RichardM

This isn't an answer I'm afraid but a request to identify your vehicle. model and year, it will help members answer the question more accurately. I did a quick search in the manuals for automatic transmission removal & found this for the 40/41TE but as far as I am aware the quick learn doesn't require the DRBiii just run the car for a couple of miles (imcluding up & down hills (difficult if you live in Lincolnshire! NOTE: If the Transmission Control Module or Torque Converter has been replaced, or if the Transmission has been repaired or replaced, it is necessary to perform the DRBIIIt Quick Learn Procedure and reset the (Pinion Factor(.

Best of luck. It would be great if you let us all know the outcome!

For the 'never worked' part of the query :- Have you checked via the 'key dance' (see previous posts if you do not know how to do this), if your fob is communicating with the vehicle ? An error code (P1680 or P1685) would indicate a possible incompatibility between the fob and the SKIM. It seems possible, due to the fact that the fob has never worked that; 1 the SKIM / SKREEN system needs reprogramming; 2 the fob is faulty 3 the fob does not belong to the vehicle. for the recent 'escalation' it may well be worth doing a reboot (disconnect the battery by removing the earth strap, for at least 10 minutes) reconnect with fingers crossed. Unfortunately detailed diagnostics on these beasts or reprogramming anything appears to require a DRB111 diagnostic tool that is as rare as hen's teeth, FYI section 3.2.4 - SENTRY KEY REMOTE ENTRY of the RG Diesel Powertrain w/s manual makes a good substitute for counting sheep. Sorry can not be of more help (this is one of the few problems I haven't come across yet).

Following on from Perry's question on headlamps I hope 1] this info is correct & 2] it proves helpful.... Whilst browsing the net came across this information for the GV. Dipped Beam (Headlight) H7 (499) Full/High Beam (Headlight Flasher) H9 (709) Front Fog Lamp H3 (453) Side/Parking Lamp W5W (501) If anyone is aware of errors please update. Regards Richard.

From the infamous net ; Please note that since January 2021, the MOT Inspection manual has been updated to include LED bulbs. Section 4.1.4 now states the following: “Existing halogen headlamp units should not be converted to be used with high intensity discharge (HID) or light emitting diode (LED) bulbs. If such a conversion has been done, you must fail the headlamp.” This is a brand new update that seems to only focus on headlights. I assume this is reliant on the diligence of the MOT station in question..... must admit that I am sorely tempted to shove something brighter in mine or upgrade the auxiliary driving lights.

I'm in the wrong part of the country to know of any C specialists, experts etc. Might I suggest you detail your problem on the forum, perhaps someone here can help to point you in the direction of a solution... Engines are engines and gearboxes are gearboxes regardless of the make... Electronics are another matter entirely.

Sorry for the delay in replying but missed this one.. The 2.8 (on mine) has both sensors, the camshaft sensor is nice and accessible on the top of the cylinder head. The crankshaft sensor is underneath the engine, again towards the rear and requires the crossmember dropping. Not a big job if you can jack the car high enough.

The battery isolator solution is a last resort; I am thinking of wiring a switch (just behind the grill) in series with the IOD fuse so I can 'pull' the fuse when leaving for any period of time - but - will have to check if the alarm detonates again if I pull the fuse; don't have the inclination at the moment but will try it out 2022ish, in the meantime will just keep the battery charger on overnight. Have a great new year (or at least a normal [old fashioned] one)....

Following on from this latest event (today 24th Dec), I got home and as the battery has of late decided to drain even faster than usual, and as I don't intend using the old girl for a couple of days , I decided to remove the IOD fuse... duh as soon as I removed it the alarm went off (not at mega dB as the alarm battery isn't very well but loud enough for me to panic and replace the IOD fuse. Big mistake.. Alarm now loud enough to be mistaken for an air raid siren in Moscow. So tried locking (alarm alarm alarm) then unlocking (alarm alarm alarm)... Shove key in ignition switch start up and shove car into reverse (alarm alarm alarm) with the intent on going for a four mile trip (which usually silences the blxxdy thing. Got ten yards and the alarm stopped, and more interestingly the little red, I'm watching you, LED just in front of the tacho went out (as far as I'm aware that little red light has flashed continuously for the past two years, regardless of whether the vehicle was locked, unlocked, parked or being driven. ? ? ? So, left her parked up, not locked and will go out tomorrow or the day after and slam her on the charger.. Does anyone, please, have any ideas (constructive ones if possible !) Happy xMas one and all, lets hope next year proves more conducive to a normal life!

