maxcaddy

Well not surprisingly it failed, but only on the N/S track rod end. I wouldn't mind but I changed them about 3 years/25,000 miles ago, and at the time didn't buy cheap and nasty eBay items, more like average cost ones . Anyway fail one did, so a pair from Jeepchryslerparts are on order. There were a few advisories especially with the tyres, but hey for 130,000 miles and 15 years, it could have been far worse Enthused with the potential success, I'll put 4 tyres on it, retest, and maybe get another year of life out of the old girl .

In lieu of any response on here, it could be worth trying one of the 'Jeep' sites as one of their models uses the same engine, and being a jeep, it's possible that someone has changed theirs and knows how to do it. Okay the engine's turned 90 deg but surely the Crank sensor is in the same place?

Another fine day today, and another problem solved . The offside light unit which not been working ended up being solely because the connector at the back of it wasn't pushed fully home . I've had the light out before, last time about 3 years ago when replacing the Radiator, but amazingly the light has worked since then until now. Anyway a splash of electrical contact cleaner, and it's all back in place and working fine. Next step is to renew the MoT which actually isn't due until March, but as the old girl needs a set of boots, I need to know that there's nothing else of serious note going to go wrong before investing in a new set. Who knows, perhaps it'll end up living for another year

Okay half the problem fixed . The standard Aux drive belt is a 6PK1420. If you bypass the Aircon Compressor and the idler pulley above it, a 6PK1290 belt works but there is only 6mm clearance between the run of the belts, and at tickover they just kiss together. Using a 6PK1275 belt gives 22mm clearance between the runs, and other than being tight to squeeze on works fine. So instead of having to buy another compressor just to be 'in circuit' for £40 I have a working solution, which if I had been more luckier/accurate would have only been £20. If I had to do it again or if someone else has the problem, then I would suggest using a 6PK1280 belt which will give adequate clearance. and be a shade easier to fit. The hardest part of the job is taking off (& putting on) the 'elasticated' power steering belt which when working in the drive, in January, wasn't the easiest of tasks, but competed satisfactorily all the same . Now to look at why the lights pack up...............

Many thanks for that . Can I assume that the FCU is hidden behind the Headlight ?, if not, how do you get to it ? I'm thinking that maybe a bit off of the Aircon pulley could have hit it . Got my shortened belt (6PK1290) only to find that it's just a gnats too long, whereby it travels too close to the return side, and at tickover the two parts of the belt just kiss together. A few revs and its fine, but it will eat itself away in traffic so a shorter belt (1280) is required. These things a year or so ago were £12-15, now they're £20-25 .

Well after thinking that I had seized/stuffed Alternator bearings, the weather cleared today and I had a delve under the bonnet to discover that the Alternator was in fact fine, but the Aircon pump was seized solid. Haven't yet worked out why its solid as the drive to it is via a magnetic coupling, but seized solid it is. So, it looked like the easy fix was to bypass the pump and the idler wheel, and use a shorter drive belt running just the crank, tensioner, and Alternator. Shorter belt now ordered, and hopefully ready for collection tomorrow, fingers crossed. At the same time as the belt issue above happened, the offside Headlight unit also completely stopped working. A quick look in the fuse box next to the battery didn't seem to have any fuses or relays for the lights ?, so there must be a secondary fuse box hidden somewhere ? (answers gratefully received). Hopefully the old girl isn't dead yet, but certainly under very critical assessment.

Not meeting the spec, and your local MoT man failing it, can be two different things. For example, the test requirement for being able to lower your headlamp beams (levelling devices) when you have a load on (4.1.5), was also introduced, but my local place certainly never tested it this year as one of my car has a seized adjuster. In any case on reading the requirement it says it's only to be tested if you have such a function. In other words they would have to know that the bulbs were the wrong ones before failing it, and as long as they work and the dip pattern is alright, they might not look any further. Not sure what bulbs you're using, but there is a big difference between cheap eBay bulbs and genuine Osrams in both pattern and strength. Cleaning and polishing the lens with lens cleaner may also show an improvement.

