what I've done is located the wiring loom down the centre of the vehicle, identified the wiring colours from the IPM/fusebox and cut the wires towards the rear before it went back out to the pump assembly connector. I've included photos so everyone else has reference if they ever need to trace cables/wiring looms! Back of the IPM (remove battery, then the IPM flips up easily from a plastic clip) and the connector in question is the ORANGE almost dead centre here. Traced that to the relay switched positive side. (So from battery positive it goes to one side of the 20a fuse, other side of fuse goes to relay (omron 21911c) pin 87. Output of switched relay pin 30 goes to dark blue wire with orange stripe pin 2 on the orange connector at back of IPM. So then follow that wiring loom, it goes into the wheel arch on passenger side, up and over and into the cockpit. I didn't identify that location, but that's my guess where the damage to the loom exists. That's my next job as my thinking is if that wire has shorted, another or others are next on the hit list! Inside the car the loom then splits and either goes along the passenger door, passenger seat belt pillar, to rear door. Other part of the loom crosses somewhere under the passenger seat, into the middle duct of the car. So to access that, take the mount for the centre middle-row console out. You can see the black plastic cover for the duct. Unfortunately the break/split point is somewhere along the middle between the middle and rear seats, so as you can see I decided to cut the carpet to gain access. And you can then lift up the plastic and gain access You can see the rubber grommit where the cables that run down to the lift pump go, so that wiring plug carries: fuel heater, fuel lift pump, and water-in-diesel sensor. 6-way. The connector underneath that plugs into the lift pump assembly is a 6-way, pin 1 (top left) is the heater pin (dark blue wire with orange stripe) and bottom right (pin6) is ground. The fuel heater is approx 3ohms on mine, which @12v and 20amp potentially equates to a 240watt heater! Wow, so this runs almost constantly, so another big battery drain to be aware of! It's on at the moment ignition is in first position, so something to be aware of if you sit listening to the radio a lot on the 2.8CRD with this setup!! Anyway, after all this, I've wired it in direct and tried again and I'm still getting rough idling, cutting out at idle and hesitation, so it hasn't solved my problem (Also replaced fuel filter for good measure again). So I'm onto more thinking :-( I've got the specs for two sensors I'm going to test next, one is the intake air temperature sensor (Which is incorporated into the TC boost sensor, 4-wire jobby). The next is the MAF, again check readings, etc. After that, must be injectors?

Spot on Mike, handy that, good reference for a lot of faults and info. Just one downside, no P1 fault codes in there, but that's only a minor thing. I've already looked up sensors, testing and their guide ohm or voltage values, which is invaluable for testing sensors. I found the getuid files missing, so grabbed them elsewhere and I've attached here just in case anyone else has problems. getuid.zip

Hi there, welcome to the club fantastic cars when they're not acting up! My previous gv had the same problem with the door locks, quick 'fix' pop the bonnet, go to the fuse box and take the Iod fuse out for a few seconds. Back in and they'll start working. I think it's caused by a sticky lock actuator, so if you feel like it, take door cards off and clean them up, lube them up and it might sort it. (mine was because the rear doors had their popup locks removed as it was used as a taxi, and I suspect this was causing jamming problems)

Great, thanks for the extra confirmation!

Well, this gets stranger perhaps, so bear with me! After getting it home, starting to think through it all again, as was about to change the filter @@mikebh8 as I was thinking the same, gunk in there, building up over time, so swap/clear it out again. Then I thought, this is temperature related. Cold weather every time. So looked at what is temperature linked. Diesel fuel heater, which is inside the filter assembly. Shop manual states it operates at 8oC and lower and will run fuel temperature up to 25oC. So that would/should be running helping the fuel atomise (General google search confirms that all diesels have this and symptoms of failure are exactly this, cold weather start and random cut out). So went to check the fuse and relay first... MISSING from fusebox. So I borrowed a relay and fuse, ignition on and the 20amp fuse blew straight away, so we've got a short. So, went under car and disconnected the connector block (6-way to the fuel assembly, carrying the lift pump power, water-in-fuel sensor and the fuel heater). Tried again, blew fuse again, so I now know it's actually a wiring fault/short to ground somewhere between the IPM and the connector at the fuel filter housing. So that's the next job, find the wiring fault/short causing the problem. Maybe I'm getting somewhere, or maybe I'm on a wild goose chase, either way I've got a fault to fix! If anyone else could do me a favour? If you have a diesel GV, have a look for that fuse and relay, just to confirm they should actually be in there. I'm going to say yes they should since the electrical connections exist, the diagrams show the existence of the heater, etc.

