QinteQ

From the other forum

https://youtu.be/ZB-8pS2zM3Y

The "headphone" button on the memory M8. - or you are looking for other issues. - see : http://www.chryslerforum.co.uk/topic/1813-mopar-dvd-player-installation/?hl=remote&do=findComment&comment=8187

As Semmy said nothing (at all ever) can begin without 12v power switch. That switch is the IR from the correct Mopar / Rosen 2 channel [different MHz separation for L&R channel] battery remote + headphones. Best of luck.

MEGGA POST Battery & Drain / Loss From - 25 May 2017 - 09:26 PM Battery: Choice, Battery choice, like choosing a wife, provokes different opinions on what is beautiful. The issue however are simple. You should be looking for about 800CCA over 80aH, this is a physical size that will not fit the CRD battery tray, so get a big one and modify the tray, or get a smaller one and take your UK winter chances. There is a~n~other UK issue of lifestyle, its a use it or lose it condition. If like me you do 2000 miles per annum with two 15 minutes trips once a week you will regardless of battery size / cost never keep that battery charged, the BUS [over 7 or so days] at resting will use more than the 30 minutes the alternator was able to replace. Different people have success with different batteries, I'm sure the UK users will come to your aid with their suggestions, particularly the Scottish contingent who have an even colder climate than I. For myself I originally had an underpowered Banner Uni Bull 690 over 70 and my replacement now is a much preferred Varta 585 400 080 @ 85aH / 800CCA my backup permanently on a 9 stage charger is a Bosch S5 Type 96 at 800 over 80. Never use one of those 'put your reg in here' dBase's they are rubbish [wiped the dribble from his nose] and will offer you a petrol spec / size battery not CRD capable. If you cant face modding the battery tray go for a RED TOP spiral of 800 CCA. See here for orientation. NOTE : I have a poor 'lifestyle' use. Power seat fuse : are as stated droppers, as you have had your battery removed for 4 days the 'droppers' should re-set themselves via the BCM/IPM Lifestyle : Two 15 minutes trips once a week. The higher the voltage applied, the faster the battery will charge, charging at too high a voltage WILL damage your battery. A simple 100Ah open lead acid battery and a 180A charger connected to the battery discharged to 50% : - @ 50% full @ 13.2V current was 35A- @ 50% full @ 14,8V current was 160A [improvement of 457%]- @ 75% full @ 13.2V current was 1A- @ 75% full @ 14.8V current was 60A [improvement of 6000%] Its not linear so : - two 15 minute periods @ 13.2V is 2 x 15 minute @ 21Ah, compared to ;- two 15 minute periods @ 14.4V is 2 x 15 minute @ 60Ah, is an improvement of about 300% The temperature sensor under the battery will drop [ temperature compensator's on modern alternators will compensate] the voltage output from about 14.0V to about 13.2V. The problem I have with this is the engine compartment soon reaches temp and the battery assumes its fully charged. - 13.20 volts is about what you would expect from [split diode - does not apply to Voyagers, and] this vehicle with a temp sensor & alternator compensator- 14.00 volts is about what you would expect from any typical alternator without a vehicle temp sensor & alternator compensator- 14.40 volts is what you would expect from a sealed lead acid to prevent [they tend to gas @ 50ºC] excessive gassing- 14.80 volts is what you can risk pushing it to with an open lead acid to prevent damage to other equipment connected to the battery at the same time NOTE01 : There are IOD 7 functions that are always 'live' when you think your car and battery are both asleep, they pull a combined 0.025 ampere draw. • Electrical items left on.• Faulty or improperly adjusted switches.• Faulty or shorted electronic modules and components.• An internally shorted generator.• Intermittent shorts in the wiringRemote key fobRadioHeater blowerFolding mirrorsCentral locksInterior lights when the key is in the ignition IGNITION-OFF DRAW TEST - reproduced from the Actual Chrysler issue to main dealers workshop manual. Allow twenty minutes for the IOD to stabilize and observe the multi-meter reading. The low-amper- age IOD should not exceed twenty-five milliamperes (0.025 ampere). If the current draw exceeds twenty-five milliamperes, isolate each circuit using the fuse and circuit breaker remove-and-replace process in Step 4. The multi-meter reading will drop to within the acceptable limit when the source of the excessive current draw is disconnected. Repair this circuit as required; whether a wiring short, incorrect switch adjustment, or a component failure is at faultThe term Ignition-Off Draw (IOD) identifies a normal condition where power is being drained from the battery with the ignition switch in the Off position. A normal vehicle electrical system will draw from fifteen to twenty five milliamperes (0.015 to 0.025 ampere) with the ignition switch in the Off position, and all non-ignition controlled circuits in proper working order. Up to twenty-five milliamperes are needed to enable the memory functions for the Powertrain Control Module (PCM), digital clock, electronically tuned radio, and other modules which may vary with the vehicle equipment. A vehicle that has not been operated for approximately twenty one days, may discharge the battery to an inadequate level. When a vehicle will not be used for twenty one days or more (stored), remove the IOD fuse from the Integrated Power Module (IPM). This will reduce battery discharging. BatteryMOD I like many of us was an early adopter of AGM, most of us by now will be AGM. It occurs to me that the safe μF we chose for the buttonMOD could be changed to give closer to 14.4V than the 14.1 I was getting. I went 13.9 to 14.1 it would be nice to have that extra .3V, it would make a hell of a difference on a big 80aH even over such a short charging time frame as 15 minutes. I was thinking 22K Ω @ 1/2 watt would be a goodish guesstimate for keeping it under the 14.6[ish] although I'm sure it would be safe a little higher so I upped it to 22K Ω @ 1/2 watt, now tested over two summers and winters and .... smack on 14.4-6 winter and 13.9+ summer steady across the REV range. This will better recover the winter loss more quickly. Of course in the summer the ALT output will be / and is limited by the lower battery replenishment needs. So the 14.5-6V over the winter and its now an average of 13.9- 14+V summer and no longer a "guesstimate" but a fact. Well pleased ! NOTES: see here for lots of bits on parasitic / battery power loss.

