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- trigger wire on starter motor - both earth's undone / cleaned / redone - new/borrowed-charged 800/80 battery - check LP system - assuming factory alarm "self protect mode" If it's zero, zilch attempt to even power the Bendix it's "protect" mode or 'trigger wire'/ Earth's. RedTop fully charged is a straight swap. What CCA is the 3 year old battery is currently fitted ? Re-make the spade connector direct connection IGN to STARTER. Best of luck.

I'm an Uber low-miler. I do a very full service only every 5 years. The life giving Chrysler recommended coolant should be HOAT05 and the recommended Chrysler interval is every 5 years. The 2.8 takes about 10 litres... 5 HOAT + 5 distilled water (about £1). My assertion on front-flush dovetails perfectly with the recommended interval. Front flush because alloy DO NOT flush like the old copper/brass. HOAT additives because without the essential additives your aluminium WILL suffer a chemical attack. Doing it right 1st time will save you money and heartache in the long run. I like and really need my GV. I bought it @ 2 years old, it's now about 15, only 85k miles and in very very good nick for its UK (salt) year. Like all relationships you get out what you put into that needs-based marriage. It's a given that a garage/pet indi/friend will stick any old fluid exact same fluid into any/every vehicle. Wrong Synth engine/old spent hydroscopic brake/auto-box fluid - etc etc. Look after you car and it's better able to look after you and your family. Best of luck.

Even if you were a qualified, practicing master tech specialising in CRD voyagers I'd disagree with both your assertions my friend. I am however happy that your chosen solution worked for you. Flushing is a solution to poor maintenance and particularly the use of coolants other than the manufacturer's recommendations which in this case is HOAT 05 spec. Build up of particulate caused by using the wrong coolant can an will cause much more damage than simple overheating, in your case a new RAD. Proper coolant lubricates and adds to the life of the water pump with the additives in it, this in addition to the life of the radiator. My own car, properly maintained since I got it has never faulted and I do Saltburn and Staithes. Flushing certainly does work, it's essential maintenance. Best of luck.

ButtonMOD [not inline stat] assume you meant. From 2017 I put a 33KΩ @ 1/2 watt in the live-out cable from the battery button and I get a consistent 14.6V winter and 14.2V summer. This is needed for my 'lifestyle needs'. It recovers winter loss much much more quickly and is mitigated in the summer by the lower battery replenishment needs. InlineSTAT [not buttonMOD] + 'winterising' From 2015

Nobody flushes the RAD, never in the lifetime of our GV's do they get real maintenance. Mine is 05 on an 04 build. It's now 2 or 3 years since I did mine and mine is now about 14 years old. I was not reaching 1/4 temp so decided to do do an 'inline transverse stat' MOD. Cost about £15 and 15 minutes all in and then did the buttonMOD - it's been good ever since. Look at the translucent header tank with the engine running and you will see the regular pulse of the water pump circulation. Never backflush an alloy RAD always front flush. With the engine running and the heater (matrix) full heat whack I slacked off the bottom hose jubilee clip and removed the header tank top and stuck a garden hose in the header adjusting out-flow to in-flow. All manner of gunge came out, left it run till clear. Switched the engine off, pulled the hose pipe, let two gallon + extra out of the bottom hose the tightened the bottom hose. Put 5 litres of Host 05 and 5 litres of distilled water in, brought it up to temp with the matrix open and header tank cap on, topped it up to level. It's been ok ever since.

- different model IPM, but shows pins - ditto shunt applied - all tipm's We call them fusebox / IPM our American cousins pronounce them "tippen's"

Good man, glad you (1) chased it down (2) sorted it and (3) let other users know your findings.

Good, yes most don't know what's in the IPM. Here's a post of mine from four or so years ago, particularly the way the FCM interactions twixt the IPM + PCi data BUS. There are other posts somewhere I made where the pcb-horizontal layers and vertical pins [passing through some but not all layers] are in 'exploded' view. Best of luck.

If you are within striking distance of Teesside I'll do 2 reads+clears M8. The fusebox as you call it controls nothing, but yet everything. There are 4 alpha [particularly U] codes all run through wires which pass through the often verdegree'd, corroded, cancer-wired, 3 pin-layerd "fusebox". Your 07 should not be 'minging'. - best of luck - now back to the movie.

