QinteQ

My MaxiDAS708 will code, my x431 will not, as nev says its not the person its the kit. Most mobile key techies use a keys only specific tool that does not do immobiliser, ECU and remote's. Just ask anyone you choose to use if they can do what you want them to do - and - if they won't charge you anything if they can't do the job you are paying for.

Minimum Oil Pressure (Warm) - at Idle 0.7 Bar at 3800 RPM 2.5 Bar is for an 08+ , get your year manual here.

- FOB can not be duplicated / married even with a [panic] sixth button FOB, without a decent diagnostic scanner capable of writing code,

- check the chain-links driven by the powerlift mech, spazza scooters use the same chain No CHN-HD2548 - the master link only No HD25ML - the half link No CHN-HL - the one and a half link is No No CHN25LHL Slack off @ the top to get a bit of space, dremel out, re-fit, tighten up, best of luck.

HiYa Nev, putting a new earth on can be any clean bolt to any clean bolt on the gearbox itself. Even so called re-manufactured TCM's as with any [ECM etc] brain can mean different things, (1) most just swap out (2) some bench test connections only and the (3) good expensive ones re-code on your known VIN via the TECHauthority. Best of luck.

HiYa Nev, yeh the PCM is a pig, most changed PCM's were not faulty, and by definition most replacement PCM's [other than re-manufactured ones] are clearly a guess - either good or faulty. I posted pics on this site of the minefield that is the underside and attached loom bundle of the PCM somewhere.

Is yours a 604 or a 41-TE ? The A-604 was the 'betweenie' just before the improved 41-TE where solenoids replaced computer driven servo's which lowered the torque under gear change to prevent inadequate hydraulic filling time [to each gear chamber] to engage clutch. So it was an awkward time when the manufacture went from America / Chrysler to Europe / Daimler and the 604 was already known to have a 'filling time' issue. I always think in terms of money & ability. Its a well founded fact that a change of ATF-4+ can give life to a previously diagnosed as dead trannie, and that pulling the pan and see if there's metal in it can tell you the worst early to avoid 'parts darts'. Because the 604 had a habit of blowing the planetary gear to hell I'd pull the pan and see if there's metal in it. That way I've eliminated one very big question. ____________________________ The 99-02's were either OSF engine bay or NSF inside the car under the trim. You have to REM that these designed cars would for example be under the trim [American] drivers side, all they did was relocate the steering & pedal arrangement. Find your year and look for a schematic location.

Do you mean it will only go in 2nd & reverse or it won't go into 2nd & reverse at all in which case its not an electrical control problem and likely to be knackered gearbox. R D N & Park are human manual, the others are TCM or EATx for the diesel. Pull the sump and see if its full of 'planet' swarf metal ! There's not much other than DRB's & StarScans that will read that box - what diagnostic scanner did you use ? Have a look here for the gearbox earth COMM's issue

Its telling you an / either / or on the CCD, TCM or PCM and code 1850 is related to the transmission control module. 1850 is 'no I/P cluster CCD message messages'. CCD just means the two wire comms wire from the BCM. - 1850 however can be related to 1686 which is a SKIM code error from the immobiliser - 1850 as you know, is the MIC module [mechanical instrument cluster] CCD error via the BCM - 1850 is also related to the EATx transmission module - see

Cold water hits hot piston and explodes carbon. Oil does not rust engine but water will. We are all cast block & alloy head high compression modern 4-stroke diesel engines these days, You would have to get those particles down to nano-sized to get them to pass through piston heads, rings, valves, and out through exhaust manifold, the cat and the whole exhaust.I don't want water in any part other than the cooling. Certainly if you did explode carbon - where is it going to go - have you thought this my friend ?

The 62TE first came available from 2007, but not put into minivans and our Voyagers till later, there's not even a dipstick on the 6 speed, again ATF+4 only and not Dextron 3. The 4 speed 41TE's in the 2.8CRD have been around for 30+ years and are well regarded as reliable. Most box's are killed by dirty oil, dirty means not per the spec on the already coded computer map. Most knackered box's can be brought back to life simply with £100 quids worth of new oil & filter. Its expensive, but essential to eliminating most codes, the car's computers will then work with what it knows to be the right oil map. Best of luck leeoliver 2010.

