RichardM

OK, Clear now, new units are available on ebay for around £80.00 inc pp strut bearing. Strut support mount around £40.00

If the bearing assembly has collapsed it should not have damaged thesteering knuckle strut itself. The hub/bearing assembly bolts to the steering knuckle - the steering knuckle in turn bolts to the strut assembly. All of these are available on ebay ~ either new or second hand.. Had my hub /bearings replaced and supplied parts are excellent (see my previous posts on this for the supplier's contact details. I've attached the pages from the manual - hope this helps. FrontHub.pdf

Can not advise with any experience of this procedure but have extracted the procedure from the manual - treat with caution, the manual appears to be a guesstimate with procedures relating to the CRD - from previous experience.... hope it helps ExhaustManifold.pdf

Sorry gordy you've read it slightly wrong.. there are three cables for the hand /parking brake. A front (forward) cable runs from the handbrake lever to an intermediate bracket, this connects to two rear cables that connect to the rear brake mechanism.. or so the manual says!!!! If you're still trying to locate a cable & ebay can not help try 1stchoice.co.uk - I've used them before (not for the GV) and they're pretty good

One quick (1/2 second) burst of cold start & she fires up straight away ..........?????????????????????????

I assume you mean you've changed the battery in the fob and not the battery i the car. Suggest you try another battery - ensure it's inserted the correct way around... If that doesn't work try cleaning the contacts in the fob. There is no easy way to reprogram the fob to the vehicle it's all SKIM magic and I don't know f any resources in the UK - does anyone else ?

I thought about the cooling scheme but in twenty feet of water... Have replaced most of the sensors to do with the fuel system and replaced the fuel bleed valve. Is it possible that the high pressure fuel rail that alledgedly has a non return valve built into it could cause the problem ?. I question most things in the ws manual having found too many anomalies to trust that the Yanks actually took any interest in the European build... Am currently trying to figure out how to build an air trap (as per the old diesel tractors) - finding space to do anything is a nightmare.

If it's only the siren then you should be able to cut the feed or remove the earth from the siren and then leave it to drain it's internal battery. I don't believe this will trigger the immobiliser. Image from the w/s manual so no guarantees that's where it is -- anyone else confirm this ?

Nope sorry, same thing happened to me last year. Bought two different 'solutions' - pads etc. one lasted a week, the other approximately 1/2 an hour. My original detachment was due to me attaching a dash cam / rear view screen to the mirror which worked well until a really hot day must have melted the glue on the factory 'fit' / glued mount. My solution presently is to file the mirror away in the glovebox.

Be very careful when dealing with the alarm system, it's a Thatcham approved system which means the Yanks understand naff all about it. As maxcaddy said do not cut any wires or you may end up with a totally disabled vehicle. I have attached two images which (may) assist whatever workshop / auto electrician you go to BUT be aware with all things Euro Grand Voyager the w/shop manual may well be total bull do-dah. (Even the image of the export model shows LHD. If you haven't got round to disconnect & wait (Thursday's post), do this first - it's a lot cheaper .and is guaranteed to do no harm. ThatchamAlarm.pdf

Hi Nev, Booting mine just gives you a nice smile as it kicks up the road like a Porsche, (well almost), no smoke, no complaints... just that she sometimes throws a wobbler and dies for no reason at all.. tootling along at 40 and woops off she goes (bloody hard to stear when there's no power steering to help out!). I can live withthe hot no start - sort of but the dying with no warning is dangerous. Ah well let's see what happens next.

if you don't have any problem starting then I doubt if there is anything wrong with the battery... these busses are very demanding on the battery when starting.

Greetings one and all (again). Still suffering the no start when the engine is hot (normal running temp). Swapped the fuel feed solenoid from my 'spare' parts Voyager. Started first time, took her for a run to warm her up, switched off, counted to 500 or so (cup of coffee actually), switched her on and up she fired. Delight, delight, delight. Set off for home, 4 miles later engine cuts out and won't start. Out with the cold start fired up and drove home only for her to die again as I was turning into the drive, managed to roll far enough to abandon her for an hour. Went back started fine, parked her up the drive and went to bed. Next morning started her up went for a nervous drive around the block, no problem. Today drove to town, road works everywhere, nervously arrived in town half hour later. Bought the paint, went to start... nope... out with the ether, brum brum and drove home. Now the question.. what the hell is wrong with her ??? Put your foot down and she rips through the revs like a banshee. Drives beautifully until she doesn't. Problem is I have no confidence in the reliability, especially when considering long journeys. I am not convinced she isn't sucking air in somewhere but after new filter housing etc. I don't know. Question 2 : Where is this air bleed valve (see attached of page [RG Diesel Supplement Page 14a.4..] do you have one ? Neither of the Voyagers I own have one. Does anyone have any idea how to check for air in the system? With the new air filter housing I ca attempt to prime the line But it never seems to get hard enough to prevent further priming and, as the fuel system has ?? a non return valve feeding excess fuel back to the tank ?? I would not expect it to go rock solid .. should it ? aarrggghhhh. Have a good day.

