andyb2000

Hi Richard, Welcome! Others will probably stop by and help, hopefully my memory of these beasts will help, sadly I no longer have my own. So this is one that has cropped up from time to time quite often. It's also a problem I had on my old CGV (The second one I owned). Same thing, it's a warm start problem and it's very repeatable as you describe. My suspicion though is it was mechanical. When hot there is expansion in most components, and in my thinking it's down to poor compression why it won't start. It just turns over and over, it occasionally tries to catch but then dies (If you listen carefully to the engine you can hear it almost catch then immediately fail and back to starter motor just spinning the engine). If I still had mine I'd be starting to look at the cylinder head gasket or even cylinder rings getting worn and loosing compression when hot. Once engine is running it sort of self-heals as it's not as noticeable but when starting that's when you need it most. BUT after all that, sensors also deteriorate when hot so your thinking of swapping sensors is logical. My first thoughts would be the PRV on end of the diesel rail, the crank and speed sensors too, one by one is sensible here. All of those can affect the startup and are also sensors very prone to temperature related failures. On the radio/CD you should be fine fitting. You'll need the code from the old one though. The codes are normally stored in the ECU and 'pair' when they connect up, fitting a different unit I suspect will trigger the need to enter the code, which if you don't have the original manual/code doc for the donor car might not work, but I'd say give it a go. I recall that relay you mention but cannot for the life of me remember it's function. I'll see if I can find out! Cheers, Andy

Injector sounds a good shout to me, especially if you have a stored code for it. No these ones aren't needing coded into the ECU just match same type and away you go. Hopefully that's the problem :-)

@@Daz264 oh the dreaded cut-out issues on these VM Motori 2.8crd engines :-( It's a pain, there are so many possibilities of what the fault is. I even did a youtube video on it years ago when I still had my CGV's which might give you some pointers: https://youtu.be/ucfZfV1cNng Good luck. I know you're looking at crank/cam sensors which are sensible places also, although normally they would also cause problems starting, sometimes warm sometimes cold, do you get that or will it start each time? The main one seems to be the fuel filter case cracking slightly and allowing air to be sucked into the fuel line causing it to stutter and cut out (Metal rattle is just a consequence not a cause in this case, it's the engine being starved of fuel and juddering to a halt). Good luck!

@@Sentech There are actually two locations for the 2.8CRD (and 2.5CRD) fuel filter on 4th gen. On every 2004/2005 model I've owned they are underneath to the rear by the fuel tank. None in the engine bay, but I've worked on ones with the filter (with the small rubber manual primer on the top) in the engine bay as you describe also. There seemed to be several variations on the design and so you need to physically check as I've yet to find a way of finding which edition matches which location for fuel filter and lift pump!

Two options as you rightly say. You can bypass it, just simply join the pipes together as far back as you can, a bit of copper pipe works well to join them. If you bypass also take out the fuse for the webasto to stop it powering up (however it will detect no coolant and just switch back off). Personally, I'd try to keep it running as it makes a huge difference in colder weather. Again replace it with copper pipe where it's gone rotten and just cut that piece out and join. Not too bad a job, but it's been a long time since I've owned one and done this job so no photos unfortunately.

Hiya Daz, So this is a really common problem, I've posted countless times about it and the IOD fuse pull. My first CGV did this repeatedly, but my second did not. The thing that was different was my first had it's locks removed from the sliding doors as it was used as a taxi in it's early life so I'd guess they re-wired the locks. The fuse blowing I suspected was due to the locking solenoid drawing too much current which would be caused by the mechanism starting to cease up or the solenoid going bad. Unfortunately that means it's going to be a discovery process to eliminate. To me only option is to take the door card out of each door in turn (sliding doors to start with I'd say as I'd expect most likely to be the issue) and disconnect the locking solenoid. Then close the doors and cycle the locks a few times to get it to pop the fuse or see if the system stops working and needs the IOD reset. When it stops doing that, I'd say you've located the faulty solenoid that either you can grease up and free the mechanism or look to replace the locking solenoid. Hope that helps, Andy

Hi there, I've done quite a bit on replacement head units and the wiring used and unfortunately there are a LOT of variations out there. I've worked on a few (2 of my own) and found them to be the same spec car but different wiring to the radio so I've still yet to find a correct 100% way of knowing. All I can suggest is you read a couple of posts I put a few years ago on my website that covered this and see if it gives you any tips as unfortunately I don't own a CGV any more so can't nip outside and find you the power supply wire you need! http://www.thebmwz3.co.uk/2015/05/chrysler-grand-voyager-sound-system.html and http://www.thebmwz3.co.uk/2017/12/chrysler-audio-system-amplifier-and.html Good luck!

