andyb2000

Yep, the only real fix for this is investigation work, you need to track down what is 'blowing' the soft e-fuse. The e-fuse in the BCM will stop the central locking working when it senses too high a current being drawn from the central locking. Too high current is normally due to a central locking motor going faulty, or one being jammed. So first easy one, do any of the doors not unlock remotely? If so start there, otherwise you'd need to go to each motor, possibly disconnect one at a time and try to cause the fault to occur.

Hi there, I'm sure I replied to this but not sure where the reply went! Engine management with P0016 as you say whilst running (Is it cutting out over 2.5k RPM too?) sounds like weak fuel pressure, not 100% on the Petrol one but does it also have a fuel solenoid to regulate the pressure? That might be worth looking into. Airbag cannot see the correlation with P0016 though, ABS rings won't be related as that would trigger the ABS or TRAC OFF warnings. Airbag can be so many faults unfortunately, it needs an advanced ODB reader to get you the actual code causing it and then repairing that way, otherwise you're really onto a lot of trouble to find the faulty part. However, airbag is self-resetting, so after fixing the fault, drive it 1mile or so and the light should go out if you've resolved the fault.

Hi, Just to add to Nev's post as some good info in there, yes assuming Diesel it's listed at 20k km, HOWEVER I'd really recommend yearly. The junk the filters have to deal with I've found that each year I do mine they get a waxy like build up on them which I'm assuming is the biodiesel mix going into most fuels now, and using logic if its covered in waxy deposits then it won't be letting the fuel flow through it as easily. Doing it properly is straight forward though, for the rear filter by the tank, just follow the simple steps, I've done a video on changing that filter so just search for it and you just need to make sure the housing isn't damaged, etc. For the one in the engine bay, I believe it's a fairly similar procedure. Luckily on these beasts the re-prime isn't too difficult and doesn't need a garage to re-prime the system and get it flowing again (A lot of diesels if their fuel line goes dry/bubbles then they struggle to start again as @@bignev mentions, but in our case that's not the problem). So check which one you have and order it accordingly.

Hi m8, Sorry for the delay in replying, not 100% on the 2007 as that's the newer design than mine, but mine are defo 2ohm so make sure you're driving them with a decent head unit or amp to avoid stressing the head units drivers. Actually, I never checked the smaller top speakers, they're all driven independently from the factory amp so I'd make the assumption they're the same so they can be balanced.

The code is a strange one, it depends on the model, I've never had to enter the code in on my factory RB3 as it seems to get the code from the BCM automatically, but others have had to, so it depends which one is yours, and how brave you're feeling! The fact it works fine when stationary (Engine on or off?) makes me think it's related to electrical noise, or vibration somewhere so a connector might be loose. I'd start looking behind the radio though as that's the easiest access to start with. I also put a video together on how to get at the back of the radio.

Ah ok, I'm wondering if the blue tint is just a trick of the eye then, as it's sounding more likely that one or more of your glow plugs are dead and it's doing a rough start. Either that or it's one of the injectors starting to leak off more and needs to get going before it keeps up with the pace! Do a leak-off test on the injectors, various videos around that show how (including one of mine on youtube) as it might point to one of the injectors. Also check the glow plugs as those are relatively easily checked. But am glad to say it doesn't sound as worrying as at first, keep a close eye on the fluids though as these beasts sometimes trick you with the fluids!

Hi, This doesn't sound good, as smoke with blue in it normally indicates burning oil. The diesels do normally smoke a little, but it should be whiteish/grey smoke without the blue to it. Have you checked oil and water, neither dropping dramatically, or getting a film on the top of the expansion bottle water. Also in the oil filler cap look for emusification (a yellow/white cream). To me this sounds potentially like you've got a head gasket or worse is failing, as the missing could be lack of compression in one or more of the cylinders. What other checks have you done, and when warm does the problem go away as that would suggest gasket as when warm it will expand slightly and possibly seal back up again.

