RichardM

Sorry to hear of your GV's demise. Mine's parked in the back garden SORNed - still trying to be brave enough to let her go. (The like doesn't mean I like the info) Commiserations, I think you and I are (were) the last of the Mohicans... all the best

Do a search in this forum - personally don't know - two images attached for pump and resevoir inc hoses - hope it helps. - these are from the 2.8crd manual

No need to worry (assuming the radio is standard GV), the radio is hard coded to the vehicle - disconnect away. If you've had this from new and have never flattened the battery or had to disconect it to sort out the electrics then you have a rare beast.

Well after trying everything I can think of it's time to say goodbye to my favorite vehicle! I've lived with spraying cold start when trying to start the engine when it's hot but cannot live with the stalling whilst driving - too dangerous with no brakes and steering the Hulk would struggle with, so now searching for replacement. Pity, love the car, great performance great space, great comfort but too dangerous. Plus may get brownie points from her indoors as she claims it's toobig for her to drive.

This is probably a useless suggestion but I needed to get an extra click on the ratchet which meant pulling it up more than it wanted to go - so I straddled the handbrake lever, pulled with all my might which gave me three clicks on the ratchet. I assume you only want 1/3rd of the pull to release the handle. If all else fails, and if you don't live too far away you are welcome to help yourself to the whole handbrake mechanism on my 'spare' 2006 GV - you will have to dismantle it though!.

Be, sorry about the slight delay (approx 3120 days) but have been quite busy lately. Notice you were in Taipei when you replied to Penguin.., was in Taipei and Taichung 1984 (ish) - loved the place, loved the people - never learnt the language though. Anyway, this is to offer my help as an apprentice moderator if the post is still vacant ! Regards Richard

This applies to the 2.8 CRd - specifically the 2006/7 vrsion where the EGR valve sits at the front of the engine on the right hand side (viewed from the front), just behind the fan relays. Ignore the workshop manual completely - if you have one, this refers either to the 2.5l or an earlier version of the engine where the EGR was at the rear of the engine. Access is a pig, especally if you have large or even noral sized hands. Be prepared for cuts and abrasions galore. Having said all that it's not as bad as it first appears. Equip yourself with plenty of disposable gloves, Swafega, rags etc. 1. Remove battery - a) for safety b) for somewhere to stick the coolant pressure container (Chrysler's description not mine) 2. Unclip this container and pull upwards to disconnect from its rear slide. after disconnecting the front pipe. Disconnect the two vacuum pipes connecting the ERG valve to the solenoids. You should be able to access the jubilee clip securing the EGR's air inlet pipe, slacken off and push the pipe downwards. There is a circular clip holding the EGR valve to the sump feed pipe (where all the sh*t comes from), then insert a #5 allen key and unscrew fully. CAREFULLY bend the clip open until it can be dropped down the pipe. Remove the 4 8mm bolts securing the valve to the inlet manifold pipe. At this stage I would suggest you do not do this over a grass driveway as I did because finding the dropped bolts is a nightmare. Lift the EGR valve out. (Be patient, curse freely - it will come out. If you are removing, cleaning and refitting have fun. I still have remnants of the gunge in my fingernails despite gloves, swarfega and petrol. [Note the EGR cleaning spray I ordered hadn't turned up so I used some industrial cleaner (modern type [non smelly] Gunk - for those of you that remember solvent based degreasers) After cleaning or unwrapping your replacement valve I would suggest holding the valve in place by loosely fitting 2 of the 8mm bolts to secure the valve against the inlet pipe before refitting the pipe clamp underneath the valve. - PATIENCE patience patience. Then fit the other two bolts and tighten all four. Refit the vacuum pipes, refit the air inlet pipe and tighten jubilee clip, refit coolant tank, top up any lost coolant, refit battery. Should be done! Including two cups of coffee time taken ~ 4 hours (Any fit member of the cult should be able to cut this time by at least 25% Note: A year or so ago it was suggested to me to buy on eof the EGR sprays that clean the valve whilst you run the engine on tickover, so I followed the instructions and sprayed the magic folmulae having disconnected the inlet pipe from the air filter. 1. The air inlet to the EGR comes from a secondary inlet via the grill. 2. The ECM deactivated the EGR during tickover. So, I think this was a waste of time, waste of money ?? Comments ?

