QinteQ

They're a lousey legal limit of 1600kg, I noticed a post in Birmingham selling a stamped oil cooler for £85

Full workshop manuals list here, the elusive copy of the RG diesel is here.

Same as Blue Print / JapanParts / Denso part : 05072176AA Height (mm): 23 Length (mm): 303 Width (mm): 208 here :

The same FOB does lock/unlock on (1) both the drivers doors [driver & rear-sliding] and (2) all 4 doors depending on the software setting, you can set either preference but only with the proper scanner. With with single side set in the BCM software you would need to press the unlock button TWICE to open all four doors.

I admire your attempt to 'have a go'. I [and bignev] like you tried this many years ago for no reason other than curiosity .. .. as I already had x2 working keys and FOBS and my MaxiDAS708 will code keys, my x431 will not, as bignev said its not the person its the kit. Most mobile key techies use a keys only specific tool that does not do immobiliser, ECU and remote's. Just ask anyone you choose to use if they can do what you want them to do - and - if they won't charge you anything if they can't do the job you are paying for. The test is easy - (1) reveal the 6th 'panic' button [little microswitch, that can be depressed] on your already coded key & FOB and you still won't be able to do it because the 'track' on the membrane is missing and (2) because for whatever reason the SKIM codes can't be read even with a good generalist diagnostic machine. See here and the best of luck.

That's owld sods for you bignev, long memories are all 'time earned'.

Calorstat, you must indeed be French my friend ! Andy and the stat here

It's a DIY 15 minutes and 15 quid, look for 'inline stat mod' 100% effective. If you flush the RAD & matrix never back flush and always use HOAT, the car will self bleed through the open filler hole.

Rolling the car backwards was an inadvertently interesting comment to me. A Story I called the system design she-brakes. Back in the 'big block shooting brake' days when rich America was in the middle of a roads and housing boom new towns just off motorways were built with big wide boulevard's and the roads were deliberately sunk low so drives were up a slope to allow drainage from the property. There was a rash of insurance claims made for 2 1/2 ton cars rolling unattended backwards into traffic so the 'top hat' shoe was redesigned to grab the trailing rather than the leading edge - after all it's a parking brake design not a handbreak. This still exists as far as I'm aware to this day.

Accelerator RPM is 'governed' @ idle, so normal. You clearly have as stated an LP issue of leaky housing, pipes, as stated. I've only ever came across one single 2.8 with rear filter, and electric lift pump ever. Priming after filter replacement is as mikebh8 says using the hand primer. Watch out for double 0 ring and water trap tightness and check pipework for leaks.

I'm long past the boy racer, well in excess of the 70 years and apart from getting caught once at my grannies aged 19 when I sneaked off route for a for quick scrambled eggs with an army Champ pulling a 680lb 120mm L4 mobile Wombat Cannon and 6 28.3lbs shells by the bobbies I've never been in trouble. I always to purpose uprate the disks & callipers, the rim thing was not my reason for doing it. It was to spend on good braking not good looks. Its strange but I have not yet found for an example only why Brembo 310 disks are sold to the UK but 310 callipers are not, maybe the diff twixt 305 & 315 is an allowable parameter. I am going to do it but I need more info scavenging ready made larger pistons or 2 or even 4 pot plus higher coefficient of friction pad material upgrades, I don't want to start lug conversion moddin or any other bolt pattern changes. I did my back brakes a in 2015 and they were disgusting. I've said many times on this forums the brakes ..... all of them are a useless and underrated throwback to the American old she brake - pre-disk ratings requirement as is evidenced by the fact that at the same weight of vehicle the Dodge Chrysler Jeep stable enjoy the safety and performance of bigger 310's all round as a minimum from 2008. The 310's have a healthy aftermarket upgrade supply the 302's never did and 7 years on never will. I've got good Chrysler factory alloys, all with still new[ish] boots that have done less than 1200 miles and I've just spent lotsa lolly on brand new small parts set, new disks, new pads on the rear and intended doing the same for the front this time with uprated slot & drill disks and green stuff pads. It occurs to me that at my age I'm keeping this bus and I will pay for big disks and good pads all round and sell my existing good stuff on local collect for a contribution to my costs before the new pads, disks, shoes have even done 1000 miles. If it comes with cost of having to buy competition alloys that cost about the same as non competition alloys - I'll bite that bullet too. Did the same this Easter on the front end, all new everything brakes, and serviced gearbox & engine including all fluids especially a complete clean out of the 10 year old 'hydroscopic' brake fluid and new stuff in.