The steering wheel controls use the CANBUS to send the signals, so it could be either the physical buttons are damaged and occasionally making contact causing the radio to occasionally change, or there may be a more serious problem. Also, does your horn work and the cruise control buttons work OK? They all connect using a spring like connector that's in the steering wheel which commonly starts to fail due to constant rotation, etc, and eventually will fail completely and give you an airbag warning light, horn won't work and neither will any steering volume/channel buttons. First though as BumBle02 says, try the battery disconnect. If that doesn't make a difference then the next thing would be to start checking the grounds, as a poor ground could cause that. Also, does it only do it when the car is running, or if you sit with ignition on but engine not running is it the same? The reason I say that is a faulty alternator/noisy voltage regulator (built into the BCM on these unfortunately) can cause electrical noise on the CANBUS and can cause the occasional odd signal to be sent/received on it causing jumps like that.

Great news Nev, How were the injectors to do then, not too bad or took a while on them? I keep putting it off as don't get much on leak-off but wonder if it would help on mine. Yeah, there are a few things that cause this and stubborn is the way to go! Keep at it and you'll get it sussed.

@@bignev ouch, yep get that injector out, me being the bodger I am I'd not go with the extractor kit, these ones are relatively simple in design so should work with the old unscrew head/top and rattle to extract. Hopefully that'll sort yours as that definitely will be causing a struggle! @@Mrpablo84 Hm, so it won't start pretty much at all, so just constantly turning over, does it sound like it's trying (stutters, starts then immediately dies, that sort of thing, or totally nothing?). That could be fuel starvation, or failing compression I'd think. So for fuel starvation, if you do the leak-back test on the injectors that Bignev refers to (It's on one of my youtube videos) do you get any fuel run off? You will always get a little, and if you get a little then at least you know fuel line isn't blocked and there is fuel. Unfortunately, fuel problem could be: fuel solenoid, HP pump, low pressure/primer pump. Is yours the rear tank mounted electric lift pump, or does it have the pump with manual primer in the engine bay? Take a look in the engine bay and underneath and find out, if it's the one in the engine bay, see if you can prime it before starting, the bulb should be hard not soft. If it's electric, then when you first turn key you should hear the pump run for about 10 seconds then cut out, does it run? Good luck and hopefully we can start to narrow it down.

Hi there, Yep blue wire to force the amplifier ON will work, BUT you'll find what I did when doing a lot of investigations, you won't have front/rear control from your new head unit, the factory amp does some weirdy tricks to do that. If you want a bit of reading I've written a load of info on my adventures on my blog about it: http://www.thebmwz3.co.uk/2017/12/chrysler-audio-system-amplifier-and.html (and you've already seen my youtube stuff BumBle02). I've had two CGV's now (And looked at several other peoples!) and almost each one has had a slightly different audio wiring and setup, so my general thinking is, try the cheap/easy option of a cable/converter cable first (This worked on my first GV, which for some reason I think had MUCH better audio than my second, even though I suspect my first didn't have infinity!). Then from there work downwards doing more testing and figuring it out. The long and the short of it, is if you stick with factory amp then you can get audio through it by doing some tweaks, but results may vary. Only true way of solving is the route I took which is to remove the factory amp and drive the speakers direct from the head unit. (BTW: Infinity stamped on the speakers isn't always a sign of a factory amp, mine has factory amp and no Infinity on the outside, only when you take them apart you see the Infinity label)

Suspect that you might be testing the CANBUS network feed which probably carries the trigger signal for the door actuators rather than a "classic" voltage high to run the motor. I'm just guessing here though, would need to dig out the wiring diagrams, but based on other things on these I'd expect there to be constant 12v feed, then a signal/CANBUS wire that signals to the electrics in the door/actuator to operate. Agree with bignev though, if it twitches, then it's getting the signal to operate just motor has gone weak or the internal plastic wheel has chewed up.

