QinteQ

- handbrick.1. - handbrick.2.

- don't start the engine - REM the digital volt meter will initially read very low [glow plugs + interior lights] so wait 30 seconds after getting in the car - you are welcome daveonwheels

A whole £2 spent on this. 12.65 = 100% 12.45 = 075% 12.24 = 050% 12.06 = 025% 11.89 = 000% dead as a dodo Will tell you when [25%] you need to change / charge. Make sure you use the switch-able low output cigarette lighter socket on the RHS.

Would be a safe option providing you change it before it gets very low. The danger of lifestyle is that it gives out at that exact moment you are miles from home and the spare fully charges ep450. Best of luck to you.

7 stage whilst good and will include float + pulse / maintenance normally does not treat sulphated. Mind you yours might not be actually sulph[ed]. Never believe what you are told by anyone with the usual garbage in/out 100a drop tester. A proper one such as a BA7 that auto rages flooded AGM flat plat Spirals and gel's etc is a reliable read of CCA's at any point in time.

I drive a WAV. I like the big bank bank that is the F18 type generally, the optima redtops work well even the powerline budget brand work well, but at the end of the day lifestyle will kill even a top end high recharge efficiency deep cycle big bank Odyssey @ £270. I've got a Boost for when I'm caught out.Every day is F18. Spare is an S5 010 and is permanently on 100% charged for up to 9 months of the year. Overkill ? - yeh probably.

The F18 is 55mm longer, you will need to MOD the battery tray and maybe one long-side battery hold down lip. Redtops will fit and do work. The EP 450 can't be jiggered - get it de-sloughed on a 9 stage charger. - lifestyle - frequent use - winter starts - duration [50 miles every other day] of recharge from the alternator - no intervention needed- lifestyle - infrequent use - semi-permanent advanced microprocessor controlled battery charger, the excellent MP7428 9 stage @ about £30 is an alternative to the double the price CTEK 5.0- the buttonMOD works well, is safe and will give a lot more aH in a short charge time window- 4 years ago Best of luck.

2100kRPM gives me 62MPH. .1. @ a steady 40+MPH on a 70MPH flat road you should be in 4th - floor it - should drop 2/3 pegs and you do a schumacher. .2 @ a steady 70+MPH on a 70MPH flat road in 'cruise control' - cancel cruise and drop speed to 31MPH - re-enable your pre-set cruise - and you do a schumacher. - "caveat emptor" - what happens ?

see here

Good enough Andy lad !

Do you want me to take my scanner to Jimbo's tomorrow Andy ?

Trade distributor, I used their dBase just to find the correct [Denso 05072176AA] part Hella. Make sure you get your correct Mk?? part for your model. Best of luck.

codes here

Glow plus light goes out in seconds but its active for a full 10 seconds + - use all of them. The LHS glow plug as you stand at the radiator is a pig to change and is usually never not tackled - problem. Third relay from the LHS as you stand at the radiator.

F18, heckish goodly kit.

Clogged=starvation Dirty but not completely blocked=bad starting Dirty but not completely blocked=hesitation and hunting Dirty but not completely blocked=HP side manages at speed but not at low speed Dirty but not completely blocked=engine dies per starvation Dirty but not completely blocked=engine rough idling [Algae in fuel tank] Cost £10-£15 delivered, housing ex ebay SH about £30 delivered. An annual/bi-annual disposable along with service stops it ever happening.

The microswitch on my X431 is goosed [have top get my solder station and USB microscope out this time] so I've has do get my MaxiDAS Pro back from AMERICANJohn in the Pool. Week tomorrow the7th Feb if you want M8.

Yes bignev - for a period. The computer counts the incidence of the code NOT happening and removes it from short-term memory [and display], it does however remain in long-term until its cleared with a diagnostic scanner. For example code 12 is thrown if the system voltage drops too far beyond the normal range, this could just be that the battery has been disconnected to charge the battery it will be wiped from short-term in about 15-20 starts.In this case code 13

My fault the proper way to express it is 33K [33,000] Ohm Metal Film Resistor @ 0.5W. NOTE : Not the 1/4W in your thumb.

The buttonMOD needs 1/2 or even 1W simple carbon film type resistor @ 33 your pic shows 1/4 W not 1/2 or 1 watt my friend.

The buttonMOD needs 1/2 or even 1W simple carbon film type resistor @ 33. What the MAF needs I've no idea what should be in it, doesn't it come populated - anyone here know the value ?

Is the radio an original to the car build ?

Its missing a replaceable resistor get a UK one to be safe or just put a 20p resistor in. Best of luck.

HiYa Gordy, even if the interior lights were all left on by accident or even deliberately they should ALL be switched off [sleep mode] by the BCM software about 15 minutes after locking the vehicle up. With me it is / was / continues to be (self inflicted) 'lifestyle' x2 15 minute trips in the summer will replace the starting draw value but will go nowhere close to replacing the starting draw value in the winter. I see the MOD as a purse / bank ... you are deffo going to run out of banked-starts ... when it will happen depends on how big and how full the bank is in the 1st place. frogland. Lots of people have done the batteryMOD, all 100% effective, zero reports of any problems, here's my original post on the subject :