QinteQ

The R 428 which is the 2.8 engine has wet liners and can run without problems on 5W40 / 10W40 etc, personally I run on 5W40 viscosity. We often get below 5°C- but hardly ever more than 35/8 °C in these islands.

Yes I have constantly bleated that gordy .. .. and one main reason for my conclusion ! As a lifelong self-maintainer I would have fought anyone accusing me of less than 'super diligent' maintenance yet when I did a complete [oil] [water] [brake fluid] [autobox] change of all wets I was mortified to find a lumpy carrots and tatties in the coolant. Unless you yourself have maintained it from brand new, and none of us will have always assume all three are well knackered. The brake fluid is hydroscopic, the wrong cheepo oil / filters and coolant is always used by both garages and pet fitters. Do your car a favour, this trilogy of fluids are your lifeblood. Never backflush a RAD, always use HOAT, it will self bleed from the expansion bottle, always open the heater to full belt and change the fluid in the matrix. Best of luck. HOAT only coolant ATF+4 only Mopar Spec AutoBox oil

To activate the Self-Diagnostic program: With the ignition switch in the OFF position, depress the TRIP ODOMETER RESET button. Continue to hold the TRIP ODOMETER RESET button until "Sof" and a number (software version number appears briefly in the odometer window, then release the button. If a fault code is present, the cluster will display it in the odometer display. When all fault codes have been displayed [write them down], the cluster will display “end” or "E" for end in the odometer display. You should reboot the computers that feed the loom, disconnect the negative battery cable and leave it over for about an hour. This should reset most of the codes on your GV, I'm assuming you are 04-07 in which will not lose your radio codes. Best of luck.

Quick 'n effective is an inline statMOD Inline stat, £10 + 10 minutes. Air dam lagging, £1 + 10 minutes. Battery mod, 20p + 5 minutes.

They're designed never to stick closed always open. There are no diesel manuals, see here for the full Chrysler's own manuals set including diesels. Best of luck.

Andy can we make it Wed the 12th M8, sudden funeral in Stranton on Wed 5th, hope that's ok !

No probs andy, known good starts should automatically switch of the TRAC anyway if the wheel rotation sensors are reading right, but yes I'll have a look. I've dug out that 7 series Autel ODB/ODB2 for you, never tested it on a GV [can't even REM what year I bought it] but I'll take it to our JIMBO's you try it and if it reads your car you can have it FOC anyway, it'll only get left in my box anyway ! I keep telling the group .. .. readers read & scan means generic, if it does not say diagnostics it does not do more than P/O-0-2-3-4 [note does not do P30 manufacturers] ODB2. Much better to bite-the-bullet Best of luck. http://www.totalcardiagnostics.com/images/obd2-codes-explanation.png

From the early copy's to now many have transferred the diags to 7 & 10 tablets such as the Nexus O/S and others. Here for example just over the road from Andy a pre installed 10" updated and update-able for cheap money. Many years ago I bought a single manufacturer diag for Fiat and managed to load on it x3 other makers when I realised there was spare memory space to load all for for the price of one, so many things can be done. Its been in my box for years and years - I'll test it on a GV CRD and if it reads ok Any can have it for free, he knows where he can find me on Wednesdays.

Dip yer toe in here karmannski and read this M8. I've used a clone for a long time with no issues and as stated earlier my legal MS708 would not read my 05 2.8 - its a minefield !

"Good info, can you guys feed back on how good they are and what info it does and doesn't give back?" Might be better to insert GV's in the line Andy ! "Good info, can you guys feed back on how good they are on GV's and what info it does and doesn't give back?" I'm sorry mikebh8 had to pay but even the best get caught out. I've used high end snap-on's that are useless with the CRD's. I own a legal registered MaxiDAS that will not read CRD's, its ballistic fast and brilliant in every respect but flatly denies any Chrysler diesel exists even though it returns P & U codes. The only one I can guarantee is the Launch x431 diagun, the 'grey' I bought in 2013 is still going strong. Anyone with a knackked 'grey' one can consider....... Experience suggests that out of 20 proper top-of-the- range diagnostic scanners only a few will work in all areas, but that's always been the case.

Original thread from 2015 here, the #7 Leedsman original is here. I did a further mod and changed the the 33K Ω @ 1/2 watt to 22K Ω @ 1/2 watt keeps it under the 4.6[ish] [although I'm sure it would be safe a little higher]. I did get the extra .3's @ 14.4+ I was aiming for. This will better recover the winter loss more quickly. Of course in the summer the ALT output will be limited by the lower battery replenishment needs. That thread is here and I can confirm that I had 14.5-6V over the winter and its now an average of 14.3-4V summer.