I believe the horn lives behind the n/s headlamp assembly and you are right it is a separate unit (VSS). For the time being the alarm is behaving itself and it's too friggin cold to start investigating at present. As for auto electricians they believe Grand Voyagers are the Devil's work and would prefer to stick their hands in pre heated frying pan and I can understand why. (Page 1257 of the RG-Body.pdf manual shows the location of the alarm horn)

2007 Grand Voyager 2.8CRD (2006 model ) - RG Twice now the alarm has 'detonated' after unlocking the car. Relocking does not reset it. Fortunately the immobiliser does not initialise, therefore I was able to drive it with the alarm sounding and the flashers going. After around 3 miles the alarm just switches off. After the first time I changed the fob battery and assumed that was the cause but today, three days later it just went off again. This is a U.K .vehicle. and has the Thatcham alarm system fitted Any ideas please ?

Thanks for the reply As the MOT is due hence having to get it into the shop I think I'll replace the pressure regulator, crank sensor, camshaft sensor and pressure regulator at the same time. If that doesn't cure it then a small fire might resolve all problems...... Aaagh..

1. I am no expert on these auto boxes (or anything else on these over computerised beasts, the combination of electronic and mechanical 'challenges' complicate things but having searched and read many problems concerning the transmission I would suggest the following approach. Being as it gets worse when warm / hot I would suspect an oil change might resolve the problem. Change the fluid and filter as you state. Do not add any 3rd party product to the oil initially, see how it responds to the new oil first. You must use ATF4. Whilst draining the old fluid check with your fingers for 'grit', if the fluid is smooth then it's a good but not conclusive evidence of a sound box. As far as I understand it the computer needs to relearn it's cycling after an oil change - didn't seem so when I did mine but have read that a number of longish runs are required including kick downs, up-hill climbs etc. to optimise the gear change 'point'. Also this gives the box's valves to be 'washed' with the new fluid and may clear any partial blockages caused by old contaminates. I wish you the best of luck & hope it's nothing more than ancient oil causing the problem. Please update the thread with any results to help everyone else. Richard

Just an update on that £80.00 alternator I bought from ebay. It's great. Waited till now 'cause I wanted to make sure it lasted more than a couple of days. It works great, charges at 14.2 when the battery's down at 12.2 volts before starting ( I do leave her for a few days sometimes), then goes down as the battery charges. (I do not have the temp mod). The advert says 160Amp which concerned me originally but it certainly does the job and doesn't appear to be overcharging the battery (Optima Redtop [AGM]). Just an adjunct on the battery. When I bought the car the battery wasn't charging properly so bought a new (as above) battery. With the poor starting also bought one of these magic chargers that repairs duff batteries. Plugged it into the old battery and after a couple of days and a couple of repair mode attempts Voila! battery was back up to charge and holding charge. -> It now sits in the old girl with the new one powering the bought for spares one until I get around to changing them back.

Assuming there are no knocks on running this is probably an electrical fault.Check for shorts or o/c. There's an awful lot of cables that go across the head, including the accelerator sensor cable. Suggest check if any cables have been caught during the strip, rebuild. I had an intermittent short on this particular cable and it caused all PNDR123 to light up. A short on cable can cause strange things to happen on this vehicle& prove a bugger to track down.

Thanks or the reply Andy, the Pressure Relief Valve was changed some months ago before finding the original cold or warm no go was caused by the primer pump on top of the fuel filter housing had a split diaphragm. Any idea how accessible the crank and speed sensors are AND.. why does it kick off straight away when wafted with some Quick-Start ? dur...............

Hello again folks, same old topic but maybe a clue helps... Go for a drive for a couple of miles. Stop, switch off have a cup of coffee, or leave her for a couple of hours, doesn't matter she starts, not immediately requires a second or two to fire but away she goes. Drive long enough, for the engine to warm up (eight miles or so) park up and bingo Quick start required to wake her up. Goes like the clappers warm or cold, I am fairly sure it's not machanical, lets face it the old girl is 60% computer hardware, 20% software, 10% cable and 7% mechanical (have excluded the carpets). I have bought another GV (with gear change problems as a donor (2006) with the intention of switching out sensors one by one, does anyone have any ideas before I start the swap overs or which sensors, solenoids I should start with ? The donor has an electric rear door so was thinking of swapping this but it's a different colour (green) and has privacy glass so have filed away as a to do (maybe). It also has a multi cd player as well as the standard cd player (same radio and cd as mine) so another question, can I just fit the multi cd to mine or will the ECU or whatever throw a wobbler ? Also, removed the fuse box from the donor and there is a relay behind it (against the flitch), cables appear to be LG/RD TN/LG LG/BL DG/BL my colour sense on old cables isn't the best but have searched both LG and DG combos; have searched the manual and these colours doesn't make sense (mind you there is a lot in the manual that doesn't make sense....) I am inclined to pull the fuse box on the old girl and see what's hidden behind that one! suggestions greatly appreciated. Richard

