QinteQ

Alloy corrodes so these rads don't silt up but the alloy particulates form a solid clump blocking the RAD and often the STAT, the STAT however is designed to always stick in the 'open' position. The solid matter in mine was probably the use of non-HOAT and not using distilled water, so no recommend inhibitors. I did mine old school .. .. .. - car running, heater full belt on manual not e-setting - switch engine off - remove cap from expansion bottle, insert garden hose - slack off bottom hose a little - switch engine on, heater full belt on manual not e-setting - regulate the clean water in speed [expansion bottle] to the [bottom hose] dirty water out - drink coffee - when the rad & matrix is fully clear, engine off, allow 10 pints [ish] to drain from the bottom hose - clamp the bottom hose, fill with - a gallon of hoat and a gallon of distilled - burp and top up the expansion bottle

Front, never ever 'back flush'. REM it will 'self breathe' any air out if you set the temp to full whack with the fan on to get any air out of the heater matrix. Best of luck.

O/P it's not confusing just pick what quality oil you want to use and pay for. Your (types) choices are simple: full synth or part synth. Your (coldness) number in the UK is simple : 5W/30 full synth will protect you from -30°C to +30°C. We've just had a period of 30°C+ in the UK. Am I bothered ?. No not even a little bit, it was not that temp up here in 'flat cap' land and I've used and trusted full synth with all four of my common rail CRD's for 40+ years without any issues - you get what you pay for. NOTE: I've posted the full Chrysler own spec issue engineers workshop manuals dozens of times on this site. I'm assuming what you claimed to be your Chrysler workshop manual was in fact a 'Haynes' generic book. Please correct me if I'm wrong. Best of luck.

Brand is irrelevant to me, 'spec' is. Synth / semi synth / full synth are different levels of protection and different prices - what people choose to use is their decision. Brake, transmission, coolant, engine fluids should be a minimum of what Chrysler research scientists and engineers say you should use. Equally never ever use snake oil sellers of additives and voodoo magic stuff that obviously changes the multi bi££ion recommendations that Chrysler calls it's specification.

Spec is spec and ranges from best to worst protection. Here in the (England / Wales) UK we get very few days of sub 5°C. I've used thinner oil for 40 years and certainly all the years I've owned a GV. Low temperatures 5/40 IMO is good because it flows more easily and is therefore able to protect the engine when it is first started from cold. If oil is too thick when cold, it will not circulate freely and will reduce fuel economy. I used to do a full service every January now extremely low milage (2-3k per year) I only do a service (ALL fluids + filters included) every 4-5 years. It's a personal choice, each individual has to decide how they protect themselves.

The EU "green" obsessed (ACEA itself) does not approve the oils, they set the standards and oil manufacturer's may make performance claims for their products if those satisfy the relevant requirements. Hence my reason for asking if the Chrysler "Mopar" obsessed tells you to use a Euro Standard ! Modern Chrysler's of course are Euro Fiat but mine and maybe yours are/might not be. For me I'll always [as already stated] give my GV the very highest spec protection I can because I want it to give me the very best protection it can - that's not an emotional value-item, it's an objective scientific fact. The ACEA oil you mention may well be "full-synth" (you check) but will always be deliberately misinterpreted by Sellers to sell you cheaper part-synth. You decide my friend !

You have no sig line telling me what your car details are, so what car do you have ?. My above posts give my opinion on my Chrysler 04-07 MkIII but that applies to most cars. Are you telling me your Chrysler owners manual tells you to use ACEA A3/B3 ?

Here's the thread from 3 years ago.

Specification means the same exact quality and quantity of expensive beneficial additives are used. Just search Amazon for example for fully synthetic and half the offers are for cheaper synthetic (without the full) so be careful. These 'LIFE' fluids are the heart of your car. IMO : - use the Chrysler recommendations - brake fluid is hydroscopic and never ever changed, but should be - auto tranny is a pig, vacuum out and new pink in - never 'backflush' RAD, front flush only - never bodge and use 'additives' (1) The buttonMOD is a cheap, easy, quick DIY massive improvement to battery / maintenance / charging / lifestyle. (2) Screwfix RAD blanking is a cheap, easy, quick massive improvement to winter cold engine efficiency / cold cabin heat.

Brand is irrelevant to me, you'll note I used the word 'spec' in my #2 post, so the spec counts - my purchase is just price point. I was lucky about 5 years ago I got on a winner and bought 5 jugs for cheap money and I've only used 6 1/2 litres. I've just re-charged (3 times a year) my 'electric handbag' - great believer in the 'get out of jail immediately' card. I have x2 800/80 one of which is permanently on charge all year (9 stage charger) the battery gets changed out every October and May. Ive long adopted [a] 800/80 minimum battery CCA and Fully automatic 9 stage charger which needs no attention and always ON. Best of luck.

I'm old school and uber low milage high north of england. I learned the hard way and use the good / best 5W/40 full synth spec.

