brit644

I changed mine...also found the egr solenoid was goosed I bought mine when in the States last [actually brought 3 back as dealers here didnt have them] ...Depending on vehicle [buy by vin NOT reg] have a new spare solenoid. There are ways to disconnect this or bypass that etc..dont bother..change.

Thanks for all the notes. Have been shy of getting into it..rain. Bit of a wuz playing with electrics while being showered from above. Have been using a battery pack last few days. The down time has given space to gather tools etc. Multi meter [20amp] has just arrived. From monday weather is better so will get at it. Decided to do full leak test, I know the IOD will have the known continuous use items on there but thought to test for other leaks then pull each fuse to find source. Appears to be correct, battery at 90%....especially at 40deg or below where it shrugs the shoulders and says nah not going to start. I did try and purchase a 800 crank amp bat but as someone pointed out terminals. I chickened and bought the 650. Its weird. I have a vehicle in the USA with a 7.4l engine [454 c.in] with 750 crank amp. At 22 deg c below it fires first crank..after a month of non use. Have to admit tho I change to winter oil, from 50 weight summer to 5/30 winter..Course its 15 quid a a gal.

New [500 mile] Lucas battery, new alternator and belts all round. If I dont drive every day..or miss a day theres not enough to start the car [2.8 cd] although turns over quite well. To be honest only do maybe 100 miles per week. Local garage tells me not driving enough. Course I had to be clever bugger and pulled out the owners manual and asked show me where it says you have to drive every day. I have all interior lights etc on permanent off. Nothing plugged in either, Did notice maybe 5 weeks ago left the doors open for 90 mins while carpet cleaning [interior lights off] resulting in low battery level. Had battery checked and all good, alternator is just about 14a I have a bat pack, connect and starts first crank. The vehicle runs extremely well, have to say love the many pluses and ride of the car.. Tks

I have the stow n go spare tire stowaway...under the front seats] Appears all the variants of this system have problems. Mine has the two safety hooks which would not release. Had to borrow an m.o.t pit and use a 2ft bar to gain access between the tire casing and body floor, after managing a 3'' drop just enough to see the hooks and depress them allowing me to winch down. . The hooks will work by hand only, Before I part the two halves does anyone know if there is a spring within?

Yes..As mentioned you need to give vin# to get correct part..not reg. Post Aug they changed to comply with euro regs [mine was made in Austria] so the sensor was added. Mine was stuck 2/3 rds shut. The sensor is 30 quid..correct therm is about 100..but yuou need to pre-order as these are not made anymore and are sourced from the usa. I changed the rad also. Once I did full flush found a pin hole in the rad Mine had touched red couple times on hills so bit worrying as assume affects oil. Hence the change of everthing Have couple of 20% hills near me so tested after the changes..severely. .Didnt move off the just below mid mark..This is all maybe month back and actually runs better than ever The therm is a pig, my advice change whatever you can whilst in there.

Any idea on part# and/or source for late 2007 gv navigation disc [bought the car with it missing] Thanks in advance K

I got one for 2.8 from a guy in sheffield [on ebay..only does alternators] 65 inc [big amp one] ship and return label for exchange

Strangely some faults show on key dance yet not on diagnostics...My mechanic didnt believe me..Mine was egr solenoid short on key dance..nothing on diagnostics. Changed it...fine. Clear the code..press trip

They change the therm to comply with euro regs mid 2007. Post then its a sensore'd one. The reg number will throw a part that is wrong..you need the vin The thermostat is not made anymore. I sourced mine from a guy that imports from USA..he gets maybe 2 per week theyre that hard to find. It was 100 quid plus 30 for the sensor that is sold separately..buy it..unless you can reliably check the sensor is crap..even then for 30 quid its worth doing as the therm install is a pig. If you use without you need to re-map. Mine..because of the sensor, was stuck 2/3rds shut...not open as default on those without. I changed everything, rad, egr valve, egr solenoid etc, [ btw...between engine and firewall theres a lead thats part of the egr system..mine was disconnected..you wouldnt know as you cant see it at all] shocks, rear shock bushes, belts, oil hubs etc etc etc. The front of the vehicle has to come off so did everything. Im lucky in that my garage lets me bring my parts..which I source USA, I paid 800 quid labour only plus liquids

