Ben2802

I’ve recently replaced the front strut. Firstly I got one from eBay for £10 and then £15 postage. Ideal I thought. Took the old assembly out and compressed the spring but the nut tonkerpnthe top hat on was seized. As it had been rattling around for months before I decided to do anything about it I looked at carparts4less and even with my mate who works for them the cheapest for a strut and a bearing was £130. Looked online for parts and found rockauto in the US. New strut, spring and bearing all fully assembled was £100. If I had payed the import duty when I payed for the assembly then I would have saved my self £12. Took 2 weeks as I wasn’t in a rush so paid for economy delivery. Took 25 minutes to fit. Didn’t remove the wipers or scuttle panel like I did the first time around. As I knew where all the bolts were. Even with delivery and import charges most of the stuff on there works out cheaper than here. A new alternator is £160 all in and the cheapest I can find here is close on £250.

Big nev, that’s what I thought about getting the wires from the roof button. Still not looked into it properly but still fancy the PIR sensor as that solves the issue of having no hands free. Just move my foot under the bumper. Works do tomorrow, with free beer, so might investigate it more on Sunday while I recover. Might be an American version I can find seeing as they don’t like to move their bodies more than they need to. Never thought about swapping the cables round but will look into that as well. Thanks for all your insights.

Has any one ever thought or done a button for shutting the boot? Getting the shopping out of the car tonight, wife had gone on inside already, fully laden with bags the keys were in my pocket and couldn’t get them out and wished there was a button to shut it. Or maybe a PIR sensor to wave my foot at to shut it. Probably won’t do it without some kind of guide as not to hot with doing electrics. Still trying to get the door working electrically. Done the wires in the track and couldn’t find a break. Would a button or motion sensor be possible considering the all the electics. Like I said. Just a thought.

There are a few on eBay. Ukchryslerspares, ukchryslerspares1, jeepchryslerparts and Jeep-Chrysler—parts-uk. Never had problems off them so far. They all have numbers to ring as well if you need any help. They go by your chassis number rather than the reg so the parts they send are bang on as there are so many options even on the same model.

I agree that the fans shouldn’t come until there isn’t enough air passing the rad. Don’t think it’s the water pump as it would be an issue all the time. I usually start the engine 5/10 minutes before I leave for work just so everything has a chance to warm up a little as I’m only a couple off minutes off the motorway with a steep hill to start the trip to work. I’ll have search for post about flushing the rad and probably do that. Thanks for the reply.

Hi all. Couple of issue with the gv but the most concerning and expensive one is overheating. Took the car on holiday towing a caravan last year and every time we went up a slope it would start to get hot on the flat was fine. Eventually made it to site and all was fine during the 2 weeks and going up hills wasn’t an issue so I assumed the overheating was due to the extra strain pulling the van. I decided to ‘ breakdown’ and get recovered home instead of doing anymore damage to the car fast forward today and I’m taking my daughter and 5 others to there football match, half the team, and going along the motorway at 70 and the temp starts going up again, windows open heater on full and drop the speed to 65 and it starts to cool down. I do have a new rad in the shed that I was planning on changing tomorrow as I’ve notice a small leak in it and not a fan of rad weld. I’ve never heard the fans kick in so plan on testing them while I have them out. When I turned up on holiday last year the chap that greeted us said he heard the fans working but until I see them working myself I won’t be 100%. Any comments would be great as I have the return trip to do.

It would be nice, I’m on my second gv now and the resister was the easiest fix. This weekend after a tip run I’ll mainly be trying to get the sump plug out after someone has stripped the shape out when tightening it up last time. And putting a helicoil in the rear calliper mounting as it’s stripped out as well through lack of maintenance. Wish people would do work properly instead of doing a bodge.

What does the heater do? Does it just stay on one speed? Resistor is the cause. If it is an intermittent problem as in sometimes works properly and can choose the speed or. sometimes don’t then I would suggest it wiring somewhere.

Got the same issue with my cables as well, the cable is still there though although there's no barrel to attach it back to the fulcrum. I assume that it was broken off because the rear shoes were non existent and the moving price of metal that moved the shoes is completely seized at the minute. I have noticed that on the pictures above that there's some kind of tensioner before it disappears into the floor. Not got one of them and looks like here never had been. I hope the people that signed off the design of the shoes got sacked. Both sides are one big lump of rusty parts. Looks like it hasn't been serviced since it left the factory.