Here's the generic schematic : https://www.dieselnet.com/tech/images/diesel/fi/cr/control/~cr_valve_bosch.jpg - do the entire yellow line including a new filter.

It could be slack / dirty filter and any other elements of the LP system. But I am sure it's LP not the other (parts darts) areas. "It doesn't even work when I hand prime it - priming pump is always soft-15-" again says it's LP. Even if it isn't LP the LP needs eliminating first. I always go from cheap DIY to expensive paid experts. Go on the net and find a diagram of a Bosch common rail LP system and work your way through drain back / vacuum loss / air into the LP system.

a slack fuel filter was drawing in air" and allowing the fuel to run back was the cause. The lesson .. .. check the obvious first and the spin on fuel filter is the obvious 2012 POSThttps://forum.chryslerminivan.net/showthread.php/25809-NE1-in-the-UK-done-a-fuel-lift-pump-on-a-2005-2.8-CRD

I think it's LP side issues. No electric lift pump. Complete wrong advice from the mechanics.Drain back / vacuum loss / air in. Andy's GV is the single only 2.8 CRD one I've ever heard of with an electric lift. The hand primer should be rock hard with just one push - if it isn't then drain back / vacuum loss / air into the LP system/ or fuel filter / slack trap / X2 O rings etc. The HP system is more than capable of 'pulling'the fuel instantly if it's ready primed.

Do you have a hand primer ? [central ish between RAD and engine block]

- best of luck to you my friend.

All manuals are here all service manuals are here, key dance is here.

One of the ABS speed sensors is not working. If the ABS can't read all 4 wheels it can't deliver traction control - ABS switches it off till you fix your problem. Eliminate the sensor before going further, cheap to do. Most diagnostic tools will tell you which one is off.

HiYa Jeff, all the control logic [high/low/duration/etc is in the heater itself, the only bit in your IPM [below] is the switch ON/OFF and even that is outside your control.

I'm assuming you have a Webasto thermotop, NOT a cabin heater. Left to its own devices it will just work if (1) its cold enough and (2) if you are at least 1/4 full of fuel, it warms the big cold lump of an engine, turn it off and engine efficiency goes down and fuel economy also goes down. If you really want it switched off get underneath the car and unplug the electrical connector near the unit, denied a power supply voltage it will go dead along with its brain. ((Its possible someone fitted an ex Erberspatcher airtop in the cabin - this does indeed blow warm air)) We all have to learn including me, all questions and answers are knowledge and that's why we use forums. Take care !

That 110TE is a cracking bit of kit at 80/800, look in the acid holes if there's any white powdered substance only a 9 stage will de slough. Most goosed batteries are in fact good the just need sloughing but end up filling the scrapmans pockets. All new batteries are [politicians] diluted with junk lead from scrapyards. You can still buy proper virgin 100% batteries here but at £350-500. You will need to measure 3 times to make sure you can the 110TE in even after cutting. Example biggest size you will get in ..... My big Bosch is : Length (MM) Top 315Width (MM) Top 175Height (MM) inc Terminals 175 My Bosch & Exide are an 'only blummin just' fit. batteryMOD [Resistor] is 100% 20p2 minutes The single best assist you can give a diesel winter CCA is the batteryMOD, put simply 14.4 used to be the old[er] charge rate. The current thinking of 13.8 is generally accepted battery charge rate. To me that's too low for a 80aH battery in the winter. A cell on our lead acid starts to charge @ 2.25 x by our 6 cells is 13.8 in most/many cases that's gonna take one hell of a long time to replace just one winters morning. The ButtonMod is easy, in just minutes, safe as houses costs less than a quid and delivers 14,4[ish] well inside the 14.5 gassing safety and a much reduced re-charge time particularly for those such as myself who have a 'lifestyle' that means two 15 minute trips per week. Our GV's draw a flaky IOD of .025 to .030aH at rest after the 16 minute sleep command and have a lot of electrical toys, add to that the big 3 litre lump of a UK ± °C cold compression engine and you have some big needs. - 33K Ω @ 1/2 watt gave me the 13.9- 22K Ω @ 1/2 watt gave me the 14.4 I wanted- back to 'happy days' 'old school' charging rates Terminals off before you start - Best of luck..

Current a second hand 8 year old BMW stamped 5 series battery which I now know to be an Exide F21 which is my long rated 80/800. Spare .1. the Silver S6 already mentioned. .2. The Enduro 69. Can't afford the big Noco get the GB20 400A, you'll get half a dozen good cold starts out of it, charge it up every three months. I've made many comments on solar, I've tried several Solar 'maintainers', no further comment except don't waste your money.

See here. They don't do the S6 anymore, all S6/5/4/etc meant was how many years warranty they offered, aH & CCA is all that matters to me and they were BIG. Mine is tucked in a cupboard in the kitchen, been there for years now.

I bough the MP428 for £35 and its been continuously on all three batteries for 2 years, in the case of the S6 for 13 months without switching off - ever.