QinteQ

Under drivers seat M8

Look for batteryMOD on this forum it works is easy many have done it my friend. Best of luck.

1. Inspect tyre(s) 2. Anti roll bar link/end(s) Bar hardly ever, usual is bushings. 3. CV

See: http://oskin.ru/pub/chrysler-dodge/manuals/Service%20Manuals/2005_RG_Town&Country_Caravan_Voyager_Diesel_Versions_Include/ Includes 2.5+2.8crd's, the mk4 covers up to 07. You will see the diesel.pdf file. Best of luck.

Oh ok nev. Yeh I did get crossed wires. Additionally i understood your pump will be 12v rear, not non electric front even if you're no longer running LPG. Still we got there in the end. Take care now!

Most should be nowt.

18 months is most. Must be a n other fault Nev.

Usually just pinhole in the diaphragm nev, find a Lucas/Delphi parts kit my M8 and DIY ✔️

This is the uni Lucas fitted to my 05 nev https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Diesel-Primer-Pump-Lucas-Type-/192779554591

L0 non return valve on a Lucas" I don't know bignev, but I'm sure the answer is no. It's either pressed tight or not. I've come across three GV's though where the screw on water trap rattled loose and caused the LP to fail because it wasn't pressed up.

I have the £1800 full garage liscenced old version of its original, now very old but an excellent diagnostic. In your case RichardM. You already know your problem and solution. The LP "Lucas" primer shouldn't need one let alone 6 compressions. Fuel filter is compromised: - air in displacement - water in displacement (my favourite) - loose rattling drain tap - 2 '0' rings in filter not 1 - others ! Best of luck.

His/her setting for rear view, seat position, wing mirror settings. So: 1 you, set stuff to your liking then "S" for save.

You have an Low Pressure part and the High Pressure part, the HP is the massive £2k injector pump that will pull all the way from the tank. The low pressure bit relies on having just enough in the filter to stock up to start. Any part of the LP that is weak enough to allow air in will displace diesel and allow leakback to the tank return. how do you "prime" it?

Ditto mucker, boys company Pirbright 62, Then usual Knightsbridge, Chelsea, Windsor, then Kenya, Yemen and others before demob. You could just take the black plaggie cover off engine block and see the spade connection with a torch. If it's connected it's sometimes just not 'making' a good enough connect. If you're getting a man in I suggest he spanners bolts and nips spade after cleaning etc, he'll know the full monty. Or any handy willing neighbour could do it. Best of luck.

Absolute pig to get good, UK test efficient is all that's needed. Two trick are: .1. early issues with understanding 'top.hat brakes' years ago including PIC of small parts: https://www.chryslerforum.com/forum/chrysler-voyager-town-country-21/my-struggles-gv-handbrake-mot-22210/page2/ .2. a good YUK is mentioned this means engine running, level ground, brake fluid topped up, STAMP hard on foot bake and keep pressure on, then pull up hard 6 times to balance Y cable + clockspring assembly. If that's no good you need small parts/lotsa time/copperslip grease. Then YUK process again. Best of luck.

Standstill window open lights or inside garage you will, it exhausts driver's door @ sill level. Any other suggests flexi pipe issue. Standard stuff but never bought a length. Yanks use both 5kW thermo and water top, try rockauto uk or any UK supplier of Flexi.

Eliminate the obvious. It has fuel, LP compression to filter/HP pump and full CCA crank. What's missing? SMIM SKREEM permission!. It will have the SKIM code in the BCM the SKREEM is only voltage, voltage is the tiny IGN to IPM to "trigger spade" on the top of the starter motor. A DVOM will prove it in a second.

I'll have a think ginger. SKIM/SKREEM and 'trigger wire' prime suspects, secondary would be LP fuel supply. 1/4 on temp design normal, I prefer 1/2 for winteriZing/quicker warm up/reduced diesel costs. I also have Webasto secondary water heater assist. Have you knocked/moved/touched the spade wire on top of the starter motor? That's'triggered' by the IGN when you turn the key - the starter will spin like a banshee but 'trigger' (control wire) allows or denies combustion. Very skinny arms an torch or thin bamboo garden cane with a notch cut in it to move wire on spade!

Moving to Yatton next week, need GV till I chuck this house in. Not giving this one up till Xmas earliest. Wasn't thinking of selling you GV..... It's a damn fine very good car - just long in years like me Andy. Sale price was decided last Xmas as £1 English ♿

Chrysler's pulse width modulated design signal alternators are known because of their tendancy to spike because the PCM continually swtches between full whack and total off Gordy. Hence my reason for the "batteryMOD"

10 engineers 10 different opinions. Generally diagnostics is a menu.from easy DIY cheap to complex professional expensive. What I wrote to Andy said that 5 minutes of jumper leads @ alternator 180ah is 900aH into your 50aH battery. More than enough to start your GV. Once started, keep it running, you should go on a long ride to completely recharge your battery. The above assumes you have LP (low pressure) fuel supply. Best of luck. Want to know more ask.

.1. Andy, with Gingers problems you could .. .. become a northerner angel. a simple whack with jumpers on donor car's alternators 1500RPM output for 5 minutes would certainly bank enough aH to spin him up. He MUST however invest an immediate vLong run to replace used aH/CCA. .2. On a different subject I'm due an MOT, still uber low mileage but intend handing in my licence after Xmas. I can sell or just meet you @ Jimmy's and give it away to you. it is now old but runs better than when I bought it. tell me what you think,, ,, ,, 'R'

- "turned over normally but wouldn't start" Sounds like (1) your battery needs a full charge or (2) jump leads from your mechanics car running on his 160amp alternator for boost for a full 5 minutesl (or 3) another type of issue. If your mechanic and yourself do manage to get it going you're going to have to not switch off and go for an immediate 50 mile run at 50MPH to recharge your tiny 50aH redtop, don't switch off till you're back in safe area. Your car radio is coded to the BCM so you can not lose your radio code.

I have recommended red top's for those who can't won't fit an 800CCA/80 fit a tiny GV battery tray. Of course even the RTC 4.2 which is 815CCA can an will go flat or reduce to the point where your car registers a "no start" condition to the software. Fortunately this can be tested by just rebooting the computers and allowing the software to prove its connection to each component. I'm using my telephone, I'll write here the sequence for rebooting the computers tomorrow. You have an RG 2.8 on an 05EURO. NOTE: swinging needles is a classic indicator of "low battery condition" errors!

manuals: http://oskin.ru/pub/chrysler-dodge/manuals/Service%20Manuals/2005_RS_Caravan_Voyager/ take you pick: https://www.chryslerforum.com/forum/chrysler-voyager-town-country-21/uk-grand-voyager-2001-repair-manual-17113/page6/#post97104