andyb2000

Hi Keith, I'm going to guess this is an automatic, in which case this is normal, the revs are limited when you're not in gear. Same on all of them (Not sure if this is common on auto boxes or not, these have been the only auto's I've ever owned).

That sounds like either the immobiliser and chip-in-key not working properly or the ignition keyswitch failing. As you say no signs of life, no dashboard lights come on or anything at all? If so then I think the next steps would be to find which part of it is causing problems. Do you have a second key, if so try that and see if it makes any difference. Then it would be time to look at the lock barrel which is more involved (taking apart the lower steering wheel column and locating the wiring, as my next thoughts would be to test the switch/barrel connections).

The paint code should start with a P so for mine it's PXR (Which is the Brilliant Black Crystal) which is also know as AXR. Mine is attached, if you look at the highlighted part that shows my code of "PXR" and you can also check it on this site http://paintref.com/cgi-bin/colorcodedisplay.cgi?code=PXR&manuf=Chrysler&rows=50 Hope that helps you check and find the right one!

Hi there, Not sure if the 2006 is the same as my 2005 2.8CRD but I've done a youtube video on changing the filter on mine (It's underneath by the fuel tank) so take a look and see if it matches: https://www.youtube.com/andybrown2000 DO NOT blindly trust euro's car part identification, if you put your reg in it'll actually show both fuel filters, the can type (like an oil filter) and also the thin/flat filter itself which is the one by the tank (in the pump assembly) so physically check yours first to make sure you get the right one.

The two lighter sockets at the front, one is battery connected so constant power (picture of battery on the cover) and the other is key/ignition switched (Picture of key on cover if memory serves me right). However, if BOTH are constant power, then the fuse in the fusebox has been switched to the constantly on position (It's a 3-position fuse to allow this change) so if you find both fronts are constantly on then have a look at your fusebox for that fuse.

Hi Craig, Need a bit more info when posting, so the year, model, etc. But, on mine (2005 2.8CRD UK) the paint colour code was under the bonnet, to the left on the suspension support (beside the airbox) stamped into the metal, so was quite difficult to read, but experiment with different light sources and the camera on your phone and you'll get the colour code to match up. (I used a chipex colour repair kit previously and that got a perfect match using those colour codes)

Hi there, Hmm, now I'd initially suggest this was the heater matrix leaking as that's the place for it (UK I'm assuming obviously!), so take a look and try to find exactly where the leak is. As you say it's clean and cold, I'm assuming you do have correct coolant in and that's not just water? (Check expansion bottle to double check your thinking/working!) Inside, underneath the dash on passenger side look for the cover for your cabin air filter. If it's factory it'll be opaque white plastic about the size of a letterbox. Unclip that and take a look, if water pours out then take the filter out and try to locate the leak. That would be the heater matrix though. I'm unsure if water could get in from the air intakes just below the wiper tray, perhaps check there for any blockages too (Easy to take off that top grill, about 5 or 6 hex screws hold it on, so worth a quick look).

I think battery would be a good place to look, do you get 'dash sweep' when you first turn the ignition on too? If you have a multimeter check what voltage the battery reads without anything on, then turn on the lights and blowers (high loads) and see what voltage you see. A good battery shouldn't vary too much under high loads, but a battery that is on it's way out will start to drop voltage quickly. The 2-3 flashes of indicators to me sounds like immobiliser triggered though, as that's the normal de-activate flash they give. When you get in (before key in) is the red LED on the dashboard lit up/flashing? (If yours has it, it's behind the steering wheel sticking through the plastic, so it's a very obvious red LED). Normally this only lights up after I've done work on mine and had the battery disconnected. At first ignition back on it flashes the lights and the LED goes off, so 'disabling' the immobiliser and recognising things are happy again. Low voltage may be causing this to trigger repeatedly. Give the voltage tests a go and see how you get on before buying a new battery, remember there are lots of posts about batteries on here and the .com forum, they are a common weak point especially if you don't buy the right one!

Did the job for me perfectly as I had the same issue!