If the connector to the gearbox was loose/disconnected, it would cause all the gear selector lights to come on and a gearbox fault code (You'd need a proper reader though) to be generated, so I don't think that's the case here. Hopefully it's gone away for you then, fingers crossed. An ATF and filter change are never a bad thing, don't flush or anything like that, just suck out the previous and/or drop the pan and do the replacement.

Hi there fellow North-Easterner, This seems a pretty common one I've seen many first-hand doing it, and still haven't tracked it down myself! If you waggle foot on the accelerator whilst turning over does it fire up? I've seen various reasons touted, but none solved. So far on mine I've changed (these weren't just because of this, it was also due to the cutting out in cold weather problems) glow plugs (Highly unlikely since cold start is good)good diesel/poor supermarket diesel (Again seems to mainly be the cutouts not starting, I only use BP fuel now)crank sensor - changed, no differencefuel filter - changed no differencefuel filter housing - Mine is the rear beside tank and hasn't been changedfuel heater - Repaired/confirmed working, no changeMAP/TC temperature sensor - changed, no differencepressure relief valve - Not changed, but tested and no leakoffInjector return/leak test - About the same leak-off from each injector suggesting that none are acting wildly out)High pressure pump and solenoid - checked solenoid voltage supply and it's getting PWM (pulse width modulated) supply and appears OK, but not 100% So for now mine starts relatively easily, when warm either on first turn with a foot waggle, or after a second turn with a foot waggle and it fires. Anyone else any suggestions as happy to dig deeper and try to find the issue here.

Yep, As QinteQ says, manifold pressure sensor combined with TC temperature sensor, both of these are critical for engine management control. I'm unsure which of the two could have had the biggest impact, but based on the state of my sensor, neither could have been operating correctly. It's a quick check, hex/allen key and pop it off, take a look, if it's crusted up then you might be able to clean it with brake cleaner, see if it makes any difference.

Hi there, Yep, it's the dimmer control, should be a slider beside the light control switch beside the door. Try turning it up to full brightness and they should come back on as they've just gone very dim. If not then the variable control may be damaged and forcing it all to low brightness.

Hm, I'm a little confused by this one, so it won't even turn over? In which case no point looking into fuel yet, need to solve the electrical problem first. With a battery multimeter set to voltage, stick that on the battery and try to turn over. See what the volts drop down to whilst the starter fires (or tries to fire), if it's below 11v then the battery is screwed. Verify that, borrow the battery off another car, jumper to jumper (Even better, other car running and jump leads in place) and try to turn yours over. If it turns over, you've confirmed, battery problem regardless of what the testers say. Make sure it's a decent battery, QinteQ has the top post on that, read those and look at the CCA carefully. Even my higher CCA battery (Still not the 'proper' CCA for our diesel lumps) struggles to kick mine over at times. If it doesn't turn over, then you need to investigate electrical, starter motor wire is a common one, the connector rattles and goes bad, also the starter motor relay needs checking: https://imgur.com/a/7lAyHCI After that, then it's onto the non-start problem, have you already checked glowplugs as those will help cold starts? After that, then yes the next is fuel supply, assuming yours is the same as QinteQ and has the filter in the engine bay and not underneath beside the tank? Post back and we'll see what else we can come up with!

Thanks for that gordy/bignev, I've been having the same thing, and glad you brought this thread back up! Mine are STILL doing it (That's after the new rack years back, new top mounts, ARB joints), It's been aligned several times (Last time the buggers also chewed up my steering boots so need to replace those too which is a pain!). So the takeaway advise is?? Get the tracking checked and checked again? I'm not adverse to getting it checked and paying since going through tyres is getting annoying.

Thats folks, sounds like I'm on the right track. I think I'll start with the alternator clutch unit itself as that's relatively cheap (£25) and see if that makes a difference first. @@macuniyanukukuk where did you get the bits from? Pricing that up it comes to about double what you paid! (Unless that's because of Diesel difference) @@gordy is that a complete alternator disassembly and replace bearings, as sounds a bit involved?

