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No its a toy., and a cheap one at that. Some cars are easy others near on impossible without 1/2 decent kit. My advice is if its free give it a shot, you never ever know, you might get lucky.The thing is there are x4 types of codes x2 of them can be read by anything one set can even be read and printed out in your dashboard by your IGN key. So some are are quite successful even in cheap readers but most of your problems are related to manufacturer codes and that needs a diagnostic scanner that will work to manufacturers protocols. Even a low level problem like your doors has a heck of a lot of levels and components and manufacturers programming input for example a Haynes manual covers every part of a whole car in 100 pages your doors alone are 200 pages in the Chrysler workshop manual.

Oh no not the Voodoo car from hell. If I had 20 scanners and 20 time served master mechanics each with 50 years experience available for a month we would never get info from that car. I'd stand more chance with a Whiccan doll, a bucket of sharp pins, some eye of newt, a devils mark and two spare agents of the devil and some Voodoo stones. Yes I'll meet you somewhere on the 19 or the [GNR] 1. The Quayside is about 50 miles north of me mate.

My mate lives just north north of London on the Cambridge corridor, I live in the Boro, you are welcome to (2) a free read and code clears where they exist. Most code readers won't read Chrysler you need at least a good scanner. There's no such thing as a good scanner costing less than a £housand or £500 on a 'grey'. Long shot is - reset the computers by pulling the POS terminal for 16 minutes. Best of luck. [Caveat Emptor on any 2004 radio code issue]