Suggest you post this question in the Mk V GV - this section only goes to 2007ish ....

Suggest you scan the forum for radio replacement before you begin. The Chrysler supplied units are tied to the amplifier in the rear quarter which feeds all the speakers. If you replace the head you will have to rewire to the speakers (watch the impedance)

Sorry, been out of commission for a few weeks, sounds like you had the luck of the Irish (or Celtic at least), congratulations & don't kick yourself too much - everyone cocks up occasionally - except our politicians of course..................

Nothing wrong with a good bodge!

You need to be more specific with the problem - If you struggle with the language, use your native language in google translate, turn it into English, copy the text and then paste it into the forum.

Sorry but would suggest ECU has been electrocuted! - There is a feed to this that does not go via the ign switch i.e. live all the time.

located after the air cleaner (o/s engine ) -> see dwg.

Mk4 is not fully OBD compliant, J1850 protocol is implemented for some functions but very few readers work, even fewer allow you to reprogram anything.. The battery temperature sensor is also used for OBD II diagnostics. Certain faults and OBD II monitors are either enabled or disabled depending upon the battery temperature sensor input (example: disable purge and EGR, enable LDP). Most OBD II monitors are disabled below 20°F. The battery temp is read via a NTC thermistor readings are; SPECIFICATIONS - BATTERY TEMPERATURE SENSOR °C °F K-Ohms Min. K-Ohms Max. -40 -40 291.4 381.7 -20 - 4 85.8 108.4 20 68 11.4 13.6 25 77 9.1 10.9 120 248 0.37 0.41 130 266 0.28 0.32 to bypass if you cannot get a replacement thermistor replace it with a 12K resistor (20sih degrees C. Any mention of diagnosis in the manual refers to the DRBIII reader - obsolete 2nd hand rare and blxxdy expensive.

Believe they are the same (in general), ..... Understand that Chrysler made a mod to the 41TE in 2007 - but what this mod was I do not know. I had my tx filter changed last year and it took two tries to obtain the correct replacement (this is with the VIN supplied ).. so can find no other reference to the AD/AE bit. The 41TE is a derivative of the A604.

'Tech section -> Vehicle Assistance Chrysler Voyager / Grand Voyager Voyager 4th Generation (2001-2007

Trust you have a multimeter. Haven't had this problem but - A signal is sent to the sliding door lock motor P34 TN/LB to unlock - maybe if in quiet position you'll hear this actuate - there is probably a logic somewhere saying yes door lock released (as per manually pressing the latch) ??? If there is no action on the actuator check voltage & current - if voltage but no current suggest actuator buggered, if neither check wiring back to BCM. (Wiring diagram attached.) Goodluck - let us know how you get on. (I do have a spares GV if you need a replacement)

Turn heating / air con off, then start, drive off then switch on the heater - works for me.

Sympathy for living in Melbourne, lived there myself for two years, sourcing parts is probably going to be restricted to online (ebay etc.) except where parts are common between the GV and the Jeep, don't know what penetration the GV made into the Australian market, would think most would be the V8 petrol version judging by what I remember about fuel prices.

congrats on sorting problem with intercooler,as for the fob -possible co-incidence - maybe battery needs changing ? Is it just the lock - unlock not working - assume car still recognises the SKIM & therefore starts OK ???

Not aware of any previous details - there are three cables from the parking brake lever, lever to intermediate bracket, n/s cable to bracket and o/s cable these are extracts from w/s manual hope they help

bignev is right, the 2.8GV engine is of the interference design, i.e. it relies on the timing between crank and cams to stop valve meeting piston. If they do meet it ain't a pretty sight.

sorry for delay, been on other duties.... and notifications seem to have seized up. To answer your question, a bloody lot -ripped knuckles guaranteed and this is on a new filter housing. Can not be any more specific cause I don't need to do this very often these days (grateful for small mercies)

Assuming you have a diesel the attached may help...PSPump.rtfPSPump.rtfPSPump.rtf