Hello all, I've noticed this get louder recently so think it's about time to sort it whilst the weather is nice and I have time to tinker! It's a continual hiss/high sssss noise coming from the accessory belt. It gets louder on higher RPM, so it's related to the revolutions of the belt. I've checked using my mechanics stethoscope and it's not the power steering pump at the bottom, not the a/c pump either. Most noise came from when I listened to the alternator, quite a loud hiss coming from there so I'm thinking this is the culprit. So, apart from that it's a bit of a guess that it's the problem, do I replace the alternator, or just the alternator clutch/pulley itself as you can buy that separately and replace this on the alternator (My alternator is generally good), anyone done this and does this sound like a decent idea? Or should I just replace the whole alternator? Also, should I be thinking about the belt tensioner (idler, tensioner and belt) as a replacement too? (Though that's costly) Any suggestions please folks? It's 2.8CRD 2005 btw. Cheers

Coolant temperature sensor location From memory this is a 2-pin sensor (You'll soon notice when you take the connector off), if that's the case then it'll be a resistance type varying the resistance depending on temperature so you could do a simple test of check it when engine stone cold, then check it again after a drive around to get up to temperature, see what varyance is, but I'd not know the thresholds without doing more digging I'm afraid.

OK, so we know relays are eliminated. That sounds about right for them spinning, so at least they're free moving. I suppose next part is coolant temperature sensor which you rightly queried, though I'm not 100% on location, will take a look when I'm home at the wiring diagram, however what does the dial in the car show, if that reads normal I'd not expect the temperature sensor to be at fault. I guess next steps depending on how adventurous you are! Personally (being more inclined to electrical!) I'd be getting a couple of wires from a battery, disconnect one radiator fan connector and feed 12v straight into the fan terminal, get it to spin and see if it keeps spinning. That way you know for sure if it is the fan itself or not. (Usual caveats apply, don't cross the wires, etc, as car battery can pack quite a punch/spark!) The other alternative to that is to use a multimeter and read what voltage is being supplied to the fans, if its constant 12v then you know it's the fan itself, if it's 12v then down to 0 then its the ECU cutting power to the fans for some reason. Unfortunately it's a step-by-step process this one. I'm hoping it's not the ECU cutting the power as that could be all sorts of reasons.

Hm, all of the info above to me seems more related to coolant temperature, but the radiator fans not running continuously I think may be something different. When you have the engine running and switch the air con on the fans should come on and run continuously whilst the a/c is active, so if you force that (switch to manual, set low temperature and hit the a/c snowflake symbol) if the fans go on then switch straight back off my suspicion is that they're not spinning freely so the ECU is detecting this and cutting them so they don't burn out/damage, etc. So, with battery disconnected (to make sure fans don't start whilst playing!) see if you can spin each fan, they should spin freely and shouldn't stop the moment you stop spinning. If either one does then disconnect that fan, reconnect the battery and try the test again with the engine and a/c, see if it still cuts out. To me, this is the ECU cutting power to the fans for some reason, so i'd go electrical at first, check both relays (The two left-most relays on the front of the engine bay on the crossbeam) and if needed swap them for known good relays to test.

Not the easiest to do at all! Not sure if you saw it but I did a post a while back about it, wiring, etc: http://www.thebmwz3.co.uk/2017/12/chrysler-audio-system-amplifier-and.html

This does sound exactly what I had when mine was at it's worst. At first it just cut out under heavy RPM/load, but when it really failed it did that, cut out basically idling on the driveway. Also the 'chugging' trying to start was something I've had too, actually mine will still do this when the engine is warm, still haven't gotten to the bottom of that issue but i'm not getting cut outs anymore after working through everything shown. Go through everything in the video, methodically and work through items that you know are 'known good', as pressure relief valve and filter are easily done at home on the driveway so test the easy things before going to the harder/more expensive replacements. Unfortunately NO garage will be able to tell you 100% that one thing will fix it, if they do they're lying as none of these issues generate fault codes in the ECU enough to be sure on the corrective action.