Apologies to Martyn, the reply intended for this # went to this one by mistake. - Now moved here ! Lots of opinionated opinion and two specifics - battery fits & the 'buttonMOD'. All Chrysler fused battery positive voltage is supplied to almost everything through the analogue Inte-grated Power Module [iPM] before it goes to the critical digital FCM [Front Control Module]. That fusebox is not what it appears to be but is several 'layered' PCB's with pins stcking up through one or more PCB's into what you call the fusebox, the amount of potential for shorted, verdigreased, cancered wiring and bad connections suggest that the 'hinged book' underside of the IPM should always be checked.Image Image On CCA a simplistic and non techie answer - CCA is how much it your battery can supply in a short burst to start your car - aH is the total time it can supply it for until its dead. There are plenty of UK threads on the subject in this forum, different people have different outcomes, opinions and lifestyles but all agree that a good battery in good nick is an absolute in the UK. Batteries have an amazingly short lifespan, stick an undersized battery on an oversized job and it will shorten its lifespan correspondingly but not in a linear way in other words the three year expected lifespan can come down to one year in just six months. "It takes a lot longer to fully charge a modern car battery than many people realise – typically 240 miles of driving with no load or eight hours of continuous driving - not as millions claim Oh! about 15 minutesd mate ! - which can unfortunately lead to problems. This old Yorkshire-man's view on deep cycle wet-flooded needs to be related to newer tech. New tech such as AGM's and spirals can 'soak up' to 40% their available capacities rather than the 25% of the older tech. And there we have the nub of it .. .. this CRD car designed for spark not compression has a diesel engine with a petrol standard battery which to me appears to be not fit for purpose in that first place On my first experience with the GV battery replacement. Rang first to check stock, then went to Halfords, ordered their own recommended [put your registration in] 5 year warranted battery the HSB096 @ £129:99 while the nice clepto-cashier lady was emptying my plastic I flicked up the terminal covers to find the Terminals were the wrong way [o O - they should be - O o] round. Posted Image A 12 year old expert fully trained and certificated male assistant wiped the dribble from his nose and stormed out to my MOTA in the rain which was splattering against his thin bony shoulders making a mess of his over white freshly ironed by his Mother .. .. shirt, all the time asserting in a very authoritative way why I way wrong and why it could not possibly be their 'fittings dBase', his matchstick like thin arms finally managed to lift the bonnet without breaking any of his arms only to find the common standard terminals. I did try to help his embarrassment, honest I did, I even offered him one of my Wurthers Originals and assured him we all make mistakes .. .. its all part of life's long learning .. .. but I still want my £230 snots back and I want them now. So now I'm back to where I started, I never in my life thought buying a correct 'soddin battery would be so much trouble. My word what a catalogue of eejits, they listed a 315mm long, 175mm wide, 175mm high, the 315mm is about 27mm / 1.06 inches more than my current battery which will make the 175mm installed height of the battery a full inch closer to the sound deadening material on the underside of the bonnet [radiator side]. So look make you won mind up - for myself - don't believe what these 'enter your registration' dataBASE's tell you .. .. they are as good as the wo/man entering the DATA and I've found three tonight alone that were wrong including EuroParts, they'll flog you anything in hope more that expectation that will fit their abc size dimension model and take you money, they care not at all about what you want, have no interest in pole placement or CCA or anything else - do not believe the dataBase they all use the same CD and they are all wrong, even when they claim to check your VIN number. On chonking the tray The FCM needs to be taken out and re situated and the FCM armoured shield needs to be removed completely. [see below pics]http://oi41.tinypic.com/2mpbimv.jpghttp://oi41.tinypic.com/16gbn8h.jpgIts not a big job I pulled the Mopar connector carefully after completely disconnecting both battery terminals. The battery then comes out and the tray also comes out. I used an angle grinder and cut the front lip of the tray out and the rear 'hold down' of the S6 battery. [see below pic]http://oi44.tinypic.com/fmria0.jpg While I was in there I opened 'swing up and to the left' the IPM and soft brass brushed everything and used a tin of military grade Novec to clean the terminals and connectors as best I could. Reversal was easy, the FCM shield was not replaced and the only issue was that thee terminals on the S6 were the wrong way round and even at a stretch [stretching a loom is a very bad thing] would not reach. I'd already bought a Big Red 200A Key and extended the cables and battery clamps to size so that any battery regardless of orientation would fit and I'd have an extra layer of security because the 3 second act of popping the key in my pocket would leave the car disabled without taking out the battery. On the buttonMOD I'll have to re-think this and post later, essentially thanks to a poster named Leedsman with a background in electronics, he made a simple mod that meant the current thinking of a charge rate of 14v- would be over-ridden to return us to the old school standard of 14.5v+ by the simple insertion of an 18p resistor from Maplins into the charging circuit. he and others did the MOD without risk, without 'gassing' and the charge time in minuted was considerably reduced. I'll need to find the original information in order to honestly report on it. LeedsMans exact words were : Thanks to Leedsman http://i.imgur.com/DKa3lr6.pngIts long winded and covers a lot of areas hopefully someone will benefit. I never needed the buttonMOD because I ran a solar charger but I will try to test the MOD and post the info for anyone who needs it.

Edited and moved elsewhere !

Chonking the battery tray was no biggie I'll find some pics over the next few days and post a walkthrough. On battery's the spiral red tops are a no mod needed good replacement, I prefer big 80/800 battery's and having already been caught out with a crap brand new S6 so I've revised my opinion I'd now go for a BLUE Varta F18 which is the same battery as the Merc AMG and the big BMW's. Posts & other physical characteristics here. Battery makers hide the manufacture dates from everyone and motorist shops and e-tailers often have them in stock for two winters. The BMW F18 I boughty has the date code reassuringly stamped on both posts.

They have a hand parking brake, not a hand emergency brake. A Pawl engages with the shift lever when its in park mode only on both column and floor-shift models and is controlled by software, hence the reason you can only engage it at stand still. The reason is .. .. the American idea became a registered American standard that then went world wide about 60 years ago. The lousy brakes however are real on these vans for the reasons already given, but are good enough to easily pass a UK MOT. I've long preferred inboard disk park brakes although many people hate them too, as they do e-brakes.

You're welcome my mate !

