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No idea M8, as I said it's a 1st for me. I've got a full scanner and can't ever REM seeing any way anyone even with a powerful diagnostic can change this area of coding. I can certainly see why returning up just 1 big hill will knock hell out of an average but the puter should always be about right - not that far out.

Look the UK + UK foot is the same @ 5,280 international feet. The only difference can be rotational tyre size, binding brakes etc or you do have a-n-other problem. If your mileage readout is wrong it will be the first ever such finding I've ever heard of though I suppose there's always a first time for everything.

Get on a 10/20/30 mile long 50MPH road with no roundabouts. Reset the trip and get the real time readout @ 50MPH. Turn around and do the same reset, same distance @ 70MPH what do you get. MY 2.8 gets 33.9 average up hill down dale in the summer and 2 MPG less in the winter. Everyone will lose a couple of MPG in the cold weather - its normal. Just keeping a 2.8 engine running in ASDA car park or a traffic jam for 10 minutes on tickover will sink your average [ing] MPG. If you only do town work and school runs then 22MPG would be about right. [Edit] You can : Mini-Trip Computer • Average Fuel Economy (ECO AVG) Shows the average fuel economy since the last reset.• Distance To Empty (DTE) Shows the estimated distance that can be travelled with the fuel remaining in the tank. This estimated distance is determined using the MPG for the last few minutes.• Trip Odometer (ODO) Shows the distance travelled since the last reset.• Elapsed Time (ET) Shows the accumulated ignition ON time since the last reset.• Off Mode Shows a blank display. You should also have [year dependant] : • US/M Button Press this button to convert the display from U.S. to metric. Best of luck.

A battery is an essential need, everyone has a different view, mine is 80/800 on these cars - see here. Every single thing in these cars is BUS / computer run and depends on a good battery if I had your list I'd start with a good battery. For now pull your battery [no code needed for default radio] and give it a good charge, refitting will 1st run a full 1st check on the BUS and reset the computers, get a new battery if you need one. Best of luck

HiYa Hotrod 1958, Forums are to help each other why would someone tell you to download in Greek, Russian, Arabic ? - Whole set covering almost a decade of full Chrysler Dodge issue Workshop manuals, money can't buy them they were ever only Main Dealer Licence available. If you had spent a minute, 60 just seconds downloading one before your repost you would have found they are all in English. Best of luck !

They're American, Americans speak & write in English.

Your ThermoTop looks like this http://i.ebayimg.com/images/g/-vEAAOSwcUBYS4xT/s-l1600.jpg The new £15+post s/steel flexi-exhast pipe looks like these

The 42mm CANBUS error free festoon lights I bought were SMD / LED. 70W was the total of the old festoons and the two map lights, the new SMD's gave more light per unit and reduced the total draw from the battery / alternator down to 10W. Yes the dimmers work just the same. The 5050 SMD's I used were these crappy ones but they work ok! I needed 8 but bought 12 @ £1.90 each at the time. The two 501 W5W 8SMD LED for the map-lights were SMD / LED and I had to 'fettle' by soldering bits of wire direct to the old 'wedge' bulb holder. Mines a 2005, you should check that yours are 42mm festoon, ditto the T10 bulb holders in the overhead. Best of luck!

Who reprogrammed your 2 replacement BCM with your VIN and security codes when you fitted them ? If you live near the north east of England I'll give you a free read + clear of your BCM [and other] errors. My advice is stop ..... you have spent endless money going nowhere. Chrysler introduced transponder based anti-theft all the way back in the middle 80's then again in 2004 along with CAN-BUS systems. Your car BCM Issues a challenge & response and your FOB then issues a corresponding VIN ID pin code and the car starts & runs - change the BCM without reprogramming and the car thinks its being stolen.

http://www.lcool.org/technical/120_series/fuel_filter/filter2a.jpg Your spin-on filter [below] question was answered here just 2 days ago. Yes its the only filter. Before you change it hand-pump the primer before you try to start the car on the battery [see here] if its already hard that's good, if it needs more than 1 pump check the filter + water trap for tightness before you put the new one on. A slack spin-on or slack water trap is a prime cause of your other problem. http://i.ebayimg.com/images/g/ipkAAOxyY9VRQXh4/s-l400.jpg

Year after year, time after time : - read forums 1st, buy 2nd - 800 CCA + 80aH is the target size you need - never, never use a 'put your reg number in here' dBase 65 CCA is about right for a hearing aid or a petrol engine mini lawn mower. Any battery 3 years old is a suspect pensioner. Any brand new battery is probably 1/2 empty when you get it. Most 800/80 batteries will NOT fit the battery tray, modding is needed. Lifestyle of the car owner is the biggest killer of starting. Yuasa is a good(ish) brand 65CCA is a size I would never contemplate. I hate spirals but anyone who can't / won't mod should swap the Yuasa for a Redtop, straight swap, 5 minutes, job done. All starting probs are a menu of easy to harder tests and battery is always suspect number one.

