QinteQ

80p a length, enough for 6 new filter covers

Often times the apparent 1/4" change is the type of replacement wiper plastic clip. Here there are two distinctly different metal J end lengths, easy to make that mistake with the universally inaccurate "enter you REG number" dBASE system's. EDIT below : Hooks & types here 4U

I use 28" with no problems, I used a puller to re-set the turrets.

Your welcome friend. Our rads, are alloy and hardly ever get a complete change of fluid [ditto brake fluid etc] in their life, they are designed for HOAT and yet garages top up with anything handy usually cheepo non-HOAT any brand, there's no wonder they get gunged up with bits, back flushing an alloy rad hardly ever does any good. I did my usual old school cheat of bottom hose off just a little, hose pipe in the top at the same flow rate, heater full to flush the matrix and let it run clear. Bottom & top hose buttoned up, bring it to heat, quick check a day later for level. On the statMOD I used a Quinton Hazell 210 Thermostat Opening Heat --- 82 deg CSize A = Across ring --- 48mm.Size B = Below ring --- 32.5mm.Size C = Bottom ring --- 28.5mmhttp://www.micksgarage.com/img/td/57/l/qth210k-1.jpg

I never regarded the kettle test although we all believed it in the 50's & 60's, the °C opening point is always approximate and anyway they are always designed to always fail in the 'open' position, I used a Renault five stat because it had a rolled edge and a perfect push fit into the hose [wax pellet always goes to the engine] diameter. This is my actual one but because I own a lathe I built a housing for it - just ignore the aluminium housing when you look at it. Best of luck.

Nice one Berkswolf, better than buying parts and DIY and a whole lot better than paying someone else the full price. BTW EuroParts were @ 70% then 30% off but are still @ 25% off anything.

DUP

What money are you spending / looking at M8, you said in #1 £500-£5k.

LP fuel, injectors, battery. What is the battery type & age and did you have the same car & battery last winter ?

Its an expensive 'friend', an additional after-market extra people pay a lot for. Left to its own devices it will just work if (1) its cold enough and (1) if you are at least 1/4 full of fuel. If you really want it switched off get underneath the car and unplug the electrical connector near the unit, denied a power supply voltage it will go dead along with its brain. We all have to learn including me, all questions and answers are knowledge and that's why we use forums. Take care ! http://i.ebayimg.com/images/g/QswAAOSwImRYER-t/s-l1600.jpg

Why is 'not turning off' a problem ? It's a fully automated Webasto ThermoTopo. It's job is to protect the engine in very cold weather by assisting the engine's ability to get up to a working temperature more quickly. It's not a cabin heater as most think, costs virtually nothing to run and indeed saves money by reducing those first 20 more expensive minutes and metal wear when the big metal engines moving parts are not yet up to working temp. I have to say in all my years this is the first ever time I've seen anyone wanting it turned off, normally people are begging for anyone to supply & fit second hand used parts for £200. Do as Andy suggests and 'winterise' your GV. Best of luck.

Use the hand pump, if its hard you have positive pressure and don't have leak-back. If you don't have enough fuel pressure check fuel filter has rattled loose of its O ring or the water filter is not tight allowing leak-back. 1+3.

Cam is 60k for taxi / rough use 100k for normal personally 80k would be my own 'get it done'date. You know all the others you ask are common sense for example unless you have garage stamped and dated evidence and receipts then always assume its not done regardless. The facts are that fluids are never changed and the handbrake parts are never looked at after year 3 of its life.filters [including cabin pollen] are cheap and a DIY. If you do the back brakes drain, flush, and completely change the hydroscopic brake fluid at the same time which won't have been done since the car was brand new. Diitto the antifreeze and easy DIY job but only use G05 and distilled water and make sure you front flush through with a hose including having the engine running and the heater full belt to clean the heater matrix and alloy radiator. Brakes, tie legs and boots only when needed and knocking. Transmission and engine oil are very lifeblood of a system and the biggest gift you can ever give is a full transfusion not topping-up ! Plenty of posts, pictures and advice on both forums, best of luck.

Apart from hand-brick and sliding doors, none of the above #1 is true as a statistical'norm'unless they are total neglected bangers.I have not looked but by normal say date range of 15 years or less 99% of GV's don't fit the O/P's opinion. The plastic chain track on the door fault and the medieval 'top hat' design for the parking brake are well known faults. The overwhelming remaining GV fleet will be automatics and as such are locked and immobile when parked anyway.A dealer will always add £500 for a 'sold as scrap' and £1000 for any other type is sale, a 6 month patient look for a good private sale will always reap rewards.

Full workshop manuals list here, the elusive copy of the RG diesel is here.