The testers manual might give the figures but the bottom line is the both the parking and the road brakes are too small and always were, they have since been uprated to larger sizes in since our models were introduced. You could consider the park brake as a sort of emergency brakeNo this is the issue my friend, it is not an emergency brake at all. Its designed to lock two wheels only and only after the vehicle is already stationary and there is no wheel rotation resistance. It is not meant to be used when the car is rolling. It .. .. if that use was ever re-instated would lock up the rear wheels making the car go out of control, which is what used to happen in the olden days. Best of luck my friend.

Park brakes are for parking as in engine off and gear-locked transmission and originally designed 60 or so years ago for a long fulcrum American foot-lever applied brake lever. our short lever degree of 'arm pull' arc is never going to equate to the degree of body-weight kick-on brake of the American system. The British ton is 2240Lbs and the American short-ton is 2000Lbs, this is one heck of a lump of heavy metal. The vehicle only ever becomes immovable with a transmission lock. RPM sound right, its the usual mental transition people need to make who have not driven an auto, particularly one of this weight. The handrick is absolutely pathetic. From a UK point of view we tend to have grown up with a pull on brake which is exactly what this is not - its a parking brake. I live minutes from here and travel on a weekly basis. This portion is [7.5% on the strava segment gradient] a 1 in 4 gradient, my own formative years were at the bottom of a 1 in 3. My point is in a very long lifetime I have never needed to kamikaze any road journey till the GV. Its something we all cope with but the pre-realisation that once you commit down or uphill in any gear to these types of road in our GV's ramming it into a wall is in the event of power loss your only option. I never found a solution, if you apply more adjustment to the shoes they will bind, in a non-sliding shoe arrangement you could / should re-adjust after 'bedding in' for the best results after the new shoes have ground down the linings to the precise drum diameter to reduce the shoes tendency to 'grab' on the leading edge when over-adjusted on the knurled adjuster. In short the design has a bias to assist in reverse rather than forward and to allow the operator to engage or disengage a gear - hence the reason you can't even start the car without applying the footbrake in the first place. best of luck.

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I only do about 2.5k max per annum and do oil & filter every 3 years whether it wants it or not I always use the best fully synth. I bought x4 5 litre bottles about 3 years ago of the Asda Gold [widely regarded as Castrol made] stuff at half the price of Castrol Edge while it was going cheap, did an oil change and I've still got x3 bottles left - how I wish we could all get our hands on more of that 'right price'. Give your engine the best and expect the best in return, that of course is change frequency dependant, if 'tomada3' is on a 13 week cycle that's expensive but we each decide what is critical to us. http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v25/stationmiek/photo/P1010554.jpg

In general the brakes and all suspension parts on these cars need an upgrade rather than just replacement. I've said many times, the brakes ..... all of them are a useless and underrated throwback to the American old she brake - pre-disk ratings requirement as is evidenced by the fact that at the same weight of vehicle the Dodge Chrysler Jeep stable enjoy the safety and performance of bigger 310's all round as a minimum from 2008. The 310's have a healthy aftermarket upgrade supply the 302's never did and 7 years on never will. I did my back brakes a couple of month ago REM and they were disgusting, embarrassing even, my bet would be that many many people are driving on rivets, rusted to hell and back and have been for years because most of us never pull the hat and certainly a garage won't go to that much extra trouble. Bottom line - apart from the obvious is that a complete small parts bag change, liberal copperslip, and a complete back to bright metal is and essential need before a pads and shoes are fitted. The Voyager clock-spring is often a last resort on handbrick adjustment. http://i.imgur.com/VBKOhXq.jpg For the 'pull' adjustment I always : - car in park - engine on - footbrake hard on [centring] - then 5 or 6 very hard yuks on the handbrick lever to adjust the clockspring compensator as well as the shoes~in~hat Take care folks.

ABS monitors the sensors, and the TRAC reduces engine power and / or temporarily applying the brakes to that wheel to help that wheel / the car re-gain control - no ABS info - so it switches TRAK off.

