andyb2000

Spot on Argee, glad you got sorted. Don't suppose you took a photo of the thermostat before you fitted (and the tweaks you did to it to fit), or still had the link? Would be good to add to the video comments so there are more details/alternatives for others.

Ah ok, in that case it's a little better! (Not a total failure) By the sounds of it, it's the movement motor that's failed and that is the common one inside the chain underneath the floor. Do a couple of searches on the forum and you'll find various notes and info on fixing it, but it should be simply a broken wire inside that plastic chain, which you can re-connect together and get it working again.

Hi Craig, Interesting that it's both doors. If you use the remote/fob is it the same story? Also do you have the power tailgate/boot lift, does that work? From memory they are on a separate fuse, the fusebox lid is labelled so you should be able to find your way around it and check them. Also an obvious one, check the overhead ON/OFF switch for them as they can be disabled by swapping into the OFF position. One last check, if you don't close the door properly, does the motor then pull the door in and clunk/click it into place? I'd be surprised if both door chain feeds have gone, but it's not impossible. It's a common problem, the track you can see in the gap at the base of the floor has a plastic chain, inside that are the power/electrical control wires to the motors and they often will break over time and cause a total failure similar to what you're seeing.

It should also do a little initialise beep when you engage reverse, so I'd guess it's beeper is bust! (It's unusual but not impossible) BTW Factory fit version is a circle with green yellow and red LEDs and the beeper is the middle of the circle. The control for parking assist is in the left rear quarter panel, kinda behind where the jack sits, so it's tricky to get at (You can probably feel it with your hand). I'm planning on taking these panels apart soon (opposite side) as I want to get at the amplifier.

Hi Argee, Yes, i did the video fitting guide on Leedsman's original inline thermostat fit, so let me know if you need any more info. It's an easy job doing the in-line/second thermostat rather than replacing the original. Direct link to the youtube video:

Sounds like a bit of progress, but I'm a little wary of this bit: "They also listened when I mentioned how heavy the smoke was from the cabin heater exhaust so they decided I needed to change the autobox filter and oil" Now, an autobox filter and oil change isn't a bad thing, it will have 0 impact on the cabin heater exhaust smoke, I cannot work out how on earth they think those are related? So don't hold your breath that it will stop the smoke from the cabin heater being heavy. Mine is from time to time, I notice when I've stopped and it's on wind-down, but after adding a second engine thermostat and the car gets up to temperature properly now it's not an issue as the cabin heater isn't on much. (Does your temperature gauge get to 1/2 way, or does it creep around the bottom/quarter? If so then chances are your engine thermostat is stuck open and the engine isn't getting up to temperature).

Hi, I've put a similar post up recently with a driver door that wouldn't lock/unlock but the principle is the same here. And yes I'd look into it first yourself as there are some basic checks you can do. Firstly I'd take the door panel off and look at the servo itself. Use the central locking and whilst it's triggering the other doors try to 'help' this one with your finger, see if you can feel the motor trying at all. If it's trying even a tiny amount then it's just the servo has failed and needs replacing. If it doesn't do a thing and you have a multimeter, put that on DC voltage, 20v and put the probes on the two pins that feed the servo, again try the locks and see if the meter shows a jump in voltage then back to 0. If it jumps then you know you're OK on wiring, etc, and it must be the servo. If you don't get any voltage to it then the original point about wiring being faulty sounds a good bet, and my money would be on the wiring "chain" that you can see when you open the door coiling along the bottom, take that apart and check for damaged cables, they are normally reasonably obvious if they're broken. Hope that helps.

A good point sir, one that comes up often for us UK people. I changed my radiator earlier this year and went round in circles for quite some time trying to find the 'perfect' one, in the end gave up and went with "TRIPLE QX Antifreeze (Blue)" Which was Eurocarparts code 523770501. NOTE: I'm not saying that's the correct one! Just the one I ended up using for my complete (ish) coolant replacement. HOAT I believe isn't available in the UK at all, but I'd really like to know the 'correct' equivalent to use as if so then I'll flush and change mine after winter.

