andyb2000

Hiya Daz, So yes it's slipping which sounds like the solenoid pack is having a fault, you need to get a reader that can talk to the transmission as that'll be where the code is stored, I think it's an Autel (or clone) you'd need so hopefully somebody here in the forums near you can help out otherwise it's an expensive diagnostic visit (loads of garages also won't have the right reader). To me (at a guess) it sounds like overdrive (the slushy box positions) is slipping, when you force it up to 3 those are mechanical shifts, other shifts are done by the solenoid pack which is on the bottom of the transmission inside the pan, the solenoids do give up over time and cause a fault to be generated. Hope you get it found!

Hiya, I'm sure there is a drain plug down the left (As you face the car at front) of the radiator, checking my old video when I replaced the radiator https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6oB-vRH0qw4&t=852s Kinda shows it, but it's probably blocked with rubbish so in which case just go for the lower rad pipe on the opposite side and get ready to catch!

@@Dazzer Yeah that was my video changing them, depends how up for a challenge you are, as @@bignev says you can change the bushes, I've never attempted it as not justified the press (YET!). Thanks fellas btw, all good here for me, my Zafira doing the job but still not the replacement of my GV, I keep seeing the ads on FB for ones coming up and I'm tempted, but my wife would kill me if I got another project car (I've got a Volvo 480 barn find project on my drive at the minute, so learning welding) @@QinteQ how are you, hope you and the family are good, yes I'm popping up occasionally on the Facebook pages but not the forums often.

Hi Dazzer, All well here and popped back for my occasional visit to my good old GV forums. Still miss these things. Anyway, before mine went I had the same problem and changed both rear self levellers for regular shocks, there was no real noticeable difference at all to ride and performance and considering the cost, even if it meant that I had to change them more often I reckon it's a win. Cheers, Andy

Hi mate @@bignev not a problem, we're all learning as we go so no worries! Yes, the wiper scuttle and full assembly comes out and I'd done that so many times for various fixes, changing the coil springs, dampners, etc, to get access to the top bolt. So yes, when we attempted the thermostat (twice!) we had that out, I was lying on top of the engine reaching down, from memory (I didn't take pics unfortunately) that I could just reach the thermostat (I thought it was 3/4 way down the engine, but see pics below) but it's that close to the bulkhead into the cabin that getting a regular spanner/socket on there was next to impossible so couldn't get the purchase on the bolts to free them. Since it's been a while (And I sadly don't have my GV any more) I've looked up a couple of pics, so the thermostat looks like: So the 3 or 4 bolts sit beneath the main pipework. And the engine: So you see it top right, not as low as I thought, but getting access to it is the problem as the exhaust manifold is directly below it blocking access from underneath, and from the top your spanner can't get in! Well at least mine didn't! But I know it's possible as there are others that have confirmed they've managed. Ah well, not an issue for me anymore as unfortunately mine is long gone (And I'm stuck with a Zafira now) Cheers, Andy

Hi there, It's probably my video you've found: https://youtu.be/MpfQLsWLiic It's based on a mod not by myself but others on the .com forum, many people have done it in the past and on this forum so if you search you'll find many people that have done it. Worked great and haven't seen any negative issues raised by anyone so far on it. Hope it does the trick, getting to the original thermostat has been done (several people) but I've never managed it myself, access was just too difficult as tried several times from top and bottom and couldn't get to the bolts to sufficiently undo.

Hi, A bit old now, but I put some on my 2004/2005 edition (back when it worked!) and really loved the results: Guide on it I posted online: http://www.thebmwz3.co.uk/2018/04/daylight-running-leds-drl-and-indicator.html The ones I used were from ebay: https://ebay.us/1VxxR2

Hi guys, cheers for that, yeah unfortunately it's going. I've had 2 other people contact me directly, they've had failures very similar, so I'm starting to think the VM Motori 2.8CRD's might have a bit of a flaw in them. That'd explain why others have had a lot more out of theirs with the Petrol or different engines. No more GV's for me for a while, going to a Zafira (I know!) as need low mileage and something cheap to run/fix, not nearly as interesting as my old GV though. Sorry @@BumBle02 I've not been back to my parents yet where the GV is sat looking miserable on the drive, when I do I'll get you the o-ring sizes for pickup, there were definitely two O-rings on it though, one just visible when installed, the other inside the fitting.

