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I've never heard mine though I do hear it when it switches off. The burn bowl on the 'WaterTop' should expell it's burnt/unburned fuel into the mini-exhaust system. Certainly they contain [disposable/replaceable] filters/bearings that will cause noise/vibration. I've never attempted repair on Webasto but have certainly done Erberspatcher air tops several times. Sorry if I can't offer more info for you. Best wishes.

See here : https://www.babybmw.net/viewtopic.php?t=81439&start=15 I bought one of these BA5 battery testers about 10 years ago. It correctly reported the F21 as an AGM but of course the GV can NOT deal with AGM. The BA7 can not arbitrarily call it by any other type so DO NOT buy one:: https://www.amazon.co.uk/Clore-Automotive-BA5-100-1200-Electronic/dp/B0017R5EQK I bought a much more up to date battery tester which does much much more including arbitrarily calling the battery an SLI, it was this one : https://www.amazon.co.uk/s?k=outul+KONNWEI+KW210+12V+Automotive+Car+Battery+Tester+Digital+Multi+Language+Analyzer+Tester+Tool&ref=nb_sb_noss

GV's do not like AGM batteries and the Optima is AGM. If memory serves me Chrysler invented 'on alternator logic' as long as the 80's and still use similar set ups of pulse-width modulated (PWM) voltage regulation now. Red Tops are a straight swap big clob starter output, I decided not to use about 6 months after their very successful release because worldwide rhumor at the time said the quality had gone down the toilet, this aH charge duration is usually overcome by run time. In my case not overcome because of what I describe as "lifestyle" or too short too infrequent run time. This time frame coincided with the world and mama Mercel banning the previous virgin lead in SLI batteries and the abortion that is a % of scrapyard lead recycling for the green brigade in the EU. BCM/IPM/button thermocouple under battery sends.uninelligible AGM control info to logic in alternator. I bought an F21 AGM and had charge rate problems everafter. It took me five years to evidence the FACT that the F21 manufactured two identical ID numbers one was AGM/grey the other SLI/black and I have photographic evidence of this. So we all make mistakes. That's what forums are for .. .. to learn from each other. Best of luck.

Used to be £1800-£2000+ for "diagnostic". Grey's in the UK are currently £550+. Readers function very different. Poster below did buy and use but I've no idea if it was CRD. Best of luck. https://www.chryslerforum.com/forum/chrysler-voyager-town-country-21/dealer-level-diagnostic-software-uk-31105/

Sorry DUP, damn VMmedia. REACH rules directive. Lead batteries are already 99% recycled in Europe – one of the highest recycling rates of any product. And advanced lead batteries are used to store renewable energy generated by wind and solar. Day-to-day lead batteries support emergency back-up power in hospitals, mobile phone networks and computer servers which support the internet. The claim is that secondary smelting is of the same high quality as virgin lead. Fake news? industry / EU spin marketing - take your choice. I do clearly recall the outcry about 6 months after the 1st release of spirals claiming they reduced the spec quality on SLI's and made comment on this forum at that time.

Welcome to the forum CRD28AUTO. Infrequent [lifestyle] (charge rate)] use plugues UK CRD-GV's.100% agree with your comment on RedTop's "Quality is not what they used to be" Virgin lead use is heavily penalised by the EU, similarly they legislated for all batteries to contain a % of scrapyard lead. Green policy I suppose.

It's 19/16mm isn't it ?. Gems gonna be stat+ ish, just get a length + a bit. If you chase the correct shape for your specific car there are gonna be lots'nlot's M8.

HiyA karmannski I still miss old Jags and badge engineered Daimler Sovereigns but heck I'm twice their age and long past maintaining one. But but it was nice to run a nice car. Good times eh!

I'm ecumenical about annual service check. I don't do everything every year but I do use the very very best and go the whole hog with a job when it does need doing. Examples would include Hoat05 aniffreeze diluted with distilled water only, fully Sinth engine oil. Never done gearbox oil + filter but only Mopar recommended top end top ups. New front shockers, disks, pads, drop links 5 years ago and ditto rear top hats + all bits plus the always essential, always forgotten "large small parts bag" 2 years ago. It just keeps starting on half-term and gives me what I give it ! Enjoy your GV my friend, if you got a good one, keep it.

Old school 6 fuse wiring is not modern PCi 100% computer data BUS controlled. W124 was both petrol CRD if my memory serves me.Always on by the milli-second software driven constant checks on lights, alarm points, etc are the reason. Ditto the original OEM radio is coded to the BCM module (caveat emptor). The 10/01/2020 RTU 4.2 is a good enough straight swap battery - lifestyle [infrequent daily use] is the killer of all starter batteries on GV's including big Odessy 100+ aH 1000+CCA. Crap handbrick and left clog position are original poor design engineering translations petrol/CDR and LHdrive/RHdrive. Manuals here, Best of luck.