I guess my little bit to this, my Chrysler Grand Voyagers (have now owned two) were the first autos I had ever driven and at first I found it was constantly shifting (or seeking) for a gear when I was pulling away on motorways or at cruising speed, bumping up and down between the top and 2nd to top gear. Over time this calmed down and I read that there are two reasons for this. Firstly not knowing how to 'drive' an automatic, you start to learn their shifting point and will ease off at the right point in the shift to avoid it, no point wasting fuel when it can shift and make things smoother. Secondly most automatics are learning, so they start to learn your shifting habits and adjust their shifts accordingly, I can't categorically remember if the GV's have this or not but it's another reason why over time that should settle down. Hopefully that'll settle down and you'll get used to the automatic. I hate driving my wifes manual gearbox car now, I've become too lazy with my auto! (PS It's generally known as revcounter) Enjoy your GV!

Ah ok. P1685 is a skim key fault code, which some people seem to have pop up from time to time. (No problems starting? If not then it may be a rogue fault code) I'd find out what they're going to do, just to check they don't just clear the light as it may stay off for a week, a month, a year and then return! Glad they're taking it in and getting it looked at, that's good to hear. Do post back after it's been in later this month and let us know what they find and how it goes.

If it doesn't pull the disc in there are a few ways you can check it, as it's quite a common problem with slot loading players (I personally hate slot loaders, they aren't very reliable and also can damage discs, but then that's me!). The first is that it's receiving power, check for any power/activity lights just to make sure it has a power feed and hasn't completely failed. Then the next parts are taking it out (Simple video if you need it of removing the radio I did: https://youtu.be/2EOFTPtBvuo)and opening the casing of the DVD unit up. Normally outer metal/plastic casing will then let you see the metal cage that has the main slot load mechanism. Two key parts you need to look into, the first is the sensor that detects you've pushed the disc in and starts the mechanism. This will be a mini microswitch, normally located at one of the sides of the slot and will have a curved edge so the disc slides past it when the mechanism pulls the disc in. Check that it's not jammed and moves freely, if you have a multimeter check that it's contacts close/open correctly when you push a disc in. Secondly you can check the motor and mechanism. Over time the motor gets weaker and fails, or you find something jamming the mechanism. This one is tricky to do, but ideally, have the unit powered up and gently slide a disc in, as it slides in, help it gently with a screwdriver (Careful, don't get fingers in the way as they like to snap at them!) and if it works and loads then chances are the motor has become weak and needs replacing. If you get no assistance from the motor at all then it's sounding more electrical than mechanical failure. Good luck, and yep take photos of the rear and front of the unit to give us all a clue and we'll try to help further.

Hi, That's very strange. I got mine done at one of the Halfords Autocentres (Not the usual Halfords shops) and they did it for I think around £500 no questions and no problems (They did the water pump too so add another 100 quid on as it's worth doing when it's stripped down). Try some of the larger garages, the small backstreet ones don't like the Grand Voyagers since they're usually too big to go on their lifts and stands easily, but no reason why they can't do the job. Good luck and hope you get sorted. (How many miles are you on BTW?)

Hmm, Fault code: P1635 5 Volt Reference CircuitSo that's nothing to do with the fuel cap, unless anyone else can confirm the code to double-check my lookup? (P1635 also shows up as glow plug relay fault elsewhere I've looked up) So by the sounds of it he just wants to clear the code and move on but it's better to clear it, then see if it comes back, if it does it's worth looking into the fault to resolve it.

No problem, I'd assume they are in the same place in a 2001, they're easy to spot as in a Diesel they're the only things that look like spark plugs with the rubber boots over the top of them! You also don't need to dissassemble to spot them, a torch and looking with your head almost on the top of the radiator into the engine at an angle (behind the power steering bottle if yours has one there, or otherwise just to the right of the alternator). Total time for mine was an afternoon (I've exaggerated, it's not a huge job). Give yourself plenty time like I say in the video, use WD40 and slowly to make sure you don't snap them if they've been in a long time.