Could go on forever about these probs. Included would be scanner and key dance diagnostics [both throw wobblers at you] Had help from a friend in the USA who looks up using vin, also pointed me to a guy in the UK so could use them as an alternative source. Do not buy anything unless using your vin. Three occasions reg# has pointed in the wrong direction, which would have had serious consequences, Im lucky in that my local mechanic allows me to find/purchase parts [dealer rad was 400...i paid 88] for him to install. We all have old vehciles, most parts are original. After playing with mine I decided to 'shotgun' on parts. I bought front shocks [complete] rear shocks bushes, rad, thermo and sensor, egr valve and egr solenoid [that was 8 quid from usa dealer] and alternator. All this for under 500 Labour on installing all this was 490 plus fluids. Last year I had both front hubs replaced, I sourced and they installed for 100 quid. The water pump [clue here] and timing was done just prior to my purchase [100 miles] When I tested the vehicle it was fine and I bought. Howvere the first really steep incline into the red it went. The clue here is the guy must have had probs, someone had the idea water pump and timing etc. They obviously had a rad prob they didnt notice/resolve. So I come in on the back-end of this, and having read this forum decided to flush. Flushed well to clean. However, if the crude is solid makes no difference. I figure they put a sealer in there. Getting home after the flush noticed a leak [the leak was clean coolant]. Back at the garage straight away [meanwhile took the step of ordering everything could possibly need] Parts arrived morning after. Rad out, twas so bad couldnt blow thru it hardly, pin holes in a few places. Thermo gummed up to point it was stuck with crude, thermo sensor was goosed to. They are old vehicles, theres inherent problems. Often they have the original parts, often quick fixes are just put me on [bucket under a leaking roof not fixing the roof] You put new part in which then puts pressure on another thats dozen yrs old. I look at keeping this thing for 10yrs or more, thats how I view my purchases. I work in the USA quite a bit [im a aid/disaster relief worker] 20 yrs ago I bought a truck. That vehcile has 440k miles. Maintenance of highest order ,means it has the original engine/transmission.Dont let a tiny wiggle become a wobble.

Had trouble with both the above. Did all the usual [take out clean egr, plus flush rad] neither worked. Decided to spend and buy all. Arranged with my local garage to have it worked on there, and for me to watch. They exchanged the egr, that code disappeared, but code for the egr solenoid appeared, change that...Both codes came back. Flushed rad, filthy of course. Took up a 20% hill and over heated immediately. Stripped that out put new rad in [old was so crudded up it was solid, so much so developed a small leak] Thermostat replacement. next A pig..a real pig. Luckily I had found this thermo has a separate temp sensor attached] used vin to get this as reg gave a different part number..remember this [most dont, appears late 2007 on for emissions.. for one year it seems] The thermostat with sensor does not stay open as default when busted, it was 2/3rds shut. .So, with new rad it still overheated. New thermo along with the rad and its fine. But heres the thing, without having to check on the egr codes [which prior to thermo replacement were still there] disappeared. I called a friend in the USA who tells that the sensore'd thermo makes that part of emissions linked to egr. And without properly functioning thermo/ egr wont function either This is just a heads up. Having gone around in circles with both problems.forever. Oh btw. Stuck between the engine and firewall theres a connection thats linked to egr, mechanic traced it back and told me at the time, you would never know its there unless you were in the belly of the beast..behind the engine. Moral of the tale. You can cure one or tuther but unless both are dealt with neither function. Caveat tho. This is for the thermo with sensor, without the sensor I have no idea. ps...Was also told, if thermo without the sensor is used [wrongly] the comp etc has to be re-mapped

Thanks for that Told guy at my usual mot spot [great place] He had seen it has I had the vehicle it lifted in, [speed bump had the shock rip thru the upper downwards..literally, pop thru the coil and and wedge into the fitting/surround. Made taking it out awkward as the spring isnt fixed. [watched him..it went twang..at which point I left] Called me 40 mins later with both shocks replaced and in place...He said wasnt such a big deal. He said his tools were very old very heavy duty, non of the modern monkey metal stuff. [his plan b was to lower the four poster down to compress but didnt need it] Maybe he's pretty good. Took him 90 mins to put 4 new bushes in the rear shocks plus new egr valve and egr solenoid. However, he couldnt solve overheating on hill's, did a full flush etc etc, still overheats. We've now found the thermostat on that vehicle has a sensor attached, appears they changed for that particular late model year for emission's. Waiting for one being shipped from USA [Chrysler dont make them anymore] We think its mixed up being with Fiat...What now with Renault deal happening lol

While had my 2007 in for mot had the front shocks and rear bushes done. Decided to have rad flushed as have never solved the heating on steep hills . Even after full flush havent seen any change [have to put full heat/blower on to mitigate somewhat] Decided to inquire re thermostat not opening. Found my particular vehicle [even tho not generally listed] was in the mid change year. The thermo has a sensor and slightly different unit [confirmed with Chrysler US plus excellent guy at Cyrsler/jeep parts uk] Appears the unit was changed back half of 2007 to meet emission regs. These units are very difficult to get, Chrysler dont supply anymore, guy Im getting one from has a backlog of orders for the unit. Could be [according to him] just the sensor is at fault...but whilst in there prudent to do both. r

