maxcaddy

Fairly sure it's one of these https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/THERMOSTAT-ASSEMBLY-WITH-TEMPERATURE-SENSOR-CHRYSLER-GRAND-VOYAGER-2007-2-8CRD/293170661711?hash=item444255494f:g:voQAAOSwQnFdP-FT However as I say, my intention is to strip out my existing one and instead use an inline one.

So, after looking under the bonnet to see how easy fitting a new Stat could be, I concluded that it was going to be a right game, and as Autumn/Winter was approaching, did the sensible choice and put off doing it . This weekend (some 6 months later) I thought that to be ready for Spring/Summer I would have to do it, and have spent the weekend trying to get the old Stat off. For anyone who as had a go with theirs, Wow well done, for anyone thinking about it, yes its do-able but a complete bitch of a job to do, and hopefully I will be able to get everything back together afterwards. The biggest issue is the plastic intake pipe which sits exactly where you need to get yer hands. To be honest I came back on here cos mine wouldn't move and after re-reading what's to be done, I now see there are 2 bolts on one side which I missed, taking only one bolt off from each side . If its not raining tomorrow it should come off. My plan is to take out the guts of the unit making it in effect an elbow, and use the inline Renault type unit to control the the Temp. We'll see how it goes .

Perhaps he changed the Servo but then found it didn't actually cure the pedal, so then sold the car to you ?. If so you could be in a world of expense and diagnostic time, which if you're not equipped with all the right gear could end up more an arm and leg than a chew on a bullet...........

Cheers, thanks for answering. I wonder if the 2007 onwards Stat is the same as for the MK5 versions (2008 onwards) ?. Anyway, would you (or anyone else) know if the Stat is this one https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/CHRYSLER-VOYAGER-2-5-RCD-88kW-105kW-110kW-2000-2008-Thermostat/232628224210?fits=Model%3AVoyager%7CCars+Year%3A2008&epid=1623209413&hash=item3629b900d2:g:V9gAAOSwJc9aWJpv as that seems to have sensor fittings etc. Alternatively is it possible to either remove the moving parts or sub unit, whereby I would then have in effect no Stat, and then worry about fitting an inline one to the top hose if needs be come winter time ?

All very interesting . I've been having the problem whereby it (2.8 CRD) runs sweetly, but now gets very hot (temp gauge up to 3/4 or more) when fully loaded/climbing hills. That said, as soon as I ease off, it quickly cools down again to the midway point. When checking it after a run, the top Hose is red hot, the bottom warm, so (to me) all the symptoms of a stuck Thermostat. Then, on reading on here that the Thermostat failure mode can only be open, I was starting to think that the system had to be okay, and that it had to be the Radiator core that was all gummed up with old HOAT antifreeze, which was stopping the circulation. However, it now appears that if your GV is a mid 07 onwards (mine's registered Dec 07, so one of the very last 4th Gen), it has a different Thermostat and housing, and can in fact fail shut, which would give all the symptoms above ???. So is my analogy of the problem correct ?, and if so, am I in need of a (very) rare late 07 Thermostat/housing, or is it a blocked Rad core ??? Advice please

Cheers Nev, as I say it's always worrying when no one else has ever had the same problem..Anyway I'll try the IOD fuse as I do have the rear doors play up at times, and hopefully its as easy as having a dirty contact. Other than that as nothing in the dash has been touched in 5 years I'm hesitant to go in there, as I could cause more trouble than what I have. My concern with the red light was that it was associated with the ignition/alarm/immobiliser, and that it might then not want to start if it happened all the time. Not sure about the US site as, A, a lot of them use a mechanic and then report back what the mechanic said and not what they themselves had found or done, B, that unless the model is exactly the same there can be a world of différence in problems with a RHD Diesel against a LHD Petrol, and lastly that up until now I've always had good responses off of here .

So when it started it was/is just an inconvenience. With a wife to listen to I didn't need the radio, and the fitted Satnav is little better than a compass............ However, the fact that no one else has had this issue/or wants to admit to it, is concerning as if it's a rare fault, then what else is liable to be affected/also going to go wrong ???

Because over the years I've had a few battery issues due to starter motor, leaving the inside lights on, using the power supply, etc etc I now always carry a spare battery. It's more than big enough inside to lose it, and sod's law, if you have one with you, you'll never need it.

