maxcaddy

If you mean the Clutch end/coupling plate then I seem to recall that it's a standard 6mm thread hex head. The end plate is splined to the centre shaft so the bolt doesn't need to hold much on. However if you're taking the Pulley off then I don't know.

Good luck , it'll certainly keep you from being bored during lockdown .

Btw some liners are made proud and need to be machined flat to the block, which means further cost/heartache ?.

Sorry, got to ask, are you sure it's worth all the effort/cost, and that another engine / or car wouldn't be a better option ?

Presumably you could hotwire it straight off the battery, with an inline fuse for protection against spikes ?

If you're going to change the water pump (a sensible move if you're stripping it down that much) I can't see how you can retime the engine without camlocks unless you take the cam cover off and do it from first principles with protractors etc. The issue is when I did mine I never intend to use cam locks, especially as I've never had to before. So as usual I centre punched marks onto the cam gears, crankshaft pulley, cases, etc etc. However on undoing the cam gears (which you have to do to change the pump) you'll find that the gears are (bizarrely) not key'd or splined onto the cams, they're just held there by the taper. Consequently they spin, and there's no means of re-aligning them without locking the cams in relation to the crank, which then makes a straight forward job into a rights pig's ear. Btw, as it's a common rail diesel you don't have to time the pump to the cams. The pump output is constant, and the injection sequence is not governed by the alignment/timing of the pump to the cams.

Welcome, as you'll hear from a few folk on here, a number of GV's have now got to the end of their life, whereby they become a constant stream of repairs and new parts. However that isn't to say yours falls into that category, but watch out especially as you say that you 'got it for a very good price' which could mean that the previous owner was only too glad to get rid of it, as it was becoming a liability. Logically your first point of call is going back to the garage who fixed it for you, as it clearly wasn't 'fully fixed'. The fault codes will tell if there's an obvious problem, and air in the system is always a possibility.

In the past if you stuck something in a garage/barn for 40 years it would suddenly become rare and valuable, if it were actually worth something in the first place, it could then be worth quite a lot , and receive rose coloured praises from writers who actually never drove one in the first place. That said, I'm not sure how vehicles of today will fair in the future especially if say in another 40 years there's no such thing as petrol/diesel, or that if there is, it would be absolutely horrendous cost per litre. A while ago I bought a Ford Explorer and had it converted to LPG, it drove superbly was extremely reliable and did everything and more that a full size 4x4 could be expected to do. After 9 years and 80,000 the timing chain broke and ruined the engine (and people worry about timing belts). I could of rebuilt the engine, but at that age and mileage it really wasn't worth it, so it went to the great recycler in the sky, mainly because there were many 4x4 alternatives around, most giving as much performance and better economy that an old 'exploder'. However for me the point is that I'm unaware of any suitable replacement for my Stow n Go (as and when it gives up the ghost), hence I will keep mine going as long as is practicable. When it does die I'm not sure what its replacement will be, and I can't really think of any new or vintage which could even come close to it. What else can be used as a large comfortable car one minute, a van the next, and take a full load on a 600 mile trip at 80mph and still touch 30mpg ? 40 years ago you didn't worry much about car electrics as the bodywork was going to rust away long before that ever become a problem

Cheers, good link , I do often forget Youtube as its often more full of someone's half capable spiel, rather than good pointers. However this fella seemed to show what's needed. Seems exceptionally straight forward other than dealing with rusted bolts, but I do need to have another look at mine (when its not quite so cold & damp), because it seemed to me that the bush was captive in the alloy crossmember, and not sandwiched between the crossmember and the subframe. Fortunately its MoT time in a few weeks, so I'll see what they say as I might have to change other parts while I'm underneath .

Not sure if you've still got the car, it being 2 months later, but at 108K you should have a year or 2 left in it. However as you rightly say (and I'm at a similar place with mine) there is a point when spending more money on it has to stop. That said, being the sceptic I am, my first thought is ....is the garage you used reliable ?, or did they say just that there was a bigger problem because they were unable to solve a simpler one ?. My suggestion is twofold, 1, if I were in any way suspicious of the accuracy/integrity of the garage I used, I would have it checked again by another garage to confirm. And/or 2, depending on cost, try a different ABS Module/pump based on seeing on the eBay picture as to whether or not it looked identical. Point to note, In the past I've been very successful in buying parts for unusual car base on assessing the advertise picture(s), and only had a problem when the picture wasn't actually of the part being sold !!! Good luck.

Yep, that could certainly be the case , but unfortunately I'm now of the mindset that whilst I am happy to pay to keep the old girl ticking over, tyres, brakes etc, I don't intend to spend any real money on her unless absolutely necessary. Consequently at the moment (especially with Covid limited use), connecting/disconnecting the battery is the easiest option .

Unfortunately, when jacking it up today to change the front ABS sensors, I spotted that the front nearside bottom wishbone mountings are starting to wear out . By which I mean the bushes which are fitted into the big aluminium cross member, the member to which the front subframe mounts underneath, and the top of it bolts to the body,. There are the location bushes for the ends of the bottom wishbone/suspension arm/lower control arm (or whatever you know it as) which seem to be on there way out. Assuming this is something that does happen to old V'gers, anybody on here done them, or got a view ? Cheers .