You are right to eliminate the sensor before going further, Its usually one of the x4 wheel sensors http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/I/417dKYISEnL.jpg - the second and less likely cause could be dirty phonic / tone rings on drive shafts- but usually the magnetic pickup shown below, usually you will not see damage to the black plastic coated sensor even if it is present- the easiest way is to find and test the particular sensor to see if it works. Do you know anyone with a diagnostic scanner capable of reading ABS on your year Chrysler ? I'm assuming your multimeter is auto ranging let us know here and we will tell you how to set the meter up : - you are testing ohms not volts- if you are in the UK start NSF 1st then OSF- you put the probes one on each pin - on the wheel side not the harness side- all x4 wheels should get around a steady read between 800 to 1800- the pins should be agnostic - make no difference which way round they are- if one reading on one wheel goes ever upward [not steady] its the one that needs replacing- if you do the other wheel you should get a similar variance on each wheel you test- flea-bay about £30 main-stealer about £80, both work ok, the Mopar part of course being the best risk Here's a walkthrough mate, best of luck. http://i.ebayimg.com/00/s/MTE4NFgxNjAw/z/h~cAAMXQVT9SzBL1/$_57.JPG

The existing GV speakers are not wired to the head-unit in the centre console, they are wired to the AMP itself [Rear / Front + left / Right] which is how you get the 4 way balancing. So you will have to wire x2 new sets of pairs from your new head unit to the AMP and your original output wires to the speakers for a 4 way speaker system (compliments of tfb). As crispinchurch said that's just the start of it. Best of luck !

The existing GV speakers are not wired to the head-unit in the centre console, they are wired to the AMP itself [Rear / Front + left / Right] which is how you get the 4 way balancing. So you will have to wire x2 new sets of pairs from your new head unit to the AMP and your original output wires to the speakers for a 4 way speaker system (compliments of tfb). As crispinchurch said that's just the start of it. Best of luck !

Yep certainly can, I've had em off and on since the 60's, but I am always aware that a forum is a 2 way COMMS and while I've prolly done close to 9,000,000 miles in that lifetime I learn things every day on forums so never be afraid to ask.

Is exactly what its supposed to do my friend, lots of reasons, including a hill start.

'' smoke coming from under the car, auxiliary heater was running at the time '' Where do you think this exhaust smoke is coming from ?

HiYa Daz, Yes precisely because our forcourt fuels already have the additives in them. So yes all fuel in the UK and most developed countries is regulated - so you are already using additives, in fact you can not buy fuel without the additives already in them. The 'premium' brands for example have even more additives in them, of course they cost 12 to 14p more per litre, add another £24 per fill up for your BG244 and that's one hell of a price for a tank of fuel. That's why It's 'snake oil' for most of the driver population - because it costs a mint and does not work. It's your car Daz, your choice. Take care !

My view. To try a fix for a specific problem. and very occasional use only, if for example you can't afford to have known to be dirty injectors in the particular cleaned properly. Older motors say earlier than 02, and those who live in Kazakhstan and can only get hold of non-regulated dirty fuel may also benefit from mechanic~in~a~can products after the 02 year. Enhanced fuel and improved injector design have largely done for the myth of fuel and particularly oil additives. A 10 minute Italian tune up will usually do the same job. The bottom line is no manufacturer in the history of man ever recommended the use of a fuel additive, and most manufacturers specifically warn against its use. Best of luck.

My 05 41TE gearbox 'learns'. If you bought it from a heavy footer you may be on his mixed driving style MPG. The much later ZF's do the same thing. The O/P's 08 will be a 6 speed 62TE which was basically the same as my 41TE with two new primary and and an extra secondary ratio for motorway highs and a lower 1st for acceleration. I don't know for a fact but I imagine the whole range from GEN 4 to now were / are on adaptive learning.

Two quid radiator blank from screwfix, works ok, is reversible, not worth the toerags stealing them. It will more than half the warm up time and saves you MPG as well as heat. 10 minutes of your time with a kitchen knife is all it takes. Andy you already know how to do the £10 quid all in 'inline stat trick, 15 minutes of your time. Best of luck.

- smoke coming for the under side of the car - auxiliary heater was running at the same time !