For some unknown reason the Radio Screen has started to muck about. It turns itself off while going along, and sometimes fails to come on after starting. When it goes off the red warning light flashes. Anyone else had this ?, All constructive comments gratefully received

Good site You could think that following the 'Threads' that a https://www.trademotion.com/parts/index.cfm?searchText=04684286&make=Chrysler&action=oePartSearch&siteid=213674 which says its a 'Bushing Cradle' (sounds right to me) could be the part, but without a picture and sizes, its a bit of guess work

Okay, anyone on here got a 'removable' Tow Hook ?. I.e. the Hook is held in by a pin to the rest of the Tow Bar assembly. I bought mine off of eBay when I bought the GV, and it I think it came from Italy at quite a good price. However, now I want to take it off God knows where the instructions are, and its not been undone in 5 years. I know there's a sequence like turn something left to right then crank the arm the other way and it wiggles out, but mine will need a gentle tap or two, and if I tap it the wrong way I can see the lever snapping off. Any knowledge would be very welcomed

Doing that job and any similar jobs in the future, would pay you to get hold of a basic 3/4 drive set (i.e. a used set off eBay) the difference when putting your back into pulling a 3/4 bar against a 1/2 one is chalk and cheese. You will need a few 3/4 sockets, as (IMHO) using 3/4 through a 1/2 adapter is a waste of time on really tight stuff. That said, a decent 1/2 impact socket with an air wrench gives a lot of power, and usually is as good as the 3/4 if you can get the access.

If it were mine, a lot depends on how many miles its done. If it was say 50,000 then I would guess something drastic had happened to it like a previous owner having a water leak and seriously overheating it, whereby a skimmed head and bolts etc would be wise. Whereas if it had done say 250,000, its more likely that the gaskets worn out or been eaten away by the anti freeze (or lack of)/combustion gases and whilst the head may still need to be skimmed, the rest may be more salvageable. In any case a new belt, idlers and water pump would be a prudent move, and (as said above) you will need cam/crank locks.

As you're having a Garage do the work for you, and they're not finding/curing the issue, then you need to complain and/or find another Garage, ideally one where you can go down the road with the mechanic and point out the problem (assuming that he hadn't found it himself). Sorry, but if by describing it to a competent garage they can't resolve it for you, it is unlikely it can be done third hand on here.

Considering an average GV4 is getting on for 15 years old, and likely to have done in excess of 120,000, I don't think they are particularly any less reliable/more subject to wear than most other brands. Certainly my 'Stow n Go' is so useful I'll really miss it when its time for it to go.

Many thanks for the responses. Buying from the USA (or Europe) could be/will be cheaper than from here, and I have bought bits from Rockauto before for other cars and found them to be excellant suppliers. That is unless Brit644 wants to put a pair in his case . I was hoping for someone who had done exactly the same before to say what part numbers were needed, and where they got them from to stop any mistakes. In the meantime I'll do some more homework on them.

Curious response as I have genuine Chrysler side steps on my stow n go. I know they're genuine because I needed one of the end caps when I bought mine (in 2014) and the Chrysler main dealer (Swindon ?) wanted an arm and two legs for just one side. Fortunately I ended up finding one on eBay,

Does any kind soul know if the standard UK, left dip type Headlights, can be adjusted to be right hand dip for driving on the Continent ? Yes, I know you can get stick on patches to diffuse the pattern, but I want something more permanent, and if the standard ones can't be adjusted/converted, then I'll have to look for a used pair from the EU or USA. Ta.

Well, had it been a bit warmer I would have changed the Actuator already, but as it's still working (other than the loud buzzing ), I've put that job off for a few weeks until it gets warmer, that is unless it gets a lot worse and starts to stop locking/unlocking . However, the text on how to take it apart was gratefully received.

Not wishing to hijack your post , but this sounds exactly like what I have only that mine does work, but with a very loud buzzing sound from within the door. Anyway, the link to the new actuator is dead, but I see that there is this also on eBay https://www.ebay.co.uk/sch/i.html?_odkw=eBay+item+number%3A382283110528&_osacat=131090&_from=R40&_trksid=m570.l1313&_nkw=382283110528&_sacat=131090which seems to be the same. Any pointers on getting the Door Card off would be gratefully received.

I'm sure I was a member on here until my email went Fubar, and to get back I've had to register again, but in any case I'm on here now.