Well, I'm currently sat broken down again. This morning we had snow and cold temperatures (0oC) which was the same as last time so it is temperature related. This is cutting out and dying at low revs as well as higher revs (idling it'll stall out itself). So next plan is change the fuel filter. Next maybe the fuel heater in the fuel housing since it's always in very cold weather?

Thanks @@mikebh8 you reminded me about the other bit of key info I'd discovered! If you disconnect the sensor, then the brake warning light illuminates as well as TRAC OFF. So this suggests if the BCM cannot see/detect the sensor it throws the brake warning light as well. So my thinking is when you get TRAC OFF alone it's simply not sensing the speed/rotation of the wheel rather that complete sensor failure.

Just to add to this, I've done around 500 miles more in mine now and still no issues after just taking off and back on the filter housing, think you might be onto something there @@soupstone I've still got the replacement Bosch filter ready so if it does it again I'll swap it... As everyone DID suggest as first thing to do and I didn't since I'd already done that 1yr ago! It's a weird one @@Expoman and strange also yours has been fine. I'm waiting for - temperature weather again (was 0oC this morning) as it was on a -2oC day it happened the first time, not sure if that's related. Good luck m8

Hi there, Welcome to the club, they're great cars and we're all really enthusiastic about them! So, TRAC OFF is quite a common one, it's currently displayed on mine. Firstly how it works. Normally traction control is ENABLED by default, so you should have nothing shown on the dash. The button is used to disable it temporarily (to rock free from snow, etc) and is done by pressing the button. Since yours is on from switch on it means the system is disabled due to a fault. Since I'm guessing you don't have a fancy Chrysler-compatible code reader you'll have to take a few guesses at what is wrong. Mine appears to be the wheel speed sensor, this is a magnetic inductance sensor that is attached to the wheel hub and senses a toothed wheel spinning, causing an inductance that the car ABS computer reads and calculates speed and can work out slipping. In my case the front right sensor (I had codes read) is faulty and needs replacing. In some cases the toothed wheel needs wire brushing and cleaning which solves it, so I'd start with that. Take wheel off, take a look behind the brake disc and you should see the toothed wheel and towards the front (I think from memory!) is the speed sensor, check it's fitted ok, cable not damaged, etc (It's on a connector to the top of the wheel arch behind a plastic trim) and then clean up the speed sensor. It's an auto reset item, so when you fix it after a short distance the indicator will reset and go out (hopefully). Good luck and post back on how you get on.

Funny you mention that @@gordy but that's the problem I faced, mine aren't great and then I found the push pins had pulled through the rear backplate completely due to corrosion. I also don't think the springs are very good on these pins as you seem to almost 100% compress them to fit, so there is way too much force involved. I changed the spring on mine to a smaller coil and found another vehicle used similar diameter pins but with a slotted washer that went at the back to secure them, using those and it works a dream now fitting-wise. Here are the ones I found, I flattened them and they fit nicely at the back to hold securely. I looked up replacement backplates, etc, and Mopar will supply them but at a potentially eye watering cost. Did you try ringing the dealership with the part numbers, see what they say? (I know Chrysler are out of the UK now, but the same supply chain is still there for Mopar parts). Thanks @@QinteQ I've been round the usuals with the handbrake as we all know is absolute pants on these things! At least it's passed so that's another year before worrying again.