You don't need an expensive Ring brand, one of these will do you even the £2 Chinese ones will be within 1/2V accurate, more than good enough to get within the 14.4 your looking for. I take it you do have x2 cigarette lighters in the front of your car ?

Its pointless reading a battery for at least 12/24 hours, it needs to be read at rest. Reading in less than at least that time will only ever give you a subjective lie. When you test a still actively exited battery it will return an artificially high state number. You mentioned your disappointment that it read 12.7 in an earlier thread - 12.7v (2.1 per cell x 6 cells) 12.7v is in fact a 100% full . . . but now you know that would be an [exited state] lie, 12-24 hours later [rested state] would be a true honest real reflection of your 'actual state of charge'. State of charge. What we all really want to know about our batteries is what is our actual CCA, 99% of people can never know, including clever mechanics in garages. I've got a Solar BA7, most garages have a cheepo 1940's designed £15 drop tester which are useless for telling you how many working CCA's you battery still has available to start your car at any point in time. For example a very good S5 800/80 when brand new might only be a 750/80 after 2 years - 700/80 after 4 years if you see what I mean. ______________________ 29th Nov EDIT: The solar maintainer The nearest 'ready made' economically sensible panel in the UK that will return to your car the minimum IOD loss in winter sun is this exact one, if you are tempted to save £20/30 quid by getting a Chinese cheepo panel I can't vouch for it. If you have 'off street' parking you could mount it on the GV roof [cable into side opening window or upper boot lid or even screwed to the car port / house wall etc] if your limited 'on street parking' and to having to place it on the horizontal shelf in front of the steering wheel in a 'through glass' situation you should still eek out the 0.25mA IOD on most 2 hour only days in the winter, but the 20x21" size means it will stick out a little more than the depth of the GV binnacle / info-bar. Ring Intelligent 8 Stage Charger - £30 .. .. additional comment Be sure- very sure, to use the MODE button set your battery type when you put a battery on charge, NORMAL GEL and AGM charge very differently. Your S5 is a NORMAL sealed wet cell.

EDIT [deleted] : posted in the wrong thread !

Yes I clearly said in #9 The answers to some of your other questions are : Battery choice on a GV, like choosing a wife, provokes different opinions on what is beautiful. The issue however are simple. You should be looking for about 800CCA over 80aH, this is a physical size that will not fit the CRD battery tray, so get a big one and modify the tray, or get a smaller one and take your UK winter chances. There is a~n~other UK issue of lifestyle, its a use it or lose it condition. If like me you do 2000 miles per annum with two 15 minutes trips once a week you will regardless of battery size / cost never keep that battery charged, the BUS [over 7 or so days] at resting will use more than the 30 minutes the alternator was able to replace. Different people have success with different batteries, I'm sure the UK users will come to your aid with their suggestions, particularly the Scottish contingent who have an even colder climate than I. For myself I originally had a Banner Uni Bull 690 / 70, it was useless, my replacement was a Bosch S5 Type 96 at 800 over 80. Bad GV Lifestyle = two 15 minutes trips once a week. The higher the voltage applied, the faster the battery will charge, charging at too high a voltage WILL damage your battery. A simple 100Ah open lead acid battery and a 180A charger connected to the battery discharged to 50% : - @ 50% full @ 13.2V current was 35A- @ 50% full @ 14,8V current was 160A [improvement of 457%]- @ 75% full @ 13.2V current was 1A- @ 75% full @ 14.8V current was 60A [improvement of 6000%] - two 15 minute periods @ 13.2V is 2 x 15 minute @ 21Ah, compared to ;- two 15 minute periods @ 14.4V is 2 x 15 minute @ 60Ah, is an improvement of about 300% The temperature sensor under the battery will drop [ temperature compensator's on modern alternators will compensate] the voltage output from about 14.0V to about 13.2V. The problem I have with this is the engine compartment soon reaches temp and the battery assumes its fully charged. - 13.20 volts is about what you would expect from [split diode - does not apply to Voyagers, and] this vehicle with a temp sensor & alternator compensator- 14.00 volts is about what you would expect from any typical alternator without a vehicle temp sensor & alternator compensator- 14.40 volts is what you would expect from a sealed lead acid to prevent [they tend to gas @ 50ºC] excessive gassing- 14.80 volts is what you can risk pushing it to with an open lead acid to prevent damage to other equipment connected to the battery at the same time NOTE01 : I wouldn't buy one smaller than 80 / 800, but in the interests of even handed-ness a spiral-redtop will do the job - make sure you get the right 'posts' for your type !NOTE03 : There are IOD 7 functions that are 'live' when you think your car and battery are asleep, they pull a combined minimum of 0.025 ampere draw IGNITION-OFF DRAW TEST - reproduced from the workshop manual ! The term Ignition-Off Draw (IOD) identifies a normal condition where power is being drained from the battery with the ignition switch in the Off position. A normal vehicle electrical system will draw from fifteen to twenty five milliamperes (0.015 to 0.025 ampere) with the ignition switch in the Off position, and all non-ignition controlled circuits in proper working order. Up to twenty-five milliamperes are needed to enable the memory functions for the Powertrain Control Module (PCM), digital clock, electronically tuned radio, and other modules which may vary with the vehicle equipment. A vehicle that has not been operated for approximately twenty one days, may discharge the battery to an inadequate level. When a vehicle will not be used for twenty one days or more (stored), remove the IOD fuse from the Integrated Power Module (IPM). This will reduce battery discharging. Excessive IOD can be caused by: • Electrical items left on.• Faulty or improperly adjusted switches.• Faulty or shorted electronic modules and components.• An internally shorted generator.• Intermittent shorts in the wiring