Mine done 7 years ago never [all three, stat button lagging] a problem !

OK ! ELECTRONIC CRUISE CONTROLOn late model vehicles with electronic throttle control, the cruise control system is fully electronic. The cruise control switch on the steering wheel or steering column sends your inputs to the Body Control Module (BCM), which then passes it along to the Powertrain Control Module (PCM), unless the system is wired to send your inputs directly to the PCM via dedicated wiring or the controller area network (CAN) bus. The PCM notes the speed setting you requested when you turned the cruise control system on. It then looks at the actual vehicle speed via the input from the transmission vehicle speed sensor(VSS). The PCM then calculates how much throttle is needed to maintain the requested speed. The PCM then commands the actuator motor on the throttle shaft to open or close the throttle to increase or decrease engine RPM and vehicle speed so the actual speed matches the requested speed. The PCM also monitors inputs from the transmission (so it knows what gear the transmission is in), and the position of the brake pedal (so it can temporarily deactivate cruise control when you step on the brakes). Depending on the sophistication of the system, it may also look at inputs from the ABS (antilock brake) system and/or stability control system. When the cruise control system is engaged, the PCM also monitors the position of the throttle and/or accelerator pedal. If you step on the gas to pass another car, your foot temporarily overrides the cruise control system's set speed. When you release the accelerator pedal, your car will decelerate and resume the previous speed setting. CRUISE CONTROL WON'T ENGAGEThe cruise control system will NOT engage if any of the following conditions are present: * The transmission is in Park, Neutral, Reverse or Low gear * The clutch is disengaged (clutch pedal depressed) * The vehicle is traveling less and 25 to 30 mph (varies depending on year/make/model of vehicle) * The driver is holding his foot on the brake pedal (or the brake pedal switch is showing a constant application of the brakes) * There is no input from the vehicle speed sensor (which will also prevent the speedometer from working) * Engine speed and/or throttle position does not match the commanded position * Electrical voltage to the PCM or other components in the system is too low (less than 9 volts) * The ABS or Traction Control system has been active for more than two seconds (this may vary depending the application) * Vehicle speed is excessive (some cruise control systems are programmed NOT to work above a certain maximum speed for safety reasons (typically 90 mph or faster) * The system's self-diagnostics has detected a fault and set a code. This will deactivate the system and prevent it from functioning until the fault is diagnosed and repaired.

ELECTRONIC CRUISE CONTROL On late model vehicles with electronic throttle control, the cruise control system is fully electronic. The cruise control switch on the steering wheel or steering column sends your inputs to the Body Control Module (BCM), which then passes it along to the Powertrain Control Module (PCM), unless the system is wired to send your inputs directly to the PCM via dedicated wiring or the controller area network (CAN) bus. The PCM notes the speed setting you requested when you turned the cruise control system on. It then looks at the actual vehicle speed via the input from the transmission vehicle speed sensor(VSS). The PCM then calculates how much throttle is needed to maintain the requested speed. The PCM then commands the actuator motor on the throttle shaft to open or close the throttle to increase or decrease engine RPM and vehicle speed so the actual speed matches the requested speed. The PCM also monitors inputs from the transmission (so it knows what gear the transmission is in), and the position of the brake pedal (so it can temporarily deactivate cruise control when you step on the brakes). Depending on the sophistication of the system, it may also look at inputs from the ABS (antilock brake) system and/or stability control system. When the cruise control system is engaged, the PCM also monitors the position of the throttle and/or accelerator pedal. If you step on the gas to pass another car, your foot temporarily overrides the cruise control system's set speed. When you release the accelerator pedal, your car will decelerate and resume the previous speed setting. CRUISE CONTROL WON'T ENGAGEThe cruise control system will NOT engage if any of the following conditions are present: * The transmission is in Park, Neutral, Reverse or Low gear * The clutch is disengaged (clutch pedal depressed) * The vehicle is traveling less and 25 to 30 mph (varies depending on year/make/model of vehicle) * The driver is holding his foot on the brake pedal (or the brake pedal switch is showing a constant application of the brakes) * There is no input from the vehicle speed sensor (which will also prevent the speedometer from working) * Engine speed and/or throttle position does not match the commanded position * Electrical voltage to the PCM or other components in the system is too low (less than 9 volts) * The ABS or Traction Control system has been active for more than two seconds (this may vary depending the application) * Vehicle speed is excessive (some cruise control systems are programmed NOT to work above a certain maximum speed for safety reasons (typically 90 mph or faster) * The system's self-diagnostics has detected a fault and set a code. This will deactivate the system and prevent it from functioning until the fault is diagnosed and repaired.

