QinteQ

Yes it could be many things. Starting point is to reboot the computers. I need to know year + is it 2.8 CRD or 2.4 CRD ?. You probably have nothing more than a "low battery condition" (lack of use - search for 'lifestyle' or 'low fuel'.or.'LP issues'. Either way diagnosis starts with rebooting the three computers. Key dance and Chrysler's own workshop manuals can be found on this very forum free of charge. Year and engine size 1st please.

Software or LP fuel system usual starting point. Lucas mechanical hand pump on UK version about mid-radiator position. Push button, if it needs more than 1 push you have leak back or air in or '0' ring on diesel filter issues. The HP pump is only after after efficient LP supply to it. Software, test it can and does 'lose' it's brain. It's a crude PCi BUS, pull NEG cable for 20 minutes then replace it you will hear a series of tests as each PCI instruction is 'pinged' and registered as good or bad in the BCM. I've no idea on American coding of radio but EU code is written to the BCM and never lost. Need more .. .. ask .. .. best of luck!

You take yourlearning seriously AndyB - some project, and well documented walkthrough ! Many others benefit too.

It's not "playing with you" just EEPROM programming design. - finds ? Bad so = warning light - finds ? Good = removes warning light Old school XJ8 would also along with most have charged @ 14+V, Chrysler temperature cell under your battery tells alternator to send 13+V hence my 'lifestyle' warning and batteryMOD. Given co¥id issue you need to do a 30 minute trip once a week summer to keep it topped up my friend. Best of luck.

Watcha Andy lad. You might be gifted my GV about a year from now. Keep trawling the boards after Xmas for message!

I have a full diagnostic scanner. Even if I properly cleared your codes the error would continue to return IF the BCM module knows it has one of the four ABS wheel sensor's NOT supplying a reading! It's a default catch all code till you find and repair the offending part. Ditto what I describe as 'lifestyle' or lack is use, solution on this is 30 minutes each trip every week to replace CCA use in just one start. Clearly I've no idea what issue you have just ask an indi if they're able to pre-clear the code for the MOT, then get a year test on it. Best of luck.

Anything's possible. Many hundreds done fault free, don't know how you joined wires but one is earth the other +5V. If you used for example chokkie block just unscrew, pull cables, and revert to no MOD @ 12.7v instead of 14V. If it still happens is wheel sensor. Let me know how you get on M8! I can't see any way you could have messed with ABS/IPM cables.

Try the 'key dance'to get the actual codes in the BCM EEPROM. The ODB code occurs twice. Once long term out of your control and needs a full diagnostic to clear it. Once short term, sometimes (but not all) taking the NEG battery terminal off for 20 minutes will 'clear it'. Be aware 2.8 are all MkIV 2004 and above and above and radio code is safe. So IGN off, bonnet up, keys in your pocket, driver's door closed but NOT locked before you start. Your car will go mad checking each function when you reconnect battery cable. Door open, P for park, foot take on, keys in IGN, wait other checks. Might, might not!. Better than the breakers option. All Indi's have scanners, you need to tell them it's '04 year code you want clearing. Best of luck M8.

I'm 05 changed mine nightmare access to garage hydraulic compressor's couldn't get them down with 4 and a very powerful electric gun. Now to my point I did read on one one forum that a GV spring bottom plate had a notch bend in it, get the spring mounted NOT in the [holding] notch and all hell's gonna break loose. Just a memory, hope this helps.

Yes 30a is IOD "ledged" with primary 'stay alive' PCi bus functions. Use it or lose it, needs weekly 20 minute run winter and three week 20 minute run summer or 'lifetyle' will send a plaugue to anyone. I'm cabin up since xmas, mines too flat to keep alive or even jump start. Not even an alarm flashing light. Take care maxcaddy.

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Sounds like a TX1 London cab, originally VM Motori chain cam petrol marine engine. Never had one or worked on them. Usually good for donkey work 4-5 thousand miled From your description of clicks & nothing the "trigger wire" would be my first on a menu of tests. - IGN thin wire to switch direct to spade terminal on solenoid "permits" starter to be engaged ! - seized ? - solenoid fekked? - starter fekked ? - bendix stuck on ? Best of luck.

Years ago I had similar. Weird one. I went to car wash HP Lance's lad on rinse pointed his Lance down vertical. Noticed dozens of tiny black platelets /flakes of carbon flying up vertical. Tried window on way home for the millionth time. Window worked ever since. Take care.

Welcome to the forum my friend and congratulations on no advisories you have clearly done a good job. Yes I love my GV, it's good for me and good to me. I've shared your " look after her she'll look after you " for 5 decades - it's a 'trueism'. IMO Hoat 05 only - ever + 5 litres of distilled for coolant Fully Synth only - ever for autobox Small parts bag for 'top hats' saves time, new kit for top hats Battery mod. Batteries. Winterizing. Chrysler Workshop manuals [including hens-teeth CRD] Inline stat mod. Parasitic Draw, all on this site somewhere. Best of luck.

