QinteQ

Model is usually written on the front of the radio, have a dig around the bottom 'clicks' on this page.

Put your 17 digit VIN in here and get an absolute accurate answer.

Yes as I said earlier, yours was a good battery, an AGM Exide 50aH 750CCA. A battery’s aH goes down the faster you use it, and a Voyager uses whole lot of electrics when all components are in perfect nick, even when its parked overnight, it falls down my scale of 'what is good' on Voyagers because its only 50Ah. NOTE Ah is nothing to do with starting power CCA.

Ta ∀ndy Brown. Exide in my opinion are the worlds best high street maker for domestics, indeed they make Merc & BMW OEM branded batteries along with my preferred Varta F21 which is 80aH and 800CCA. The 082 Exide is 74aH and 680CCA when brand new. ∀ndy Brown is right, once the battery is eliminated the radio-bodge is always the next level in the menu of diagnostics. Most decent pro diagnostics can read most of the radio without dismantling anything, indeed there's a whole section in the scanners for this including manufacturers 'U' codes, those without access are going to have to go old school and a multimeter. The Yuasa on Liam89's car is an excellent battery but its knackkered and undercharging almost always down to sulphated plates, low voltage as we all know can play havoc with onboard electronics, and the fuel injection and ignition systems. I always understood there were 2 general rules : - (1) the alternator output should be a minimum of 1/4 of the battery aH, for continuous short runs however - charging the alternator output would need to be 150%[ish] of maximum load - (2) the 1 to 25 ratio [1 horsepower energy from the engine to make 25 peak alternator amps energy] This old Yorkshire-man's view on deep cycle wet-flooded needs to be related to newer tech. New tech such as AGM's and spirals can 'soak up' to 40% their available capacities rather than the 25% of the older tech. And there we have the nub of it .. .. this CRD car designed for spark not compression it has a diesel engine with a petrol standard battery [and baby-size battery tray] which to me appears to be not fit for purpose in that first place, I question whether the alternator and cabling [safety] was upgraded for a diesel spec, subsequent advances in tech leading to recommendations for spiral and AGM fall down because the alternator output now no longer reflects the optimal ratio between alternator and battery capacity. To truly benefit from an AGM or Spiral the alternator output needs to be increased to facilitate the 40% that these battery types are capable of, instead we continue blindly with an alternator output incapable of charging a modern battery unless the car is run daily and for a long run. My guess is the same for Liam89 as it alway is with all post CAN Mk 3 & 4 Voyagers. Battery, then (2) alternator output check, then (3) radio in that order.

Air bag light can often be cured with 5 fingered diagnostics, grab wires with fingers and shake gently usually bad connections under the driver seat where its continually moved up-down and fore-aft, plug & unplug the connections to clean them - make a good connection. If Liam89 lives anywhere near Teesside I'll check his battery and his BCM reads and lend him a known good battery for a week FOC, but he will have to 'make it fit'. A 750A battery should be a good one, check fusebox for bad connections / verdigris etc. Check earth its endless. Eliminate the battery first. AndyB asked if it was a RB3 - no answer AndyB asked if it was a factory fit radio - no answer gauges did the sweep is a give away radio looses all its settings is a give away I'm amazed a 2.8 starts even in the summer .. ..

Your battery according to the pic above reads 12.4a it should if healthy be 13.2 volts to 13.8 volts if its been 'off charge' for about 1 hour. The 12.4v reading says your battery is only 75% [relatively ] charged. 12.6 V 100% 12.4 V 75% 12.2 V 50% 12.1 V 25% Less than 12 volts Dead I think you can see from the figures above that your battery is struggling even with a warm engine just finished charging, that its under performing. There can be lots of reasons that your radio looses its preset stations and lots of other reasons a battery does not hold its charge. Given what you have said and that I have not seen your car or tested anything everyone's start point should be to eliminate the battery as a 1st check. Best of luck.

You can go anywhere the test is free. Truth is they all use these totally useless testers. What you need to know is what is your battery capable of now, those cheepo testers don't tell you what you want to know, Any battery older than 3 years is suspect, Anything less than an 096 on these diesel cars is suspect. Can't you just borrow a known to be good high CCA battery for a couple of days to use as a real world test ?