If your GV has a (1) Webasto fitted and many Ltd editions of the 2.8 do .... and (2) you keep your fuel higher than 1/4 tank and .... (30 your heating is set to digital auto, an extra light will come on the 'highbrow' to signal its switched on automatically. This Webasto under the drivers seat area of the floor will "express" excess moisture and diesel from the 'burn bowl' - looks like loosing coolant but isn't !

Primer Pump http://www.lcool.org/technical/120_series/fuel_filter/filter2a.jpg IPM

Could as you / RAC / indi garage know be anything, I'd start here : - borrow a 'known to be top notch good' battery / charge yours - on a 9 stage charger ! - battery for a 2.8 should be in the region of 80/800 and under 3 years old - what's yours ? - pull NEG terminal for 30 minutes, reinstate to reboot all computers - what happens now ? "no pulse / fuel pressure" also suggests (1) car thinks its being stolen (2) trigger [spade] wire / both earth points on starter motor need checking cleaning tightening (3) manky fuel filter / low pressure issues. Best of luck.

Your GV should get to 1/2 on the gauge - does it ? Leedsman Battery

See "screwfix" in this thread.

see

Andy's issue was a catastrophic FLEX plate failure. Photos and walk through this/the other forum/or his blog lads.

First posted Easter 2014 Battery Battery choice, like choosing a wife, provokes different opinions on what is beautiful. The issue however are simple. You should be looking for about 800CCA over 80aH, this is a physical size that will not fit the CRD battery tray, so get a big one and modify the tray, or get a smaller one and take your UK winter chances. There is a~n~other UK issue of lifestyle, its a use it or lose it condition. If like me you do 2000 miles per annum with two 15 minutes trips once a week you will regardless of battery size / cost never keep that battery charged, the BUS [over 7 or so days] at resting will use more than the 30 minutes the alternator was able to replace. Different people have success with different batteries, I'm sure the UK users will come to your aid with their suggestions, particularly the Scottish contingent who have an even colder climate than I. For myself I originally had a Banner Uni Bull 690 over 70 and my replacement was a Bosch S5 Type 96 at 800 over 80. Best of luck. Power seat fuse : are as stated droppers, as you have had your battery removed for 4 days the 'droppers' should re-set themselves via the BCM/IPM Lifestyle : Two 15 minutes trips once a week. The higher the voltage applied, the faster the battery will charge, charging at too high a voltage WILL damage your battery. A simple 100Ah open lead acid battery and a 180A charger connected to the battery discharged to 50% : - @ 50% full @ 13.2V current was 35A- @ 50% full @ 14,8V current was 160A [improvement of 457%]- @ 75% full @ 13.2V current was 1A- @ 75% full @ 14.8V current was 60A [improvement of 6000%] Its not linear so : - two 15 minute periods @ 13.2V is 2 x 15 minute @ 21Ah, compared to ;- two 15 minute periods @ 14.4V is 2 x 15 minute @ 60Ah, is an improvement of about 300% The temperature sensor under the battery will drop [ temperature compensator's on modern alternators will compensate] the voltage output from about 14.0V to about 13.2V. The problem I have with this is the engine compartment soon reaches temp and the battery assumes its fully charged. - 13.20 volts is about what you would expect from [split diode - does not apply to Voyagers, and] this vehicle with a temp sensor & alternator compensator- 14.00 volts is about what you would expect from any typical alternator without a vehicle temp sensor & alternator compensator- 14.40 volts is what you would expect from a sealed lead acid to prevent [they tend to gas @ 50ºC] excessive gassing- 14.80 volts is what you can risk pushing it to with an open lead acid to prevent damage to other equipment connected to the battery at the same time NOTE01 : There are IOD 7 functions that are 'live' when you think your car and battery are asleep, they pull a combined 0.025 ampere draw. I used a Maplins cheepo solar panel which cost me £15 at the time, and I have never been unable to start the car since. They are : • Electrical items left on.• Faulty or improperly adjusted switches.• Faulty or shorted electronic modules and components.• An internally shorted generator.