QinteQ

Under drivers seat M8

Look for batteryMOD on this forum it works is easy many have done it my friend. Best of luck.

1. Inspect tyre(s) 2. Anti roll bar link/end(s) Bar hardly ever, usual is bushings. 3. CV

See: http://oskin.ru/pub/chrysler-dodge/manuals/Service%20Manuals/2005_RG_Town&Country_Caravan_Voyager_Diesel_Versions_Include/ Includes 2.5+2.8crd's, the mk4 covers up to 07. You will see the diesel.pdf file. Best of luck.

Oh ok nev. Yeh I did get crossed wires. Additionally i understood your pump will be 12v rear, not non electric front even if you're no longer running LPG. Still we got there in the end. Take care now!

Most should be nowt.

18 months is most. Must be a n other fault Nev.

Usually just pinhole in the diaphragm nev, find a Lucas/Delphi parts kit my M8 and DIY ✔️

This is the uni Lucas fitted to my 05 nev https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Diesel-Primer-Pump-Lucas-Type-/192779554591

L0 non return valve on a Lucas" I don't know bignev, but I'm sure the answer is no. It's either pressed tight or not. I've come across three GV's though where the screw on water trap rattled loose and caused the LP to fail because it wasn't pressed up.

I have the £1800 full garage liscenced old version of its original, now very old but an excellent diagnostic. In your case RichardM. You already know your problem and solution. The LP "Lucas" primer shouldn't need one let alone 6 compressions. Fuel filter is compromised: - air in displacement - water in displacement (my favourite) - loose rattling drain tap - 2 '0' rings in filter not 1 - others ! Best of luck.

His/her setting for rear view, seat position, wing mirror settings. So: 1 you, set stuff to your liking then "S" for save.

You have an Low Pressure part and the High Pressure part, the HP is the massive £2k injector pump that will pull all the way from the tank. The low pressure bit relies on having just enough in the filter to stock up to start. Any part of the LP that is weak enough to allow air in will displace diesel and allow leakback to the tank return. how do you "prime" it?

Ditto mucker, boys company Pirbright 62, Then usual Knightsbridge, Chelsea, Windsor, then Kenya, Yemen and others before demob. You could just take the black plaggie cover off engine block and see the spade connection with a torch. If it's connected it's sometimes just not 'making' a good enough connect. If you're getting a man in I suggest he spanners bolts and nips spade after cleaning etc, he'll know the full monty. Or any handy willing neighbour could do it. Best of luck.

Absolute pig to get good, UK test efficient is all that's needed. Two trick are: .1. early issues with understanding 'top.hat brakes' years ago including PIC of small parts: https://www.chryslerforum.com/forum/chrysler-voyager-town-country-21/my-struggles-gv-handbrake-mot-22210/page2/ .2. a good YUK is mentioned this means engine running, level ground, brake fluid topped up, STAMP hard on foot bake and keep pressure on, then pull up hard 6 times to balance Y cable + clockspring assembly. If that's no good you need small parts/lotsa time/copperslip grease. Then YUK process again. Best of luck.