Hi folks, Amidst my other problems, I had to get an MOT carried out, and initially it failed with the following problems: Parking brake: efficiency below requirements [3.7.B.7]Brake hose twisted Nearside Rear [3.6.B.4c]Headlamp aim too high Nearside Front [1.8]Headlamp aim too high Offside Front [1.8]Brake disc in such a condition that it is seriously weakened Nearside Front [3.5.1i] So, parking brake we have that fun all the time! Did another batch of fiddling with the adjuster wheel, car up on stands, balace the two sides and got it improved (Still only at 20% overall efficiency, but it's a pass) This is the curious one, "Brake hose twisted Nearside Rear [3.6.B.4c]". Now I checked as first thought had I put a caliper on twisted or somehow twisted the pipe, but no, perfectly straight, then I started looking from underneath as per how the tester would have seen as it's on ramps, and the only thing I can think of is he spotted how the OEM brackets cause the pipes to go from beside each other to above/below each other, which of course causes the pipe to 'cross'. I took some photos, as I'm guessing most others here will never have heard/seen this before! In photo two you see as one brake cable goes over the other due to how the brackets are. To me this is factory standard, so not a failure point? Anyway, when I took it in (I'd replaced the discs, pads, readjusted headlights and improved the park brake), I didn't say a thing, left him to do the retest and waited for it failing on this again and then having the argument, to my surprise it passed this time. So just one to watch for as I don't believe that should have been a failure reason, but at the same time a couple of picky points, I think he was having an off day (It was last MOT on a Friday, he was running late, etc).

Right, well this is getting odd now! As you know, I spun the fuel filter off, had a look and didn't see much of a problem. I've not really used the car since. This weekend I had it out and driving (Went for MOT) and thought I'd see how it was behaving. I could NOT get it to stall on me, hard acceleration, slow acceleration, almost red-lining the revs and it just wouldn't do it! Thought it was a fluke but did it several times over the weekend and can't get it to fail on me. So several bits to this: I've had the fuel filter off, filter out, tipped gunk out of bottom of housing, reseated rubber o-ring and refitted it. I've also been running this potentially 'bad' fuel down (down to half a tank now from full) and have put redex diesel injector cleaner in it (upping the RON). So could it have been a combination of the above? I'm not saying this is fixed as I'm expecting it to do it again but I'm starting to wonder now.

Thanks Mike/Nev, I thought about auto-shutdown, but it's a more precise point of cutting out than a potential random electrical drop, plus the LED/signal test I've now done with the fuel solenoid I believe eliminates anything about the ECU shutting the engine down as it doesn't try to kill the fuel supply/solenoid (Which would be an obvious first shutdown kill-switch to pull). One thing, on the .com forum somebody mentioned the solenoid is more a valve than on/off, so a binary LED test may not be 100% accurate, although it did stay constantly on, so it was good enough for my test. Nev, not sure on the fuel line block, not sure how to check that easily either, other than somehow cutting a bit of line and putting clear pipe to 'watch' for bubbles or collapse of the pipe. High pressure fuel pump under-delivering is a real possibility. The HP pump is directly driven from the timing belt, unsure if it's 'timed' as such on these engines and if that has an impact, but my understanding is the HP pump gives out a constant 'high' pressure fed to the line, the injectors take their pressure/required squirt and anything over is returned via the over-pressure/return lines, so in theory if the pump isn't giving out enough pressure it would affect all engine speeds, not just higher. True enough on not being able to re-pressure the system, Steve and my own experiences show the low-pressure/electric lift pump seems to HAVE to run to re-prime the system which fits with your experience on the Galaxy. I'm wondering if a punt of a second hand injector and then doing injector swapping might highlight one or more faulty ones causing it. Long shot, but again so far I've spent very little cost on this so a £50 ebay injector might be worth a go, providing they're not wedged in too tightly. Steve, mine also developed this, have had it almost 3yrs now and other than occasional tough starting in the cold (even after glo plugs changed) it's never failed in this way, so yes I'd agree it's developed and got worse over time, so wear and tear probably. Also Steve, good luck on the fuel filter replacement, it seems a lot of people after doing that resolve this problem, so I think there are a few different scenarios that cause this issue, so there may not be one right answer unfortunately. I'm tempted to change the filter on mine, it looked fine to me and was replaced last year but for the sake of another 20 mins and £30 it might be worth doing just incase something silly like a load of gunk in there has jammed it that I can't see and is choking it (Kinda contrary to my thoughts earlier on the HP pump, but at the moment I'm trying just about anything in reason!) As always will keep posting back :-) Good luck Steve, thanks for posting back it's appreciated having another set of eyes on the problem. Pity you're all the way in sunny France otherwise would happily swap notes over a cuppa!