Hi, Yes with the temperatures getting colder it's staying on a lot longer, on my morning run in this morning (2oC) it didn't cut out at all, temperature was just under half way mark and I had climate control set to 22oC. You could add the 'winterise' kit to the front, i.e. blocking part of the radiator up, as these engines are cold runners and by blocking part of the radiator front it helps retain the warmth. I've just done that to mine using QinteQ's technique of using pipe insulation (the foam stuff in long tubes). Just cut it to size and push it into the gaps, it looks decent and helps it get to temperature faster. Having said that, it should still be getting warm after a short drive with aux heater on, I get 'delay' on mine for approx 3 minutes on a very cold morning, when it turns on the temp gauge has moved to just around the first mark and warm air starts to come out the blowers so it starts warming at that point.

Hi there, This is indeed a tricky question, as I've had two GV's and I believe one had infinity and one did not. Both were 2004/205 2.8CRD LTD. My current one is the CRD LTD XS AUTO 2.8 RG-Body, 4th generation, Bosch ECU so not sure how that compares with the 2001 edition. I've not yet found a definitive way of testing for infinity, I suspect my current one has infinity as doing a direct change of the head unit wouldn't be possible as feeding 'regular' audio into the ISO connector results in no audio. I'm assuming this is to fit an aftermarked head unit? See some other recent posts in the forums, but I'd love to have a definitive test if somebody knows of one (Without pulling apart the rear quarter of the interior to look for the amplifier and identify it with part codes).

The 2.8CRD engine (I've had two now, both 2004/2005 models) has a distinctive noise to it, to the point where my kids now know when I'm outside or in a car park as they recognise the noise of the engine, so just bear in mind it's got a different 'noise' to other CRD engines. Couple of bits to watch for from my experience in addition to gordys hints: check horn, the clockspring when it fails will cause airbag and cruise controls to intermittently fail (not an expensive fix, but a pain as it's MOT fail) starting - does it start from cold without accelerator 'blip', and after running warm does it start first time? (Could indicate injectors, fuel filter, etc) Does the engine temperature warm up after a short drive or does it sit at 0 on the gauge? This indicates thermostat stuck open (these engines are very cold runners) and will either need thermostat replaced (BIG job due to time consuming) or the additional thermostat mod. Radio and all speakers working? If not this can be pain as the audio system is relatively complex using the ECU for power and amplifier control. All in, I love the cars despite my first one getting a crack in the block (Bad maintenance from a backstreet garage I suspect on the oil cooler) and got a second one, learnt to do basic maintenance jobs and bits and pieces to keep it happy. I love driving them as find them a pleasure to drive and use daily. Regards, Andy

Hi there, I changed the filter on my 2005 2.8CRD last weekend, mine is the filter underneath by the tank. After doing the work I did similar to gordy. I just opened the valve under the filter housing and ran the key on and off to get the pump primed up. (It took a while, 20 key on/off's) It then started up, stuttered once and then has been fine since, so didn't really need to bleed it or anything. I'd say yes, hand pump you fitted should go hard after pump has ran it's initial 10-15 second start up as that point is where it should have pressurised the whole line up to the common-rail injector line. (I'm not a mechanical expert, this is from observations!) I'd suspect if you're hearing/getting air in the line I'd be suspecting a cracked pump housing (It's slightly brittle plastic) and it's sucking air in down by the tank which could be causing your problems. Check if yours has the filter on the underneath by the tank and start from there, as air getting in back there will cause all sorts of problems. (Video probably going online at the weekend on changing the fuel filter on the rear edition of mine if you want to look/get any info). Regards, Andy

Hi Adel, Yes it's a belt (What year car?), I had mine changed around the 105,000 mark as had no previous owner history. When you get the belt done, get the water pump too since it's a difficult/time consuming job and whilst you've got it in for the belt it's worth that being done too. Total was around the £600 here in the UK but I know others have had it done cheaper (Mine was at a garage group, not independent)

