RichardM

Oh I don't know about that, at least if I say "got to look at the car" it gets me out of mowing the lawn or cutting the hedge (and sometimes get an extra cuppa as well!)

Attached layout of fuses (as per mine) ..but the fuse labelled Transmission does bugger all.... Apparently there is another fuse under the power distribution module adjacent to the flitch.. was searching for it some time ago but other things came up (don't you love the Yanks..?)

Well the hubs arrived after 2 days (blxxdy heavy) and checked them for shoulders and yup they have them. Arranged with Judds (friendly garage) to fit them today and apart from a few curses about everything being seized (the n/s had to be ground through to release it) job done and dusted. Driving the old girl back home was a revelation, so quiet ... I haven't done any mileage yet but the hubs certainly look the part, fit as per originals and were less than £85.00 for the pair. (Ebay GSF). GSF's item number for these hubs is 303770358853.When you order they ask you to supply your VIN and they then confirm suitability, as I said no mileage on them yet but so far an excellent buy.

Thought I'd drop this in from the manual... IGNITION-OFF DRAW TEST The term Ignition-Off Draw (IOD) identifies a normal condition where power is being drained from the battery with the ignition switch in the Off position. A normal vehicle electrical system will draw from fifteen to twenty-five milliamperes (0.015 to 0.025 ampere) with the ignition switch in the Off position, and all non-ignition controlled circuits in proper working order. Up to twenty-five milliamperes are needed to enable the memory functions for the Powertrain Control Module (PCM), digital clock, electronically tuned radio, and other modules which may vary with the vehicle equipment. A vehicle that has not been operated for approximately twenty-one days, may discharge the battery to an inadequate level. When a vehicle will not be used for twenty-one days or more (stored), remove the IOD fuse from the Integrated Power Module (IPM). This will reduce battery discharging. Excessive IOD can be caused by: ² Electrical items left on. ² Faulty or improperly adjusted switches. ² Faulty or shorted electronic modules and components. ² An internally shorted generator. ² Intermittent shorts in the wiring. If the IOD is over twenty-five milliamperes, the problem must be found and corrected before replacing a battery. In most cases, the battery can be charged and returned to service after the excessive IOD condition has been corrected. (1) Verify that all electrical accessories are off. Turn off all lamps, remove the ignition key, and close all doors. If the vehicle is equipped with an illuminated entry system or an electronically tuned radio, allow the electronic timer function of these systems to automatically shut off (time out). This may take up to twenty minutes. (2) Disconnect the battery negative cable. (3) Set an electronic digital multi-meter to its highest amperage scale. Connect the multi-meter between the disconnected battery negative cable terminal clamp and the battery negative terminal post. Make sure that the doors remain closed so that the illuminated entry system is not activated. The multimeter amperage reading may remain high for up to three minutes, or may not give any reading at all while set in the highest amperage scale, depending upon the electrical equipment in the vehicle. The multi-meter leads must be securely clamped to the battery negative cable terminal clamp and the battery negative terminal post. If continuity between the battery negative terminal post and the negative cable terminal clamp is lost during any part of the IOD test, the electronic timer function will be activated and all of the tests will have to be repeated. (4) After about three minutes, the high-amperage IOD reading on the multi-meter should become very low or non existent, depending upon the electrical equipment in the vehicle. If the amperage reading remains high, remove and replace each fuse or circuit breaker in the Integrated Power Module (IPM), one at a time until the amperage reading becomes very low, or non existent. Refer to the appropriate wiring information for complete Integrated Power Module fuse, circuit breaker, and circuit identification. This will isolate each circuit and identify the circuit that is the source of the high-amperage IOD. If the amperage reading remains high after removing and replacing each fuse and circuit breaker, disconnect the wire harness from the generator. If the amperage reading now becomes very low or non existent, (Refer to 8 - ELECTRICAL/CHARGING - DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING) for the proper charging system diagnosis and testing procedures. After the high-amperage IOD has been corrected, switch the multi-meter to progressively lower amperage scales and, if necessary, repeat the fuse and circuit breaker remove-and-replace process to identify and correct all sources of excessive IOD. It is now safe to select the lowest milliampere scale of the multi-meter to check the low amperage IOD. CAUTION: Do not open any doors, or turn on any electrical accessories with the lowest milliampere scale selected, or the multi-meter may be damaged. (5) Allow twenty minutes for the IOD to stabilize and observe the multi-meter reading. The low-amperage IOD should not exceed twenty-five milliamperes (0.025 ampere). If the current draw exceeds twenty five milliamperes, isolate each circuit using the fuse and circuit breaker remove-and-replace process in Step 4. The multi-meter reading will drop to within the acceptable limit when the source of the excessive current draw is disconnected. Repair this circuit as required;

Redtop batteries (AGM) tend to be 810 /60Ah - but your battery should cope though not ideal, but if you have left her idle for a couple of days you may have encountered the dreaded parasitic drain (masses of previous posts on this topic)..Check this (carefully), after charging your battery with a muti-meter (set on Amps range) by disconnecting the battery negative lead and connect the meter in series (negative terminal on the battery post, positive on the earth lead with the meter leads placed in the correct sockets (if necessary). Ensure doors etc are shut, set the interior lights selector to permanently off (most down position) and strap a clamp on the bonnet-open microswitch. Wait a couple of minutes for the system to complete it's check cycles and then see how much current the system is pulling. If it's higher than (50mA ?) you have a problem. There are lots of problems reported with the audio amplifier.. including mine, I 'solved' mine temporarily by pulling the audio fuse and shoving it back if I go on a long journey.