I had this same experience a few months ago. Why it happened I have no idea, but with these vehicles various problems both large and small seem to hover around the periphery and sneak up on you, rather like a poltergeist, so how to cure it - well for me it was like sorting the computer out i.e. rebooting the beast. How ?, disconnect the negative terminal on the battery (10mm spanner), go and have a cup of tea (at least five minutes) reconnect the battery - ensure all doors etc are closed before reconnecting, switch on the ignition, and see what happens... I did this and everything was tickety -boo until I started the car in town after being parked up fot the day and hey-ho had to drive home (8 miles) with the alarm blaring and flashers flashing again. Disconnected battery again, left it overnight reconnected and so far so good - but still have no idea why it threw a wobbler in the first place.

Just an update on the hubs I bought from GSF; they have performed flawlessly, great value for money.

Well done on rectification, (wish I had your patience !

I would suggest you have serious words with whoever rebuilt your rack, you should have recourse on them for full rectification.

OH Bignev... and I thought I was suffering..... I don't want to tempt fate but the only problem(s) I have are difficult to start when engine is hot, Very very occasionally she just dies whilst driving along (bloody difficult to steer when the engine dies) have to wait an indeterminate time and then away she goes with no apology, no explanation and performs faultlessly .. until the next time. In three? years have replace fuel filter assembly (understand this is almost an annual event). New camshaft sensor. Heavy battery drain (cured by pulling the amplifier fuse (must get round to fixing the fault rather than bypassing it)). New front hub assemblies, much quieter now. Oh and the interior mirror fell off one very hot day .. must get round to fixing that. Have had numerous cases of the old girl having a mental breakdown (Thatcham alarm detonating .. interesting how little notice people take of a car driving down the road with the hazard lights flashing and the siren announcing itself to the world), cured by disconnecting battery (took four attempts). Handbrake of course is working as well as can be expected under the circumstances (but it gets through the MOT (sympathy vote I think). I bought another GV about a year ago as a spare parts store, haven't burgled it yet, apart from removing the amplifier with the intent on replacing mine (see battery drain) but removing the rear o/s trim seems to guarantee breaking the trim's supports and until I get round to checking the unidentified (huge) diode (not shown in the manual) am not 100% convinced it's a fault in the amp itself - any ideas ? So it seems I should count myself lucky ??

Silly idea, but will suggest it anyway as it doesn't cost anything. Disconnect the battery for 15 minutes, reconnect it with all doors etc. closed and light switches etc. off, when I do this I also shove a bulldog clip over the bonnet microswitch and if you've got a heavy leakage current, which I think you mentioned previously, pull the audio fuse (pink 30A). Reconnect, wait a minute for the demon(ic) computer to check itself out and switch on the ignition......hopefully it may solve some of the problems, if not suggest you get your meter out and check the alternator wiring (continuity etc) , the wire colours I attached to the last reply will I hope help with this. Best of luck, keep us informed of progress, or lack thereof.

Correct Carrotts, the manual (all praise for it's accuracy!!) designates it as the rear power output (rear cig lighter); attached is list of fuse designations Fuses.pdf

So, as usual the manual for the 'Export Model' is BS. Hardly surprising considering my (limited) experience working on the old girl, I usually ship it off to my friendly garage as I have neither the enthusiasm, motivation or tool set to deal with her. I guess I'm lucky having a local garage that I trust, they are honest even to the point of telling me to get rid of the bus and buy something more reliable, but I'm 6'5" and it's the only car I've driven that doesn't require double jointed knees. It's also great to just drop the seats when I need a van rather than the hernia inducing removal of other vehicles.......

Sorry but the manual states ; OPERATION Refer to the proper Body Diagnostic Procedures manual for complete chime/buzzer operation and conditions for operation. Don't even know what this manual is, the only other reference is to use the impossible to find and bank balance draining DRB 111 scan tool. Hopefully it's just the buzzer / chime itself that has gone up the duff, assume its buried in the dash but I honestly don't know... Anyone out there with any ideas ?

The Voyager's parking brake is famous for being useless, especially on the export models that have a hand operated braking system. The Yanks have a foot operated system aka Mercedes and you can put a lot more force on the brakes with a size ten than you can with your arm. Just try pulling on the hand brake as hard as you can (use both hands and pull like buggery (you wont brake the cables - unless they are very badly corroded). Do this a few (many) times and see what happens (it doesn't cost anything anyway). This helped with mine, it's still pathetic but it got through the MOT. Don't know what year your vehicle is but this info from the manual (for what it's worth) for the 2005 on RG chassis model; The automatic-adjusting feature in the foot operated parking brake lever continuously applies minimal tension to the parking brake cables when the parking brake lever is in the released position to keep them in adjustment at all times. Due to this feature, the parking brake cables require no periodic adjustment. When the parking brake lever is applied, the cables are pulled, thus applying the brake shoes (rear drum brakes) or parking brake shoes (rear disc brakes) at each rear wheel. The brake shoes are mechanically operated by an internal lever and strut connected to the rear parking brake cables. An equalizer bracket is used at the rear end of the front parking brake cable to distribute tension equally to each parking brake cable. Vehicles equipped with rear disc brakes use a small duo-servo brake assembly mounted to the each rear disc brake calliper adapter as the parking brake. The inside of the brake rotor (hat section of drum-inhat style brake rotor) is used as the parking brake drum. Best of luck - edit your profile to identify your vehicle !!

Suggest if you're replacing the sensor check the rotor for corrosion, had to replace the n/s/f sensor for the MOT in December & the rotor's corrosion had built up so much that it scoured the sensor's bottom edge off (hence the ABS light on!)

I don't know if this is of use to anyone, it's the fuse's value & wiring relating to the above image... Fuses.pdf