Leedsmans de-sloughing article is very advanced from summer 2014, the initial bog standard essential MOT maintenance we all do on the drum-in-hat work needs to be done 1st and in 99% of cases is all that's required. See above, You need to do the usual, don't be shocked to find pistons seized, linings down to rivets, and a disgusting mess. Most people don't do them at all including the garage you paid to do them. Even when they are done you should replace the 'small parts bag components' and clean all surfaces, as in bright metal and lube is the key to starting on the rear foot & parking brake conundrum, its never been cleaned in its lifetime of say 10 years. Next is the (2) after 1 September 2010 requirement for 58% service brake pass test in truth if you spend hours doing it right it will still depend on whether you want to invest heavily in the extra effort mile. - only at that point will you get to the best parking brake efficiency % you can hope to with any vehicle of this type.

It does not lose its code, it loses what Chrysler call 'customer preferences'. Depends on the spec of your car but the IOD [ignition off draw] 'factory-fuse' variously controls : Remote key fob Radio Heater blower Folding mirrors Central locks Interior lights etc There are different for your Radio 4 preference, your 6'6" size seat setting and you wing mirrors compared to your 5'2" daughter listening to her preferred tuneless screeching young music. Instantly switch-able between you and you daughter on your drivers door 'customer preferences'. Chrysler have the IOD fuse [see below] http://ww2.justanswer.com/uploads/MO/molurch/2014-01-08_040853_iod.png 'shipping', here the items listed above are are taken from the battery supply 15 minutes after the fuse is pulled ! Jumper leads or a 'starter pack' are not an answe to your question. You need to know if your battery is boogarred. Get your battery CCA properly tested with one of these and buy a new one if you need one. You need to know if its a new battery or any other issue before you start throwing money at it. A battery older than 3 years with a working CCA of less than 700 is going to give you a miserable winter my friend. Best of luck.

Bottom line on the abortion we call a handbrick. If at the end of the day for whatever reason you are not happy there is one last painful strategy and it will be a pain. Drop the car down, take it somewhere for a mile while occasionally pulling the handbrick on and immediately letting it go, do this frequently over the whole mile and you will grind the 4 imperfect leading / trailing edges to perfectly fit your 'in hat'. Then jack up and re adjust the handbrake, that will get you as near as you are going to get to 100% of the whole surface area of the shoe material applied to metal. - car in park- engine on- footbrake hard on- at least 3 or more pulls in quick succession on the handbrick whilst holding the 'pawl' in- should self adjust via the clockspring If that does not do the self adjust then you are in for the long haul, clockspring below .......................... http://www.chryslerforum.com/forum/attachments/chrysler-voyager-town-country-21/509d1402662039-my-struggles-gv-handbrake-mot-handbrake-003.jpg

My early and only experience of Halfords : Rang first to check stock, then went to Halfords, ordered their own recommended [put your registration in] 5 year warranted battery the HSB096 @ £129:99 while the nice clepto-cashier lady was emptying my plastic I flicked up the terminal covers to find the Terminals were the wrong way [o O - they should be - O o] round. http://i40.tinypic.com/1y8j2r.gif A 12 year old expert fully trained and certificated male assistant wiped the dribble from his nose and stormed out to my MOTA in the rain which was splattering against his thin bony shoulders making a mess of his over white freshly ironed by his Mother .. .. shirt, all the time asserting in a very authoritative way - why I way wrong and why it could not possibly be their 'fittings dBase', his matchstick like thin arms finally managed to lift the bonnet without breaking any of his arms only to find the common standard terminals. I did try to help his embarrassment, honest I did, I even offered him one of my Wurthers Originals and assured him we all make mistakes .. .. its all part of life's long learning .. .. but I still want my £230 snots back and I want them now. So now I'm back to where I started, I never in my life thought buying a correct 'soddin battery would be so much trouble. So I start the search again - this companies dBase correctly identifies the MOTA even listing the correct colour of my car etc and suggests 2 - both in the S range both will do the job , the; S4010 / 12V, capacity 80Ah, cold test current 740A / £72:95 - 5 year warranty - free deliveryS5010 / 12V, capacity 85Ah, cold test current 800A / £87:50 - 5 year warranty - free delivery My one remaining indecision is that though they list 315mm long, 175mm wide, 175mm high, the 315mm is about 27mm / 1.06 inches more than my current battery which will make the 175mm installed height of the battery a full inch closer to the sound deadening material on the underside of the bonnet [radiator side]. Two Three Four Points .1. - unless someone wants to convince me before Monday that it wont fit, or the terminals are arras first I'll buy the bigger one .2. - why waste all these letters of the alphabet ?, because there is an issue getting an 85/800 in the UK to fit a Voyager, and others following me might benefit from a thread that proves you don't have to go for a lesser capacity paying a lot - when you can have the full 85/800 for relatively little compared to the 175/175/278 size. .3. - if I'm wrong tell me quick !!!! because although this Forum's users will benefit from my mistake, I'll be £88 Quid down the chute ! .4. - don't believe what these 'enter your registration' dataBASE's tell you .. .. they are as good as the wo/man entering the DATA and I've found three tonight alone that were wrong, and one [in hope more that expectation] that's correct. .5. - don't believe anything - not one word that Halfords tell you, they consult a dBase that is wrong in the first place, a battery that fits under the bonnet is not the same as a battery that will start your car !______________________ NOTE : the above was written years ago, and while I still think Halfords are rubbish batteries and prices have changed a lot in the last several years.

