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This [below] is the clockspring under the lever, here's one of many treads on whole thread on the subject. Fraggle6 do what I suggested in #6 and let the group know how you got on, if it doesn't compensate for the Y in the two cables [differential] then you are going to have to get the car on stands and do the full service. http://i.imgur.com/VBKOhXq.jpg Fragglesix9

- engine running - footbrake [servo] applied hard - grab handbrake, button permanently in, 6 to 10 hard pulls one after the other - let go of handbrake in the off position - release foot from the footbrake - switch engine off, make coffee, read newspaper, handbrake is auto-adjusted

Launch x431 Diagun - used to be £400 on a grey you can now get a Diagun 2 on a legit non-grey with a 3 year update system for the same price because the Diagun is a discontinued Launch item.

Thanks for your response ben, best of luck with your forum then my friend.

I'm happy to be corrected, but as far as I'm aware the second under dash fusebox was never installed after 2004 builds so I would not expect to find one in your GV.

The fuse box is called the IPM and is the black plastic box next to the battery. The detail is in this manual. The inside of the IPM box lid tells you the value of all the components inside it, the components look like the below : http://ww2.justanswer.com/uploads/MO/molurch/2014-01-08_040853_iod.png

You need 2 things : - your stat is not working : - the temp gauge should be at just under 1/2 summer & winter - a stat will always break [by design] in an open position - you can fit an 'in-line stat' easier than the 'pig' that is the proper stat Quinton Hazell 210 Thermostat Opening Heat --- 82 deg CSize A = Across ring --- 48mm.Size B = Below ring --- 32.5mm.Size C = Bottom ring --- 28.5mm http://www.micksgarage.com/img/td/57/l/qth210k-1.jpg - and : - you need to blank the radiator grill in these UK temps - a workable, quick, and less than 2 quid radiator blank from Screwfix is pipe lagging http://i.imgur.com/9SgNcwx.jpg

Usually just the resistor, see below for test & replacement. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wsazws_za4k

HiYa Ben, This forum it seems would benefit its users and indeed its hundreds of lurkers if the administrator made live the (1) 'edit' ~ and ~ (2) 'search' facility [button]. For one of many many example(s) a post on RedTops can not easily be found because it can't be searched for, similarly information now coming out on the ½ life span of the spiral red tops could easily be updated in the same # № of the same thread, but again no edit facility means a new post on the subject in a different place. In that same # № and thread with winter now here, other information on cold start, battery selection, Li-ion boost starting, desulfating etc in the same thread so that those with this problem can find most of what they want in a 'one stop shop' This could expand in the one place to include10 minute stat replacement, winter tyres, rad blanking, winter MPG improvement, Webasto issues etc. Just a suggestion .........................................

- no - because its a [water] heater for the engine not a cabin [air] heater - its unlikely, the switch on / off codes and parameters are set by the vehicle via the BCM software - and because its a [water] heater for the engine not a cabin [air] heater, there would be little benefit You can buy mains electric blankets for the battery, and even 'block heaters' [like a mains hair drier] for the whole engine block. The Auxiliary Heater on this vehicle is an automotive version of a Webasto Thermo Top what you appear to want is a Webasto Air Top. Alternatively Erberpatcher AirTronic's are fitted to millions of buses, ambulances, gas board etc vans in the UK.

The test - pump the hand primer pump until it is hard - does it start now ? http://www.lcool.org/technical/120_series/fuel_filter/filter2a.jpg - if it starts after hand priming, its a leak in the LP fuel side - air leaks in and the fuel lesks back to your tank - eliminate 'leakback' first - the 'spin~on' fuel filter is not tight enough - the 'spin~on' water trap is not tight enough - tighten them up ! - could be dozens of things including leakback - eliminate 'leakback' first - hand primer is centre of engine area , take off the plaggi cover you will see it - pump it, does it get hard in 3-5 pumps ? - does the car start ok when its hand pumped ? Best of luck !

- get some lagging from Screwfix 99p a length - cut to fit in the grill - throw away come summer - do the same next year - putting a new stat in is a pigs job - fit an inline stat - 20 minutes - £20 - GATES Part Number TH01489 from rockauto uk - temp should be just under 1/2, any less than that and you will never get heat regardless - quick school runs only and you will never get heat from the big engine lump

Its £6.40 @ trade where I go local and exactly £7.59 retail delivered. All years manuals are here . HIYa Steve Crees - ! Select from here, the 2.8 [and 2.5] TURBO DIESEL diesel is here. You will find the head bolts at section > 9 - 16 ENGINE. Remember Chrysler say new cylinder head bolts must be used you will find the sequence in section > ENGINE 9 - 29

£17 free delivery or if you have a trade account get it direct from Blue Print. Its so cheap on Amazon you would save less than two quid going trade.