• Intermittent shorts in the wiringRemote key fobRadioHeater blowerFolding mirrorsCentral locksInterior lights when the key is in the ignition IGNITION-OFF DRAW TEST - reproduced from the workshop manual - According to Chrysler's own workshop manual : Allow twenty minutes for the IOD to stabilize and observe the multi-meter reading. The low-amper- age IOD should not exceed twenty-five milliamperes (0.025 ampere). If the current draw exceeds twenty-five milliamperes, isolate each circuit using the fuse and circuit breaker remove-and-replace process in Step 4. The multi-meter reading will drop to within the acceptable limit when the source of the excessive current draw is disconnected. Repair this circuit as required; whether a wiring short, incorrect switch adjustment, or a component failure is at faultThe term Ignition-Off Draw (IOD) identifies a normal condition where power is being drained from the battery with the ignition switch in the Off position. A normal vehicle electrical system will draw from fifteen to twenty five milliamperes (0.015 to 0.025 ampere) with the ignition switch in the Off position, and all non-ignition controlled circuits in proper working order. Up to twenty-five milliamperes are needed to enable the memory functions for the Powertrain Control Module (PCM), digital clock, electronically tuned radio, and other modules which may vary with the vehicle equipment. A vehicle that has not been operated for approximately twenty one days, may discharge the battery to an inadequate level. When a vehicle will not be used for twenty one days or more (stored), remove the IOD fuse from the Integrated Power Module (IPM). This will reduce battery discharging. BatteryMOD I like many of us was an early adopter of AGM, most of us by now will be AGM. It occurs to me that the safe μF we chose for the buttonMOD could be changed to give closer to 14.4V than the 14.1 I was getting. I went 13.9 to 14.1 it would be nice to have that extra .3V, it would make a hell of a difference on a big 80aH even over such a short charging time frame as 15 minutes. I was thinking 22K Ω @ 1/2 watt would be a goodish guesstimate for keeping it under the 14.6[ish] although I'm sure it would be safe a little higher. I'll be happy if I can get to the extra .3's @ 14.4 * Tested .... smack on 14.4-6 winter and 14+ summer over a 6 month period steady across the REV range. This will better recover the winter loss more quickly. Of course in the summer the ALT output will be limited by the lower battery replenishment needs Well pleased ! UPDATE : I did a further mod and changed the the 33K Ω @ 1/2 watt to 22K Ω @ 1/2 watt keeps it under the 4.6[ish] I did get the extra .3's @ 14.4+ I was aiming for. This will better recover the winter loss more quickly. Of course in the summer the ALT output will be limited by the lower battery replenishment needs _____________________________________________ First posted Jan 2012 Rang first to check stock, then went to Halfords, ordered their own recommended [put your registration in] 5 year warranted battery the HSB096 @ £129:99 while the nice clepto-cashier lady was emptying my plastic I flicked up the terminal covers to find the Terminals were the wrong way [o O - they should be - O o] round.http://i40.tinypic.com/1y8j2r.gif A 12 year old expert fully trained and certificated male assistant wiped the dribble from his nose and stormed out to my MOTA in the rain which was splattering against his thin bony shoulders making a mess of his over white freshly ironed by his Mother .. .. shirt, all the time asserting in a very authoritative way why I way wrong and why it could not possibly be their 'fittings dBase', his matchstick like thin arms finally managed to lift the bonnet without breaking any of his arms only to find the common standard terminals. I did try to help his embarrassment, honest I did, I even offered him one of my Wurthers Originals and assured him we all make mistakes .. .. its all part of life's long learning .. .. but I still want my £230 snots back and I want them now. So now I'm back to where I started, I never in my life thought buying a correct 'soddin battery would be so much trouble. So I start the search again - this companies dBase correctly identifies the MOTA even listing the correct colour of my car etc and suggests 2 - both in the S range both will do the job , the; S4010 / 12V, capacity 80Ah, cold test current 740A / £72:95 - 5 year warranty - free delivery S5010 / 12V, capacity 85Ah, cold test current 800A / £87:50 - 5 year warranty - free delivery My one remaining indecision is that though they list 315mm long, 175mm wide, 175mm high, the 315mm is about 27mm / 1.06 inches more than my current battery which will make the 175mm installed height of the battery a full inch closer to the sound deadening material on the underside of the bonnet [radiator side]. Two Three Four Points .1. - unless someone wants to convince me before Monday that it wont fit, or the terminals are arras first I'll buy the bigger one .2. - why waste all these letters of the alphabet ?, because there is an issue getting an 85/800 in the UK to fit a Voyager, and others following me might benefit from a thread that proves you don't have to go for a lesser capacity paying a lot - when you can have the full 85/800 for relatively little compared to the 175/175/278 size. .3. - if I'm wrong tell me quick !!!! because although this Forum's users will benefit from my mistake, I'll be £88 Quid down the chute ! .4. - don't believe what these 'enter your registration' dataBASE's tell you .. .. they are as good as the wo/man entering the DATA and I've found three tonight alone that were wrong, and one [in hope more that expectation] that's correct.