Liam89, its similar to a 'red top' in construction and performance terms - so should do its job. The CCA counts for starting in the winter and its a 900CCA. The buttonMOD works well and is a godsend to these high demand winter vehicles especially with short run high CCA batterys.

darkchild101 - You put in a brand new Optima red top [same as AndyB's] just 2 years ago didn't you ?

Usually a winter problem and usually battery related. As AndyB says 'radio code' is not usually an issue but then we have no idea at all what kind of car and year you have.

Trust in the 'fuel computer' is a different issue. It is either ± what % since you had it done. Congrats on getting it sorted Berkswolf.

What you [personally] can and can't do without you [or a garage] playing 'parts darts' with your money. If the PRND etc box's are lit [cluster self check sequence] it means the TCM does not know which gear is selected. The 2nd, Neutral, Park & reverse are human and selected via mechanical linkage. 1st, 3rd & 4th are electronic and selected by the computer [TCM for petrol & EAXT for diesels] via an instruction to the solenoid pack. Most people can manage a fluid change, never flush just a drain & replace fluid. If you do a replace fluid many many people get lucky and it re-trains itself over a coule of hundred miles on the 41TE. If you like 'jasonleah1' are unlucky stop spending a penny till you get professional gearbox diagnosis or you will waste your money. Yes the module under the NSF wing & plastic cover has wiring that goes through a hole in the metal inner wing that is well known to chafe & expose shorting out wires. Best of luck.

- see here, the diesel workshop manual [schema] is here, best of luck.

Wrap around chrome bits for the bottom of a bumper. http://i893.photobucket.com/albums/ac132/dansphotostorage/STARTECH/BLACKSTVOYAGER19_zps7f41d5e1.jpg http://i893.photobucket.com/albums/ac132/dansphotostorage/STARTECH/BLACKSTVOYAGER17_zps3def8b68.jpg

∀ndy Brown and Sumvision here

- problem registers a code - code becomes a 'maturing' code, ie a specific number of times adds up to a hard code - hard code shuts something down or shows as a MIL [DTC] indicator - registers both as a removable [Fuse11 EVIC adjustmant] and an advanced scanner only code These codes are for example very serious on engine for example, and less urgent but equally irritating on tailgate / doors etc. http://www.300cforums.com/forums/attachments/performance-modifications/32361d1236545905-engine-responce-300-fuse-11s.jpg Cause however could be anything from resistance, door chain, electronic commands, motor, wiring etc. What you can do is clear via the fuse or the battery terminal for 15 minutes, then physically look for problems in the mech or wiring behind the plastic panel. EVIC, Mk dependant will clear pending only, the more reliable positive battery off for 15 minutes allows the car the enter sleep mode, where the EVIC or fuse method does not. In this case clearing via the batter has worked for '8953lewis' - congratulations.

Yea, I listed the Shenzhen one in #9 Nev, try it I'd be interested to know if it can be coded without a full on diagnostic code writer, that was exactly why I embarked on it those years ago. Take care M8 !

AndyB on this forum has made a MOD for just this. PING him on this forum .... and await his reply.

- no mate I admire your attempt to 'have a go'. I like you tried this many years ago [#9] for no reason other than curiosity .. .. as I already had x2 working keys and FOBS. The test is easy - (1) reveal the 6th 'panic' button {little microswitch, can be depressed] on your already coded key & FOB and you still won't be able to do it because the 'track' on the membrane is missing and (2) because for whatever reason the SKIM codes can't be read even with a good generalist diagnostic machine.