Also, I've played about with the sound system on several GV's now and a few odd things crop up in relation to the amplifier and the audio sent to the amp. Before doing ANYTHING I'd check you don't have the complicated version that I have in mine (See my various blog posts and forum posts on it, my website is in my sig), so take an audio source (portable mp3 player with headphone out lead cut so you have the bare wires) and try to feed audio into the correct speaker wires in the back of your stereo (A sacrificial ISO wiring tool is handy here to cut apart) to make sure that you can: 1) power the amp separate to having the radio installed 2) Ensure you can feed audio into the speaker/amp wires and actually have sound come out of the speakers. I'd do the above before starting to mod the facia and do all of that work! I suspect though if you have one of the more complex models (like mine) you'll need to locate the amp (rear panel, in line with the rear row of bench seats) and either bypass it or put an alternative in. That's my plan but unfortunately not until next year and the weather is warmer to be outside pulling apart the interior panels of the car! Good luck, and remember to take photos and notes and post back as it's always appreciated others giving pointers/help. Andy

The bulbs in the facia at the top of the radio (Heated seats, rear wiper, etc) are not intended to be replaceable! (Great idea Chrysler) as they're standard filament bulbs but soldered directly onto the PCB. It is do-able as I've done it to mine and a couple of others now, basic procedure is: Take panels apart to get at them (I've done videos if you need help on taking the radio panels out, etc, have a look at my website/youtube) You can then take the entire switch module out of the panel, so you can work on it inside. The next bit BE CAREFUL, there are springs for the switches so do it somewhere you've got good light and can watch if a spring flies off! Prise the back panel off (You'll see screwdriver holes to push in and twist to unclip each of the clip points) and it'll come off. You'll then see the circuit board and the bulbs. You'll need to unsolder each one. I then used a bunch of new white or green LEDs to replace them with, try to get ones with integral resistor (so they're 12v supply). Now the tricky bit. LEDs care about positive and negative, so you need to test which of the solder points are positive and which are negative, so carry it back to the GV, plug it in and switch on. Use a meter to then test which one is positive and which is negative, so you know how to solder the LEDs on. Oh also, you need pretty slim LEDs. I found the small square ones worked best. Solder them on, put back together and enjoy illuminated buttons once again! BTW: if yours didn't have illuminated headlight/light controls I suspect you'd be able to use the above technique to retro-fit them to a non-illuminated panel, and as bignev says fine the right wiring connection to 'borrow' power for them. Good luck and feel free to get in touch if you need any more help. Regards, Andy

Hi Berkswolf, Yeah, it happened on me on my 04/05 2.8CRD, same thing pretty sudden (I was thrashing about the Yorkshire Dales though, on 20% gradients on hills, etc, on holiday at the time!) As usual, I did a DIY, and posted it to my blog so have a read: http://www.thebmwz3.co.uk/2016/09/top-suspension-mount-replacement.html The main things are to have some spring compressors (two sets I found were safest) and a tool that can reach down into the top mount bracket hole to tighten the new one in place. Parts, I ordered from eurocarparts as usual as pricing and spot on part. It's a tough job, I tacked it with my dad and luckily had things like cutting tools and other bits as you'll see we had trouble getting the large bolts off, which in the end we had to cut off and source replacements (Couldn't get like for like, so added similar) Good luck and as always post back. Cheers, Andy

Hi Mike, Just a little word of warning, I've owned two GV's, both apparently 2004/2005 models with the same amp and infinity sound system, RB3 head unit, however they were both very different when it came to the speaker outputs from the RB3. As per my website investigation/link the signals appear to be digitally encoded onto the 'speaker' outputs from the RB3. (I'm planning next summer to spend some time on this, and use my oscilloscope to interrogate the output from the RB3 speaker wires) All I'm saying is, don't assume that all models are the same, there are clearly very subtle differences as I found between the years (1 year difference in the ones I've owned!) and in some cases you can't just splice into the speaker wires as it just won't work.

