jasonleah1

I kind of understand now. There are 2 charge points in the front of the car and a few more in the rear and boot I think. I have the charger and voltage reader on order. I do think though like a few people have already said because I just use the car for school run and on cold mornings with everything that can be on switched on then the little time the car is in use the battery is never going to fully recoup. On a plus point though your air dam mod seems to more than half the engine warm up time for the car which is great. Just wait for the mpg increase now and I'll be happy

I will stop reading my voltage lol. I have ordered the ring intelligent charger, but can not find the voltage display you also showed me, Where would I find one of these?? got some 22k resistors on order too, As soon as I get everything I need will post back with my findings so you can fathom them out for me lol. I really appreciate the help you are giving me too as it was starting to met on my nerves a little, We will get there in the end!

Hi, Thanks for the info, The car is used probably twice a day to do school run, school is about 3 miles each way at most, also used for the odd meeting for our foster children similar distance, The problem is elec doors being used, that damn heater which never seems to be off, and obv in the winter months lights wipers etc. My solar panel probably isn't up to the job of anything either as it is only a 12v 2.4w cheap jobbie. I have read the above links too, still cant get my head around the charging voltages though lol. I have done your air dam mod this afternoon and I have the Renault thermostat on order from local motor factors just in case I have to do the thermostat mod too. On a quick side note, I took the car on the M5 very late last night as I couldn't sleep and did about 100 miles only had radio on, I got back and tested the voltage in the battery engine off, it steadied out at 12.75v resting. I took out the IOD fuse locked all doors and went to bed. this morning at 10am I tested the battery again and it hadn't lost a single .1 of a volt still showing 12.75, took the car for a half hour or so drive and it was charging at 14.15 again from starting the car but when I got home and the car was warm the voltage was 13.95. I know I have a big hang up of these numbers but I want the car to charge at 14+v all of the time as it still seems to be dropping voltage like it should without the battery mod?? Your post said you were getting 14+ all the time or is it because I'm using a 33k resistor and not a 22k?? Sorry to be a pain.

Hi cheers, The battery on the car now is a Bosch 096r with 74Ah and 680cca If this means anything to you, The battery that came off is a Numark 70Ah 640cca, that has been in my shed for over a day and is still holding 12.5. I have just been out to test my battery and it has not got down to 12.05v from about tea time when it had 12.3v I tested it using a normal handheld sinometer M-830B. The car is now charging at 14.35v. I'm sure there is a drain on the battery so how do I go about and find it?? I will remove battery tomorrow and have another go at the resistor mod but I think the drain on the car is far more than it should be even with the 16 minute sleep command on it.. I'm also using a maplin solar charger / maintainer when the car is not in use

Did the mod this morning, Cut brown wire from sensor under battery stripped both sides and put these into both ends of connector block, fitted resistor into connector block the same way and plugged back in. Drove car and tested while running and was returning 14.15v after an hours drive on a brand new battery tested again and was only giving 13.6v loaded and unloaded. Left car until about 10 mins ago and battery was showing 12.4v , when I turned it off this morning it was showing 12.6 surely it couldn't have lost .2 v in just a few hours of leaving it or do I have a problem. I don't know if the charging voltage is correct but it just doesn't seem enough. The old battery on the car used to show 12.1v while on the car but I took it off and replaced with a Bosch S4. Tested old battery a few hours later and it was showing 12.5v?? either my tester is duff or I'm loosing power as soon as I connect my battery to the car.

Exactly how do you do the mod?? I tried and my car still only charges at 13.6 or so volts?? I must have not done it right, Do you just fit a resistor inline and be done with it??

Update...... Friday afternoon my beloved Grand voyager was written off after suffering quite a shunt . Children and foster children all fine and the car did us proud and protected us... Going to look at a 2013 Grand voyager Stow and Go on Monday.. So will be staying with you guys for some time to come......

I don't know weather this was just a huge coincidence or weather it was the actual problem.... Long story short Alternator packed up and I replaced this, In doing so I also replaced the battery, I took the car to my local garage who cleared all the faults from the ecu, Still the same for a few days and then all of a sudden just started to work perfectly like it did when we first got the car. Thanks for all the info and possible problems it could be guys...

Well I have now cured the problem, Or at least you could say that. Hi, Yes I have checked all of the wiring and traced it all back it is all fine..

Tried every kind of reset I can do. Took car to specialist but nothing shows up on the Diagnostic. I did key dance again earlier because there must be something stored. what I got was P1130, P1685 & P0154. As soon as I start the car all lights light up, if I engage either R D 3 or L they light up on their own. P an N throw up every selector light. The car drives super smooth and all gears work when in D. L works on its own like it should, but when I select 3 just L lights up or it will just flash between 3 & L. It will only normally stay in one gear unless I drive it harder and it will change on its own. No engine management lights come on at all. I have ordered another gearbox Ecu from a well known Chrysler breakers, If this doesn't sort it I am going to take my stihl saw to it and chop it up and buy myself a transporter like I should have in the first place. Can not believe just a battery dying would cause this much grief, either that or it was one hell of a coincidence. Shame really because the car is or was fantastic....

Nothing yet. I had to cancel my appointment with the garage due to work it is going back this weekend to ty to be fathomed out?? How does one perform a hard reset?? or can it only be done at a main dealers??

Hi the numbers do not match the part number for mine, I was talking to someone today though and they assured me that it has to be the same type, diesel for diesel etc??but no idea. The car is booked into a gearbox specialist on Thursday, as I've also been informed I have to have the new solenoid and fluid change reset on the ecu for it to work properly, There is no charge for this as it is a friend of a friend so not all that bad...

No I haven't checked it yet as I can not find a matching ecu for my car...

Hi, Yes this would be perfect just to give it a go, I was told by a reputable Chrysler breaker that only the exact version for my car would work?? so weren't sure this is why I haven't yet changed the TCM as I can not find one with matching part numbers!! If you PM me we can sort some details out and a method of payment and we can get it done... I'd like to fix it as it is perfect for what we need... and nothing else even coms close to the space this has.. Temp issue is just something I thought of as it seems to be worse if the car hasn't been used... However the car hardly ever plays up when the wife uses the car....

Hi, Does anyone have the answer to my issue. I have a 4th gen grand voyager with a gearbox issue, up until a few weeks ago the car drove spot on until alternator belt snapped, I tried to nurse the car home but all manner of lights started to illuminate including gearbox jumping in and out of gear?? Pulled over and called AA, towed home as didn't have a belt, fast forward... New belt fitted and battery fully charged I drove the car, However there is now a problem... All the selection boxes for the gears are illuminated apart from P, D. the car will also jump straight to L when I first start off in the morning, But after it is warm drives spot on again most of the time... I have dropped the pan and renewed fluid and filter, Replaced both input and output sensors and changed solenoid pack and new gasket but the car still wont sort itself.. is there anything else I should or can try?? Any ideas would be appreciated.. Cheers