Opinion America in 50's new housing builds all drives ramped up for flooding/builing laws engines big, thirsty and cheap petrol. Insane parts finder in any UK from Halfords to trade are "put your REG in here" and of course it thinks all American cars are 50a/400CCA small battery tray not in fact 800/85 big battery. All new batteries are prostituted substituted diluted scrapyard lead. Hence $hite EURO batteries but Varta AGM F19/start stop tech and Varta F18 SLI have both been good for me - ours are SLI tech. They both start our Mk but the AGM kills expensive auto smart 9 stage battery chargers. Original 60 year design rear top-hat-drum "holding" brakes a nightmare to get set. Legacy of above housing only designed to stop car accident rolling back unattended into traffic. They rely on auto box locking pin holding car. Batteries including Halfords posts on this site somewhere. Take care buddy.

HiYabignev I'm as good as I'm as I'm gonna get, been cabin-up since Xmas GOV sms orders, apart from one 1/8th mile each way early January. Hope you and yours are ok lad. I see maxcaddy as a 'lifestyle' user who has an old underspec and under performing battery. who even with a new F19 Exide has lifestyle under use problems regardless. I certainly do [lifestyle-lack of use] and have had for a decade. So new SLI 80/800 will help but lifestyle will remain. You take care bud.

Glad it worked for you. I'm still sod the neibour's, they will understand if you talk to one them you know. You need a new battery I think my friend, certainly before next winter even if you persevere through the warm summer. BTW I don't know if your type 19, there's a range small to big for that post you made. It's a big heavy cold lump to start and IMO needs to be near to 800CCA to feed both the high draw of the 2.8 limited toys and start UK winters. Take care.

Opinion Less and less lead in them, Less and less quality of lead, EU forced 10% $hite lead from scrapyards into new batteries as a 'green climate' contribution gift to politics and a whole new industry was born into paying endless tax to governments. It used to be 4 bits of good wire through bulkhead, now it's tree sized looms computers controlled PCi signals poor quality Mexican aluminium. Pre Y2k a 20 year old battery was still ok, these days they're not. You can still get Odeyssy who use virgin lead but salty price leaves a bad taste in your wallet. 90% scrap batteries are only sulfated not scrap. Under specified batteries are like domestic heating designed for 'planned deformation' and won't do the job requirement.

Yuasa generally good quality, but only a type 019 for 2.8CRD's. Never use the dreaded 'put your REG number in here' thing - always get enough plates for high demand cold weather starting, those dBase's always put you into petrol/spark not diesel compression with half the CCA and half the aH for starting. Always an SLI for our Mk's not AGM, were not START/STOP tech. NOTE all type 019 will not fit our battery tray without chonking bits off with an air-saw. Your key IGN question answered by bignev is correct just connect terminals and wait and see outcome before IGN key inserted. Crap battery/infini amp/and lifestyle always lead to alarm issues. At the moment we all have crap batteries due to 'lifestyle' because of co¥id lockdown. Best of luck. https://www.amazon.co.uk/Yuasa-YBX5019-Performance-Starter-Battery/dp/B00KNQS4RW/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?dchild=1&keywords=yuasa+5000+019+car+battery&qid=1590255541&sprefix=yuasa+5000&sr=8-1

Fitted 'big red key' decade ago, works + safe but only use looking for 'parasympathetic drain'. Battery in general, or here. "fob made no difference" - is only to marry the IPM/BCM/alarm/IGN switch to the fob/blipper, after the alarm is on and NOT going off - "It could be that if I now put that fuse back in everything would be fine" .. .. .. well sod neighbours, you have 2 options - alarm disabled is a nono - can test @ (a) secure home .. .. ( or wilderness insecure wasteland elsewhere - choose Original Infiniti ? question ? for the terrifying parasympathetic issue have you changed/messed with any wiring on your car ?

I'm confused too with alarm. I'm not clear if it was off/now working/ still off so still not sure about the blipper/wireless signal and alarm on/off hence the reason I said the word "marry" meaning the transponder/key fob/car protection might lose the handshake functions in the same way a button battery going flat would do. Locking/unlocking from blooper should re-marry and prove alarm/locking etc. As for you and I were still here and kind of functional compared to some unfortunate others, poor sodds. I got my GOV SMS telling me to go lockdown about 7/8 weeks ago. Take care bignev bud.

It's the whole route protection for all PCi and other instructions from the BCM isn't it ?, The IPM covers whole car and all its 'pings' commands are routed through it: Remote key fob Radio Heater blower Folding mirrors Central locks Interior lights of course when the key is in the ignition The power seat is a stand alone plug in but the Eeprom instruct command is still via IPM protection, isn't it ?

Have you changed the radio/wiring from original Infiniti ?

Workshop manuals here: http://www.chryslerforum.co.uk/topic/365-2005-grand-voyager-auto-box-problem/?hl=%2Bmanuals+%2Bqinteq&do=findComment&comment=1465

BCM stores long/short term errors. If it's cleared the short term one you are probably ok. You can't clear long term without very expensive diagnostic anyway. What I'd do is - with a charged battery is lock in normal way pull NEG cable for 20 min. Replace 30a fuse. Lock and unlock 3 times with FOB blipper. What happens with alarm ? Option 1 - It's a PCi BUS no different to any computer. When the battery (computer) goes on again you will hear a series of clicks as it tests various differen relays etc. You 'should' then lock/unlock doors and start vehicle as usual as bignev suggests. Does it ? Option 2 - It works already if it ain't broke don't fix it, leave it, suck it and see. Best of luck. Let the group know.