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- [before you start looking for other problems] get the battery fully charged, does it start ? - If your battery is older than 3 years its likely on its last legs - if your battery when new was less than 70/700 its likely underpowered for a CRD GV - if you only do infrequent use & short runs you will forever have starting issues in a GV - lastly if you are having battery problems now in a few short cold weeks you will have no start at all ______________________________ You will get conflicting reports for myself any battery that targets 800CCA/80 [ish], and can, by way of cutting bits off the tray, be made to fit. Throw into the mix for consideration : - lifestyle - frequent use - winter starts - duration [50 miles every other day] of recharge from the alternator - no intervention needed- lifestyle - infrequent use - semi-permanent advanced microprocessor controlled battery charger such as the MXS 5.0 or LiDL eqivalent - intervention needed I had this issue years ago, rang first to check stock, then went to Halfords, ordered their own recommended [put your registration in] 5 year warranted battery the HSB096 @ £129:99 while the nice clepto-cashier lady was emptying my plastic I flicked up the terminal covers to find the Terminals were the wrong way [o O - they should be - O o] round. http://i40.tinypic.com/1y8j2r.gif A 12 year old expert fully trained and certificated male assistant wiped the dribble from his nose and stormed out to my MOTA in the rain which was splattering against his thin bony shoulders making a mess of his over white freshly ironed~by~his~Mother .. .. shirt, all the time asserting in a very authoritative way why I way wrong and why it could not possibly be their 'fittings dBase', his matchstick like thin arms finally managed to lift the bonnet without breaking any of his arms only to find the common standard terminals. I did try to help his embarrassment, honest I did, I even offered him one of my Wurthers Originals and assured him we all make mistakes .. .. its all part of life's long learning .. .. but I still wanted my £230 snots back and I wanted them now. So then I was back to where I started, I never in my life thought buying a correct 'soddin battery would be so much trouble. So don't believe what these 'enter your registration' dataBASE's tell you .. .. they are as good as the wo/man entering the DATA and I found three within minutes that were wrong, and one [in hope more that expectation] that's correct. So I start the search again - this companies dBase correctly identifies the MOTA even listing the correct colour of my car etc and suggests 2 - both in the S range both will do the job , the; S4010 / 12V, capacity 80Ah, cold test current 740A / £72:95 - 5 year warranty - free deliveryS5010 / 12V, capacity 85Ah, cold test current 800A / £87:50 - 5 year warranty - free delivery My one remaining indecision was that though they list 315mm long, 175mm wide, 175mm high, the 315mm is about 27mm / 1.06 inches more than my current battery which will make the 175mm installed height of the battery a full inch closer to the sound deadening material on the underside of the bonnet [radiator side]. Put simply with low mileage runs, infrequent use, high non-use leakage and high in-use [Ah the amount of available energy in the electrical circuit is directly proportional to the capacity of the battery] draw a microprocessor controlled battery charger will deliver the biggest CCA bang on any day of the year at -5°C at a hundred quid. Alternatively a solar charger will replace most of the 'at rest' draw consumed, but can never deliver the 'biggest CCA bang on any day of the year at -5°C'. In the case of frequent long runs a smaller Exide type 96 with the terminals the right way round will suffice with little or no modification of the battery tray 96 is a 'group size' not a brand, .. .. as in Yuasa / Bosch / Varta / Tanya all do a type 96 battery. My quote on Halfords [and others] was to warn that they all have a database where you type in your registration number and they tell you the type / physical size/ terminal / etc for your specific car. Its a load of round rolling things, miles away from optimum, they are useless at finding a big capability battery that will fit - which is why everyone ends up with a wimp of an underpowered tiny thing that fits under the bonnet but will never work in a Grand Voyager.

They are self-bleed via the expansion bottle. Just the usual, take off the pressure cap and wait .. .. a long time. These 2.8 lumps take a very long time to warm and never reach the half-way mark, indeed often bever get past a quarter even in a stonking summer. During this bleeding / burping process the heater setting in the cab should be at its hottest, and the fan should be on in order to clear any trapped air in the heater matrix. You should be able to verify the throughput volume of coolant by looking at the RHS input pipe on the above pic, there should be a steady strong visible squirt every second or so into the expansion bottle and both hoses shoud be hot to the touch indicating that the stat is open, [all stats are fail safe only ever in a open position, yours is supposed to open at 88°C] and that the fluid is going through the heater matrix and the water pump is operating well. Coolant not getting to and through the heater core is a favourite for air locks on any vehicle. Good luck lad !

Bonnet like for like same colour if you are patient from a scrappy 22" 300 big boots at about £50 a corner or buy the whole car for parts for £100

Royston, The RG's are here, the 2.5L/2.8 TURBO DIESEL are in the same pdf under Section 9a. Sorted ! Do what fjinnes suggested and reset the computers by pulling the NEG terminal for 15 minutes then reconnecting, then report back if it does not solve you problem. Your RS T&C 2004 owners manual is here - best of luck !