I've a DelphiWOW. 9/10 times its ComPort settings that means it does not connect. Generally IMO there are diagnostic scanners and toys. Even a Delphi is a toy, but the reason the O/P is charged £50 a pop for a read is a good scanner is good money - so north of £500 for a grey and £1k for a Chinglese copy. So as karmannski says go Delphi or find some indi with an X431 or DS708 both of which scan MK4 codes.

No pics, I was so ' kissed' off I had no time for coffee. I hooked the last one closest on the middle two coils only to reinforce (holding) a bit of a banana. 700 ft.-lbs Milwaukee cranked to full couldn't even get an extra 1/4 turn - terrifying, no idea of tensile on the cheepo Amazon bars I bought - capable of shearing threaded bar. So the x4 did the job the 5th was my insurance. Still got to do the other side, not looking forward to it. They were both ripe but only the O/S was clicking karmanski. I'm still lugging one brand new side round waiting for some divine intervention. 1+6

tried two commercial 1 ton hydraulic strut coil stations - useless ended with 6x390mm new Amazon cheepo clamps, used only 5 Got to be worst waste of a whole day, still have the other side to do .. .. ..

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PDUrohx2HYI

No idea but it's rear bumper and don't REM seeing it anywhere obvious. So rear 1/4 panel RHS loom I assume. It's a 'self correcting unit unless it's goosed altogether so should put an error in the EVIC.

As long as it is thin enough to flow at low temperatures and thick enough to perform satisfactorily at high temperatures where you live. 6L of 5W30 will perform correctly up to -25 degrees C and in 75 big round years of driving I've never seen those temps. Manky filter-change it !