Hiya Daz, Yes this is quite a common one, only a problem with the diesel editions it seems and it's down to the fuel heater that can overheat, melt the plastic and cause air to seep in causing it to cut out. My videos are all at: https://www.youtube.com/c/AndyBrown2000/videos The video I think you refer to is this general one about what to look for: https://youtu.be/ucfZfV1cNng And the fuel filter replacement video - which is for fuel filters at the tank: https://youtu.be/GF3lTJhEomo Hope these help, the problem could be one of a few things so you'd need to work through them logically. Regards, Andy

Hi Roy, Sounding progress at least. So it's spinning over happily which is good news, did it even splutter or are you suspecting it is immobiliser not allowing the engine to fire? Does your car have the small red led on the steering column? If so, when keys are out does it flash then when keys are in/ignition on it stops flashing? That's normally a good sign the immobiliser is being de-activated which is first port of call. Secondly, did you try cranking a while or just quick blip and stop. I'd try to prime fuel a little first. If yours has the tank lift pump, to prime turn ignition to on (not start) wait a minute then back off. Do this 3 or 4 times, that will let the electric prime pump make sure fuel is fed all the way. Then try a start, see what you get. Even a cough/splutter will tell us things are trying. Unfortunately the right diagnostics are scarce and expensive so tricky to find. I'd agree though, you need a deep code read to see what's going on there. All the best, Andy

Sorry been MIA this week, hectic! To me I'd not worry too much over the brand, etc. Original would probably have been Denso but looking it's a 160Amp so I think at this stage I'd go for any compatible. There appeared to be three OEM numbers for these (2.5 and 2.8CRD): 04868429AB04868429AC04868429AD All the best, hopefully this is the bit to get you up and running.

Hi Roy, I really feel for you, tough time but hopefully light at the end of the tunnel for the GV and your Daughter, we wish her all the best. For the GV, did they confirm that the ECU was hit with a spike (suspected, I know they can't be 100% sure). If so then there is really only one culprit. The alternator with it's built-in diode pack. On these the alternator+diode pack is all of the voltage smoothing, the regulation takes place by the ECU so now that's been refurbed that removes that part. I think based on the price, etc, you've paid I'd be buying a new alternator and fitting it, regardless. Testing the alternator out would involve running the car with new ECU in place, etc, and could potentially put the ECU back at risk (NEVER run the car without a battery connected. Some people incorrectly think by disconnecting battery whilst car running you can then test voltage spikes. Unfortunately the battery provides a bit of stabilisation/sink voltage so what happens when you remove that, the ECU and whole electrical system will have to 'absorb' the voltage spikes = fried electricals) Cost of an alternator? £120-£150 if I recall correctly. So to me, I think I'd be buying an alternator and fitting it. I honestly can't think of anything else that would cause a fried ECU unless the wiring harness is totally toasted. Fingers crossed for you Roy.

Hi, Yes polarity matters for LED so best to use a multimeter to test them first to get it the right way round. It's a bit old now but I did a post on my website about LED replacements: http://www.thebmwz3.co.uk/2018/02/chrysler-dash-bulb-replacements.html It might help you a little.

Hi @@oldginger very sad to hear and our hearts are with you, very difficult times indeed. Please take care of yourself in this time. On your GV, I also haven't heard of the air con causing ECU problems, BUT I do know the alternator has an integrated rectifier circuit (first stage diode pack I believe) and I know these go faulty and cause voltage spikes on the eletrical system which of course is bad news. Did your mechanic check the voltages at battery for ripple, etc. as I think that's the route I'd be going down especially after paying out for the repair to your ECU. I'm trying to recall the simpler way of testing this, from memory it's setting your multimeter to AC and putting it on the battery terminals, that way you can see if there are any AC spikes being sent by a faulty diode pack/non rectified voltage which is reaching the rest of the electrical system. By the way, it's always worth saying, NEVER run the car with battery disconnected, it's crucial to help smooth the spikes out whilst running as that would cause an ECU fry.

Hi there, So P1776 is relating to the auto-gearbox, and P1776 specifically is a solenoid error. See: http://www.allpar.com/fix/computer-codes.html Chances are it's the solenoid pack needs replacing, or as a first shot have you changed the auto gearbox fluid recently or ever, as it's worth changing the fluid first to see if it helps. (Please remember to search forums! This has been answered lots of times)

Hi there, Welcome! So, first off unfortunately I think I'm going to 'call' on the garage and say they didn't check properly. The thermostat is down the back of the engine about half-way down the block and VERY difficult to get to on 2005/2006 era, so them checking it and seeing it was new I'm a little dubious of. Anyway, did they run a coolant system pressure check, check the water pump output pressure or just check for no leaks? To me it sounds like a blockage, and typically that's the radiator on these as over the years they get blocked/partially blocked and don't do their job, slow down coolant flow, etc. Like you say, the filler cap being cool is suspicious, so where/how did it dump it's coolant? If it didn't foam out of the fillter cap it's gone somewhere, which makes me worry did it dump it in the cylinders (i.e. it's overheated too far and the head gasket has gone). First (easy) job for you at home is full coolant flush, get it flushed through the hoses and see how you get on. Then I think I'd go for a compression test to see if the head gasket is the problem. Thermostat could be stuck closed or almost closed but that's fairly unlikely, they tend to fail fully open. Good luck and let us know what you check, and ask the garage you took it to, what exactly did they do to verify the pump was working, etc. Did they pressure test the coolant system?