I cured my battery drain problem by fitting a small ebay device on the battery terminal whereby you unscrew a little handwheel on it to break the circuit. Remember to leave the drivers door open when you 'lock' the doors, and when you've unscrewed the terminal then shut the (already locked) driver's door otherwise it can set the alarm off as soon as the battery is unscrewed. It's a pain to do everytime you stop for the night and start the next day or so, but, it does stop the battery drain . Re the Alarm, sorry but can't add anything else. Similarly mines had a hissy fit going up to Manchester for Xmas and is making such a noise from the engine (like having no meat left on the pads when braking) that it might not get home in the New Year on its own. Added to the Radio started working (after 3 years of turning itself off after 5 mins) which was short lived as the whole drivers side light cluster is now not working at all. MoT due February, needs 4 tyres, 99% certain it's going to be scrapped . Just annoying that used prices are at a premium at the moment, and 2nd hand cars going for more than they cost 2 years ago, with 2 years more wear and tear on them . So far not a happy Xmas

I believe the alarm horn is a separate unit to the main horns ?. If so, and if you can find where it is, simply cut the wires to it. The flashers keeping going isn't such a pain. If you do find exactly where it is please post on here, as I get that now and then and will happily cut mine. I don't care if it makes it more stealable, or that the insurance might not like it. What self respecting toe rag is going to steal a 15 year old V'ger ? Other than that perhaps there's an alarm fault code that could be read ?, or visit an auto electrician, or live with it. Even with the elevated 2nd hand value of cars at the moment, an old V'ger with issues isn't worth very much at all .

First of all I have to ask what does "no one can find the cause" actually mean ?. If the full resources of a competent Garage with expertise on GVs can't tell you what's gone wrong, then the chances of someone on here offering a workable solution, will be very remote. Conversely if the guy next door whose only ever owned new Nissans hasn't got a clue, then here's a thought or two . If you have a code reader, then the onboard diagnosis system should tell you what's wrong, but you'll need to use a reader that has the optional ABS program (or a garage which has one), as well as the standard diagnosis. That said, a very common failure mode is one of the front ABS sensors. They've failed twice on mine (in 8 years) and I found that it was easier to order both off of eBay ~ £30-40, than to guess which one it was. If it's not one of those, it could be the rear sensors or a more indepth ABS module issue, which on a 2006 V'ger is probably the death knell .

Most likely sounds like an internal Gearbox problem. Key question is how many miles has it done and how good has the servicing been i.e has the Gear oil ever been changed ?.

Guess you put this in the wrong section However, with a stuffed g/Box (especially after 240K) it most certainly isn't worth more than its scrap value . Which may be very unpalatable, but is a fact. A recon box nowadays has to be £2K+ fitted, and rebuilding your own will cost you £££s in heartache, labour, parts, and skinned knuckles. On the other hand you'd be lucky to (actually) get more than £500 selling privately, with that age and mileage. All very sad really, but there you go........

That's got to be the easy fix, otherwise it could anything, and in the worse case maybe something in the ABS system .

Unfortunately you don't say how many miles it's done, which would be a good indicator as to whether or not it's even worth the cost of changing the oil . If say we're talking 150 - 175K, then maybe an oil change and filter will save the box. If it's more than say 200K you'll be very lucky IMHO. If you only bought it 2 weeks ago it is unbelievable that the previous owner didn't know there was a problem, and as such sold you a dud. A few words need to be exchanged.

If there is any wear in the suspension setup at all the tracking will only be based on where the car has settled. for instance a worn track rod will give different reading depending on how it's at rest. Obviously a respectable/honest outfit would say to you that there was wear, and that they couldn't guarantee the setting, but in my experience such places are nowadays few and far between, and if the name starts with 'Kwik anything' be very beware..........

Despite 'Hook's Law', springs do wear and matching a worn one with something similar should 'balance' the car far better than a new one, although not as good as 2 new ones would .

Excluding issues with the brake servo, which I (fortunately) haven't had to touch, so consequently I have no knowledge of what's what in that department. In my case having the ABS warning light on and TRAC off were specifically associated with the ABS wheel sensor(s). ABS issues are not always straightforward, but are usually associated with a few typical failures, and crap discs, crap/clogged relucters, and front brake sensors are the most likely. That said, the rear sensors, and a shed load of other problems are not impossible. Again in my case, I had a ABS failure light about 4 years ago, I replaced one tatty looking front sensor which made no difference, then replace a perfectly good looking sensor to have the problem magically resolve itself. This year a light came on I immediately order both front sensors (about £30 off of eBay) and the lights gone out. Okay maybe overkill, but you don't need yer GV in the garage for too long to have a bill far greater than what its worth.