And the new battery is how many CCA ?

Mine is engine bay, I already had the OSF wheel off to check brakes, its a straight spin-on. REM to (1) give it a lick of oil and a tight nip on the 0 ring (2) make double sure the white plastic water valve is hand-nipped tight (3) and (4) you can pre-fill the filter and get the LP fuel line up to pressure with the hand pump button which is easy-reach centre between the back of the rad and the front of the engine. Best of luck.

It won't let you because you are a new poster. Just CRTL-V and paste in here one of us will post your pic for you.

The LHS front and the one in the boot are permanent live. The RHS is only live when the ignition is switched on. The RHS front is 12v low wattage the LHS front and the one in the boot are 12v high wattage. If you use the RHS front your camera will switch off when the engine is turned off. If you put your camera in the LHS your camera will be always be turned on - many use this setting for night-guard % supermarkets guard purposes. I hope this helps your understanding.

LHS [or rear boot door] not RHS for the dashcam.

70% off here now ! http://www.eurocarparts.com/catalytic-converter?gclid=Cj0KEQiAhZPDBRCz642XqYOCpb8BEiQANUcwT5_doGtQF5tMLlIwkKxcDBJAWp1sTXoDo_UAstDBtr8aAn1C8P8HAQ

Keep it looking stock, but rod it.

HiYa bignev, yes the 4th Gen went onto a whole new CAN-BUS with the introduction of SATNAV's and other electronic controls many previously unavailable personal preference 'log's' such as his 'n hers radio stations and his 'n hers default memorised FAV locations etc which were written to memory across the new CAN-BUS. Fifth generation

Also 05 on a 2.8 in my case the radio is coded in the BCM software and never needs a code when the battery is off. My 2.8 has a 'shelf fuse' [only pull half out, you will find a ledge, pop it back in in the morning] to stop any unnecessary IOD draw, http://ww2.justanswer.com/uploads/MO/molurch/2014-01-08_040853_iod.png

Most people in the 2.8's never get to 1/2 on the temp gauge in the winter and have to airdam-MOD the front of the grill myself included. Winter MPG is always going to be less than summer MPG, in my case my 33.9 uptill-down dale is always 3MPG less in the winter than summer and my car has an additional Webasto auxiliary heater [thankfully] fitted. Most cars never ever have the anti-freeze checked let alone [front] flushed and replaced with new G05 & distilled water only, particularly once a car is over 3 years old the engine oil, brakes, filters, and highly hydroscopic brake fluid is neglected. Garages will stick any handy type of available fluid in any hole and don't care a hoot - why would they - how would you ever know. For myself I was ashamed when I did a complete cooling fluids flush on its 5th year of low mileage life including the matrix only to find a whole lot more solids and gunk - an unanticipated find in an alloy rad. If yours goes to 'just above' the half consistently that's not overheating, a knackkered stat is designed to fail in the open position [in which case it would stay cold for ever], that suggests your stat is working. http://i.ebayimg.com/images/g/jn4AAOSwPc9W1WVX/s-l1600.jpg

The key dance only shows only the most basic ODBII codes, nothing much use, just the bare bones. All cars these days are in fact 4 different interacting computers. In your case you spent on the fuel [ling] system, my 'starter for ten' is you appear to still have a fuel [ling] / air mix problem. A decent diagnostic scanner should narrow down where to look, many garages have a decent diagnostic scanner, any do not. Best of luck. http://www.totalcardiagnostics.com/images/obd2-codes-explanation.png

1130 could be legacy from your fuel rail problem although I would have expected the garage doing the work to have cleared the code. At half(ish) the MPG expected it suggests you still have the same problem and are over-fuelling, your air / fuel mix must be all to hell or you drive round locked in low gear.

"brakes banging", as a question, I've seen hundreds of times over the years almost all are a damaged sensor, easily and cheaply [not main stealer price] replaced. A damaged or dirty ring coming a long way down the probability scale but always the second thing to check, also easy and visual because you are under there anyway.

This is an actual GV CV joint, it has an ABS RING as part of the joint, the sensor 'reads' the internal grooves in the ring http://i.ebayimg.com/t/CV-JOINT-OUTER-WITH-ABS-RING-CHRYSLER-VOYAGER-GRAND-/00/s/OTYwWDEyODA=/$(KGrHqMOKnIE5!D3Hz18BOY5K,lqHg~~60_12.JPG This is the actual GV reluctor ring itself, read this page [Merc-example] and see the state of most reluctor rings after just one decade of UK 'salt' winters. A good fierce rotary 'cup brush' and a 'scutching hammer' can be the best shot at cleaning one up. http://i.ebayimg.com/00/s/MTYwMFgxNjAw/z/mmAAAOxyffZSZkfJ/$T2eC16F,!zMFIc7eu,3qBSZkfIyhNQ~~60_57.JPG