We seem to have moved away from alternators (problem solved with £80 ish alternator) and onto what appears to be the major problem with the GVs or this 2.8 CRD engine in particular i.e. fuel related issues. I have had problems ever since buying the old girl (Dec 2019), I think I am going to bite the bullet and get a new pump, problem is I am not 100% convinced it is the pump, if it was I would expect a more consistent fault ? I think I'll open a new (repeat) thread on this issue.

Possibly but have not been able to find one yet (Old Leake is located 20 miles from nowhere), Boston is closer but that really doesn't count. I know (painfully) that it's a lot of money but every time you buy a 2nd hand vehicle you might as well put a bet on the old grey nag in the 2:30 at Epson. Funny thing is went out this morning, twisted the key and up she fired.... Random(ish) faults are the worst kind...even if you know the source error (P1130) I am seriously leaning towards a new injector pump or buying quick start wholesale.

Alternator arrived this morning, phoned my friendly garage and they popped int in this afternoon ! That problem solved, charging at 13,5 volts all sound on the electrical side... only problem is on kick down during the journey home (nine miles) the engine died and refused to start until bribed with Quickstart juice... got home switched off and tried again, no start .. this love hate relationship is turning into a hate hate relationship... have been reliably informed the HP fuel pump is probably the culprit but at circa £1000.00 worried that it may not solve the problem & a grand down. .. ????

Well, thanks for the info. Glad to hear everything's tickity-boo with yours. I have ordered the £80.00 Chinese thingamy, the part number they quote is correct, just have to wait until Friday to see if it fits! I didn't want to buy second hand, mainly because of the mechanical clutch and potential failure .. hopefully a new (Chinese) one will be better but we will see. By the way do you know how to release the tension on the belt to get the alternator off ??? Cheers Richard

Just an addendum to the above; P0620 - CRV specific P0620 Generator Field Control MALF Open CircuitGenerator Field Control MALF Short CircuitGenerator Field Control MALF BatteryVoltage Too HighGenerator Field Control MALF BatteryVoltage Too LowGenerator Field Control MALF Charging Volts Too LowGenerator Field Control MALF Unstable CurrentGenerator Field Control MALF Battery Voltage deviation Too HighGenerator Field Control MALF Battery Voltage deviation Too Low so could be something or due to battery dying !

Right, after a (very) perfunctory check on the old girl after charging the battery (12.44 volts), started her and measured the volts again (12,1); slapped a current meter across the alternator o/p - sweet bugger all. Also noted a whine from the alternator that I don't think was there last time I opened the bonnet. Based on this wealth of information I am going to get a new alternator (£80++ from ebay) - don't know how good these are but it's as cheap as a couple of hours at the garage! I have checked the error codes (key dance) and got the following :- P0620 - Generator control malfunction .. ha P1651 - MIL / Diagnostic lamp ???? 0204 injector cct #4 0203 injector cct #3 .. pretty sure 0204 etc due to the engine dying with no voltage and are irrelevant, ditto for 1651 ~ anyway until I get the major problem sorted I'ii assume they are all generated by the cpu having a nervous breakdown. Please let us know how you get on.

I don't know whether this is helpful or leading you up the garden path; Firstly my old bus is a 2007 Diesel GV. Today whilst picking up some items from the local electrical wholesaler the GV wouldn't start - not unusual so gave her a burst of Quickstart and brum brum but after a couple of miles I noticed the voltage reading (have a cheap & very useful voltmeter plugged into the cig. socket) was 11.3 (this is whilst driving whereas it's normally around the 12.9 to 13.3 ish; as I continued the voltage dropped quicker than the fuel gauge down to around 11.1 and then the gearbox decided to go into limp mode i.e. it wouldn't change up. After a couple of miles dash lights started lighting up at random, then the speedo died shortly after followed by the tacho, shortly after and 800 yards from home the engine followed suit - amazing how heavy the steering is without the servo helping out. I have never had an electrical problem with the car before (lots of starting issues)... Don't know what's wrong yet will get the fluke out tomorrow and investigate but to summarise low voltage does appear to restrict your choice of gears to 1.

Is there anyone out there with the part number for the high pressure pump for the 2007 2.8 CRD engine? I am hoping the Jeep Cherokee's (Same engine) will fit, the part number for this is 0445010084, but can find no parts manual for the diesel GV.