Battery Battery choice, like choosing a wife, provokes different opinions on what is beautiful. The issue however are simple. You should be looking for about 800CCA over 80aH, this is a physical size that will not fit the CRD battery tray, so get a big one and modify the tray, or get a smaller one and take your UK winter chances. There is a~n~other UK issue of lifestyle, its a use it or lose it condition. If like me you do 2000 miles per annum with two 15 minutes trips once a week you will regardless of battery size / cost never keep that battery charged, the BUS [over 7 or so days] at resting will use more than the 30 minutes the alternator was able to replace. Different people have success with different batteries, I'm sure the UK users will come to your aid with their suggestions, particularly the Scottish contingent who have an even colder climate than I. For myself I originally had a Banner Uni Bull 690 over 70 and my replacement was a Bosch S5 Type 96 at 800 over 80. Best of luck. Power seat fuse : are as stated droppers, as you have had your battery removed for 4 days the 'droppers' should re-set themselves via the BCM/IPM Lifestyle : Two 15 minutes trips once a week. The higher the voltage applied, the faster the battery will charge, charging at too high a voltage WILL damage your battery. A simple 100Ah open lead acid battery and a 180A charger connected to the battery discharged to 50% : - @ 50% full @ 13.2V current was 35A - @ 50% full @ 14,8V current was 160A [improvement of 457%] - @ 75% full @ 13.2V current was 1A - @ 75% full @ 14.8V current was 60A [improvement of 6000%] Its not linear so : - two 15 minute periods @ 13.2V is 2 x 15 minute @ 21Ah, compared to ; - two 15 minute periods @ 14.4V is 2 x 15 minute @ 60Ah, is an improvement of about 300% The temperature sensor under the battery will drop [ temperature compensator's on modern alternators will compensate] the voltage output from about 14.0V to about 13.2V. The problem I have with this is the engine compartment soon reaches temp and the battery assumes its fully charged. - 13.20 volts is about what you would expect from [split diode - does not apply to Voyagers, and] this vehicle with a temp sensor & alternator compensator - 14.00 volts is about what you would expect from any typical alternator without a vehicle temp sensor & alternator compensator - 14.40 volts is what you would expect from a sealed lead acid to prevent [they tend to gas @ 50ºC] excessive gassing - 14.80 volts is what you can risk pushing it to with an open lead acid to prevent damage to other equipment connected to the battery at the same time NOTE01 : There are IOD 7 functions that are 'live' when you think your car and battery are asleep, they pull a combined 0.025 ampere draw. I used a Maplins cheepo solar panel which cost me £15 at the time, and I have never been unable to start the car since. They are : • Electrical items left on. • Faulty or improperly adjusted switches. • Faulty or shorted electronic modules and components. • An internally shorted generator. • Intermittent shorts in the wiring Remote key fob Radio Heater blower Folding mirrors Central locks Interior lights when the key is in the ignition IGNITION-OFF DRAW TEST - reproduced from the workshop manual - According to Chrysler's own workshop manual : Allow twenty minutes for the IOD to stabilize and observe the multi-meter reading. The low-amper- age IOD should not exceed twenty-five milliamperes (0.025 ampere). If the current draw exceeds twenty-five milliamperes, isolate each circuit using the fuse and circuit breaker remove-and-replace process in Step 4. The multi-meter reading will drop to within the acceptable limit when the source of the excessive current draw is disconnected. Repair this circuit as required; whether a wiring short, incorrect switch adjustment, or a component failure is at fault The term Ignition-Off Draw (IOD) identifies a normal condition where power is being drained from the battery with the ignition switch in the Off position. A normal vehicle electrical system will draw from fifteen to twenty five milliamperes (0.015 to 0.025 ampere) with the ignition switch in the Off position, and all non-ignition controlled circuits in proper working order. Up to twenty-five milliamperes are needed to enable the memory functions for the Powertrain Control Module (PCM), digital clock, electronically tuned radio, and other modules which may vary with the vehicle equipment. A vehicle that has not been operated for approximately twenty one days, may discharge the battery to an inadequate level. When a vehicle will not be used for twenty one days or more (stored), remove the IOD fuse from the Integrated Power Module (IPM). This will reduce battery discharging. BatteryMOD I like many of us was an early adopter of AGM, most of us by now will be AGM. It occurs to me that the safe μF we chose for the buttonMOD could be changed to give closer to 14.4V than the 14.1 I was getting. I went 13.9 to 14.1 it would be nice to have that extra .3V, it would make a hell of a difference on a big 80aH even over such a short charging time frame as 15 minutes. I was thinking 22K Ω @ 1/2 watt would be a goodish guesstimate for keeping it under the 14.6[ish] although I'm sure it would be safe a little higher. I'll be happy if I can get to the extra .3's @ 14.4 * Tested .... smack on 14.4-6 winter and 14+ summer over a 6 month period steady across the REV range. This will better recover the winter loss more quickly. Of course in the summer the ALT output will be limited by the lower battery replenishment needs Well pleased !

14.6 without first having the ButtonMOD wiring completed is unheard of my friend. The BCM applies a 'limiter' denying the battery anything over 14V. This IOD issue earns a 'frequent' label on these forums and though it can be anyone of dozens causes usually it starts with the "its definitely not the battery" phrase. So eliminate battery then bodge wiring particularly audio. Best of luck.