1st Posted 25 May 2017 - 09:26 PM Battery Battery choice, like choosing a wife, provokes different opinions on what is beautiful. The issue however are simple. You should be looking for about 800CCA over 80aH, this is a physical size that will not fit the CRD battery tray, so get a big one and modify the tray, or get a smaller one and take your UK winter chances. There is a~n~other UK issue of lifestyle, its a use it or lose it condition. If like me you do 2000 miles per annum with two 15 minutes trips once a week you will regardless of battery size / cost never keep that battery charged, the BUS [over 7 or so days] at resting will use more than the 30 minutes the alternator was able to replace. Different people have success with different batteries dependant on lifestyle, I'm sure the UK users will come to your aid with their suggestions, particularly the Scottish contingent who have an even colder climate than I. For myself I originally had a Banner Uni Bull 690 over 70 and my replacement was a Bosch S5 Type 96 at 800 over 80. Best of luck. Power seat fuse : are as stated droppers, as you have had your battery removed for 4 days the 'droppers' should re-set themselves via the BCM/IPM Lifestyle : Two short 15 minute trips once a week. The higher the voltage applied, the faster the battery will charge, charging at too high a voltage WILL damage your battery. A simple 100Ah open lead acid battery and a 180A charger connected to the battery discharged to 50% : - @ 50% full @ 13.2V current was 35A- @ 50% full @ 14,8V current was 160A [improvement of 457%]- @ 75% full @ 13.2V current was 1A- @ 75% full @ 14.8V current was 60A [improvement of 6000%] Its not linear so : - two 15 minute periods @ 13.2V is 2 x 15 minute @ 21Ah, compared to ;- two 15 minute periods @ 14.4V is 2 x 15 minute @ 60Ah, is an improvement of about 300% The temperature sensor under the battery will drop [ temperature compensator's on modern alternators will compensate] the voltage output from about 14.0V to about 13.2V. The problem I have with this is summer the engine compartment soon reaches temp and the battery assumes its fully charged. - 13.20 volts is about what you would expect from [split diode - does not apply to Voyagers, and] this vehicle with a temp sensor & alternator compensator- 14.00 volts is about what you would expect from any typical alternator without a vehicle temp sensor & alternator compensator- 14.40 volts is what you would expect from a sealed lead acid to prevent [they tend to gas @ 50ºC] excessive gassing- 14.80 volts is what you can risk pushing it to with an open lead acid to prevent damage to other equipment connected to the battery at the same time NOTE01 : There are IOD 7 functions [parasitic drain] that are 'live' when you think your car and battery are asleep, they pull [Chrysler Worksop Manuals] a combined 0.025 ampere draw. I have tested solar maintenance and it is not cost effective,they are : • Electrical items left on.• Faulty or improperly adjusted switches.• Faulty or shorted electronic modules and components.• An internally shorted generator.• Intermittent shorts in the wiringRemote key fobRadioHeater blowerFolding mirrorsCentral locksInterior lights when the key is in the ignition IGNITION-OFF DRAW TEST - reproduced from the workshop manual - According to Chrysler's own workshop manual : Allow twenty minutes for the IOD to stabilize and observe the multi-meter reading. The low-amper- age IOD should not exceed twenty-five milliamperes (0.025 ampere). If the current draw exceeds twenty-five milliamperes, isolate each circuit using the fuse and circuit breaker remove-and-replace process in Step 4. The multi-meter reading will drop to within the acceptable limit when the source of the excessive current draw is disconnected. Repair this circuit as required; whether a wiring short, incorrect switch adjustment, or a component failure is at faultThe term Ignition-Off Draw (IOD) identifies a normal condition where power is being drained from the battery with the ignition switch in the Off position. A normal vehicle electrical system will draw from fifteen to twenty five milliamperes (0.015 to 0.025 ampere) with the ignition switch in the Off position, and all non-ignition controlled circuits in proper working order. Up to twenty-five milliamperes are needed to enable the memory functions for the Powertrain Control Module (PCM), digital clock, electronically tuned radio, and other modules which may vary with the vehicle equipment. A vehicle that has not been operated for approximately twenty one days, may discharge the battery to an inadequate level. When a vehicle will not be used for twenty one days or more (stored), remove the IOD fuse from the Integrated Power Module (IPM). This will reduce battery discharging. BatteryMOD I like many of us was an early adopter of AGM, most of us by now will be AGM. It occurs to me that the safe μF we chose for the buttonMOD could be changed to give closer to 14.4V than the 14.1 I was getting. I went 13.9 to 14.1 it would be nice to have that extra .3V, it would make a hell of a difference on a big 80aH even over such a short charging time frame as 15 minutes. I was thinking 22K Ω @ 1/2 watt would be a goodish guesstimate for keeping it under the 14.6[ish] although I'm sure it would be safe a little higher. I'll be happy if I can get to the extra .3's @ 14.4 * Update - Tested over three summers .... smack on 14.2-6+ winter and 14+ summer over a 6 month period steady across the REV range. This will better recover the winter loss more quickly. Of course in the summer the ALT output will be limited by the lower battery replenishment needs Well pleased with output / behaviour / safety !*************************Halfords et-al Rang first to check stock, then went to Halfords, ordered their own recommended [put your registration in] 5 year warranted battery the HSB096 @ £129:99 while the nice clepto-cashier lady was emptying my plastic I flicked up the terminal covers to find the Terminals were the wrong way [o O - they should be - O o] round. http://i40.tinypic.com/1y8j2r.gif A 12 year old expert fully trained and certificated male assistant wiped the dribble from his nose and stormed out to my MOTA in the rain which was splattering against his thin bony shoulders making a mess of his over white freshly ironed by his Mother .. .. shirt, all the time asserting in a very authoritative way why I was wrong and why it could not possibly be their 'fittings dBase', his matchstick like thin arms finally managed to lift the bonnet without breaking any of his arms only to find the common standard terminals. I did try to help his embarrassment, honest I did, I even offered him one of my Wurthers Originals and assured him we all make mistakes .. .. its all part of life's long learning .. .. but I still want my £230 snots back and I want them now. So now I'm back to where I started, I never in my life thought buying a correct 'soddin battery would be so much trouble. So I start the search again - this companies dBase correctly identifies the MOTA even listing the correct colour of my car etc and suggests 2 - both in the S range both will do the job , the; S4010 / 12V, capacity 80Ah, cold test current 740A / £72:95 - 5 year warranty - free delivery S5010 / 12V, capacity 85Ah, cold test current 800A / £87:50 - 5 year warranty - free delivery My one remaining indecision is that though they list 315mm long, 175mm wide, 175mm high, the 315mm is about 27mm / 1.06 inches more than my current battery which will make the 175mm installed height of the battery a full inch closer to the sound deadening material on the underside of the bonnet [radiator side]. Two Three Four Points .1. - there are many many thousands making new very expensive replacement batteries because you believe what they tell you in their online dBase etc, don't believe it its marketing - check everything yourself .2. - why waste all these letters of the alphabet ?, because there is an issue getting an 85/800 in the UK to fit a Voyager, and others following me might benefit from a thread that proves you don't have to go for a lesser capacity paying a lot - when you can have the full 85/800 for relatively little compared to the 175/175/278 size .3. - don't believe what these online 'enter your registration' dataBASE's tell you .. .. they are as good as the wo/man entering the DATA and I found three that Halfords night alone that were wrong, and one [in hope more that expectation] that's correct .4. - Red Top's - - if the Grand Voyagers are a pig for starting in the cold UK- and if a battery is a store of energy / starting punch - why are in the UK do they suggest Voyagers use the Optima 4.2 at about £160 ? - instead of a similar or better spec TAXI battery at half that price The Optima SPIRAL claim is that : - It'll last up to 2 times longer than other batteries. - It can sit unused 3 times longer than other batteries. - It is over 15 times more resistant to vibration than other batteries. - It's non-spill-able and can mount in almost any position. - It provides more power in the initial 1, 3, 5, and 10 seconds of the vehicle starting process than comparably rated conventional lead acid batteries. I've read the threads on here about the issue with the Voyager in the UK and / or / lifestyle. Others have chosen and had success with different batteries / choices. Sorry about 'wall' of text So here's the lazy way : Circumstances / mobility / lacking ability. Fit a red top, goes straight in without moddin, not cheap but about 30% cheaper when they were 1st released.