One more to add to that, in neutral you should be able to push it! Put the shifter into N, take the battery off, take handbrake off (hopefully it's not binding) and try to move it. Does it roll? Or does it rock back and forth but not actually move? If it rocks then that sounds like the locking/park pin is stuck somehow, which might be the problem with that being physical. Good luck, not healthy thats for sure!

Sorry just saw this one! Yes Flexplate is the diesel specific plate that is also known as the flywheel on petrols. They crack around the crank bolts and cause vibration/rattle. When I did that work, accidentally left off the cable you mentioned and yes the gearbox was in limp mode so I only had physical shifts, so reverse, neutral, 1 and 2 (low I think from memory), so it will move but just watch you don't over-rev it. As QinteQ says the physical shifts should always work regardless, so the fact you can't get into reverse sounds bad news to me. Are the shift indicators showing correct or all boxes lit up? By the sounds of it, not revving over 2.5k RPM, that's the idle restriction kicking in, I'm assuming you mean when driving not just sat in park/neutral on the drive? (All the autos restrict idle revs to that). Makes me wonder if the speed sensing is not working correctly either, there are two speed sensors one input and one output for the autoboxes so that might be another issue. However, again the physical shifts should work no matter what, so if those aren't working it sounds a mechanical failure on the box than anything.

Hi all, Well, not wanting to leave an open end, the conclusion is that it's getting carried away to the scrappy sometime later this week (Giving me £80 for it, including pickup). Unfortunately when we dropped the sump, balance shaft assembly and oil pickup (Oil pickup O-rings were spot on) we felt rattle on cylinder 2 big end. Took it apart and WOW we found an amazing failure. Dropped the lower piece off, and NOTHING, no bearing at all, it had become sandwiched against the crank. So prising that off and it was in a bad state. What was worse was the upper bearing that had semi-welded itself to the crank. As you can imagine the crankshaft itself didn't look healthy, so being realistic it would be crank out, sand/grind it smooth then replace bearings with additional mm thickness. Way too much for me and my dad to attempt and too costly for a garage really. And so, that means it's the end of my CGV, I've taken a few parts off it so firstly - ANYONE WANT PARTS? Let me know ASAP and we'll come to some agreement. I'll still lurk the forums as love the cars and everyone here, so you've not got rid of me, but I doubt I'll be getting another CGV now as just don't need the room, or headaches on the older higher mileage. Mine did 138,465 on the clock and interior and external were still amazingly good for a 2004/2005 model. cheers @@QinteQ I appreciate it, and also appreciate the expertise and knowledge you've given me over the years. @@BumBle02 I've got the oil pickup and o-rings sat in my garage, I'll check the O-Rings for you and drop you a message. If you want it, you can have it! @@karmannski We didn't get as far as oil pressure, suspect oil pump was OK in the end and it was the big end letting go that caused the drop in pressure. Images (hi-res) of the big end failure and crank are below for those curious: https://imgur.com/a/28YRQLY

Thanks folks, yes couple of suspects at the moment. I've not had a chance to get oil pressure tested or get much further. Car is at my dads whos managed to do a little so far, so dropped oil and pan, no bits in the sump so that's a good start. Planning on dropping the balance shaft assembly out and taking a look at the crankshaft and look for play in that. Also, on the balance shaft assembly there are supposed to be 3 o-rings, that seal the oil channels, the suspicion is these weren't replaced/in place on mine which is something to look for as that would cause low oil pressure. That's also along the lines that you suggest @@BumBle02 with the oil pickup pipe, as that was off last year too, so that's another one. Thanks both of you, will give you updates when I get a chance to have a look and figure things further, will also try and get a recording of the sound to help identify too. Cheers

