stevesmp

One pair for rear brake discuss still in the original packaging but never used. £60 for the pair and can post at cost.

Hi Richard Thanks for your reply and sorry for the delay in responding. I have around 75000 miles on my GV and will be traveling around Europe so just wanted someone competent to look over the vehicle and investigate, what I believe is a transmission error code. I will check out the chap you have highlighted. Thanks

Hi Guys I have a Grand Voyager 2.8 CDR 2005 and suspect that the torque converter may need to be replaced. I am based in Camberley, Surrey and seem to recall that someone recommended a Auto Transmission specialist in Reading. Would anyone have any recommendations as I am conscious that I need a company that knows what they are doing. Thanks

Hi Les I am guessing you might have fixed this now but I have the same vehicle as yourself and had the same problem. What did work was to take the rear wheel off and rotor and adjust the small star like adjustment screw situated on the underside of the wheel hub. I adjusted this so the shoes pressed tight against the inside of the rotor with the handbrake off. Then went for a short spin, applying the handbrake at the same time. Prior to this adjustment the car would move forward about an inch when the handbrake was applied, so this did solve my problem and no issue with passing MOT.

Hi Richard Thanks for that comprehensive reply it was interesting and useful. I am ex salty myself (offshore drilling) but my skills lean more towards the mechanical sector. In answer to your question I have not undertaken the button mod yet, as I am awaiting delivery of the resistor and a few other bits. Today the doors seem to be working as they should, I am not sure why but I did remove the battery and tie wrap the pos and neg cable together for 12 hours whilst the battery what being topped up by my charger. I also sprayed WD 40 into the door latches, couldn't say if this has resolved the problem but at the moment everything is working. Thanks again for you input it was much appreciated.

Hi Richard Thanks for your reply and I will go ahead with this mod later in the week. Not sure if this will solve my problem but certainly worth a try. Unfortunately my dead battery has culminated in a new problem, after installing a new battery over the weekend - sliding doors opening and closing randomly. So this will be another issue to deal with but would appreciate any advise you could offer. I have scanned the forum and undertaken the following: New Varta F18 Battery / Pulled IOD fuse and reinstalled after 20 mins - disconnected battery for 12 hrs and then reconnected - no change doors still opening. Checked for wire breaks in the sliding door (tank track conduit) on both sides but looks good and in any event both doors work and open and close as they should. This was just a visual check with wires in situ . Checked both car key fobs and removed batteries but doors would still open and close. I have now pulled the fuse for the sliding doors, however I can still hear what would sound like the door mechanism are opening/ locking randomly. No mods have been done on the vehicle apart from a tow bar being fitted 8 years ago. Any other suggestion please. Rgs Steve

Happy New Year everyone. Over the last few days I have been reading over Leedsman "Button Mod" suggestion, following continual battery issues which I believe are likely cause by "lifestyles choices". I have had the vehicle from new and 65k on the clock. The battery tray mod was undertaken three years ago and allowed me to install the Varta F18 which was a big improvement. I would now like to undertake the button mode that has been discussed extensively on this forum, although I am first to admit I have limited experience with electronics. I know Leedsman mentioned inserting a resistor (33KO) in series on the live 5 volt lead going to the "cold battery sensor" and using a connection block, although this wasn't apparent on the photo that was provided so I just wanted to check if when inserting a resistor in series are two connection blocks used (sorry if this is naive) or is their an other standard practise for doing this. I did think about soldering but understand this can be problematic. Regards. Steve

Good afternoon Just installed a new Varta F18 battery and noticed that the three cables running to the positive lead are worn and need to be replaced. I would like to change these out but having problems establishing the best cable to use. I have followed the cable back along the harness and the cables are: fuse link GA 10 - RED WITH WHITE STRIP fuse link GA 14 - YELLOW WITH RED STRIP fuse link GA 18 - RED WITH GREEN STRIP I believe these are all the original cables from the date of manufacture although not sure who or when that heatshink was applied. I had thought about just measuring the diameter of each cable and then purchasing some marine/automotive tinned cable but just wanted to check fist. I have included a photo. Thanks Steve

Well the removal tool off ebay was crap but channel locks worked great providing you move the steering wheel to give better access under the car, given the limited space.

I am just about to do this job so thanks Karmannski for that breakdown. I have a removal tool that is good to 42 mm diameter, would anyone know if this is likely to fit, prior to me delving into to what would seem to be a very small workspace.

Hi Bignev Managed to get some at £59.99 which was more then other Ebay suppliers but came from a main dealer. Never quite sure about buying for paces in the Eastern part of Europe. Thanks for your help and I am sure I will be back on hear before long.

Thanks Taxi driver, having read numerous threads about the correct transmission fluid certainly Mopar ATF + 4 would seem to be the fluid that is recommended although I did see recommendations for Millermatic ATF as well the Comma product I mentioned. I don't do that many miles in vehicle so I think I will just top up with Mopar ATF +4 and then attempt to undertake a filter and transmission oil change in the summer, as thanks to this site I feel confident that this is something I can do. Any suggestions of places to purchased Mopar ATF +4 , google search takes me to Latvia via Ebay at £47.00 for 5 ltrs. Thanks.

Ok thanks very much for your help

Thanks for your reply, embarrassingly I didn't have the engine idling prior to testing the transmission oil level and I incorrectly assumed that the cold mark on the dip stick meant engine off. With the benefit of hindsight I should have come here first rather then youtube. I am now suspecting that the transmission oil level may be too low and a possible the reason why I have experience these issues. Unfortunately I could not find anything in the manual that refers to the correct procedure when measuring the transmission oil, only what was written on the dipstick, which I guess is not the full story. I extracted about 2.5 ltrs to bring the dipstick oil level down to the cold mark but I am guessing the procedure I undertook has given a false reading. I guess that I should replace thought 2.5 ltrs and run through what you have outlined.

I have a Chrysler Grand Voyager 2.8 diesel 2005 and think I may have screwed up. The vehicle has been running fine but I just thought I would check the transmission fluid level and noticed this was way above the suggested cold level indicator on the dip stick. It was in fact above the hot level indicator mark (engine cold and in park position). I then proceeded to vacuum out some the transmission oil via the dipstick and got it to the correct level ie cold mark. The vehicle was in park and had not been used for 24 hours. I had the car serviced and I know the transmission oil used is Comma Automatic Transmission & PSF MVATF Plus fully synthetic which I understand is ATF+4 compatible. This morning I started up the vehicle and there was a noticeable delay of about 3 seconds before the gear engaged. I did cycle through the gears before trying to move forward and again a 3 second delay. I beginning to wish I left every thing alone. Not really had any problems previously and had the vehicle from new, currently with 70k on the clock Any suggestions please and would it be worth just refilling to where the oil make was in the first place contrary to what it says on the dip stick. I have only driven about 10 metres so far as I didn't want cause any possible damage. Rgs. Steve.