I too had serious overheating issues in the past, which I thought I had sorted by fitting a new Thermostat at first, and then a new Radiator. All worked well for 2 years with the needle only going past centre when either really booting it, or on a long hill on a hot summers day, until this week Currently I'm on holiday in the south west of France, and thought we'd pop over to Spain for a few hours. I've done this before by going to Vielha which is a bit hilly but not too bad. This time I thought I'd go through the Aragnouet/Bielsa Tunnel. However what I didn't know was that the Tunnel entrance is at 5,920ft (according to the wife's Iphone) and by the time the old girl (Voyager not the wife) got up there, the temp gauge was near vertical with bells ringing and the Oil pressure light on . Fortunately there is restrictive traffic through the Tunnel and waiting 5 mins for a green light gave the engine enough time to cool down. On the Spanish side the road is more forgiving but even still by the time I was back up at the Tunnel entrance on that side, the gauge was also near kissing the limit. Fortunately coming out on the French side was straight into a rainstorm so the rest of the journey was uneventful. The car seems to be running okay despite its 'cooking', with the Temp gauge just as it was before, but time will tell if it makes it back to Blighty. Moral of the story is that on an old Voyager don't put it in a position where it could get excessively hot, and trying to fault find what can be done (other than the obvious fixes) to stop overheating, will be a time consuming and expensive business.

Okay, not whishing to hijack this post as my knowledge of Alternators is next to zero other than many years ago I had a doggy Alternator tested in a 'Lucas' test shop to say it was the 'Diode' ? which was only a 1/3rd of the cost of a new one. Which I then bought and fitted (2 wires) for it then not to work and the shop say that something else was wrong, which couldn't have been diagnosed until the Diode fault had been cleared. Consequently from that day on, whenever it arose I have simply replace a dodgy one with a new/rebuilt one, and while I haven't change my GV one, it looks to be a very straightforward job. That said, my GV does have an Alternator fault whereby the battery drains after about 3 days which I think is a 'leak' through the Alternator. My solution was to buy a Battery terminal isolator for a few £s off of eBay, which other than the slight inconvenience has worked well for nearly 2 years So onto RichardM's issue, when I say pump's output, it's the 'Injection System I'm talking about, inasmuch as it's common rail diesel CRD implying that the 'injection system' is always pressurised ready for each injector to fire. If the system is not pressurising it's either the common rail (high) pressure pump letting by or the lift pump letting by (could be same pump) (I'm not that knowledgeable). Or, it's allowing/letting in air when at rest, which then needs purging on starting from such as a fuel rail leak, or leaky (perished) feedbacks from the Injectors, or leaky filter, etc. There is also a bizarre fault mode (on some cars) whereby it messes about starting depending on whether you have the car facing uphill or downhill . Other indications of fuel delivery issues are how well its running and (especially) for starting how much and what smoke comes out the back, although in your case the easystart will make that diagnosis difficult .

£1000 ouch, ouch, ouch, that would be enough to have mine be on it's way to the great scrappy in the sky Surely as they are a popular engine for many models, especially campervans, there will be some local 'diesel' expert who can check your pumps output as a first step .

Even if the bore were different it would only be marginal, and make little to no noticeable difference to performance unless you were racing, and if you were, you'd need a few more things to worry about than the exhaust size. However, not sure if 2.5s were Stow n Go, and if not the routing could be different, as could the bracketry. I would have thought that there were now more than enough 2.8s been broken, that finding a correct fitting exhaust would be a safer bet.

Mine is also black and blue, but only for a short time before it turns itself off. If yours works, think yourself lucky irrespective of colour

Chrysler dealers died out about 3 years ago, good luck finding one who will sort out your woes

Many moons ago I bought a basic fault code reader off of Amazon Autel MaxiScan MS309 Universal OBD2 Scanner Car Diagnostic Scan Tool Vehicle Engine Fault Code Reader : Amazon.co.uk: Automotive which worked remarkedly well on simple tasks. It's cleared issues on an SLK and a FIAT which I had. Can't say that it will solve your problems, but compared to taking it to a garage for them to do pretty much the same (unless they were a main agent with main agent software) it could help.

Okay, a bit late as I only look in occasionally, but when I did mine I didn't change the pump because there was no play in the shaft whatsoever. That said I was glad as getting to it looked difficult, and you might have to undo the engine mounts to get the engine moved enough to get good access. Presumably by now you've done the job, so hopefully it all went back together okay