Background: 2005 Chrysler Grand Voyager 2.8CRD 138,000miles, regular servicing by myself, last oil and filter change approx 2 months ago, nothing unusual. Running well, occasional rough start, occasional tough warm restarts. Unfortunately my trouble-free running has come to an abrupt ending. After doing some heavy miles over the past few weeks (1,000 in a week, 400 in a day, motorway constant running) we went for a 40 minute journey today. Going up several hills working the car hard accelerating up the hill, all still fine. On the last hill, halfway up the temperature started to go up, my temperature gauge is always rock solid on half, even sat in long traffic, etc, it rarely goes a notch above. Today it went a notch or two above, still below what I'd say was 10-to (the hr), I put this down to the long uphill. As we approached the top of the hill I got an oil pressure light flicker several times. I eased right off and was then coasting slightly downhill, temperature went down and the oil light went back out. I pulled over (oil pressure flickered again) and shutdown. Checked oil dipstick and oil levels were normal, midway all the way, nothing else unusual, no oil marking, no oil drops, etc. Oil filler cap was clean, no creaming or other issues. Gently opening water, same there, usual level in expansion bottle (halfway), no oil film or anything else. Nothing else unusual at all. I started back up, it laboured a little to start and was chugging somewhat, bit of a knock, revs seeked a little at idle then settled, oil pressure light went off. I drove a bit further, after about 10 minutes, again after a slight incline oil pressure light flickered on, stayed on then went out again, again temperature rose slightly, and started to get a hammer-like noise, directly linked to revs. So I pulled back over and total stop. Again no other signs. Towed it to my parents which is where it's sat now. We've taken the aux and steering pump belts off to eliminate them (Noisy bearings on alternator at the minute). We've just done another injector leak-off test, very little fuel leaked out the injectors so again these seem all OK. No lack of oil, water, mixing or change to fluids at all. Engine can be cranked manually via the pulley and it turns as normal (feeling the pressurisation, release, etc). Starting it up and idling, it starts and runs, again hammer-like noise but not very prominent at idle, increase revs even slightly and you get a prominent hammer/tappety-like noise. No oil warning lights. No engine management/lights (Haven't plugged in analyser yet, nor done key dance yet) Have listened as much as possible to all parts of the engine, top rockers, injectors, bottom end, bell housing, etc, and cannot positively identify location of noise. So now at a loss what to do next, whether worth proceeding as the potential issue from our thinking is loss of oil pressure due to bearings worn, big end, so a serious amount of garage time/effort to diagnose and potentially replace. Opinions and thoughts welcomed as always please folks! Andy

Quick update. Job done, both rear shocks replaced. They are a little smaller in length than originals, so time will tell if they survive, nothing giving me worries so far though. The car does appear to be sitting a little lower at the rear now, not much, you'd probably not notice it but I can (from rear view mirror, my view is off slightly!). This is the rear unloaded, looks to sit a little lower on the arch I think. https://imgur.com/XOcJFSY I did a video on changing the shocks, along with all the part numbers involved for reference (in video description). I'm planning on following it up in around 6 months, see if anything has changed/starting to give me concern, but I doubt it.

OK, there are none that have in-tank pumps/primers, so if yours doesn't have that assembly beside the tank then yes the only primer is the hand primer bulb in the engine bay, so it relies on the system staying pressurised and using the high pressure pump to do the work. When you have trouble with it starting, go and pump the primer, is it hard or soft? If soft then it is fuel leaking back to the tank so you have a small leak/air leak between there and the tank. The housing with the primer is a common issue as the plastic cracks/becomes brittle and will allow a slight leak. To verify, before you start first thing on a morning, go in bonnet and pump primer a good few times to get the primer bulb nice and hard, then try a start. If it starts then you've confirmed the issue. If the primer is hard and pumping does nothing to help it starting, then that's not your issue, issue then must be anywhere north of the high pressure pump (Solenoid, hp rail, injectors, pressure relief valve). All of these are common and some easier to test than others (Pressure relief valve and injector leak off test relatively easy so do those first). plenty posts about it and I've done a whole video covering many of these issues. Good luck and let us know how you get on.