There's nothing at all wrong with a suggestion, this is a forum. All advocates provide opinion, all those with an opposing view provide opinion. Most so called science in favour of these additives is paid for by the people who profit from selling the 'snake oil', and most so called reviews are paid for infomercials or forum shills paid for by the people who profit from selling the 'snake oil'. Only the engine manufacturer knows what's safe and should be used ... and says so. At the end of the day people have choices, I'd hate the idea that anyone compromises the reliability of their engine going off half-cocked especially when they do it believing they are giving it extra protection when they are doing the opposite. To make a change to the expected 'mapping' of a 'smart trannie would be to invite disaster, that's not an exaggeration, just a fact. The 41TE is a smart trannie, its actually run by a computer equipped with on-board diagnostics right there in your unit that changes and makes learning decisions by the minute, any reading, any malfunction will throw up a code or it will try and compensate for example in this case in a dramatic change in the existing ATF+4 viscosity. Best of luck.

HiYa Junglehead, A change of trannie oil, just that, clean trannie oil is lifegiving, and it is a known fact to most engineer garages that it will solve up to 50% of incurable previously diagnosed as irreparable without a complete exchange gearbox.

Mi££ions spent, and the worlds top engineer scientists develop then protect their research investment with a trademark ATF +4 100,000 mile licensed fluid. They do the same for engine oils, anti freeze and diesel but some untrained someone believes the marketing hype and changes the engine, gearbox, fuel oil characteristics and their science out of all recognition. They usually do this out of good intentions, but ...............

see

Yes unless the battery is in good nick. A battery only has one job, to start the car, once started an alternator runs all the stuff happily. The normal condition of the battery pulls 0.015 to 0.025, just fifteen to twenty five milliamperes, its going to pull 25mA just for the PCM clock etc even when nothing is on and it pulls till 15 minutes after park & alarm when the computers are then put to sleep.

SKIM SCREEM, pull the NEG battery cable for 16 minutes. The Chrysler Smart Key Immobiliser's job is to activate the Automatic ShutDown Immobiliser Relay if it thinks the car is stolen. You could have a code stored and permanent or stored and non-permanent pulling the NEG will clear codes on the non-permanent. If its a permanent code you will need someone with a good scanner to clear the code for you then see if it resurfaces on 'known good starts'. If it persists then its between your FOB's door and wiring and the SCREEM. Best of luck. Car battery FOB Battery !

See here, any help ?

Depends on what voyager you have see the info in my sig line then read this. If each member here put his / her vehicle info into his sig line we would all be able offer better targeted help. You can look trough most of the older Chrysler systems here,. Best of luck.