HiYa T14086 Vauxhall & Ford agreed - I should have said """I've never known one leak in my life other than when people don't use antifreeze :"" or put insufficient in or leave it in until the pH balance turns acidic, becomes overcome with rust, and starts eating the engine from the inside.

A guess core [expansion] plugs, they [cup or domed] are there to stop your engine blowing up under extreme water pressure, bang a screwdriver through them and remove then replace and seal with gasket sealant - I've never known one leak in my life. : http://www.howacarworks.com/illustrations/replacing-core-plugs-283.jpg

Handbricks are a pig : - the handbrake ratchet and travel can be adjusted via a 'clockspring' in the handbrake assembly - there is no adjustment other than the springs and clutch and cable under the handbrick - the clock spring automatically adjusts the park brake [removes the slack only from the cables] its designed to err on the side of never making the shoes bind on the inside wall of the in-hat drum - the actuators are usually seized and need heat / easing oil / swearing and then copperslip, a once in a life of the car £25 renewal of small parts saves time and a lot of grief - the drum in hat handbrick shoe adjuster is usually a knurled nut [fig.13] you can get at through a slot in the rear of the backing plate, are you saying your 07 EuroWagon does not have them ? - the co-effiecieny of the liners, drilling and grooving and all manner of oddball alternatives have been considered by myself - they are just useless even on a non-driven wheel - my conclusion is the whole parking brake arrangement is not fit for purpose for a vehicle of this weight .. .. even when they work the way they should. Best of luck ! http://www.procarcare.com/images/shar/encyclopedia/8852pg28.gif

You're welcome, the even worse issue is that taking the key out while still in the ACC position means all the accessories are still live, meaning in turn a flat battery.

- at least check that their diagnosis is correct, and eliminate the possibility that they are wrong - millions [units of incidence] of door problems worldwide solved in ten minutes - you can do~it~yourself, see this then ask question

Cluster self cal

- what does overheated mean ? how hot / for how long - no excuse for more than 60 seconds, that can kill the oil and then kill the engine - so how hot and how long ? - so between the December repair and now you have had no problems in that 6 months ? - so only in the recent megga hot weeks - and only on an incline - so how hot and how long ? - stat is unlikely, stat is engineered so that if it ever breaks it breaks in an open [never a closed] position - stat is expensive but a cheepo 'in line' stat can be put in by you for £16 and two jubilee clips - head gasket prediction can be cheap tested by a garage or you - radiator prediction test can be cheap tested by a garage - a 'key dance' will give you your P codes, more than P codes and a decent scanner will be needed - water pump - you should be able to hear a metal rattle noise, you can also see lousey flow volume back into the header tank Best of luck .....................

Read this, then read this, then come back and ask questions. Two batteries one of them brand new suggests you are not doing long enough journeys often enough, or you have a serious problem with the alternator or your wiring. Which battery [CCA] did you fit ? Pulling that 20a IOD fuse is not a solution ! - some light reading for you !

All 4th gen Voyagers [01-07] have their fuse box [called an IPM] under the bonnet passenger side. In the fusebox there is an IOD [IGNITION-OFF DRAW] fuse. The 20A IOD - bottom LHS of the pic, note all the fuse & relay locations are inside the lid of the fusebox. The IOD is designed to pull HALF out and rest on a ledge, then pop back in. This pulled fuse disconnects the : Remote key fob Radio Heater blower Folding mirrors Central locks Interior lights when the key is in the ignition The power seat and should reduce the draw. The IOD is removed at the factory by Chrysler and reinstalled at the dealership to avoid draining the battery, and can and should be used for example when leaving it at an airport for a couple of weeks. Another idea would be to fit a big red key. If however you are drawing more than 25mA you should rectify the problem. http://i40.tinypic.com/rc0ufm.jpg

One 'smoggy' says to another .. .. .. HiYa Gadge, If you scroll to the bottom of this page there's a huge repository of knowledge and pictorial represented info. Still the warning in #8 on non-Euro information applies. Mine and most from 05 onward [05 for the first half of 2005 & 55 for the second half of 2005] also has a 6 disk CD auto-changer P05064003AH, as far as I'm aware all the limited editions have both the DVD head unit and extra separate 6 CD changer. Idea's here for which overhead unit you have, in this case they are all factory Mopar units. Put up a photo of the overhead and the remote control and assuming they are factory units we will try to work out for you which dual channel IR phones you need.