Some diesel models have a lift pump, it's not in-tank but it's beside it. The models/versions all vary quite a bit so it's difficult to identify precisely. Simplest method, go look underneath! If you go just beside driver-side rear door, look underneath towards fuel tank you should identify the fuel filter+lift pump assembly if it has one. It's also in my video for replacing the fuel filter as mine has the rear lift pump:

Thanks both of you. jeepchyrslerparts confirmed what I thought, it's the replacement self-levelling (They can't supply) I've been quoted over 700 for them, apparently they are patented so Mopar distro only available. Urgh! I've also wondered about a press for the garage, and it's mainly been the wife holding me back since my garage subtly keeps getting more and more repair gear in it over time ;-) I might sneak one in eventually if I spot a bargain, but for now other costs are piling up and it's headed towards Xmas at a rather alarming rate. I'm gonna go for the pair of KYB as they're pretty close, managed to get the pair for £100 so going to stick them on and see how it behaves, at least it's not the earth if they fall apart prematurely, but will keep an eye on them and will report back after fitting and initial tests to see how it goes as an alternative. (BTW as an aside, read up on self levelling shock absorbers, rather clever little devices when you stop and think how they work)

Hi folks, After another 1,000mile round trip to Kent and back over the past week I've developed a knocking from the back, taking a look one of the two shock bushes are giving way, and looking at the shock it's not far behind it so I'm replacing both before they totally fail on me. I've been trying to find the right part, so far i've had two parts from eurocarparts and neither are right. The first "compatible" match didn't have eye and eye at either end so useless, no idea why they thought compatible! The next one they sent was the KYB which looked right, slightly smaller diameter and less shaft length than original, but I'm thinking it's close enough. So two things, one if I fit the slightly shorter shaft length am I likely to become unstuck? (Less clearance? Or likely to pull the shock to pieces?) I therefore suspect my model has the self-levelling shocks, the existing ones are Sachs 34534B 04743234AA and from a brief search looks like they're self-levelling. Trying to find replacements are difficult it seems as nowhere coming back with matches/alternatives/etc. So I guess I'm left with two options: Stick with the KYB replacements with shorter shaft length and non-self levelling (See how long they last?) Replace just the bushes and hope the shocks last a bit longer (REALLY not interested in this option tbh) Find somewhere that stocks the self-levelling/equivalent? Any suggests folks pls? Cheers, Andy

Can't say for sure as never changed the same, but I'd say just change it. The system should re-test/reset itself after replacement. That said, I'd remove battery connection whilst changing to avoid any spurious signals/jolts over the CANBUS to be safe.

Hi, Welcome! Hopefully we can help you out here. First a couple of easy ones. ODB2 - Don't bother, they're pointless unless you spend best side of 400+ on them for this car, you'll get nothing other than basic codes which wouldn't give you enough info to investigate. Key dance, do a quick search on the forum, basically switching ignition on and off (not starting) 3 times leaving it at ON the last time, the mile indicator should then start to work through codes stored until it then displays END which is the last code. Good for getting the basic codes out of the system. Onto your problem, since it only happens in reverse I'd be thinking more mechanical than gearbox, electrical, selector, etc. First thing, jack up on side of the rear then spin the wheel forward then in reverse, check it spins/moves freely/about the same in both direction. Then swap sides and do the same again. My guess would be the rear drum parking breaks have either dropped apart or damaged in there and are jamming in reverse, so you really need to check that out first. Probably will need a drum repair/replacement kit (springs, clips, etc) as they're notoriously rubbish on these cars and often fail. I'd say do that and then see what you get first before starting to look at worse case with the transmission, etc.

