andyb2000

Definitely sounding hopeful and yes holding my breath for you, thanks for replying back some really good information there to help others if they have issues with their transmission. BTW not wanting to turn this into a selling page but can you post the auto electricians location/fb page or similar, he sounds a handy guy for the community.

Hi there, Unfortunately this can be a long list of problems, there are lots of posts on here and on other forums and I did a whole video dedicated to it: https://youtu.be/ucfZfV1cNng When you say it won't run for hours what does it do, dashboard light up, you hear the starter motor turning the engine over it just never fires? When it does that if you waggle your foot on the accelerator will it catch and start? Also, the assumption is the cut out is when you do hard acceleration/over 3.5k rpm? That's the common failure. So back to the list: Fuel filter - when was it last changedFuel - what fuel do you buyFuel - put a diesel cleaner/additive through it sometimes helpsIf the filter has been changed recently, get the filter assembly checked to make sure its sealed properly, has an o-ring. Worth getting it changed againIs it a front or rear fuel filter model? The 05 has different designs, if front check the primer pump and pump it to get it started, if it goes soft it means potentially air/leaking(Those are just a few that popped into my head as I type, there are lots of posts on the matter! Engine warning light is a newer one that hasn't been seen in many cases, the fact that the garages plugged in and got no codes means they're not using the right code readers, these need very expensive/special readers to read the Chrysler codes, so the fact the engine light is on but they see no codes means their reader isn't good enough for the job!

I think you're getting somewhere, even by elimination. Voltage is fine, the ECU regulates the voltage of charge anything up to 14.5v is around right so that looks fine to me voltage-wise (Beware not to take battery terminal off too much, it can cause spikes and fry ECU!) I think the key here is you changed the solenoid pack, it helped then stopped again. That makes me think what you did when replacing solenoids improved things. Did you empty fluid and totally refill? I'm thinking along the same lines, have you changed the autobox filter and done a full fluid change? When you drop the solenoid pack out next time I'd be changing filter and fluid completely and then potentially do that once again after a day or so (It's difficult to do a complete fluid change).

Hi there, Same engine/year here. I don't think the codes will be related, P1130 is a very generic fault and can be from almost anything that caused a stall or cut out, check the forum and you'll find loads, especially over winter. P0113 can be another transient fault, so again probably not connected to this issue. The bit here I think I'd concentrate on is the burning smell, what type, hot engine oil (sort of normal on these big diesel beasts in hot weather, high mileage, etc) or electrical. If it's electrical then it may be worth checking the wiring looms for damage as an issue there would put the box into limp mode but it's self correcting.

Wow, that is indeed a strange one, yes it's amazing what an older-school technician can spot and work out, always worthwhile! So you've narrowed it down to 1st and reverse, so initial shift. When you put the lever into N position will it freewheel without friction (Maybe one to try again with the car up in the air to see what amount of rotation you get). ABS sensor/wheel speed sensor is a common one and easily replaced. I also had a stored code a while ago for undervoltage on pump, believe that was from a stall/cut-out as we cleared the fault and it's not come back. Hope you can narrow it down and do feed back as it's unusual for sure.

Sounds electrical to me, when you go to start do you hear a click/tick or anything or completely dead, I'm assuming when turning ignition on you get dash lights, radio comes on, etc? Two things come to mind, first is immobiliser, does yours have the red LED on the dash, when key goes in does it go out? Try the spare key as the chip in the key is important and can wear out or the receiver ring starts to go faulty and won't disable the immobiliser. Second i'd be thinking the battery or alternator has just failed on you (Or both) and battery can't give enough current to run the starter motor (as the guys have said, Airbag light comes on typically when battery is low as airbag systems don't like a low voltage). Get a multimeter/voltage meter and see what the battery is giving out. You should be around 12v with nothing turned on at the battery terminals, turn ignition on (so dash comes on) and look, if it drops below around 11.5v then you might have a problem, get somebody to try and start it and watch the meter if it drops really low then it's the battery is dead, you can try recharging it overnight and try again, but it might already be too far gone. As for cause, that's where you find out if the alternator is also goosed as if it's not been charging properly then that'll cause slow degradation of the battery.

Hi Alex, it sounds more mechanical than electrical to me so I'm going to suspect unless a specific gearbox fault you'll not get far with codes and electrical diagnostics. Keydance is 3x into ACC position leaving it there at last switch for codes to be displayed, have a pen and paper handy! Unfortunately this is the opposite of most issues with a worn gearbox (slippage), so I think next steps would be an auto-gearbox specialist to take a look or at least describe the problem to them and see if they're aware of it or have found this problem before.

Good test, so yes eliminated that, so yes it does sound like gearbox/torque converter, but not a fault I've heard of before. Going to start reading up!

Does sound more like braking to me than the gearbox, my bet would be calipers sticking, especially rear, so when it happens, or perhaps do a quick drive, let it slow down a few times then go and CAREFULLY touch the allow wheels, see if any of them have got hot or warm to the touch, might save you taking each wheel off in turn!

