QinteQ

You'll soon get used to it my friend, much better than muppetts looking down in the dark @ 70mph. Switch it on and set speed LHS. Faster, slower, pause / resume middle RHS. The only important pause / resume RHS is 'raised' so you automatically know where it is. Touching the brake pedal of course will also pause cruise and return full control to a human. Best of luck 1+3

Different year & car, diagnosis is the same, especially for the '[ryden #5] comment, everyone thinks spending £1000 of your cash on parts darts is a good idea, first always always ask them have the tested the part, are they sure that component is actually goosed !

I did it [lazy] old school : - hose in header tank - 1/2 pulled off bottom hose - matched out [of bottom hose] to in [at header tank] flow - started the car to fully flush heater matrix - switched the car engine off - let it run till it was totally clear You will see the return water from the whole cycle come squirting into the header tank from its internal entry. There was loads of gunge. I used the x5 of GO-5 and the x5 of distilled for a quid, it may have been a pint or so short but that's still well protected, Cars give you what you give them and we will agree this stuff is hardly ever done properly regardless of who we pay - do it yourself and you know its right. Have a quick check of the level the next morning and look under the car for damp patch. Best of luck.

Your stat is almost certainly OK. You need an air-dam, see above. Best of luck.

You are correct sir, the compliment of the nym and the picture was not my choice but a fellow forum member AlanC who kept posting it so I changed my pic but not my nym for AlanC who is a good bloke. http://www.chryslerforum.com/forum/avatars/qinteq-24658.gif?dateline=1433616481

I used a Part Number TH01489 from RockAuto UK - This slipped straight in to the internal pipe diameter, the rolled rim makes a smooth entry no filing or fettling other than the hole to drill. Additionally the 5 minutes install time on the 99p spent on cheepo grey plastic pip-lagging at Screwfix further halved the already reduced warm up time. Most good UK 2.8's get around 33/34 MPG, many don't get anywhere near a consistent 33MPG. I'm not sure if I ever expected the mod to improve on my average 33+MPG - but I am sure most people will benefit from the 20%[ish] drop in MPG we would expect from the first 15 minutes of cold running when the weather drops to ≡ ≈ 5°C. My brother used to have a brand new Ford Galaxy MPV on a 2.2 that at £32k+ used to get take around 30 minutes to even be able to use the demister, and if he parked up to long waiting for her indoors coming out of the bingo the engine cooled so much he had to turn the fan blower off or his pins froze. I'm saw a much reduced warm-up time [about 4 mins] and a noticeably mitigated diesel running costs over the next 5 UK weather months when I did the two mods below. This will very particularly applies to me [and any] infrequent user who travels only 15 miles in one go twice each week. I also went solar maintainer that year and found that 2 years it worked and one year [lifestyle] it didn't. I'm currently looking at chucking my cheepo Maplins 4W panel and buying a better 10W panel & charge controller. The Maplins panel was always going to be on the extreme edge of useless when I bought it and I knew it at the time. The panel I'm now looking at should make more than a 1/2 A [1W] in the worst of the winter which is double the IOD mA loss 'at rest' on my 05. http://i.imgur.com/9SgNcwx.jpg http://i.imgur.com/fWzORGm.jpg

A good informative post !

Gordy, we both use HOAT, we are in coincidental agreement, not disagreement with each other. What is dote.com ? and what is Captain ? Another couple of things worth knowing is when front flushing, or refilling to the correct level turn the heater full belt and the fan high to clear or or refill the matrix itself. Burping, leave the filler cap off or loose, get it to temp, it will burp itself.

I'm answering the 2.8CRD question which is a totally different engine design to the 2.4. I use HOAT + distilled as you will know gordy - I've posted it often enough in this forum. I use HOAT in my 2.8 because that's what's recommended by the maker of the 2.8 CRD. What anyone else uses or recommends is their business, I certainly won't follow or take any advice from anyone but the makers of the engine. I've never heard of "dote com forum" Antifreeze, gearbox oil, engine oil, brake fluid etc are abused by most owners after the main stealers service ends, infrequently topped up and neglected, its hardly ever changed and given the essentials of new life. Therefore any car over 3 years old is always a suspect. Take care gordy.

See : http://www.chryslerforum.com/forum/chrysler-voyager-town-country-21/hoat-coolant-22894/ 1+3

There were never any in the first place. Champagne (white) dial clusters have an electroluminescent cluster - means - the whole cluster itself gives off light. 1+3

It does when the LED's go to red

Here: http://www.thebmwz3.co.uk/2016/09/top-suspension-mount-replacement.html?m=1

Look at the eight number BS standard or the Chrysler code that covers Comma 05, available at your front door via the biggest and best known European delivery system - Amazon.

Auto GV's like non-automatics accelerate according to your right foot.The exception to this rule is when using 'cruise control', travelling at say 70 or even 50mph in cruise mode and touching pause or the brake pedal then resuming cruise will always automatically rev to almost 3k. Yes the software will learn your right foot style and drive that way henceforth, - that's what you asked for. There is a hidden software setting that needs a diagnostic scanner to re-set the learning software.

Full workshop manuals list here, the elusive copy of the RG diesel is here.

Good, glad you are sorted, be aware that the standard one is 10A and your supply is 20A. Providing you don't plug anything drawing more than 12A @ 12V you will be fine otherwise should be a 20A socket. Best of luck.

The lefthand one and the one in the boot are or should be permanent 'high output' live (bi-derectional) and direct wired directly to the battery. If you don't use them, they should not cause you any problems whatsoever. 1+3

20a fuse number 5 in the fusebox which is OSF under the bonnet. The fuse serves both the radio and one socket, the other socket is self resettable. Both should be live when the ignition is on, only one should be live when the ignition is off

Looks like a 'blanking plate' to me - enjoy the extra performance and miles per gallon !

Battery US, instrument cluster test and re-set, the maybe the BCM.

3ddesign, all automated, comes on automatically when its cold[er], switches off automatically when its water is warm enough. It has a diesel in line from your tank, an automated electrical supply on & off line and a small exhaust out. It will not switch on if you are under a 1/4 tank full.The probable reason it came on in the warm weather would be that (1) it was cold in your area (2) when the battery is connected for a long time all functions run a 'self test'.

Webasto Thermo Top auxiliary heater.

Of course they do, well they list ATF not ATF-4. Dextron III on the 20 hour KLR shear test scored 40% less than ATF-4 and Mercon V was 19% less than ATF-4. You can do as you wish its your gearbox. Best of luck.

14.4 used to be the old[er] charge rate. The current thinking of 13.8 is generally accepted battery charge rate. To me that's too low, A cell on our lead acid starts to charge @ 2.25 x by our 6 cells is 13.8 in most/many cases that's gonna take one hell of a long time to replace just one winters morning. The ButtonMod Andy speaks of is easy, 10 minutes, safe as houses costs less than a quid and delivers 14,2[ish] well inside the 14.5 gassing safety and a much reduced re-charge time.