This ex regular is electronics trained, here is his blog. http://www.thebmwz3.co.uk/2017/12/chrysler-audio-system-amplifier-and.html?m=1 He put a flip up AIO in his GV, I've sat in it, seen it installed and working.

@ 12v you've got only 25% in it @ 11.8v you are 0% as Nev said flat You can subtract a lot of CCA / voltage at current UK temperatures. I'm a ecumenical about big 800/80 big batteries on 2.8 GV's but the won't fit without moddin the battery tray and a very salty price point. The Optima 'RedTop' Spiracell battery - 12V - 50Ah (815cca) is always a good starter battery. YOU make sure it will fit your car and the terminals are the right way round my friend. A brand new pair of linked £600 each batteries will not stay charged if you don't give them frequent long enough trips. Lifestyle (lack of use) is a big killer [flat/sulphates] of GV batteries. Best of luck.

-you are #13 two posts above you in #10 is the picture my friend

PD I normally always associate with the minefield that is the amp in the rear wing. Towing is a favourite attack point for anyone looking to steal a supply of 12v. Many many have aborted headset upgrades and stuck their old infinity OEM set back in. AndyB2000, no longer a regular or GV user, a thoroughly nice bloke is the expert (radio station electronics engineer). You could try to "PING" him on the two Chrysler forums as he's known to occasionally come back here and read the group's, see below: http://www.thebmwz3.co.uk/2017/12/chrysler-audio-system-amplifier-and.html?m=1 Sorry I can't be more helpful my friend.

If you have safe parking you could pull the "shelf" fuse, that would keep you alarmed but reduce other drain. Alternatively I have a 'red key', I never use it because it does TOTAlly isolate your battery.

Starter batteries are simply a purse, a reserve of starting power, the bigger the purse the bigger the reserve, and the longer it takes to refill the purse. At 800CCA and 85aH it takes a long unspecified time with a 160/180a alternator to replace just the one half turn start. Agreed should be ± 25mA, I'd accept a frack either way but not +10. The IPM [fusebox] is often a culprit for leaks but then the whole car function is a PCI BUS just like your computer. What battery ? Standard factory fit radio ? No tow bar or other third party rewire ? Mind you Tim, I've suffered all the 10 years I've had it, but mine is deffo a lifestyle issue. IGNITION-OFF DRAW TEST - reproduced from the workshop manual - According to Chrysler's own workshop manual : Allow twenty minutes for the IOD to stabilize and observe the multi-meter reading. The low-amper- age IOD should not exceed twenty-five milliamperes (0.025 ampere). If the current draw exceeds twenty-five milliamperes, isolate each circuit using the fuse and circuit breaker remove-and-replace process in Step 4. The multi-meter reading will drop to within the acceptable limit when the source of the excessive current draw is disconnected. Repair this circuit as required; whether a wiring short, incorrect switch adjustment, or a component failure is at faultThe term Ignition-Off Draw (IOD) identifies a normal condition where power is being drained from the battery with the ignition switch in the Off position. A normal vehicle electrical system will draw from fifteen to twenty five milliamperes (0.015 to 0.025 ampere) with the ignition switch in the Off position, and all non-ignition controlled circuits in proper working order. Up to twenty-five milliamperes are needed to enable the memory functions for the Powertrain Control Module (PCM), digital clock, electronically tuned radio, and other modules which may vary with the vehicle equipment. A vehicle that has not been operated for approximately twenty one days, may discharge the battery to an inadequate level. When a vehicle will not be used for twenty one days or more (stored), remove the IOD fuse from the Integrated Power Module (IPM). This will reduce battery discharging. Best of luck.

Notoriously well known issue. Old posts here: https://www.chryslerforum.com/forum/chrysler-voyager-town-country-21/fitting-second-thermostat-20480/

andy2000 put a flick up slimline head unit in his. Mind you he's electronics/radio station engineer. Full write up on youtube. See his old posts on this and the other forum.

The ABS is always (software) disabled in any of the 4 sensors are not in its calibration. Gordy is right you need to know which sensor isn't reading the pulse. Cheap part (but not from main stealer) and DIY if you know how. Best of luck.

Get a dScanner on it and it will : - tell you in general if you have a speed sensor off - clear your codes, replace the offending sensor - [known "good starts] will switch off warning light - [known "good starts] will remove "active" codes - [known "good starts] will leave legacy codes intact Best of luck

Gordy, always found the allpar site good for my clue-stick-slap, but not CRD or even Chrysler but all brands are the same parent. One - https://www.allpar.com/forums/threads/removing-the-crankshaft-position-sensor.143426/ Two - https://www.allpar.com/index.php Best of luck lad.