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RichardM last won the day on August 24 2023
RichardM had the most liked content!
About RichardM
- Birthday 05/14/1952
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Male
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Boston,Lincolnshire
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Mechanical Engineering
Electronics inc Arduino , ESP32 etc.
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Power steering pipes
RichardM replied to scotsholme's question in Voyager 4th Generation (2001-2007)
Do a search in this forum - personally don't know - two images attached for pump and resevoir inc hoses - hope it helps. - these are from the 2.8crd manual -
bignev reacted to an answer to a question: Radio code
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No need to worry (assuming the radio is standard GV), the radio is hard coded to the vehicle - disconnect away. If you've had this from new and have never flattened the battery or had to disconect it to sort out the electrics then you have a rare beast.
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Well after trying everything I can think of it's time to say goodbye to my favorite vehicle! I've lived with spraying cold start when trying to start the engine when it's hot but cannot live with the stalling whilst driving - too dangerous with no brakes and steering the Hulk would struggle with, so now searching for replacement. Pity, love the car, great performance great space, great comfort but too dangerous. Plus may get brownie points from her indoors as she claims it's toobig for her to drive.
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This is probably a useless suggestion but I needed to get an extra click on the ratchet which meant pulling it up more than it wanted to go - so I straddled the handbrake lever, pulled with all my might which gave me three clicks on the ratchet. I assume you only want 1/3rd of the pull to release the handle. If all else fails, and if you don't live too far away you are welcome to help yourself to the whole handbrake mechanism on my 'spare' 2006 GV - you will have to dismantle it though!.
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bignev reacted to a post in a topic: Moderator Help
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Be, sorry about the slight delay (approx 3120 days) but have been quite busy lately. Notice you were in Taipei when you replied to Penguin.., was in Taipei and Taichung 1984 (ish) - loved the place, loved the people - never learnt the language though. Anyway, this is to offer my help as an apprentice moderator if the post is still vacant ! Regards Richard
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RichardM reacted to an answer to a question: 2014 grand voyager
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This applies to the 2.8 CRd - specifically the 2006/7 vrsion where the EGR valve sits at the front of the engine on the right hand side (viewed from the front), just behind the fan relays. Ignore the workshop manual completely - if you have one, this refers either to the 2.5l or an earlier version of the engine where the EGR was at the rear of the engine. Access is a pig, especally if you have large or even noral sized hands. Be prepared for cuts and abrasions galore. Having said all that it's not as bad as it first appears. Equip yourself with plenty of disposable gloves, Swafega, rags etc. 1. Remove battery - a) for safety b) for somewhere to stick the coolant pressure container (Chrysler's description not mine) 2. Unclip this container and pull upwards to disconnect from its rear slide. after disconnecting the front pipe. Disconnect the two vacuum pipes connecting the ERG valve to the solenoids. You should be able to access the jubilee clip securing the EGR's air inlet pipe, slacken off and push the pipe downwards. There is a circular clip holding the EGR valve to the sump feed pipe (where all the sh*t comes from), then insert a #5 allen key and unscrew fully. CAREFULLY bend the clip open until it can be dropped down the pipe. Remove the 4 8mm bolts securing the valve to the inlet manifold pipe. At this stage I would suggest you do not do this over a grass driveway as I did because finding the dropped bolts is a nightmare. Lift the EGR valve out. (Be patient, curse freely - it will come out. If you are removing, cleaning and refitting have fun. I still have remnants of the gunge in my fingernails despite gloves, swarfega and petrol. [Note the EGR cleaning spray I ordered hadn't turned up so I used some industrial cleaner (modern type [non smelly] Gunk - for those of you that remember solvent based degreasers) After cleaning or unwrapping your replacement valve I would suggest holding the valve in place by loosely fitting 2 of the 8mm bolts to secure the valve against the inlet pipe before refitting the pipe clamp underneath the valve. - PATIENCE patience patience. Then fit the other two bolts and tighten all four. Refit the vacuum pipes, refit the air inlet pipe and tighten jubilee clip, refit coolant tank, top up any lost coolant, refit battery. Should be done! Including two cups of coffee time taken ~ 4 hours (Any fit member of the cult should be able to cut this time by at least 25% Note: A year or so ago it was suggested to me to buy on eof the EGR sprays that clean the valve whilst you run the engine on tickover, so I followed the instructions and sprayed the magic folmulae having disconnected the inlet pipe from the air filter. 1. The air inlet to the EGR comes from a secondary inlet via the grill. 2. The ECM deactivated the EGR during tickover. So, I think this was a waste of time, waste of money ?? Comments ?
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Suggest you post this question in the Mk V GV - this section only goes to 2007ish ....
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Upgrading the radio /cd head unit
RichardM replied to Fishdaddy's question in Voyager 4th Generation (2001-2007)
Suggest you scan the forum for radio replacement before you begin. The Chrysler supplied units are tied to the amplifier in the rear quarter which feeds all the speakers. If you replace the head you will have to rewire to the speakers (watch the impedance) -
RichardM reacted to a question: I Cleaned It!
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Sorry, been out of commission for a few weeks, sounds like you had the luck of the Irish (or Celtic at least), congratulations & don't kick yourself too much - everyone cocks up occasionally - except our politicians of course..................
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Nothing wrong with a good bodge!
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RichardM reacted to an answer to a question: Exhaust replacement
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You need to be more specific with the problem - If you struggle with the language, use your native language in google translate, turn it into English, copy the text and then paste it into the forum.
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bignev reacted to an answer to a question: Justanumpty
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Sorry but would suggest ECU has been electrocuted! - There is a feed to this that does not go via the ign switch i.e. live all the time.
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located after the air cleaner (o/s engine ) -> see dwg.
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Mk4 is not fully OBD compliant, J1850 protocol is implemented for some functions but very few readers work, even fewer allow you to reprogram anything.. The battery temperature sensor is also used for OBD II diagnostics. Certain faults and OBD II monitors are either enabled or disabled depending upon the battery temperature sensor input (example: disable purge and EGR, enable LDP). Most OBD II monitors are disabled below 20°F. The battery temp is read via a NTC thermistor readings are; SPECIFICATIONS - BATTERY TEMPERATURE SENSOR °C °F K-Ohms Min. K-Ohms Max. -40 -40 291.4 381.7 -20 - 4 85.8 108.4 20 68 11.4 13.6 25 77 9.1 10.9 120 248 0.37 0.41 130 266 0.28 0.32 to bypass if you cannot get a replacement thermistor replace it with a 12K resistor (20sih degrees C. Any mention of diagnosis in the manual refers to the DRBIII reader - obsolete 2nd hand rare and blxxdy expensive.
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Which transmission do i have?
RichardM replied to Kieran76's question in Voyager 4th Generation (2001-2007)
Believe they are the same (in general), ..... Understand that Chrysler made a mod to the 41TE in 2007 - but what this mod was I do not know. I had my tx filter changed last year and it took two tries to obtain the correct replacement (this is with the VIN supplied ).. so can find no other reference to the AD/AE bit. The 41TE is a derivative of the A604.