Hi there, This has been discussed countless times so do a few searches and you'll find its due to a faulty thermostat jammed open. You can either replace it (expensive and very difficult) or do the mod of a second thermostat in line, which I've done a video howto on it. Good luck.

Hi, My website moved, so that url is now http://www.thebmwz3.co.uk/2015/05/chrysler-grand-voyager-sound-system.html But the problem still persists, I never solved it and used the technique Stevec0268 mentioned, I installed a separate speaker as haven't yet managed to tap into the voyager sound system. Probably not until next summer now, but my plan is to remove the rear quarter to expose the amplifier and start to probe and test the wiring harness from it to the head unit to determine what is going on.

Hi, Unfortunately I don't have specifics on the resistance, I'll check mine out when I get a moment (I have the 2005 2.8CRD) but 0.7 sounds awfully low. There are two types of injector, high and low impedance, the low ones should be around 2.5-3.5ohms and high should be around 12ohms. So either way your measurements seem very low. Will try and get mine tested asap and reply back for comparison.

--EDIT-- Apologies, I had written the reply and realised you did a full battery pull for 30 minutes, which should have done the same, in which case it doesn't sound hopeful for the radio I'm afraid. Not sure what else you can try, does it even light up/show and signs of life when you reconnected the battery? Hi Mike, Firstly, I'm a little puzzled as I thought the 2006 voyager had a newer radio in it than the RB3, so just to check it's this one: http://a0.amlimg.com/ZjBlOGQyNGNmYzYwMDljMjViN2VmNjAxZjk2NzQ5ZjL4DBEDXDP_iHq8Q5Mlj_dLaHR0cDovL21lZGlhLmFkc2ltZy5jb20vYzU2ZmI1M2FhMmQyNWI5OTUyYmE2NGU2MmQwZDU5ODIwNzMyYzkwNzg1Yjg2YzUzNjUxYzgwYjFjNmVlMzEyZS5qcGd8fHx8fHw3MDB4NDY2fGh0dHA6Ly93d3cuYWR2ZXJ0cy5pZS9zdGF0aWMvaS93YXRlcm1hcmsucG5nfHx8.jpg And the disc was a navigation CD? (BTW: The navigation is pointless as it's so out of date! So I'd not worry about bothering with it!) So, what it sounds like is it's crashed, hopefully not corrupting the firmware in the process. I'd go with a total clear of it, so go under the bonnet, right hand side into the fusebox and pull the fuse marked IOD (Close to you as you face the car from front) and also the fuse marked "RDO/IP IGN 20 amp". These will kill power to it without having to remove the radio, and leave it for 5-10 minutes. Afterwards connect back up and ignition on and see what you get, if you're lucky it'll power back up. Otherwise it may have damaged it in some way (Highly unlikely). Good luck and remember to post back and let us know how you get on.

Agreed with QinteQ, if you EVER get to half way on the temperature gauge then it's not the thermostat failed open! So it's just the cold taking time to warm that beast of a cold engine block. I copied QinteQ and did the air dam with the pipe lagging from DIY shops and it makes a nice difference so should help you out, even easier than the thermostat mod!

Hi Andrips, I changed the radiator on mine a while back (Videos on my youtube channel as usual) and yes I did a few flushes with water, but the trouble is you can't get a full drain/flush because of the aux heater and other parts, so I just flushed through the inlet/outlets I could whilst radiator was off (top and bottom hoses). Just looking back I bought two 5ltr bottles of antifreeze too and I only ended up using one and a bit bottles, showing it was nowhere near a full flush (even with an empty radiator, header and flush through the block)

Spot on Argee, thanks for the extra info, always good to have a few options and tips for it. Actually I just realised the one you got was the one I ordered originally by mistake! So I had one sat in the garage. If anyone wants it I'll pop it in the post for them. Berkswolf, info should be in the description of the video, but it was: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Thermostat-Renault-5-19-21-25-Clio-Espace-Twingo-Trafic-1-2-1-4-2-0-2-2-/291274512916?hash=item43d1505a14 and I believe the OEM part number was 7700727190.