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Battery choice, like choosing a wife, provokes different opinions on what is beautiful. The issue however are simple. You should be looking for about 800CCA over 80aH, this is a physical size that will not fit the CRD battery tray, so get a big one and modify the tray, or get a smaller one and take your UK winter chances. There is a~n~other UK issue of lifestyle, its a use it or lose it condition. If like me you do 2000 miles per annum with two 15 minutes trips once a week you will regardless of battery size / cost never keep that battery charged, the BUS [over 7 or so days] at resting will use more than the 30 minutes the alternator was able to replace. Different people have success with different batteries, I'm sure the UK users will come to your aid with their suggestions, particularly the Scottish contingent who have an even colder climate than I. For myself I originally had a Banner Uni Bull 690 over 70 and my replacement was a Bosch S5 Type 96 at 800 over 80. Best of luck. Lifestyle : Two 15 minutes trips once a week. The higher the voltage applied, the faster the battery will charge, charging at too high a voltage WILL damage your battery. A simple 100Ah open lead acid battery and a 180A charger connected to the battery discharged to 50% : - @ 50% full @ 13.2V current was 35A - @ 50% full @ 14,8V current was 160A [improvement of 457%] - @ 75% full @ 13.2V current was 1A - @ 75% full @ 14.8V current was 60A [improvement of 6000%] - two 15 minute periods @ 13.2V is 2 x 15 minute @ 21Ah, compared to ; - two 15 minute periods @ 14.4V is 2 x 15 minute @ 60Ah, is an improvement of about 300% The temperature sensor under the battery will drop [ temperature compensator's on modern alternators will compensate] the voltage output from about 14.0V to about 13.2V. The problem I have with this is the engine compartment soon reaches temp and the battery assumes its fully charged. - 13.20 volts is about what you would expect from [split diode - does not apply to Voyagers, and] this vehicle with a temp sensor & alternator compensator - 14.00 volts is about what you would expect from any typical alternator without a vehicle temp sensor & alternator compensator - 14.40 volts is what you would expect from a sealed lead acid to prevent [they tend to gas @ 50ºC] excessive gassing - 14.80 volts is what you can risk pushing it to with an open lead acid to prevent damage to other equipment connected to the battery at the same time NOTE01 : I wouldn't buy one, or use one, but in the interests of even handed-ness a spiral will do the job - make sure you get the right 'posts' for your type ! NOTE02 : There are IOD 7 functions that are 'live' when you think your car and battery are asleep, they pull a combined 0.025 ampere draw. I used a Maplins cheepo 4W solar panel which cost me £15 at the time, and it was useless. I used a top end German 80W solar system, woprked in the summer useless in the winter. IGNITION-OFF DRAW TEST - reproduced from the workshop manual. The term Ignition-Off Draw (IOD) identifies a normal condition where power is being drained from the battery with the ignition switch in the Off position. A normal vehicle electrical system will draw from fifteen to twenty five milliamperes (0.015 to 0.025 ampere) with the ignition switch in the Off position, and all non-ignition controlled circuits in proper working order. Up to twenty-five milliamperes are needed to enable the memory functions for the Powertrain Control Module (PCM), digital clock, electronically tuned radio, and other modules which may vary with the vehicle equipment. A vehicle that has not been operated for approximately twenty one days, may discharge the battery to an inadequate level. When a vehicle will not be used for twenty one days or more (stored), remove the IOD fuse from the Integrated Power Module (IPM). This will reduce battery discharging. Excessive IOD can be caused by: • Electrical items left on. • Faulty or improperly adjusted switches. • Faulty or shorted electronic modules and components. • An internally shorted generator. • Intermittent shorts in the wiring Optima thread here, type 96 describes all / any brand close to 80/800 such as the Varta E38 etc. Dont ever under any circumstances use one of those put your REG in here. Loads of info including cutting the battery tray walkthroughs here in this forum somewhere. Anyone with unexpectedly high off-draw should look for recent changes made to wiring, particularly new radio have been made to wiring leading to IOD issues and parasitic drain.

My Chrysler Grand Voyager (2001 - 2008) 2.8 CRD Limited 5d Auto is 5096mm in Length, but the 6 in the range vary slightly. The differing handbrick systems and drawings and specs will be in the official manuals here. The parking brake details and schema will be in the Body Manual.pdf.

- car in park- engine on- footbrake hard on- at least 3 or more pulls in quick succession on the handbrick whilst holding the 'pawl' in- should self adjust via the clockspring 'clockspring'. best of luck.

Wurth is just the name of an equipment manufacturer/rebadger, WOW has extended diags for BMW and other EURO vehicles. I've got (1) WOW (2) Delphi (3) autodata 2013 etc installed on an old Surface Pro 2 which was on DOT NET 1.1 on a WinXP tablet, the DOT NET1.1 needed updating to 3.5 in order to install all three because the all three [WOW/Delphi/autodata] use the same sentinel system. Just reinstate the original image and let it go through the painful 7 hours of XP updates and reboots - - it will update DOT net as part of that clean new systyem . Best of luck.

Delphi links Wurth WOW links Both together + trucks for £67 links

Carsoft all tools around the world. Scanners [£hundreds] and diagnostic scanners [£thousands] are different beasts.

Snap-on 's have been rubbish for decades. Almost nothing in the UK displays CRD's prior to the 08 facelift. One of the biggest problems with these EURObuilds are the cheepo imported Mexican harness installed in Canada and the failure of communication losses leading to error [u+P1 codes] codes. Particularly the VIN is the specific requirement for the dBase to display the U1 and U2 and P1 manufacturer codes. There's are two new[er] version of that redtop imikebh8 one where they piggy-backed an extra daughterboard with WOW and the newer again very recent one with the NEC chipset also with both WOW cars & trucks and Delphi for about an extra £10. Best to you.

SnooperDelphi

I don't think Delphi150e give's CRD engine / VIN before Gen V so from 2008 only.

You can clearly see the two IN/OUT coolant hoses in this pic, Hoat G05, is recommended. When you are done turn the heat full belt to open the matrix and open the water filler bottle let it heat up it will bleed any air and excess water out of the open filler cap. £10 and 10 minutes for the stat mod. You also need the air-damMOD and the batterybuttonMOD for the complete winterising and Best of luck.

Agreed aux [Webasto] heater hose leak ?

2013 link to LeedsMan inline stat

Forum Index

Linky

see here

Cars sold at a garage should have a HPI check done which will show if the vehicle has any markers against it. They are obliged by law to declare this when selling to the public

Expensive, but if it cures it forever its money that had to be spent. hanks for informing the group.

check first - no app or HPi required FREE

So the PCM [[Powertrain Control Modules (PCM)]] [regulates the cooling fan, air conditioning and speed control systems etc and changes the alternator charge rate by adjusting the alternator field] it also performs diagnostic functions such as on the PCM Valve relay : petrol.

By 6 hard yanks I mean hard very hard. There's is no adjustment just pulling the clutch, the footbrake keeps the tension on while the cables are realigned. The handbrick is an absolute pig to get right, one forum member did a 'blue peter' repair where he mounted an 8" scaffee pole over the end of the handbrake handle to get the required pull.

Mike no idea, anything I post refers to my GV year etc. Apart from the obvious handbrick test I always advocate the small parts are replaced, the adjustment for the clockspring is engine on stamp on footbrick and 6 hard yanks will re-tension the clutch. What year is yours ?

Voyager CRD IV gen wiring diagrams in that ver MikeBH ?

P & U are crucial they are U = CAN + VAN + DATA BUS etc similarly the P=CAM+FUEL+SEATS+MAF etc

IOD IOD Images