"I cannot work out how to remove the rubber intake pipe to the turbo , looks like its bolted under the thermostat housing but I cant see or get to the bolt". Yep, seem to remember that was the same prob for me when I changed the Thermostat, and I was also concerned with breaking the Turbo pipe, so seem to think its a captive bolt on the T'sat side, and that I broke the fitting off of the T'sat by bashing/drilling it. Although another part of the brain says I took the T'sat off with the turbo pipe attached. Although it was only a year ago, the grey matter is letting me down, but, it does come off/apart, so persevere (carefully). It was certainly a bitch of a job to get yer fingers in there. It will come apart and at that point I would look carefully at what the head and block look like as you could be throwing good money after bad. ​Another thought is, maybe undo the head and take it off complete with manifolds etc attached, and then separate it afterwards ?? Good luck

Buy/get yourself a small MIG welding set and you'll keep the Maxi running forever.

When I wanted one of the plastic ends for mine ~7 years ago Chrysler quoted over £200 a side, and wouldn't sell the ends separately. I ended up finding a whole side on eBay, getting the seller to take the ends off to post to me, and he ditched the rest. I would start by ringing around those on eBay who are breaking them.

See what others are getting for theirs for on eBay etc, not what people are asking for, and you'll have a good idea. Use one of the 'we buy any car' sites, and you'll know what the bare minimum price would be.

At 13 years old and 102K, you need to look out for any and everything electrical misbehaving typically the sliding Doors and flat battery/starting. Overheating and underheating/Thermostat issues are likely, and front ABS brake sensors seem venerable, otherwise its much the same as any thing else of that age and mileage. Unfortunately what's not gone wrong yet, will go wrong soon , and if your not handy with spanners, it's going to cost dearly. Mine's the same age, 20K more miles, and I've had it 6 years & 65K of relative great use out of it, but it has now reached the time when anything expensive going wrong will mean a sad trip to the knackers yard.

If you've just bought it, just be grateful for what does work, and don't waste hours trying to cure what well maybe incurable. Or, take it back and complain . In my 7 years of GV ownership bit by bit the electric/electronics have failed and are failing, as and when it's something that causes an MoT failure it'll have to go to the big GV car park in the sky I'll be sad to see that day as the Stow n Go has to be one of the best features any manufacturer has come up with, and no one else seems to want or be able to copy it. Getting back to the seat, if it can't be fixed easily, the lack of a heated bum is not the end of the world, say compared to a rear door that keeps closing come what may, or a side door that keeps opening all of its own accord .

Is it that it's worked before for 'n' years and now it's not working, or, that you've just bought the car and found that it doesn't work/maybe never worked for 'n' years ?

As no one has said anything else, I'll offer these few words of advice................ When my handbrake shoes needed replacing (worn out by a previous owner, as I only ever leave it in 'P'), I immediately thought OK I'll do it. I bought new shoes, clips etc and took the wheel off to discover trying to work inside the hub was nigh on impossible. So conceding defeat I took it to a local place that does my MoTs but also specialises campervans, and got them to do it for me. Apparently it was a complete bitch of a job, and they had to take the rear hubs off to gain access, which even then was difficult. Therefore, I can't advise on the socket size, but if you need it undone because of doing the handbrake, then you might want to think about letting a garage do it to save you heartache, and your fingers .

Okay you've replaced the bearing & hub, but with new quality items, cheap replacement items, or a 'good' secondhand unit ?. In the (distant) past I've bought cheap Land Rover parts made in India which were as bad as what I took off. That said, the bearing should 'do the same thing' whether its loaded to the left or right. Is it something bizarre going on like the brake shield rubbing as the alignment distorts ? If you can SAFELY get the front up into the air with both wheels clear of the ground, try running in gear with someone on the steering wheel while you listen/look at the wheel turning. Did that many moons ago on a Granada and you could see the wheel jumping once it hit a few mph whereas on a static test the bearing seemed fine.

As usual, after doing it twice, its not done it again . Seems to be the story nowadays where it does odd things just to worry/p*ss me off. If it weren't so useful, and if there was a similar vehicle with stow and go, it would be traded in .

Another electrical gremlin has arisen . About a week or so ago it started up okay, I pressed the arm to wet the windscreen to clear it, and whilst the wipers moved nothing came out of the jets. Knowing that there was enough fluid I tried a couple of times and all that happened was the wipers moving and no washers. As I had to be somewhere I drove it for about 10 miles. When I started it up to come home I pressed the arm again, and lo and behold, the washer jets worked. Yesterday the exact same thing happened again. The Washers wouldn't work first time around but happily worked after a 15 mile drive. Bizarre or what . So, there's I can't see any obvious fault/fuse/wiring issue, maybe a bad connection on the stalk or at the pump, but I'm now left with an unreliable Washer system which no doubt will chose to mess about at the next MoT .

I fitted one about 5 years ago so can't remember exact details other than I used a standard 7N (or S, whichever isn't the caravan electrics) and scotch-locked onto the existing rear wiring with no bypass. Never had any warning lights, and I'm not even sure it has a bulb failure circuit.

When's the MOT due, as I would stick it in for a new one and hear what they had to say re what's worn and knackered, vie what's worn but acceptable.