2.8 stow n go auto. MOT due this week, just had a pre inspection [give me time to get needs in as I heard some rattling, thought maybe bearing as just had both front hubs replaced] My mechanic tells me both top bushes gone. Is it worth just getting new shocks while he's in there. Heard they're a pig...which I mentioned. 'We do the big Transits so pretty sure wont be a problem'...??? Thanks Keith

Interesting. Mod...so take the original out? Is default open or closed on OEM in malfunction operation Incidentally I read somewhere importance of HOAT?...Wouldnt water-less coolant be an option Take for granted mod is some generic type? Tks for the info btw

You're not alone, have exactly the same Had a new water pump/timing etc done, thought all was fine, drove to Spain and all was good til the long hills. Actually went red and down to 30mph, cooled immediately on the declines. Was a nervous drive both ways. Drives great til hills [have a few at 15% and over where I am] Have a feeling they didnt flush mine, chocolate coloured in expansion tank. May check if theres an up-rated rad on the market Will let ya know If I sort it.

Thanks for the pointers guys...Checked, some of the OEM'S are 300 upwards, tis why I mentioned bearings. Actually twas the AA man [got me going on a false p1685 code] I thought I noticed a shudder, he got his long screwdriver out and listened. Asked me if it had been stood [yep 5 months] thinks the bearing has a flat spot

Have a 2007 Stow N Go...pretty sure bearing on the way out..Anybody one repaired..or source for new at decent price [seen a few used out there frying pan to fire fears] Tks in advance Keith

Heads up but sure others have encountered this Couldnt start vehicle [2007 stow n go] turn key and nothing. Was in public car park. Strange as had just popped t shop and all was good on leaving. Key dance, p1685, did the usual work around's [disconnect and foot on brake etc etc] nothing. Called AA [btw had both keys with me.....neither worked although alarms would set] He connected diagnostics with same result. He had an idea starter motor link. He jumped across and it started. He found a seperate lead/sensor leading back to dash, took it off, cleaned it and bingo started first time and each time since. Appears the lead is part of the skim system somehow [disabling] Sat there waiting was for him to arrive contemplating/concerned about having to main dealer it and get new keys and re program. Saved by a great AA man and his assumption nothing wrong with keys and merely some dirty or non working link/sensor in the system.

Had to get the AA out, they have a reader that connects wireless to their van, everything came up, he cleared codes that I couldnt, they stayed cleared [going to post on it today as its about p1685]

May be wrong but someone mentioned while back engines/computers are 'paired'...also something about re-programming

Know what ya mean...Think the complete strut/spring assembly is $58

Go to Chrysler HQ [usa]...pick a town/dealer [dont share your location in search] call or write them with vin. Ive done it a few times..Remember, they do the VM engine in the usa [jeep] ....It is fiat/chrysler]

Amazon is always cheapest for shipping. Often when Im in UK I use USA Amazon to ship to daughter in Spain..its still cheaper than Amazon sp. If the town is a customs hub [airport gateway] is usually less also. One trick, find a supplier and airport to match. Like I use Denver [amazon has customs free zone and major hub] Has direct to Heathrow... Denver/Boulder are major auto store towns also. Plus you can check UPS, USPS and FEDEX from where you sit...Volume is the key not weight most of the time..and speed...also specialists shippers.. I had a road bike shipped direct to home [Wales] in full bike box [20kg]...$170... 4 days by fedex....The shipper had great deals. Also he saves by e-mailing you paperwork and you fill in and return. Its a little different for me of course. I use to ship containers years ago across the pond ...then a 40ft door to door was 2000 quid...full or 40 ton. If ya can make a pallet with mates then LDL... [less than a load] is cheap too.

Tip. Go on yahoo.com not any co.uk... I live half year in each country [uk, usa] have a 2007 stow n go [in uk] . Here its a chrysler town n country, or dodge caravan and others. So, use usa search engines....or twill always preference uk results. [Or ebay select usa only] Source oem first then look for generic once you have part # to cross reference...Eg..the rear expensive shocks with the fancy name [nivomat] are also made by Monroe..exactly the same. [i cut n pasted a comment by monroe saying just that in answer to a query] Dont want to influence but the rock place is considered not cheap here, looks so but load up on shipping..usually ending 30% more. Just other day I bought egr solenoid..[couldnt get uk] from main dealer...15 quid..bought 4....... Hey we all have our ways of getting around and sourcing..Tis just the way I do it.