Isn't that what wives are for ?

I don't want to appear the forums harbinger but.... If you have the OE installed radio / cd / amp then without a degree in electronics or the willingness to buy a soldering iron and hammer then you stand very little chance of integrating any hands free kit with the audio system. There are one or two detailed postings on the forum regarding this question, peruse & scream... Ah, the fun and enjoyment of the Voyager, but at least the default audio system sounds good... even if it does drain the battery of many owners. SORRY.................Richard

I'm about to replace the front wheel hubs on my Voyager - only 92K on the clock but she's getting very noisy and some (minimal) vibration on the steering wheel. I have ordered 2 hubs from GSF via ebay, have read on a previous post that there may be compatibility problems with the wheel studs. I assume I can swop the studs from the existing hubs but not sure, any info would help as I want to get this process over as quickly and painlessly as possible! Cheers Richard

Having searched for one for ages I wish yJ1850ou the best of luck. Search through the forum for OBD & scanner and peruse the results. The 2006 uses PCI bus ( J1850 PWM on pin 2 (4&5 Ground)). Pins 7 & 15 indicate SCI but haven't figured out how to talk to it yet.. Pin 9 indicates Flash Programme Enable which may have some relevance to the SCI bus but again haven't any more knowledge than that. According to some the only way to dig deep is with the DRB111 reader but others say this is obsolete re the later Voyagers - don't know, never seen one, they're vastly expensive and apparently as rare as hens' teeth. So, review the forum, search the net & if there are no problems, leave well alone (advice from me and my bank manager)

P0406 is associated with the EGR (Exhaust gas recirculation valve / sensor - it appears to be a common problem with the Voyager diesel - obviously the petrol version is not immune. You may be able to clear it with a good long run but no guarantees.

Join the club... I get this error quite frequently and the warning light comes on.. quite worrying the first couple of times as you assume something is seriously wrong.. but it isn't. The thing with mine is that at some stage the EWL switches itself off - which is a no no as far as my mechanic friends think. Anyway it does and then it decides to come back on. I have looked for some answer ro this on the web and the only comment I came across with reference to the EGR and Voyager was that there was apparently a software fix to lengthen the count down time before this triggers but that is long gone and no one has the facilities to rectify this in the UK (as far as I am aware). Why mine resets without clearing the code I don't know, now I just accept the EWL as part of the interior illuminations.. one day this will bite me in the butt but 'till then just keep trucking!

Just had the n/s/f sensor replaced - Graham (the mechanic) showed me the old one that had been ground down by that same crud, all tickety-boo now, first time in months I've drived the old girl without an amber glow coming from the dash (quite disconcerting really.

Sorry Sergie but that ain't where it is... it's underneath the engine, above the xmember 'jammed' inbetween the brake pipes coming fron the abs controller - still have the new one in the boot ....

Is it not possible to bock (or quickly remove) the love poison guy (and other non related cr*p) from the site?

Thank's for the response, it wasn't so much where the sensor is on the engine but what Chrysler have bolted around it on the Stow & Go as opposed to the (i NOW ASSUME) standard voyager shown in the uTube video. Well it seems like they stuck everything they could find to obstruct access. I will try and get some pictures taken when it goes back in for the rest of the work to be completed......

Welcome to the forum, few people read the newbie bit so suggest you post the question in the 300 forum, someone will hopefully have an answer for you although the availability of good diagnostic equipment on Chrysler diesel engines runs in the hens teeth area. Good luck with your new car.

