QinteQ

See here. It's in the handbook, see below : http://i.imgur.com/NfkynEp.png Even if you have no handbook, if you look at the plastic surrounding the key insert you will see a clearly defined elevated [in relief] plastic line 'key removal point', so defined in fact that a blind man could feel it without sight. Welcome to the GV owners forum, they do suffer badly with 'parasitic drain' that's something you have to look forward to next winter. There's plenty of info in the forum - if you are stuck - just ask my friend.

Ditto Andy.

UK GOV Bio Some diesel biofuels made from food crops, produce more emissions than fossil fuels and bump up the price of food crops. The 4.75% in fuel is going to rise towards the 10% EU-wide target by 2020.

A 'spin on' metal can with plastic water drain tap on the end. http://i.ebayimg.com/images/g/CSsAAOSwlfxXHAnv/s-l400.jpg Spin off the old one and lubricate the ring on the top of the new one with a finger of engine oil, make sure the plastic drain tap on the bottom of the new one is tight, and spin on the new cannister. Draw through the diesel with the hand lift pump which is central between RAD and engine, when the hand pump is hard you have done the job. A slack[ened] drain tap or loose[ned] can seat is a big LP favourite for "car turns over but will not start". Best of luck.

That's the auto shutdown relay you've by-passed isn't it Andrips ? The bigger relay to the left is the starter motor relay. [ignore the red arrow on pic #3] http://ww2.justanswer.com/uploads/MO/molurch/2014-01-08_040853_iod.pnghttp://i.imgur.com/cx2FBKc.jpg

Essential small parts set linked here 5 year ago Andy http://i10.ebayimg.com/03/i/001/21/9e/492e_12.JPG

All Listing (s) [index] including Handbrick

GV Handbrick

- Clicking relays are flat battery - Headlamps on mainbeam and IGN turned to crank - - lights go dim = battery - - lights don't go dim = trigger wire / spade - As bigev says - volts aren't AMPS, got that right, if only all the people knew why Check the trigger, 99/100 its just a manky spade etc, more than that start here. Best of luck.

Alloy heat shield [baffle plate] above exhaust protecting the underside floor from heat, I snipped mine out 5 years ago, no negative effects. Steel bolts go through alloy shield into steel capture nut usual chemical corrosion.

Edit ref bignev

Edit ref bignev

Edit ref bignev

Edit ref bignev

Auto - put your foot on the footbrake.

The inline stat will give give you back your 1/2 way on the temp gauge. Add the 99p worth of Screwfix lagging will 1/2 the time in minutes it takes to get the 1/2 way on the temp gauge. Add the 'button battery mod' will give you back your 'old school' battery charging voltage rate. Inline stat, £10 + 10 minutes. Air dam lagging, £1 + 10 minutes. Battery mod, 20p + 5 minutes.

What's worrying about 14.5, perfect for winter. In the summer you'll see the 14's down to 13's as the starting is less stress on the battery. Congratulations. BTW the wire you cut goes to a button sensor under the battery tray that reads temperature, hence the name buttonMOD.