If you're getting the clicking then the solenoid is fine so should be starting. It's more likely to be battery even though it seems to hold a charge. If the lights dimmed then there is power going to the starter. What was the reading on the battery? It should be somewhere between 13.4 and 13.8 volts. Anything below 13.4 and the battery needs to be replaced or have a full recharge cycle that cleans the plates inside. If the car has only done short trips then the battery hasn't had a long enough charge. Drive it for at least half an hour on a motorway during the day and try not to use anything in the car that puts a drain on the battery. Radio is ok as the draw isn't much. It's a bit old school but I I've tried it and it works. I only drive 5 miles in the morning and then 5 miles home but on the weekend I drive about 65 miles in one to top the battery up. Hope this helps. The fuel cap! Turn the key clockwise to unlock then twist left then to lock twist right and turn the key anti clockwise.

Revs sorted, wasn't giving it enough welly. I'll get onto the door at the weekend. Hopefully it'll be something really simple.

Thanks for the help. Basically when you press the remote or buttons in the car the door unlatches. Nothing else no movement just noise from the motor. I have noticed though that it's so easy to slide compared to the other side. I can feel the resistance on the drivers side rear door but the passenger door has no resistance, almost like it's not connected to anything. Owing to work hours and the amount of daylight I'll have to give it a look next weekend hopefully if nothing else comes up. Unrelated but noticed today that while giving it some beans I couldn't get the car to rev over 3000, either while at idle or whilst driving. Is this normal?

I've looked but can't find a section that has mention this particular problem. The door unlatches, the motor runs but the door doesn't move. Ive checked the wires in the track and am 99% sure there aren't any breaks in the wires so I've had the panel off the check that everything is connected, clean and dry and discovered that although the motor is running it isn't turning the flexible rod that drives the cog that moves the door. If I stick a screwdriver in the square hole that turns the rod it starts to spin but stops again when I remove the screwdriver. Is this just a motor fault and replace the motor or is it something more. If it was the drivers side then it wouldn't be much of a problem but being the passenger side its starting to be a pain. All/any help is appreciated.

Definitely do the rear crank seal, all 3 seals, I've never driven a car with 2 bite points and as soon as I replaced the crank seals and the clutch it went to a normal clutch again. The seal kit is around £100 and fairly easy to do, drop the 'box pull off the fly wheel and hey presto. Make sure you either take pictures or remember which way you pull stuff off. While you're underneath check the front engine mount as all 4 I've owned the mount has gone and replacing it made the world of difference with vibrations and noise.

The filters aren't lifetime filters they can be changed, diesel one can but not sure about petrol ones, check online with a parts supplier enter your reg and it'll come up with service parts that can be changed. If they can't be changed then they won't sell it, double check with a chrysler garage to make sure. Sound to me like you have a flat spot in the engine which sounds like filter but as its not there all the time I would try to pressure test the fuel system including injectors.

Sounds like someone's had a boogie with all the ecu's, everything is controlled by a computer. If the battery is connected the wrong way, even just touching it then removing it, then almost certainly it's fried some of the ecu's. When the battery is reconnected then the, dials spin round, mirrors move and the heater controls re set themselves. It sounds like yours has a complete set of broken ecu's. The fault code is probably one of many, try removing all sensors and connections, one at a time, and clean them up with a bit of emery paper or sand paper and spray with wd40. Could just be a really rubbish connection somewhere that I one has thought of.

I've just done the rear crank shaft seal on mine. But of a bugger to do but not impossible. Front seal is keep an eye on it. Turbo is the biggest problem as its a real pain to get at to take off then take it out from the car to check everything on it. Pollen filter isn't a problem as it in the cab and a bit of strong tape or fill the gap in with a glue gun. Everything is possible to do yourself if that way inclined, rear seal is priority though as if it goes completely you'll need a new clutch as it'll be contaminated with oil and just slip. A new seal from chrysler is £90. Got mine from Arnold Clarke in Oldbury. There are3 seals, a small one inside a metal plate, one that fits on the outside of the metal plate and then a larger one that fits behind all of that. Ideally you need the box out for space but possible to do it with the box dropped and supported so as not to damage the mounts.

I've got the same issue but isn't as bad, common problem apparently.