Sorry, just catching back up on the thread here! I'm still going for water in there. When all the gearshift selector lights come on it's because the TCM (correct, Transmission Control Module!) cannot sense the correct selection of gears, i.e. there is a communications problem between the TCM, gearshift and BCM. So this continues to point me to the same conclusion that you're getting water bridging/causing voltage leakage. Even more so when you confirm the odd electrical behaviour of dimming lights depending on certain circuits being engaged, that always points to water causing a very slight bridge between connectors/circuits and causing voltage leakage, or a different path to ground, and with it being through water the path is weaker than the proper grounding straps/points and so causes the dimming (cannot carry full current). I think I'd be going more along the lines of the connectors rather than the main loom itself, as you say the loom is kinda sealed, or at least each wire in the loom is sealed unless there has been cuts/damage to it I'd suspect this isn't the source of problems. Keep looking all around that area, if you spot a connector, then disconnect it, clean the contacts (Dry the top and bottom of the connectors, remember the top of the connector where the wires enter are usually open/exposed so a good place for a bit of moisture) and reconnect. ALWAYS do this with battery disconnected to ensure you don't disrupt any of the comms whilst the car appears idle, it's busy talking to it's modules! I'm desperately trying to find my photos when I did the flexplate on mine as after replacing it all I left off a connector to the autobox itself (I think it was one of the sensors) and this caused all positions to illuminate, so my thinking is if this sensor has had a wash then it might be giving bad data back. That will probably also be your cause for engine management, it's a transient fault since the management light keeps going out again so it's not one of the "critical" engine functions. Sorry I can't give anything more specific at the moment, but I'm still at the same point, keep checking, cleaning and drying off what you can find down there!

No problem, and yep that looks like the most likely to me, especially the fast indicator symptoms too. I'd say battery disconnected regardless for now, make sure the water can't do any damage! Then perhaps just getting it dried and nice and warm will help. Ideally you want to avoid the water drying in place and causing corrosion of the terminals, connectors, etc, but if all else fails make sure it's all dry.

Quick update. Grounding strap wasn't down there, main one between chassis and engine is left hand side beside timing cover. However, looking down the right side of the radiator and the hose you probably removed I spotted the autobox controller (TCM), so my instinct would be to remove the battery, and then disconnect the main connector into this (It's a large multi-pin connector at the top of it) and check for water. Then check the other wiring looms and connectors beside it as there are a few there doing the same thing. Good luck, and hopefully a bit of warm weather and warmth from the engine it'll probably go away!

Hi there, Firstly, good post, thanks for posting all the info, hopefully will get this figured out for you! I don't think the coolant change was coincidence, I fully suspect you've soaked your PCM for the autobox and/or wiring loom as down by the battery side there are a lot of the main wiring looms along with the BCM and PCM lower down for the auto box (PCM behind the wheel arch if memory serves me correctly). I'm wondering if you've managed to get coolant into either some key sensors/connectors and these are causing the electrical issues. The autobox has a couple of connectors almost directly underneath the water expansion bottle, so first would be to check those two connectors are clean and water-free. Double-speed indicators normally indicate a lack of current draw, so either a poor ground or as you rightly say damaged bulbs, so since we've eliminated bulbs then it would be reasonable to assume damaged ground. Why not grab a quick/dirty ground cable between battery and the terminal block for the indicator bulb to give it a good ground, see if it gets rid of that problem, it would confirm the thinking. It could also be the reason for the power drop/cut out, as my thinking is the sensors for the autobox and crank sensors are getting faulty data, which in turn is causing the ECU to get confused and as fail-safe it cuts the engine. I need to take a look at the tech diagrams, but I think there is an earthing strap right below the expansion bottle, or at least down in that region which again might have been affected when you gave it an early bath! Whilst you're checking, might be worth taking the fusebox out and checking the connectors underneath it, they tend to get lots of dust and debris in there and again a little connector fault like that sounds most likely in your case. I'll go check for the earthing points to see if they're where I remember them!

Glad you've managed to get the airbag light off, good old cleaning the connectors trick! On the P0016, that sounds like potential connector issue, I'm wondering if there is a dodgy ground to the sensor that when it gets warm is causing it as those sensors will get quite a bit of heat which could typically cause them to give mis-readings. Difficult to test for as you'd really need live sensor data from a full-blown code reader whilst driving and kick it above 3.5k RPM to see what the sensor does, my bet? That it gives a mis-reading, the car goes into limp/failure mode and cuts out. So to me, two choices. First is to test the wiring loom to the crank sensor, pins are: https://imgur.com/a/YqpUCpM So make sure you get a good ground and voltage to the ground/voltage pins. You can't really test the signal pin without an oscilloscope though so don't try! After that, I'd go with changing the sensor again, I know you've just changed it but there is a history on here and various places about issues with these sensors especially the cloned ones. I used to have a spare but unfortunately just gave it away to a friend, ask around, somebody might have another one for you to try. That's where I'd be focusing though