Quick 'n effective is an inline statMOD from Andy........ Inline stat, £10 + 10 minutes. Air dam lagging, £1 + 10 minutes. Battery mod, 20p + 5 minutes.

The 4 gens were manual automatic 31TH or 41TE weren't they nev. I referenced my post to the 41TE, but yes it is YOUR MANUAL lever selection. The : - one forward - one backward and - safety parking pin as I understand it is what the LOGIC allows as a 'get you to safety' default.

Just fully charge it M8, most pro places you GOTO don't have a clue or equipment to check actual CCA free or paid for.Check the date on you battery if it's older than 3 years always suspect it.If you need to go there I always suggest 80/800 (ish) make sure YOU pick the terminals the right way round. LP=low pressure system. Most often it's just a vibrated slack screw-on fuel filter or its little white water trap on the bottom the Q&D test is to push the hand primer first AM to see if you have air in or vacuum leak out. Do easy-DIY-cheap first then go on to complex-hard-pay others.

11.75v is about 30% charged 11.58v is about 20% charged - its not linear for example 12.6v is 100% http://www.marxrv.com/12volt/voltchart1.gif ​It's diagnostics, fix your battery, then reset your computers. That level of pink would frighten me to death. Check the LP side, the button on the hand pump should be rock hard within one push if it isn't fix your LP leakback.

Nev is bang on. They are your mechanical default 'limp mode' get you safe gears. Foreward, reverse and park. This would be the [logic] case with or without the connection on the 2.8 CRD. Charge battery. Disconnect NEG for 15 minutes. Try again after reconnecting the NEG to reset (if possible) the logic.

Webasto. If the air temp is (1) cold enough and the (2) fuel tank is at least 1/4 full and the (3) heater is on auto hot it will come on regardless of your control. The water will flush through the webasto regardless of the 'burner bowl' ignition.

Having known you personally for some years now and knowing the diligent, hard and expensive work you have put in to that one and your previous GV I'm sorry for you Andy lad.

HOAT + distilled water I said was for the last FINAL fill AFTER the tap-water is clean, the matrix is open, heat to full belt, header tank cap off - to 'burp' any air out of your now clean 'beat practice' cooling service, check all hoses etc for leaks and take it for a local (ISH) run WITH a spare "just in case" gallon of get-me-home water. Now I did not know you had used 'snake oil-voodoo' crap additives and that worries me. Just do as young nev says and see where it goes for you M8.

When did you change your air filter etc, when did you change your (correct grade/viscosity) engine oil, when did you change your gearbox oil ? Is your fully loaded trailer only 60% of the weight of your GV. What is your fully loaded weight of your GV. Did you check the pressure swich. Did you : Upgrade radiator Upgrade Engine oil cooler Fit a heavy-duty transmission oil cooler

Your welcome we all use the huge repository of specific knowledge on forums - that's how we all learn. Burp like your baby did, - it just means get the wind [air] out. Luckily we owners of GV's don' t need to use bleed valves, it will do it naturally if you do what I said in #11. When your happy its done and topped up to the line take it for a ride while its hot and 'prove' it does not leak cooling any fluid.

That's what I did, I took my time, let the hose do the work. I then turned the engine off and dropped 2x5 litres of now clean water out of the RAD into a paint bucket and replace that with HOAT and distilled. Engine on matrix open get it hot let it 'burp' [and make sure it does]. Most of us on these forums have GV's that are 10+ years old. Most of us for 7+ years have gone Indi / or / DIY and most indi's use learner trainees who use any / all $hite cheap fluids. So I've tried hard to tightly control my WAV-GV remaining (reliability) lifespan.

Amazon Comma XHD5L G05 about £25 + TUW DW005 De-Ionised Water about £5 straight to your house ( or anywhere else ) my M8.