Good glad you're sorted Dave. To help your understanding on your model all the work is high pressure vacuum suck not blow as in a electromechanical fuel pump in the tank. At that point there is enough [#5 having just enough fuel in stock up front ] to start the car. If you get any air in or a vacuum out that displaces pressure and fuel. If your car starts and runs with the use of the primer button you have as you have found just that air in or a vacuum out on your low pressure side.

Screw on filter 0 ring bad or an idiot has put x2 0 rings on [happens all the time] Screw on white plastic water trap on the end of the screw on filter [see below] has rattled loose [happens frequently] allowing air into the vacuum Screw on filter itself is full of crap and will not allow fuel to pass at LP Whole plastic housing is cracked allowing air into the vacuum Check pipework for cracks You have an Low Pressure part and the High Pressure part, the HP is the massive injector pump that will pull all the way from the tank, the low pressure bit relies on having just enough in stock up front to start. Any part of the LP that is weak enough to allow air in will displace diesel and allow leakback to the tank return. http://i.ebayimg.com/images/g/0aIAAOSwmLlYAS2O/s-l1600.jpg

Rev Revving to what RPM, a limiter kicks in to stop you doing it ! Bright super shiny pink ! What 'soupstone' said .. .. .. never ever anything else !

For the O/P full main stealer workshop manuals list here, the elusive copy of the RG diesel is here.

NEG battery terminal off 16 minutes will reset the BCM and the IPM which distributes power to the doors when the BCM instructs them to open / close. If that does not help back to the door chain which can be intermittent and usually makes / breaks according to the stress point of the curve. Lot's of vids on YouTube. Best of luck.

.#3. Battery battery battery 1st : 4 days later did you fully charge your 1 year old battery, and what charge did it show [11.9V is knackered - 12.0 is only 25% full and won't hardly start a small diesel] alternatively did you buy a new one and what did you buy, and does your car start 1st time ? .#14. Power seat fuse : are as stated droppers, as you have had your battery removed for 4 days the 'droppers' should re-set themselves via the BCM/IPM .#17. Can you give me a link to the Battery Mod:Its in #4 for you, link again here, you just cut the 5V supply wire 2 minutes Andy did his and put it pics on his facebook blog

I've just linked at mine for you mine was the cheepo 408 9 stage 8amp charger. Now it's poss that some poor sod in a warehouse picked up a 9 stage instead of an intended 7 stage by mistake. I'm sure these 'grey' units are a clone rip off of the ctec chip but I have tested it and it works My spare £150 S6 has been permananly plugged in to this charger for over a year.If buying one saves you £100 on the ctec ..... good. The batteryMOD is the very best single mod to do to a GV, 5 minutes and 20p well spent.

IOD draw and battery terminal. IOD of 0.025 ampere should be the draw AFTER 16 minutes forum post. When you switch off and alarm and walk away your car is not asleep, its polling all sorts of thigs for a 1/4 of an hour, only them does it go to sleep. This is the Ring charger bought last year for £20 some quid, find one cheaper - I bought mine online from a car bits shop last year from Whityby. I don't know the 3.3 or the year but I'd say no only one, the one under the drivers seat etc are very high amps and are resettable droppers rather than fuses. You have followed exactly the same thought process and testing routine I've used.

Optima thread here, type 96 describes all / any brand close to 80/800 such as the Varta E38 etc. Dont ever under any circumstances use one of those put your REG in here. Loads of info including cutting the battery tray walkthrough here. If the O/P has had issues since 2003 what recent changes to wiring particularly new radio have been made to wiring leading to IOD issues and parasitic drain. Does the O/P live anywhere near the north of the north of England ?

"should need" needs to read "should NOT need"

The blue stuff in #4 cover most you need to know. The battery you already have should be adequate for these temps, personally I like 800/80 for British winters. Most 800/80's will not fit the battery tray and a saw/angle grinder needs to cut bits off. The Optima 'red top 4.2' spirals are one battery that will go straight in - straight swap and do the job. Most 'conditioners' are useless IMO, always take pro advice. Conditioners describe de-sulphing, a one year old battery no matter how badly treated should need de-sulphing. You can pay a fortune for smart chargers, I bought a 7 stage 'grey' smart for about £20 and I know it works so you can get one cheap. Start by giving your existing battery a good charge, if you can't get it to 12.75 its goosed, I've got a pro digital CCA counter you would be amazed to see how many infrequently used cars don't put out even 1/2 their stated CC starting amps. Want more - ask, we are all here to help each other. Best of luck.

IPM - alternator is overvolting killing the plates- alternator is undervolting and not charging enough- battery was / is of an underpowered size and cant hold enough CCA- the parasitic drain is permanently too high and the system can't hold charge- your lifestyle is causing the issue, starting the car then not running for enough minutes to recharge the battery- simply put one or too short a journey per week will kill the battery because it never replaces the initial energy used to start the car GV's are a pig ButtonMOD Leedsman Optima Spiral Red Top