Agreed here, need to figure out what the light is on for, so firstly if it was a garage it came from, ring them and get it back to them for diagnostics, you have that right as a new buyer (as bignev says, you actually have similar rights with private sales too). But, you can check codes yourself doing the "Key dance" (See searches on all forums for it) but it's this: So the sequence is ON-OFF-ON-OFF-ON When it works (It takes a few attempts to get right and the timing) your mileage indicator will change and start to scroll through the fault codes it has stored. Have a pen and paper and write them all down (They start with P00 generally) and post back with them to look up.

Hi Paul, We're going to need a little more information to help you out on this one. When you say the car will not start, does that mean it starts eventually? Does it just keep turning over, and is it turning over quickly enough? As first to eliminate would be the battery. Charge the battery right up and see if it helps first. If not, then it might be the glow-plugs, have you ever had them replaced? They help warm the diesel up on a cold morning (How cold are we talking?) so the car starts better. If yours does start eventually and has a bunch of grey smoke when it starts I'd say it's probably glow plugs not working right (Changing them isn't too bad, I did a video on it if it's useful to you to try https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2vtGGp4Jqp8 ). Other things, mine is a 2005 and does occasionally have a tough start, on a cold morning it'll start then cut out almost immediately. I'm suspecting either injectors or leaking return valve but not 100% sure on this one yet. Second crank and it's fine.

I think the washer fluid on alternator isn't really affecting you here, that happens and engine compartments are able to withstand a little water and splashes now and again, at worst it'll cause a slight slip on the belt but nothing major. As the others have said, it sounds likely to be related to the BCM (Body Control Module), it's located in front of the battery on my 2004/5 model so probably in a similar place on yours, check connectors for corrosion, also the posts onto the battery, any furring or green looking? That's the easy ones. Next onto the immobiliser and keyfob, like Andrips says it does sound exactly like the immobiliser locking the system out (Although that doesn't explain the car running without the dash working). So it's down to one of two areas, either the dash cluster being faulty, as if that doesn't communicate with the BCM that will cause a shutdown/non-respond of the car or the BCM not talking to your encoded key properly. Do you have another key/keyfob? If you do, use that one and see if you get any different behaviour. Perhaps erase the memory settings for the keyfob (On mine I have a 1, 2 set button on the driver door, this is to code seat positions, mirror positions, etc. I've had this get corrupted data stored in it in the past, so following the manual and re-programming this user data to your key/fob might be worth trying) I'm not hopeful it'll be something simple though I'm afraid, as there doesn't seem to be a correlation between failure and bumpy driving, etc, that you've mentioned so wiring connectors being loose, etc, I think are out of the picture. Good luck and let us know what you find looking into the above and what the others have said, electrical problems like this are tricky to track down, and yes I'd avoid dealerships/garages for the moment until you exhaust all your own diagnostics as they'll charge you a lot to diagnose and probably not solve it quickly.

I think I'd be back at that garage asking for some answers. Was it a dealership? As I *think* there is a control code that can be set on the ECU to disable this, so I'm wondering if they either did a software update that's not accepted the codes properly, or they sent a code to it to shut it up. Either way, hard to see it's anything other than that, as to be honest I'd not know where to start looking for the little sounder that generates that noise as I don't think it comes through the speaker system in the car (and via the amplifier, etc) which makes me think it's a speaker inside the dashboard (It'll also be a speaker and tone generator as it's a generated 'bong' not a raw sounder derived 'bleep' or similar), so the other thing is they found this and disconnected the connector. (I'm off to search manuals now to see where it is and where it's connected as I'm intrigued!)