Taking the opportunity to get a few things done whilst I took a few days off work (yes I am officially retired but...) I bought a replacement fuel filter assembly (old one split diaphragm - running on BMW in line filter), fuel pressure sensor (hence the need to replace fuel filter assembly for easy bleed), fuel regulator solenoid and crankshaft sensor (has always been difficult to start when warm), camshaft sensor already replaced) Fuel filter assembly - pipe broke during replacement... currently having new one fabricated. Fuel pressure sensor - replaced no problem. Crankshaft sensor - ho hum... I can find no reference to the 2.8 CRD details in any of the manuals; (I have the following downloaded] - 2005-RG-Diesel-SM,RG-Body,RG-Chassis,RG-Diesel-Powertrain,RG-SM,RG-Transmission). Searched on google only found reference to uTube - spent around an hour searching by browsing many different videos, the UTub search is useless - how can Chrysler Voyager 2.8 CRD Crankshaft sensor find Seebring camshafts, et al...... anyway found what appears to be a Russian (Eastern European anyway) one that lead me completely astray in assuming just fourish bolts and away you go. Yes you have to drop the crossmember (those above bolts), which then reveals the ABS unit and steering gear which are both apparently in the way (I'm relaying my friendly mechanic's telephone report, which was interspersed with sobs and whimpers, plus comments on cut fingers and bruised thumb nails - oh even the easy bits, those bolts again, was not that easy as the two main bolts were both seized and required the subtle application of very large hammers and an oxy-acetylene torch). So, after a short (30 minute) telephone conversation, the crankshaft sensor replacement has been abandoned, apparently the ABS pump would need disconnecting which means bleeding the brakes etc. and a half day job has swallowed most of his week. Oh and the new Bosch fuel regulator when fitted and alternator, belts etc. refitted, leaked diesel through the electrical plug so the old one had to be refitted. Joy oh Joy. So no CV until next week, a weekend of wondering how much lighter my bank account will be and thinking I should have left well alone (Eaststart is only a couple of pounds a can after all!). Now to the point of this ramble, does anyone have details and hopefully images of the procedures normally used to replace the C/shaft sensor on aMK4 2007 (2006 type) 2.8CRD ?????? I think I'll buy a new bicycle instead.

Glad to read that everything's working again ('cept aircon of course) best of luck with the MOT.

FCU is on the n/s in front of the IPM (the thing that house the fuses and relays), it's an aluminium box. I don't think you'll have hit it but you nay have caught a cable.(see image)

Headlamps (Export) are fed directly from the FCU (Front Control Module). The export (UK) has separate bulbs for main and dip beam - if both aren't working would suspect either the earth cable (Brown) via C107-5 (changes to black/tan after C107 to FCU (C1-5) is o/c (open circuit) or the FCU has thrown a WOBBLER. I assume the n/s is working OK. I don't think there are any fuses between the FCU and the bulbs (probably relies on the bulb filament acting as the fuse! The grey cable (at bulb) to white/grey after C107-2 feeds main beam (C1-6 at FCU), white (at bulb) to white/tan after C107-1 feeds dip (C1-10 at FCU) "C" denotes a connector. Headlights.pdf

Duct tape and WD40 fix most things - great news

Sorry about this but maybe this will help ? - from the CGV manual ; The power sliding door control module serves as the main computer for the power sliding door system. All power door functions are processed through the power sliding door control module and/or the vehicles Body Control Module (BCM). At the start of a power open command, a signal is sent to the BCM and then to the power sliding door control module via the Programmable Communication Interface (PCI) data bus circuit. This signal, generated by any of the power door command switches, tells the power sliding door control module to activate a power latch release, engage the clutch assembly and drive the door into the full open position. If an obstacle is felt during this power open cycle, the module will reverse direction and close the door. This process is also enabled during a power close cycle. This process will repeat three times, and if a fourth obstacle is detected, the door will go into full manual mode. Once the full open position is obtained, a hold open latch assembly mounted full open switch tells the power sliding door control module that the door has reached the full open position. If the power sliding door system develops any problems the power sliding door control module will store and recall Diagnostic Trouble Codes (DTC). The use of a diagnostic scan tool, such as the DRB IIIt is required to read and troubleshoot these trouble codes. Please do not ask about DRBIII - its taboo.

The first thing I should point out is that I am no expert, not a mechanic, not a vehicle electrician. Second thing to bring your attention to is that just about everything in these vehicles is controlled by various computers (microcontrollers) that talk to each other via the PCI bus. (Microcontrollers, and digital communications I am experienced on, ships tend to run on these blxxdy things these days, I am not however experienced nor knowledgeable about the Chrysler PCI bus or SAE J1850 protocol. The controllers, I believe, activate an electronic device (solenoid, motor etc.) by grounding it (independent ground from the chassis), this means when you check component live and ground the meter to the chassis it means absolutely squat all other than there is 12V at the terminal, the control module needs to ground the device correctly for it to operate. Be aware that if you disconnect the controller feed to some devices and then try to operate it an error code (DTC) MAY be generated that MAY inhibit the future operation of the device until the error (DTC) is cleared. So if you have removed the sliding door fuse (F31 - 40A) then non of the electrical devices relating to the doors should be able to activate or deactivate as they are all controlled by their respective Door Control Module, which in turn is controlled (for s/door locks), by the BCM (Body Control Module). With reference to the sliding doors I assume everything was tickety-boo before you changed the battery, I would therefore suggest you assume the wiring is still OK. If you carried out the thermistor mod before fitting the new battery I would recommend that you remove the resistor and reconnect the circuit as original ( did you identify the correct wire ? I am not sure any of this helps ~ if not sorry about the rambling.

On the fob one press on the "Unlock" opens the o/s doors (drivers side) two clicks unlocks all doors (except the tailgate that's got its own button (two clicks to unlock on mine which isn't a powered door)

Providing you sleeve the soldered joints (and ensure the joints are clean before soldering) there should be no problem, otherwise its two chocolate blocks (connectors). It doesn't matter which side of the thermistor you put the resistor on.