Get one of these, put it on your old battery and leave it switched on forever and ever. 80% of batteries we scrap & replace are actually still good just 'sulfed', we scrap them by the million but they are mostly ok. Battery manufacturers worlwide rub their hands together, melt them down, then sell us back our own expensive lead as 'grey lead' % in new lead batteries. This charger will even repair sulphated batteries.

Stop reading the battery terminal voltage with the alternator / engine off it serves no purpose to this debate jasonleah1, and in the scheme of things confuses you, it tells us nothing at all about your issues. You need to tell me what its charging at while driving along @ 1500+ RPM [#11] and as stated several times can only be done from your own observation inside the car while you are driving. I have one of the Ring RBA3 voltmeters, but there are many available from a couple of quid.

- get one of these for your RHS [not left] cigarette lighter socket, not very accurate but a good indication of 'live average data' while driving - read this from a year ago, covers most of the batteryMOD - read this on solar maintainer part 1, part 2 is in this very thread Put your excessive IOD draw theories on the back burner for now. Get this battery and the solar maintainer / lifestyle right for starters my friend. I think you will find that you are now charging at 14.4 [ish] average volts with the 22K Ω @ 1/2 watt and yes you used the correct colour brown wire. Telling me how often on average you use the car [(1) lifestyle - frequent use - winter starts - duration [50 miles every other day] of recharge from the alternator - no intervention needed] .. .. [(2) lifestyle - infrequent use - winter starts - duration 30 minutes once a week you will always have problems. I started with a 4W Maplins panel good for the summer months absolutely pointless in the winter I looked at the actual IOD draw, mounting winter-sun-position of the panel and quality of the panel and soon realised I was going to have to do it right and forget the cheepo Maplins stuff.

I think you have done the MOD correctly and your new battery will be charging at 14.3 or .5 where I think you have confusion is the method of reading the average value over the REV range.I'll dig out an old post / thread of mine for you to read that covers much of your concerns. IOD draw is an absolute pig to chase down, unless someone has'bodged' wiring especially aftermarket radios its a possible but unlikely culprit. Solar battery maintainers - anything short of £100 good quality panel and controller is unlikely in the winter ever to replace the 1/2 watt minimum needs of a GV IOD. I'll get back to you after the Arsenal match.

The S5/4/6/ is just how long your warranty runs for jasonleah1, it tells us nothing about your new battery. For example I have a spare Bosch S5 that is an actual 12V 85Ah 800CCA Type 110 S5010. The 800 cold cranking amps is the most important bit the 85aH is less important for starting and just means the time it takes to empty and the S just stands for their 'silver line of batteries'. I don't understand what's wrong, apart from myself at least seven others have done this exact MOD and using the same resistor which is non-directional and though we all vary slightly we are all ≈ [ish]. I will guarantee that you have not used a type 110 because they will not fit our GV's without cutting and pruning the battery compartment to fit a type 110, so what is your actual new battery number ? I've long advocated 80 / 800 for our GV's they draw a flaky IOD of .025 to .030aH at rest after the 16 minute sleep command and have a lot of electrical toys, add to that the big 3 litre lump of a UK ± °C cold compression engine and you have some big needs. The only obvious thoughts are (1) cut wrong wire (2) not reading the voltage from an in cabin gizmo at 1500+ RPM.

- 33K Ω @ 1/2 watt gave me the 13.9 - 22K Ω @ 1/2 watt gave me the 14.4 I wanted, Back to 'happy days' old school charging rates - 09p from Maplins - snip the black wire that comes from the 'battery button sensor' - insert a 22K Ω @ 1/2 watt resistor back into that wire - sorted - 5 minutes - greets to 'matgriff', hadn't spotted that post http://i.imgur.com/DKa3lr6.png