IGNITION-OFF DRAW TEST - reproduced from the workshop manual The term Ignition-Off Draw (IOD) identifies a normal condition where power is being drained from the battery with the ignition switch in the Off position. A normal vehicle electrical system will draw from fifteen to twenty five milliamperes (0.015 to 0.025 ampere) with the ignition switch in the Off position, and all non-ignition controlled circuits in proper working order. Up to twenty-five milliamperes are needed to enable the memory functions for the Powertrain Control Module (PCM), digital clock, electronically tuned radio, and other modules which may vary with the vehicle equipment. A vehicle that has not been operated for approximately twenty one days, may discharge the battery to an inadequate level. When a vehicle will not be used for twenty one days or more (stored), remove the IOD fuse from the Integrated Power Module (IPM). This will reduce batterydischarging. Excessive IOD can be caused by: • Electrical items left on. • Faulty or improperly adjusted switches. • Faulty or shorted electronic modules and components. • An internally shorted generator. • Intermittent shorts in the wiring If the IOD is over twenty five milliamperes, the problem must be found and corrected before replacing a battery. In most cases, the battery can be charged and returned to service after the excessive IOD condition has been corrected. (1) Verify that all electrical accessories are off. Turn off all lamps, remove the ignition key, and close all doors. If the vehicle is equipped with an illumi-nated entry system or an electronically tuned radio, allow the electronic timer function of these systems to automatically shut off (time out). This may take up to twenty minutes. (2) Disconnect the batterynegative cable. (3) Set an electronic digital multi-meter to its highest amperage scale. Connect the multi-meter between the disconnected batterynegative cable terminal clamp and the battery negative terminal post. Make sure that the doors remain closed so that the illuminated entry system is not activated. The multi-meter amperage reading may remain high for up to three minutes, or may not give any reading at all while set in the highest amperage scale, depending upon the electrical equipment in the vehicle. The multi-meter leads must be securely clamped to the battery negative cable terminal clamp and the battery negative terminal post. If continuity between the battery negative terminal post and the negative cable terminal clamp is lost during any part of the IOD test, the electronic timer function will be activated and all of the tests will have to be repeated. (4) After about three minutes, the high-amperage IOD reading on the multi-meter should become very low or nonexistent, depending upon the electrical equipment in the vehicle. If the amperage reading remains high, remove and replace each fuse or circuit breaker in the Integrated Power Module (IPM), one at a time until the amperage reading becomes very low, or nonexistent. Refer to the appropriate wiring information for complete Integrated Power Module fuse, circuit breaker, and circuit identification. This will isolate each circuit and identify the circuit that is the source of the high-amperage IOD. Bottom line is .. .. continual undercharging is U/S battery or infrequent use. New £100 battery or New £100 battery charging or New £100 solar maintainer or New £100 electric handbag are all fraught. The only workable contributive workaround I've found is the batteryMOD. Its well documented from years ago by myself and others and comes the closest to keeping the car running for those of us of which I am one with "infrequent use" problems. The above is not a stab in the dark, a helpful guess etc but something I've actually tried. I do two 15 mile trips a week, tried little intermediate and big solar panels in the windscreen for 2 years and they don't work in the winter. Don't waste your money - go for what does work - by someone who has found out by trial and error. Best of luck.

Answer to the question asked : Get one of these, Chinese copy of the expensive CTEK 9 stage charger. https://www.amazon.co.uk/Automotive-Intelligent-Battery-Charger-RSC408/dp/B00MRB3PFC

It will not help, you would need a good quality German spec 80w panel with good winter light charging quality to act as a maintainer and even then my answer assumes a CCA of about 800 and a fresh in-date quality battery and normal ChryslerGV spec IOD. Best of luck. Look up "infrequent use" in the search on this forum.

- get some lagging from Screwfix 99p a length - cut to fit in the grill - throw away [or save till next winter] come summer - do the same next year - putting a new stat in is a pigs job - fit an inline stat - 20 minutes - £20 - GATES Part Number TH01489 from rockauto uk - temp should be just under 1/2, any less than that and you will never get heat regardless - quick school runs only and you will never get heat from the big engine lump The original post, best of luck.

You need to have about 1/2 on the temp gauge or your engine will be inefficient and anyway in a very short time you'll have ice on the inside of the windscreen and never get up to working temp. The inline stat will give give you back your 1/2 way on the temp gauge. Add the 99p worth of Screwfix lagging will 1/2 the time in minutes it takes to get the 1/2 way on the temp gauge. Add the 'button battery mod' will give you back your 'old school' battery charging voltage rate'. Inline stat, £10 + 10 minutes. Air dam lagging, £1 + 10 minutes. Battery mod, 20p + 5 minutes. Best of luck

Hoat05, so ditch the mullet & grunge music along with pink green and rust and and never mix versions of coolant / antifreeze. So Chrysler is right - go with HOAT and nothing else which is a hybrid coolant because it contains additive ingredients from both OAT and conventional formulas and remains compatible with both.

Flush - but never back-flush, and only ever flush with tapoline. Many [including parts distributors] fitters laugh when distilled is asked for. Distilled is a quid a gallon the Hoat / distilled ratio is 50/50%, so one gallon of hoat and one gallon of distilled. I used comma & distilled but the Zerex is the same spec. Colour varies country to country, I'm not sure there is an actual internationally agreed standard. I just partially pulled the bottom hose, put the garden hose in the expansion bottle, filling was correlated to the rate of empty-ing, set the heater to full belt [flushes the matrix] and started the engine [caveat emptor applies], you will see the pulse / squirt into the semi-transparent filler bottle. When the colour and the crap was out I replaced the bottom hose and filled at 50 / 50, then left it running for 20 minutes to burp. Always check level the next day - just in case. As to the discrepancy "5.8 litres of water is remaining in the system" I've no idea but if you front flush as above then drain out your minimum 5 litres of G05 you are already working with clean tapoline. I went one further and used 2 x £1 quid bottles of distilled instead of tapoline. Best of luck.

Turn the heat full belt to open the matrix and open the water filler bottle let it heat up it will bleed out of the open filler cap. £10 and 10 minutes for the stat mod. You also need thee air-damMOD and the batterybuttonMOD for the winter. H05 for the coolant and Best of luck.