You will get conflicting reports and opinions on what is the best battery .. .. for myself any battery that targets 800CCA/80 [ish], and can, by way of cutting bits off the tray, be made to fit. A rock and a hard place is where you start with a 3 litre compression engine in a UK winter. So throw into the mix for consideration : - lifestyle - frequent use - winter starts - duration [50 miles every other day] of recharge from the alternator - no intervention needed - lifestyle - infrequent use - semi-permanent advanced microprocessor controlled battery charger use - such as the MXS 5.0 or LiDL equivalent - intervention needed - target the flooded lead acid commercial not retail battery sector - target a unit price of £100 [ish] or buy an Optima 'absorption Glass Mat' at around £150 (-) Ignore most online dBase where you put your REG in and it tells you what type / physical size/ terminal / etc for your specific car. Its a load of round rolling things, miles away from optimum, they are useless at finding a big CCA capability battery that will fit, which is why everyone ends up with a wimp of an underpowered tiny thing that will fit under the bonnet but will never work in a Grand Voyager. Put simply with low mileage runs, infrequent use, high non-use leakage and high in-use [Ah the amount of available energy in the electrical circuit is directly proportional to the capacity of the battery] draw a microprocessor controlled battery charger will deliver the biggest CCA bang on any day of the year at -5°C at a hundred quid. Alternatively a solar charger will replace most of the 'at rest' draw consumed, but can never deliver the 'biggest CCA bang on any day of the year at -5°C'. I dislike 'red tops', although the price has come down by 30% over the last 2 years, others speak well of them and they will fit~first~time assisted by the central position of the terminal post location. http://www.taynagroup.co.uk/common/attributes/centreline-layout.jpg

Take the key out properly ........................ http://i.imgur.com/ECjjUgE.png Key all the way anti-clockwise, then one forward to the LOCK position.

REK - this is the one that should be in all Euro GV's from 05 onward, and is the one in my car. I always [they have done this before] suspected that some jiggery-pokery has been done by Chrysler, different country's laws permit and outlaw different capabilities not the least of which is our wonderful European Union. The scanner reads mine as an REK, not an RBK, and sure enough although it has no markings on the front it does have the 7th extra button but does not have the REK logo printed [top LHS in this pic] anywhere on the head unit. I make the assumption that the 'E' stands for the Euro-spec and that the REK joins the RBQ, RB4, RAH and REV as [hardware] unable to play MP3's because of the separate 6 disk changer unit logic and wiring. Notably this was the year that all settings, both factory and customer preference were written to the EEPROM and even the identify model/part number for repair exchange order processing could be done without having to remove the radio and the world car market was moving away from 6/10 disk changers to navigation systems in high end cars. The REK's were in addition to Chrysler - Jeep - Dodge also fitted in Mitsubishi's of the same years. http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v111/Oelkaennchen/Radiofront.jpg RBK - the is the non-EURO RBK version, is not the one in my car, the Huntsville RBK and has only 6 buttons. Its confusing, most of any info is only available on American sites and they will never have seen the Euro Wagon spec stereo heads, and would never need to - why would they ! For example there's zero on the REK and yet there must be millions in scrapyards from Belgium to Birmingham, equally there's zero on the REK on any site in the world including Europe which is precisely where in the world they were all shipped to and sold in, and in the case of the REK Chrysler broke their own golden 3 letter rule and did not put the sales code on the front of the set. There seem to be different three letter sales codes, but whatever it is its clearly a version of the RAZ additionally the head [pic #3] seems to have been manufactured in Hungary not Huntsville. The RBU and RAZ are almost completely identical in appearance. Every single button and control is the same (except that the Eject button is above or below the time setting buttons); the graphics are identical but in different locations. You’d never know the RAZ was a Mitsubishi while the RBU is an Alpine. (Jim Z. also noted that the RBU is the same as the RBP stereo, except the RBU has dual play capability and a transmitter for headphones, so you can play the radio over the speakers while listening to a CD on headphones. That means I could just as easily have used an RBP.)

Yes you could use the full workshop manuals ranging from 82-2009, and in particular the diesel manual

Vibrate not wobble sounds like your ABS / EBD was cutting in a self check occurs each time the vehicle is started and accelerated past approximately 15 mph - so do you get an ABS light warning http://www.youfixcars.com/images/ford-abs-light.jpg ?. Wobble would be warped disks, worn bushes, even tyre pressures, and a tyre 'bleb'.

- two screws - top cover plate off - pop the locking cam - pull the [plastic] chain free - mini screwdriver pop the clips on the chain - find and repair the break, 15 minutes tops - test & reverse to put everything back, test again Sorted

If it really is fitted with an 05 box it will have a 41TE fiited, see here : https://www.youtube.com/playlist?list=PL585FDC54E0414A2E and here : http://www.allpar.com/mopar/transmissions/41TE.html - MOD - can't just highlight and paste a linky - it does not show up properly in 'preview', in which case what's the point of a pre viewer that does not work ?

Both went on the same day - are you sure you have not switched them off at the dimmer switch ? - the RHS vertical one ? http://i.imgur.com/lGdb2Iu.png

No.