Hi Daz264, Yes that's correct, you will still get warmth eventually, but just will take longer as it'll just use the engine warmth. (PS: Pls open a new topic rather than reopen an old one!)

Ah ok, fair enough. Have you also looked at the MAP/TC temperature sensor, as due to the EGR spewing it's nasty my sensor was in a bad state, might be quicker than doing the EGR clean up in short term.

Hi all, This is one of the jobs I've got this summer, so I'm open to suggestions on best cure/solution. My current thinking is plastic/masking tape around affected area, gently sand to cleanup and remove debris, use that rust-converter stuff (HAMMERITE KURUST 90ML - Rust Treatment /Killer) to convert/revert it to something solid, give it an undercoat/protector (CarPlan Tetroseal Underbody Underseal Sealant?) and then paint over the top (rattle cans?) Anyone any comments on the above plan, or can tell me I'm talking rubbish and tell me the best solution!

Hi, sorry not sure on the torque but have you gone through the long list of possible causes for this cutting out? I wrote them all up and put a video on youtube not long ago, fuel filter seems a key one, regardless of when you last changed it!

Hi there, I'm not 100% sure on what else to look for, but I'd look away from the flexplate for now, when that is nearing end of it's life you get rattling/rasping noise mainly at idle or not at load. I had an almost failed flexplate and wrote quite a bit up about it if you need more info, but I can't see how that would cause you a P0344 or hesitation as it's a solid metal wheel, it'll either work or totally give way and won't transfer any movement from the engine to gearbox.

Thanks for the heads up guys, shows how valuable this community info is. I've never listened/checked for this before, so a hint would be welcomed, so on a tight turn, slowly moving forward/backwards you'd hear a ticking/clicking?

Hi there, 16 is very low even for these. What model diesel is it? And does it give out clouds of smoke on acceleration, on idling, on start, etc? Could be a lot of things so we can start to narrow it down. Also, most code readers won't get much out of these cars, especially the diesel editions so it's almost pointless going down that diagnostic route, need good old fashioned car thinking!

To test the sensor, it's a hall effect sensor so you can test with a multimeter. Jack the wheel up. Disconnect sensor, set your meter to AC voltage sensing, low voltage as you'll only get a small amount (20v or lower from memory). Connect the sensor to the meter (easier if you use crocodile clips). Then spin the wheel and you should see a voltage being generated. If not then the sensor or toothed ring are at fault. You can also do a basic check on the sensor itself, put the meter in resistance mode and see if it gives you a resistance over both pins, it shouldn't be open circuit, if it is chances are it's broken (Although that would normally also flag up the brake warning light too).

Agreed, that sounds more likely in your case @@frogland Swap to a different thread to keep the posts clean, I've looked over your previous posts and agree it appears to be related to your MAP/TC sensor.

I'd also be a little concerned that you're having to do that on the incline. Normally the box should shift down and cope with it, L and 3 are generally used when you're towing or wanting to force engine braking, the box should automatically shift down fully to handle any hills.

I just thought I'd check this tonight on my way home (2005 2.8CRD auto) and that sounds about right. Remember these are very old style American slushy boxes, so they've not got a great gear ratio, but they do learn. Mine was doing exactly what you said, around 2k rpm it was 50 and above. I didn't force it down to the 3 shift but I'd expect it to have dropped if I did that. I pushed it up to 70mph and it didn't push the revs too much over 2.5k rpm so looks the same as mine to me.

No problem, yeah look on the fusebox that should confirm it. I think the 2006 is the same as mine, so yes fuel lift pump (heater, filter) is beside the fuel tank approx in the middle. (Remember this is the low pressure primer/lift pump not the main high pressure pump that is driven from the timing belt) Take a look at my video that covered all of the cold problems I had https://www.patreon.com/posts/chrysler-grand-2-17356742 I cover the fuel filter, fuel heater and it's housing on the video and also show where it's located/mounted so should help you identify. Approx 11min50 is where I cover the fuel filter and pump. Oh, also video where I change the filter:

Hi @@blackvelvet The fuse doesn't supply the fuel pump also, just the heater, hence how it was totally removed (as was the relay) on mine but electric lift pump still worked. See the diagram on my fusebox which illustrates this: The highlighted is the lift pump fuse, above it is the fuel heater fuse.

Sorry @@QinteQ i forgot to reply earlier, no I'm good for now, no faults logging up so reckon I'm clear (For now!) So will leave it this week. Thanks anyway fella.

Glad this got you going again, was similar to mine, but I went through a lot of different steps and potentially different solutions. I've lumped it all together into a huge video covering all the bits I went through, so might be of use: https://www.patreon.com/posts/chrysler-grand-2-17356742

PS, I just did a video covering all of the cut-out problems and points of interest, including the Fuel heater, might be of use: https://www.patreon.com/posts/chrysler-grand-2-17356742