HiYa Demodocus - Quickie on codes and why ! Powertrain ("P") codes [engine, transmission and emissions systems] Body ("B") codes [Climate control system, lighting, airbags, etc.] Chassis ("C") codes [antilock brake system, electronic suspension and steering systems] Network Communications ("U") codes [controller area network wiring bus and modules are sub divided into 2 groups below - Generic or Global codes, which have a "0" as their second digit to indicate they are common to all makes and models of vehicles. These are the codes that are required for basic emissions fault diagnosis. and - Enhanced or Manufacturer Specific codes, which have a "1" as their second digit to indicate they are unique to a particular vehicle make or model. These special codes were deemed necessary by the vehicle manufacturers so they could provide additional diagnostic information beyond the basic list of generic OBD II codes for all kinds of faults, not just emissions-related faults. I said earlier that there are x4 types of codes x2 of them can be read by anything one set can even be read and printed out in your dashboard by your IGN key [Key dance is - on off on off on off on within 5 seconds]. The other two are almost impossible to even scan let alone interpret with cheap scanners, it shouldn't surprise people that main stealers don't even want qualified engineers in proper garage set-ups to be able read them let alone DIY'ers. The RAC are normally good and have good pro- scanners available. Poor battery performance is often the cause of codes being reported, particularly recurring codes related to poor starting. Cont 10th Feb 2016 - eyes getting glazed - they soon will be ............... Most of the P's B's and C codes are 0's some however are 1's and hidden in the manufacturers section which is why even some good diagnostic scanners can't see them and all non-diagnostic scanners have no chance of ever seeing them, and then it gets even more complicated because many settings are enhanced but are also designated as 'user settings'. in a different section, some of these can be found in the EVIC, others can not. These 'user settings' cover things like : - Customer Key Programming - Automatic Door Lock enable / disable - Remote Unlock Driver's Door 1st - Sound Horn On Lock - banned in the UK - Turn Off Flash Lights On Lock/Unlock - Sliding Door Open Flash enable / disable - Enhanced Driver Seat Belt Use Reminder System - A/C Recirculation Programming This is why well intentioned people go to a garage and are repeatedly told no mate - no codes showing like I said last time. The codes are there they're just not able to be seen. I've used many full spec & 'indi' scanners ranging from £1k to £4k and even these perform differently, the only ones that do consistently well are the makers own and a sub to the TechAuthority and of course even money alone can't easily buy one of these. Best of luck. The battery is the prime, the single biggest cause of CAN BUS problems. low battery & arcing secondary ignition components particularly shorted electric motors often cause the PCI bus to react to the resulting electromagnetic interference sending the cars brains into a spin. In the 70's each individual sensor had to be 'hard wired' to a brain, by the late 70's the PCi BUS was invented and COMMS went over the PCi BUS. Then came the late 80's and computers began to be networked, cars were no different - auto gearbox's, anti-lock brakes and body controlled items such as lights entertainment and say-nav's were incorporated into the BUS protocol. The now old 2001 Cherokee still uses the antique CCD BUS, the 06 Jeep Liberty still uses the PCI BUS in tandem with the now internationally standard CAN BUS, most Chrysler's since 08 use PCi & CAN BUS protocols. Suddenly two or more modules can talk electronic language to each other independently, for example the PCM shares ECT info with the EATC module. Here the [EATC] electronic automatic temperature control is informed by the [PCM] power control module of the [ECT] engine coolant temp and automatic temp control is adjusted without your human intervention. There are hundreds of the conversations per minute happening between two or more modules, each and every one of them has to find a seat on the BUS and be communicated to one or more of the brains. An example of this would be that if if all the PRNDL segments are illuminated it almost always suggests a COMMS issue between the instrument cluster and the TCM] transmission control module. All these simultaneous broadcast messages can bump into each other on the BUS so they are transmitted by order of ranked priority, those of low priority are left parked at the BUS stop until the [all happens in milliseconds] information highway is clear then they are allowed a seat on the BUS. Chrysler invented the ['98 bi-wire CCD] Chrysler collision detection system for just that purpose. Like many current vehicles, information in a CAN-equipped vehicle is shared over a serial data bus. The bus is the circuit that carries all the electronic chatter between modules (nodes). The bus may have one wire or two. If it has two, the wires are usually twisted to cancel out electromagnetic interference. The speed at which the bus carries information will vary depending on the "class" rating of the bus as well as the protocol to which it conforms. A data bus with a "Class A" speed rating is a relatively slow, low-speed circuit that typically carries less than 10 kilobits (10 Kbps) of information per second. A data bus that operates at Class A speeds is limited to simple command functions like operating power mirrors, power seats, power widows, power door locks, remote trunk releases and lights. A data bus with a "Class B" rating, by comparison, may operate from 10 Kbps up to 125 Kbps, depending on the operating protocol (SAE J1850 or Europe's ISO 9141-2). This is fast enough to carry more complex information and time-sensitive data. Systems that may may share a data bus with a Class B rating include electronic instrumentation, electronic transmission controls, security systems, and climate control. Class C is currently the fastest data bus rating. Class C systems can operate at speeds up to 1 megabits per second, which is up to 100 times faster than a typical Class B data bus. Many of the vehicles that are currently using a Class C data bus are operating at speeds of around 500 Kbps, which is fast enough for powertrain control modules, air bag modules, and fast-acting antilock brake and stability control systems. Eeven faster CAN systems are coming with "class D" ratings of over 1 megabytes per second. And some applications such as onboard entertainment systems require even higher speed audio and video streaming. All this intelligence has to be broadcast without corruption, and it all depends on many things being simultaneously perfect, particularly battery power levels, no brain can function without life .. .. and life in this case is supported by clean power from a battery. Hence the reason why pulling the NEG for 15 minutes [CAP & BATT] can re-set life itself by re-setting the BUS protocols.