No idea on your listings but put simply the 4GEN voyagers are : - about 12" shorter /longer [01-07] and had 2.4 / 2.5 derv or 3.3-litre petrol Put simply the 4GEN grand [April 2004 facelift] voyagers are : - added 2.8 derv and more knobs + functions and in [2005] stow 'n Go Best of luck

Lens marking codes

Do the job the correct way. (1) Forward flush [notbackflush] to get a lifetimes gunk out (2) use only HOAT Comma G05 Xstream coolant. When I did my "inlineMOD" I : - used 5L G05 +5L de-ionised water - hose pipe in the expansion bottle, loosen bottom hose CRITICAL ** set temp to highest/fan set to highest to clear the matrix - clean hose in water @ same rate as dirty out - when perfectly clear - tighten bottom hose - 5L G05 + 5L de-ionised in expansion bottle - start engine / full heat / full fan blower - let it ''burp' from filler cap until it reaches temp Never back-flush, best of luck.

autoshaman

You can't screw up because you can always reverse it can't you ? The "Winterising" of cars has been around for as long as there have been cars. GV's however IMO have additional needs of (1) particularly high IOD (2) a big cold lump of an engine in the -0°C UK, a (3) spectacularly poor CCA battery [+ battery tray] and even with a supplimentary Webasto Watertop diesel heater takes (4) too many minutes to heat the high volume cabin. So while Winterising means tyres, blanket, de-icer etc. To me it means : - higher charge rate - lower cold air ingress - better aH / CCA battery - inline stat if needed Charge rate is 10p and 10 minutes. Screwfix cheepo 99p a length microbore solves cold air ingress. Battery is eventually an inexorable essential not cosmetic. Inline stat is £15 and 15 minutes if needed.

Hiya biscuit. At its crudest twist together / male - female crimp blade terminals / solder and tape / 3A chockkie block etc. All you are doing is putting a 22K-Ohm @ 1/2-Watt resistor in the live line to fool the BCM into giving you much higher but still safe old school 14+V instead of 13-V.

Do the MOD, charging [my method was 22K Ω @ 1/2 watt it keeps it under the 4.6[ish]. I did get to the 14.4+ I was aiming for. This will better recover the winter loss more quickly. Of course in the summer the ALT output will be limited by the lower battery replenishment needs] answer here. I get 13+ to 12+ summer and 14+ in the [short duration runs over 2 winters] winter. I have never reached 15 let alone 15.6V with the MOD. Cheepo 9 stage charger in its 3rd year of use, does a cracking job including sloughing. - best of luck

Additional tailgate, power liftgate, switch. Grand voyager, grand caravan chrysler, dodge. 2001-2007 Acknowledgement to 'hoopy' on the other forum !