QinteQ

Battery battery battery 1st. 12.5+ minimum needed, 11v is not even close to cranking, ate you saying you charged the battery up or just partially charged it ? It's a process, battery 1st, earths, IPM, etc before you even think about other options. GV's need 80/800, any battery over 3 years old is suspect. How old is yours and what's it rated at ?

What actual happens is the computer tries to compensate for old knackered ATF+4 and of course for voodoo additions to the mix. Change it and the filter and even then the box has got to be retrained because the computer has changed the gearbox computer settings, and yes there is a setting in the diagnostic for retrain and quick-train [Andy only - I've got one] for it to instantly pick up the new values of the proper fluid. Most mechs and I know hundreds will throw and old anything in your box and swear it was ATF+4, the only way you are ever sure is if you watch him actually pour the the pink stuff in. For those who have no diagnostics (1) battery disconnected for an hour after new fluid (2) battery connected start and go to a 70MPH road (3) gently bently constant medium throttle to 50 in 4th 20 miles stopping and doing the same routine 4 or more times each time on all 4 gears (NOTE) I don't use kickdown or retrain kickdown but it should happen automatically over 45-50MPH under and over use of kickdown 25 needs retraining.

HiYa Andy, the life and half life of all 4 liquids always becomes jaundiced by forum opinions. Unless you have evidence of swarf I see no reason for flushing so : Brake fluid [hydroscopic and never ever changed] do a full vacuum, dump, replace with new @ 80-100k. RAD never ever ever back flush do a complete drain down, replace with new @ 80-100k. Engine drain & refill, its cheap & easy but even a low miler cold school runner can kill engine oil quicker than a hot running high miler. Auto-Box is the main critical one of the 4 to maintain again 80-100k VAC out VAC in about 50%+, I've done it and it works but you need a rigid 8" into the actual old oil to get it out and the whole insertion outside diameter needs to fit down the filler pipe. Everyone knows my views on 'snake oil' cures for every 'voodoo' cure there's an alternative right way of doing things. These box's have a good rep if they are oil maintained only. Best to you M8.

All news to me, griss to the mill, and benefits all GV owners so congrats to the contributors.

HiYs, some EuroVan 2.8's are HP mechanical, filter in engine compartment. Others even of the same year are ' Lucas style' electric lift pump and filter near the rear fuel tank.

Watcha bignev me lad ! Yeh Andy I looked [#2] the very next morning, it took all of 5 minutes to decide main stealer only if your lucky. Available all over USA for $50 OEM & Mopar - £100GB£ in this country and we know the probs even with a VIN. I said that "Flex was always a better bet than tone" hence the reason I asked you in your other thread when you were looking at engine whether you used 'drop gear' or kickdown both of which put an enormous extra flex on the flex-plate. Like others I hope it proves to be flex particularly now that you indicate "two of the nuts look chewed" maybe 100 snots and greasy hands will put you back on the road even though dropping the bell and an extra £60 for new oil is a pain.

Don't know but I'll have a look around for you. Flex was always a better bet than tone. My mate has a cheepo hand held camera scope I could borrow and there should be an inspection hole, the trouble with the flex is you need an articulating camera lens to get a good view. Although in your case it sounds more like the entire centre hole and bolts are completely separated rather than just fracture lines.

Left to its own devices it will just work for up to 2 hours, it's a self contained unit with its own logic. If (1) its cold enough [below 6C] and (2) if you are at least 1/4 full of fuel and (3) the vehicle battery does not drop below 9.6v.

Handbrick - read this of many threads, other threads here. Clockspring pics see below. Chrysler Workshop Manuals for expert repair & diagrams are here - Take your pick, you will need the RG for a CRD here. http://www.chryslerforum.com/forum/attachments/chrysler-voyager-town-country-21/509d1402662039-my-struggles-gv-handbrake-mot-handbrake-003.jpg http://www.chryslerforum.com/forum/attachments/chrysler-voyager-town-country-21/508d1402661929-my-struggles-gv-handbrake-mot-handbrake-001.jpg

My original posts on'clockspring' authored by Leedsman and the 'top hat' drum and parking brake by myself are on here somewhere - I'll find them and repost them here .... later today.

I've made dozens of posts on this: "Put you REG in here" Hardly ever works correctly. You were born with a VIN number anyone can trace the exact precise build to them minute. REG numbers can be and are changed in any country in the world, if they used the REG to interrogate the VIN that would do but that takes time and they could have asked for the VIN in the 1st place. Most useless Voyager dBase's don't even know about stow 'n go and many don't recognise pre-2008, in my view these 'hands off, no humans' dBASE are pretty inaccurate and put you at risk as Nev says!

The real question on Voyager DIH brakes is why a new cable, its almost never ever cable unless the cable is literally snapped and I've never known one snap they use a huge internal clock spring to provide and mitigate tension which is why if applied by a big man with two hands on it you can not over tension.

Electromagnetic or ultrasonic, I'm not sure which, I think the sonic is the internal one because it reads any interrupt whereas magnetic can read distance.

Very few full diagnostic scanners will read all codes well. A diagnostic scanner will cost north of £1500, you'd be better sticking to the key-dance and keeping your money for things that might be of use to you my friend.

My bad - wrong thread !

Powerful and wealthy lobby group in California leads to tax dollars for the state & the hairy shirters get to feel greener. Would need to be agreed by Europe all of America and the whole world legislation would have to change leading to a change in manufacturing. Not in my lifetime mate - never gonna happen.

Its a 2 1/2 ton - 3 litre mota, the most expensive cost is your right foot. Town work is always gonna be ± 25. Out of town I'm light of foot and live in 'cruise' mode which will save me 1,000RPM in any gear @ any speed. The 41TE has a permanently running software adjustment that will recognise and give you what you want, heavy clog drivers gets lotsa REV's light footers better mileage lower RPM.

It takes all of 5 mins to take the entire heavy mirror housing off and do the job safely with warm fingers in the living room. YouTube is your friend.

I have a digital 'ring' meter readout permanently to the RHS cigarette lighter output and can see the voltage input to the battery 'live'. The buttonMOD merely fools the BCM coding to give you back what we always had before we went backwards from 14.4v to 13.7v.

Cars are run by compuyers. Code not needed for battery of on this model. Best of luck.

BatteryMOD ButtonMOD Changing the 33K Ω @ 1/2 watt to 22K Ω @ 1/2 watt keeps it under the 4.6[ish] [although I'm sure it would be safe a little higher]. I did get the extra .3's @ 14.4+ I was aiming for. This will better recover the winter loss more quickly. Of course in the summer the ALT output will be limited by the lower battery replenishment needs.

Glow plugs are on for 15-30 seconds, you see the warning light for 5 seconds but they are actually on for a lot longer. Check LP fuel line & filter.

SKIM is your immobiliser or Smart Key Immobilizer Module, the code is in the BCM.

It could be anything serious or simply a bad eaarth or starter motor isssue. If ALL the gears PRND3L are lit it means the TCM itself does not know what gear is selected. (1) Push and hold the trip button [you should see a SOF number], (2) then turn the IGN on, (3) then release the trip button and you should see any/all error codes. Are you sure its all box's, usually the 3rd & reverse are not lit because they are mechanical only and not related to the computer/TCM ?

The inline stat will give give you back your 1/2 way on the temp gauge. Add the 99p worth of Screwfix lagging will 1/2 the time in minutes it takes to get the 1/2 way on the temp gauge. Add the 'button battery mod' will give you back your 'old school' battery charging voltage rate. Inline stat, £10 + 10 minutes. Air dam lagging, £1 + 10 minutes. Battery mod, 20p + 5 minutes.