Rear handbrick comes after the 'pull adjuster' There are reams of excellent forum advice [here is the original Leedsman authored article] and walkthroughs, and you will need at some point to do a full 'top hat' service. You need to do the usual, don't be shocked to find pistons seized, linings down to rivets, and a disgusting mess. Most people don't do them at all including the garage you paid to do them. Even when they are done you should [once in the GV's lifetime] replace the essential 'small parts bag components' and clean all other surfaces, as in bright metal and lube is the key to starting on the rear foot & parking brake conundrum, its never been cleaned in its lifetime of say 10 years. Next is the (2) after 1 September 2010 requirement for 58% service brake pass test in truth if you spend hours doing it right it will still depend on whether you want to invest heavily in the extra effort mile. - only at that point will you get to the best parking brake efficiency % you can hope to with any vehicle of this weight / type. We are all here to help each other, best of luck frogland.

DUP

You are correct in assuming fuel first as it turns [battery] and starts, so its (1) Fuel, (2) Fuel or (3) Fuel. It can and frequently be dirty filter, water contaminated filter, air in, vacuum loss, etc. Pull the NEG from the battery for 16 minutes to reset [you won't lose the radio code] your P codes. Put a new diesel filter in, watch for x2 '0' rings and double check the white plastic water drain on the bottom is fitted tightly and does not rattle, then thoroughly check all lines & pipes, put the filter heater power plug back and reconnect the NEG cable. Push the hand primer pump [central twixt RAD & grill till its hard and primed. Start car, does it ?. That primer should be hard every morning after being parked up, if it isn't its back to air in, vacuum loss, connections. Best of luck.

Copy that !

Next Tue not Wed if that's ok Andy!!

Wilco, if anything else goes wrong I'll come over just for that one job on any-other mutual night.

Going to have to do it again Andy. Got to take my grandkid to Durham for a 2-3 [civil service] interview on Wed.

I've got access to 3 different up to date snap-on within 3 minutes of here and several other brands, none of which were to my satisfaction because they don't do what my existing old x431 [non v3 / non pro] 3" v1 2016 edition does. The old v1 x431 does do everything on my 05 2.8 CRD, but that doesn't mean that it or any specific scanner does all things across the whole range . . none of them do . . . ask anyone who knows these things and has to use them all day long every day. Most small garages have two for a reason, bigger places also have dual trace scopes in conjunction with a diagnostic scanner and diagnostic equipment is useless without experience & expensive training or for the novice even more expensive a scanner with guided diagnostics / the HGS. No one diagnostic scanner does all parts of all cars. My observation is that the GV/Town & Country does not have a CRD as far as the Americans are concerned, so from the cheap Haynes manuals to expensive diagnostic scanners there's no diesel powertrain module even if it does read your VIN number properly and many don't.

Just today I tested the 10" x431 Pro v3 2017 @ grey £300 as an update for my old x431 [non v3 / non pro] 3" v1 2013 which still works perfectly. The new one would not read my VIN and as such unsurprisingly found no codes even though I introduced x2 known codes just before arriving for the test. Additionally it was hit and megga miss with the bluetooth connetion - so nogo, care to check what people are selling folks

Where were you ?

Inline 15 minutes £15 . Andy home vid in in the tread.

Appreciated M8, I could leave the meter @ Jimbo's for you to borrow and you can self-teach / dig around in it and see if you can re-set and clear it yourself. Can be many things but 99% wheel sensor, when done should turn its own MIL off in [x] known good starts. Mind you I would think it should already have turned itself off by now. Try a NEG off 16 mins and reset the BCM.

Sorry again M8. I'm gonna have to let you down again, no-can-do on Wed 12th. Look if you are in need I'll come to your 20 one night in the next week and read it.