All manuals are here all service manuals are here, key dance [will not do transmission codes] is here. Auto gearbox's I'm sure you will agree are in the realms of the 'dark arts department' most of us don't really understand them since the invention of [computer run solenoids] the CANBUS and then the different speed hybrid PCi & CANBUS's running at different speeds moderated by the BCM and routed by the PCM in the same vehicle. I've always tried to avoid 'parts darts' without an accurate starting point which is a competent 'read' of the 41TE errors. Most of the A604 / 41-TE shifting issues are here. The bottom line is you really can't afford not to have the transmission read properly before spending any money otherwise it would be parts darts my friend. At £6 a litre an ATF +4 change is always a bet - but a good one - its the number one failure reason. Many small indi's will have a capable reader for your year vehicle at about £35 a pop but you will have to ring round and ask : - chrysler- year- 41TE NOTE : I'd pin down any so called expert by pre-buying and supplying ATF +4 and insisting on its use. I've met many so called good well intentioned experts who really do believe that ATF without the +4 will do because its cheaper and they make more [profit] margin. Best of luck.

Workshop manual, they are almost impossible to find particularly the diesel.

Underneath the car, or underneath the dashboard - have you looked / listened under the car ?

The power seats are fused by a 30 amp circuit breaker located under the driver’s seat, 8 or 4 way the adjusters are on the seat itself. http://i.imgur.com/SBzmaez.png

As far as I'm aware its spin-on can only for the 2.8. I think the 2.5 marine engine has an in tank filter, but I've never worked on one so don't know for certain.

Webasto, lives underneath the car, pre-heats water. Money well spent.

As far as I'm aware only the [relevant] drivers is lit on the [drivers] side.

blower resistor is bad see

see

- pull the IOD fuse each night instead, it does the same thing but is easier - much easier, it has a special 'ledge' to rest the fuse on, and push it back home in the morning - is your AUX heater, and is normal. A separate Webasto diesel water heater under the car comes on and switches off under its own control when cold. The "" about 10 minutes"" is the heater exhausting its un-burnt fuel after you switch off

Battery choice, like choosing a wife, provokes different opinions on what is beautiful. The issue however are simple. You should be looking for about 800CCA over 80aH, this is a physical size that will not fit the CRD battery tray, so get a big one and modify the tray, or get a smaller one and take your UK winter chances. There is a~n~other UK issue of lifestyle, its a use it or lose it condition. If like me you do 2000 miles per annum with two 15 minutes trips once a week you will regardless of battery size / cost never keep that battery charged, the BUS [over 7 or so days] at resting will use more than the 30 minutes the alternator was able to replace. Different people have success with different batteries, I'm sure the UK users will come to your aid with their suggestions, particularly the Scottish contingent who have an even colder climate than I. For myself I originally had a Banner Uni Bull 690 over 70 and my replacement was a Bosch S5 Type 96 at 800 over 80. Best of luck. Lifestyle : Two 15 minutes trips once a week. The higher the voltage applied, the faster the battery will charge, charging at too high a voltage WILL damage your battery. A simple 100Ah open lead acid battery and a 180A charger connected to the battery discharged to 50% : - @ 50% full @ 13.2V current was 35A- @ 50% full @ 14,8V current was 160A [improvement of 457%]- @ 75% full @ 13.2V current was 1A- @ 75% full @ 14.8V current was 60A [improvement of 6000%] - two 15 minute periods @ 13.2V is 2 x 15 minute @ 21Ah, compared to ;- two 15 minute periods @ 14.4V is 2 x 15 minute @ 60Ah, is an improvement of about 300% The temperature sensor under the battery will drop [ temperature compensator's on modern alternators will compensate] the voltage output from about 14.0V to about 13.2V. The problem I have with this is the engine compartment soon reaches temp and the battery assumes its fully charged. - 13.20 volts is about what you would expect from [split diode - does not apply to Voyagers, and] this vehicle with a temp sensor & alternator compensator- 14.00 volts is about what you would expect from any typical alternator without a vehicle temp sensor & alternator compensator- 14.40 volts is what you would expect from a sealed lead acid to prevent [they tend to gas @ 50ºC] excessive gassing- 14.80 volts is what you can risk pushing it to with an open lead acid to prevent damage to other equipment connected to the battery at the same time NOTE01 : I wouldn't buy one, or use one, but in the interests of even handed-ness a spiral will do the job - make sure you get the right 'posts' for your type !NOTE02 : This vendor is cheaper, considerably cheaper for the spiral.NOTE03 : There are IOD 7 functions that are 'live' when you think your car and battery are asleep, they pull a combined 0.025 ampere draw. I used a Maplins cheepo solar panel which cost me £15 at the time, and I have never been unable to start the car since. IGNITION-OFF DRAW TEST - reproduced from the workshop manual - NOTE - My Bold. The term Ignition-Off Draw (IOD) identifies a normal condition where power is being drained from the battery with the ignition switch in the Off position. A normal vehicle electrical system will draw from fifteen to twenty five milliamperes (0.015 to 0.025 ampere) with the ignition switch in the Off position, and all non-ignition controlled circuits in proper working order. Up to twenty-five milliamperes are needed to enable the memory functions for the Powertrain Control Module (PCM), digital clock, electronically tuned radio, and other modules which may vary with the vehicle equipment. A vehicle that has not been operated for approximately twenty one days, may discharge the battery to an inadequate level. When a vehicle will not be used for twenty one days or more (stored), remove the IOD fuse from the Integrated Power Module (IPM). This will reduce battery discharging. Excessive IOD can be caused by: • Electrical items left on. • Faulty or improperly adjusted switches. • Faulty or shorted electronic modules and components. • An internally shorted generator. • Intermittent shorts in the wiring