BrownSugar

You say that on pressing the accelerator you had no power. Was the engine revving or bogging down? If it was bogging down I imagine it would be a fuel or ignition issue. If the engine is revving but you're not accelerating then it would be a gearbox issue. I had a similar problem on an old Vauxhall Carlton years ago. It was also intermittent, it turned out to be the airflow sensor on that big plastic tube that runs from the air filter box. Replaced that and problem solved. But first thing is get it on a diagnostic computer mate.

I'm looking for a nice set off 22 inch rims to fit on my 300c SRT Design. Let me know if you have any and want to sell. Cheers

My SRT Design has those plastic fender flares stuck to the wheel arches. They trap water and encourage rust. Thinking about removing them. I just posted the evidence on YouTube.... https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=PiMNiPUfnGE&feature=youtu.be

My SRT Design has those plastic fender flares stuck to the wheel arches. They trap water and encourage rust. Thinking about removing them. I just posted the evidence on YouTube.... https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=PiMNiPUfnGE&feature=youtu.be

Well done for finding those wheels, will make a big difference to the look of your 300. The wheels should fit fine. I drive an SRT Design with 20 inch alloys. My tyres are 255/45R/20. However, make sure you have the correct wheel nuts for those wheels.

Just watched this video. At the end he says with a brand new module you have to drive the car for about 100 miles for the car to recognise it. https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=fln-6-Qkn7Y

My 300 had a MyGig REW and it went kapput when I disconnected the battery to put a new one in. Never disconnect the battery! A new MyGig from Chrysler was £2,400. In the end I replaced it with a Sony but it wasn't an easy swap. You need an adapter for the dash facia, an adaptor for the wiring harness, and an adaptor for the steering wheel controls. Mine is an SRT Design and they have a Boston Amplifier. I had it fitted professionally but even they had four goes to get it right. The canbus wouldn't recognise it and it wouldn't see the amp. They sorted it eventually, cost me £600 including fitting.

It might need a program update. Not 100 percent sure though. Maybe you could speak to a Chrysler dealer... give them some blah, make them think you're going to order a new unit from them and ask if it's just a plug and play install. If they say no then it's a good bet the second hand unit won't be either.

My SRT Design has 20 inch rims on it. I'm thinking of fitting 22 inch rims. Has anyone done this? Any issues? Wishing you hadn't done it for any reason?

Cheers mate. I'll ask the question on here about the 22s to see if anyone has had any issues.

For future info. If you need parts for your beast these guys are great: www.custom300cshop.co.uk www.chrysler300c.org.uk

New Moog drop links were ordered last night, awaiting delivery. I put Moog polyurethane bushes on the anti roll bar last summer. Hope you get your beast sorted. Everything can be fixed, it just takes time and money. Stay safe mate.

That's not right... it's a push on. Exactly like the pics I attached yesterday.

Sorry to hear about the missus mate. You defo can't be selling her 300 now. Mine is a 2008 black SRT Design with 20 inch alloys and blacked out windows. Thinking of buying some 22s for it. It also has all the bells and whistles, black leather interior etc. I had to replace the MyGig when I bought a new battery for the car. It didn't like being disconnected from its life source for 30 seconds. When I turned on the ignition I had a load of warning lights on the dash and the MyGig went kapput. Cost me 40 quid to reset all the lights and 600 quid for a new Sony stereo! A new MyGig was £2,400 from Chrysler. Damn that battery. I've had beemers, Jags, Daimlers... all better build quality, but none look as good or turn heads like the 300. I even drove a bride to her wedding in it last September. Trust me though, she was more of a head turner than the 300.

Go to ebay and put "000 905 61 02" in the search. There's hundreds on there.

Mine is a 2008 SRT Design.

Give GSF a bell in the morning mate. I don't trust the website. They were very helpful on the phone. I called the Letchworth branch coz it's closest to me. Wheels in Stevenage are good too but phone them, website not updated often enough.

I have no problem getting parts round here. However, the Cotswolds is a much nicer part of the world. Yin and Yang mate.

I actually bought two, one from www.gsfcarparts.com and one from www.wheelsmotorfactors.com The part number from GSF is 000 905 61 02 The part number from Wheels is 929 ME 0450. I'll try attaching some pics.

Oh man! That's ridiculous... it's just a car not a spaceship. Standby....

I've been looking for that front end knocking since I got the car. It passes the MOTs, I've had it checked over, each time they tell me nothing is worn. Replaced the anti roll bar bushes but still there. it only knocks when I'm driving slowly over a rough surface though. I'll try swapping the drop links.

Different engine but the same ECT and same procedure to swap it. The only difference is no coolant escaped on the Chrysler because the ECT is on the top of the engine, not on the side. https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=FKerNw8fW20&feature=youtu.be

Hi, That main dealer price for the ECT is daylight robbery. I ordered mine from my local parts store in Stevenage and it was less than five quid. It's an easy swap... no need to disconnect the battery! It is in a slightly awkward place but no issues. Just be careful with the wiring... don't twist or stretch and pull. Don't drain the coolant either. When you find the sensor you will see it's held in place with an elongated circlip. Use a flat end screwdriver to release the circlip... careful you don't drop it. The sensor then pulls out. Disconnect it from the wiring and replace with the new one. The only fiddly bit is getting the circlip back on, just don't drop it. For info NEVER disconnect the battery on these cars unless you absolutely have to. The result is loads of warning lights on the dash needing a diagnostic computer to reset them. There are lots of posts on this forum where people have had problems due to flat batteries or replacing old for new.

Hi, Have you changed the engine coolant temperature sensor (ECT)? You say that once warm it starts up fine. I was having the opposite problem... started fine when cold, then when hot it wouldn't fire up, just turned over and over. The ECT tells the Engine Management Unit whether the engine is hot or cold, then the EMU decides whether to go into cold start or hot start mode. If the ECT is knackered it will be giving the wrong information... it's like starting an old car without using the choke when cold... or using the choke when it's hot. The Engine Coolant Temperature (ECT) sensor is quite cheap, available from your local parts store, and is an easy swap (ten minutes). See if it works... it did for me. Open the hood, remove the plastic cover and the sensor is on the top of the right bank about half way down... see pic below.

... and this is what I hate about modern cars. I had a very similar problem two years ago. I was driving down the A10 at 80 mph, suddenly I get the chime, the lightning bolt of death, and the car goes into limp mode as I'm overtaking a convoy of trucks. After a 50 quid diagnostic it turned out to be a leak in a pipe leading to the turbo. An old school motor would have kept going, eventually the leak would have got really bad and I'd have heard it and fixed it. But the car wouldn't have put me on offer in the fast lane. Glad you sorted it mate.