Chrysler recommend 2.8's engine codes use semi 10-40 till 08 then fully synth 5-40 from 08. Semi 10-40 for the 2.5 engine codes - but for which country ?

We in the UK only get 3 cold months and 1 zero°C month occasionally. I look at it the other way the 5 'W' is ok at°C but still copes fine with viscosity in our our temperate 3 month [Met office] sub 30°C summer and our 'cold running' engine. The UK current averages are around 15°C and the hottest UK place of 38°C has not been seen since the early 2000's some 16 years ago. So everyone has an opinion, mine is common sense - we have a voltage hungry car and a compression engine with the worlds worst CCA recommended battery. My radiator cooling fan has activated once in its life on a 2 hour motorway stop-start hold-up after a quick 3 hour run. I agree with Dazandtrace the cost difference between the semi and full is worth it for risk avoidance.

We all get caught out, mine had just sailed through test two weeks earlier, excellent hand and footbrick rear axle % efficiency figures, then one day : - heard a ping and found the OSR had 'spit out' a rusted pad, this pad had meat on it but had sheared from its backing altogether- stripped everything but the backplate and replaced with brand new disks, pads, shoes and a small parts set- every surface was 'finger filed' clean and copper or nickel greased depending on the surface- bled through and both pistons go on but would not retract - at all - suspect the dot 4 / 3 fluid is older than me and full of solids- desperation, had to force the pistons off to free spinning wheel and clamp the brake lines with heavy duty mole grips- I suspect those pistons have been in a stuck all the way out position for many many years Farming out services will always mean you never see yourself and never know what the true state of your brakes are particularly the handbrake because its not visual even when the wheel is off. Its my contention that a huge proportion of Voyagers have almost no handbrake, little footbrake efficiency for this weight, useless and hydroscopic fluid and seized brake parts particularly after 5 years and most of the cars on this site are even older than 10. Pad / disk self alignment on modern motors including our GV's tend to be single piston floating caliper as opposed to posh cars with fixed multiple caliper. In this case we are talking floating alignment with integrated parking brake 'top hat' hardware . Pressure on anti-lock accumulators have an old and new school opinion on 'how to', (1) old school is the usual hard on the pedal and turn the bleed screw (2) new school says clamp the hose to stop debris back flushing up to the master cylinder - I'm old school because putting a megga clamp on a hose can damage the hose itself a cause of inner liner collapse [acting like an unwanted check valve] preventing the master cylinder from releasing the fluid pressure from within the caliper. However in my case I had to clamp because they were locked in death grip. Clearly what must have been happening was the pistons were working well enough to pass the VOSA test and retracted just enough microns so as not to bind. When the pistons were pushed back in with reasonable force to accommodate the thickness of the new pads the became locked on like the taxmans death grip and would not release. Older sods like me should always remind ourselves that modern motors do not like the pistons being fully pushed in, and particularly fully pushed out all the way. Modern brakes have extra delicate and expensive components in the form of ABS and expensive ABS modulators which are easily damaged by the back-flush of debris caused when caliper pistons are shoved all the way in. Much better to bleed an excessive amount of fluid through the nipple to release the back-flush, additionally the new for old fluid top up replaces the efficacy of fluid which has been 'boiled' by heat transfer from piston to fluid as well as the hydroscopic effect of the fluid itself. Here are the rear's from both sides of the disk pads so we can all learn from my mistake. Any one of you might be relying on these if you pay and trust others to do the job for you. I confess I'm more than embarrassed. I'm a light~of~foot driver and never had a brake stopping distance problem but you can see for yourself that the metal rot from enough salty UK winters and neglect caused by poor diligence on the part of paid for mechanics meant the little glazed friction material outlasted the metal. http://i.imgur.com/M639LLd.jpg http://i.imgur.com/WX32sWt.jpg

Ditto 28", but the first time fit usually needs a turret puller to get two 28" do dance together properly, like bignev I bought expensive and they lasted less time than the cheepo's so I bought three pairs of sleeves and have two pairs left. The cheepo's are in their third winter.