I reckon there is an isolator circuit has been put in place somewhere along the line on your unit as bignev suspects, so that the key barrel is the master on/off switch for almost all of the car electronics. The thing is, do you want to fix it, or live with it? Personally I'd want to fix it! BUT if you fix it, you might re-introduce flat battery problems when you leave the car overnight or a couple of days as a lot of these have drain issues where the ECU and related electronics drain so much from the idle battery it struggles to start at next crank. To work it back, I'd start to look for some chunky wires going from the battery terminal into the driver side of the interior. Some photos of the battery and the isolation unit you found would be handy. See, disconnecting the isolator is doing exactly what it's supposed to do! Isolate the power, so you want to find the other wire, at the far end of the isolator and see where it goes. Chances are it's a direct feed through it and you can bypass it. WARNING: Pay attention to polarity and the connections, ideally send us some photos of the battery, isolator and anything you think is relevant as we don't want you to short anything out and cause more of a headache for yourself. (PS, If you're in the UK, where abouts as there might be a kind individual around that can take a quick look for you, if you're North-East I'd be more than happy to have a look under and see what I can find for you)

That is really odd, to me it sounds like the keyswitch is totally isolating the ECU and other electronics. Does anything else work when the key is out, radio, interior lights? Also when you've stopped driving, and turn the key off, does the radio stay on until you open the driver door (or a minute or two I think it is) or does everything go off the moment you turn the key off? And has it always done that? My suspicion if it has always done it is somebody has installed a battery isolator and hooked it up to the ignition switch to avoid power drain (which is common). If it's only recently happened then that gets more complicated as it could be related to the ECU/BCM or related electronic controls and will be a pain to diagnose!

Hi Daz, This is quite a complex question actually! These things have a temperature sensor right below the battery (when you take battery out you'll see a round plastic fitting, that's the battery temperature sensor, and underneath it is a twin-core wire going to the wiring harness) which senses the temperature. It will vary the output of the charge circuitry depending on what temperature the battery and ambient is at, the idea is to prolong the life of the battery. Various people (myself included) did a lot of tinkering with this to test what voltages it changes to. If the sensor is a little faulty or it was warm when you tested it may just have been reducing the voltage itself. If it's like that on a cold morning at first start it may be the alternator starting to dip a little. Over on that other forum (which most of us also inhabit!) search for ButtonMod by Leedsman for more info from various people on it.

I'm not an expert here but this sounds like the automatic transmission solenoid perhaps needing replacement. Do a search on here and the other chrysler GV forums as you'll find when these things get stuck in the physical gears and won't shift into the others it's down to the solenoids needing replaced. Also are you getting any fault codes?

To be honest, I've owned two 2.8CRDiesels and neither of them had these undertrays as they seem to be the first thing damaged and not bothered to be replaced. Never found a need/issue with not having one.

Hi Deano1324, Most commonly this is because the brakes are sticking on, causing them to get hot (by friction) and this is dissipated through the allow wheels. Have you just had brake pads or discs changed by any chance? If so you might have a caliper starting to stick on, or the pads are binding. A bit of copper slip on the sliding components on the pads, and a replacement/refurb on your caliper should do the job. Hope that helps!

This is actually a pretty complex question, so we might need some more information. Firstly, when you say signal is bad, in what way and what frequencies. FM, MW ? Is it all radio stations with poor reception, or just ones in particular frequencies (e.g. above 100Mhz on FM?). The reason for this is that certain frequency bands have different characteristics and the higher Mhz sections are often more prone to interference (and in the UK that's why they're mainly used for Community or local radio, the big players all use frequencies lower in the range as they have better penetration power throughout the country) What model radio and year of vehicle, I'm going to assume RB3 model (It's usually on the front somewhere, but the year and model will help identify) It may be the connector at the back has slipped. If so, remove the surrounding panels (I'm working on some youtube videos for these steps so have a look at my channel shortly), unscrew the radio and slide it out, check the corner connector and you might see the problem, the connector isn't that great to be honest and if it's worked loose it'll drop your signal. The other part, is the antenna is actually the coil on the rear right hand side window/vent. Check the cable going to it and make sure it's not been damaged or the window/glass damaged in any way, a break in that will cause it to fail pretty badly. The final part would then be the wiring between the antenna in the window and the front unit. This would be difficult to test out, first steps would be continuity tests between the exposed contacts.