No EURO FOB has a sixth button. Look at your existing FOB already has the 6th microswitch & membrane, it just does not have the 6th raised rubber button called 'panic'. Most 'suto-locksmiths will have a ready supply of stocks for this stuff, whether they go much farther back than a decade I've no idea. see http://i.imgur.com/ihLpGZW.png Chrysler and Dodge vehicles from the 2005 timeframe use a keyless entry system developed originally for the Mercedes brand. The system actually implements the driver convenience and safety functions, an immobilization function designed to prevent vehicle theft, and sets the alarm state off and on. Different buttons on the EURO FOB variously : - lock and unlock all doors on the vehicle, or drivers door only- one [not in the UK or Europe] is a panic button that can be pushed to sound an alarm- one is power lift [boot] gate- one each for both left & right motorised sliding doors What the panic button does is allow a user to program up to 4 different transmitters, in order to do this the panic button needs to be used. How the earlier than 2004 LOGIC behaves I've no idea ! Some several years ago I bought a 6 button case & blade from this bloke as an experiment on the 'panic' button programming. His Chrysler stuff is here. The pcb from our standard 5 button fob has the 6 button internals which are complete and do fit ok. The problem I had was that there is an internal [Cellophane like] 'conductive tracked membrane' for all 6 micro switches which corresponds to the 6th button which I can't seem get hold of in the UK. In conclusion the 6th button is on our fob's, the 6 button key can be bought for £4 above, the 'tracked membrane on our UK version is missing the track that connects the existing 6th micro-switch. The 'locked' [to Chrysler] ID46 transponder chips are widely available, don't make the mistake of buying the commonly available peugeot one - they may be [locked] different. Regarding the 6 button FOB's, like yourself I have never managed to find one in the UK. I did find the 6 button Blank Blade Remote Key Case shells here in the UK. Your PCB will go straight into the FOB and the panic button will be in the correct place directly over the micro button but will still not work. What's missing is the etched (1) conductive membrane that goes between the (2) PCB and the (3) FOB shell to translate the KEYPRESS. In short unless you can get the conductive membrane that goes between the PCB and the FOB shell you still cant make a keypress. The combination key & FOB with the 6th button can be had from America such as this one here. - I know that the existing UK FOB has all the 6 button microswitches, but only a 5 conductive tracked membrane- I make the assumption that any 6 button FOB or keyFOB [remote head key] shell is just that a shell- you can transfer the internals along with the 6 microswitched PCB a from 5 to 6 button FOB but only 5 buttons will work What I have always assumed will work [forget the grey transponder key for the minute] is get a second hand complete with conductive tracked membrane fob from America ebay, then transfer your existing 6 button EURO PCB into the 6 button panic fob complete with its conductive tracked membrane and you have a working and programmable 6 button FOB. If you take apart your existing 5 button UK or EURO FOB you will find you have a complete 6 microswitched PCB with only 5 'traced' conductive tracked membrane. Programming is here. The '6 conductive tracked membrane' I mentioned along with the corresponding rubber buttons can be seen here. The membrane on its own is here. Here's a different shaped one for a Jeep. All Chrysler remotes 2/3/4/5/6 Button FCC ID:OHT692427AA work on 315mhz. Other 'panic button' related FOBS are here. NOTE : SomeChinese sites calls it a plastic sheet, you can see the conductive tracking between the microswitch nodes. - if the cars brain has been programmed with a country code - and it has !- then the 'disallowed' customer preference can not be re-programmed from the FOB- so telling the alarm to 'bleep' or seatbelt to 'chime' is only allowed if its allowable under the country code- the country code can be re-set to any on of the 11 [i think] anytime, but you need a capable scanner to do that Take for one example the 'beep on lock & unlock', this used to be a standard default in the UK and 99.9% of vehicles had it. At some point in the distant past the Euro government invented a law banning alarm beeps [noise pollution] on activation and de activation of the alarm feature on European imported vehicles, my understanding of the current laws is that the arm and disarm indication beeps is strictly forbidden in all EU countries. What you would need to do is find out which countries did [for your car build year software version] allow 'beep on lock & unlock' and change the country code to that country, so for example if the US did allow 'beep on lock & unlock' you would use a capable scanner to change the country code to US then change the US miles to kilometres on the overhead display preferences. Your first question is - is it really worth all that trouble. Most indi garages here will do this change country protocol for £30UKP, ask your local indi's what they charge, tell them first its in the BCM section of the scanner, then under customer preferences. Best of luck my friend. Hope this helps your understanding.

You could help other members here by telling them which problem it had and how you fixed it.