brit644
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Everything posted by brit644
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Tks for the note. Couple years ago had the egr code...blanked for quick fix then went to USA for work. Bought egr solenoid [actually bought 5 as very cheap from dealer] as had a code for the solenoid too. Changed therm, egr itself, rad and anything on the way in as therms are a big rip out to get to. Car's run great since. However month ago fumes in cab, initially thought maybe webasto, digging in found egr pipe cracked around flanged joint. Noticed at this point smoke out the rear. Not sure how long it had been there as was disguised by the cracked egr pipe. Had that welded but then noticed smoke at the rear has gotten worse with each drive. Cold light of day you realize in the cab smell was exhaust, out the rear is diesel smell...mainly. Have read a myriad of experiences with exactly same symptoms, from turbo, ecu, glow plugs, primer, filter, injectors etc etc. Some have changed everything possible to find its something hardly related..even at a dealership. Mechanic is leaning to injector...but even performing a leak test wont give true picture...advice change all...but thats 1000 quid just for parts... Like everybody I love the thing ..but theyre a pig to diagnose.
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Searched on this, web is full of turbo to injector to glow plus etc etc etc Starts great, revs to full no problem, pick up great, runs fine..No hesitations at all, idle revs sit where they should Cold or warm starts the same, no smoke on start up to speak of. Sit and idle ok...30 seconds smoke begins [light blue smells of diesel] Drive away and boot it, smoke clears and does not return again until it's idled for half minute. I read a blog by vm specialist [or so he says] He remarked test everything. But, he says tips on these engines [to do with lube/oiling] on starting sit and wait for at least 30 secs, before switching off sit and wait 45 secs...more if long trip and hot weather or continuous fast driving. Heck of a long piece...Goes into great detail about spindles, turbos, gears etc etc etc One thing thought was funny. Some guy changed evertthing...even turbo over a 2 month period to no avail. Guy turned the primer 1/4 turn and felt pressure change...Instant cure Is it true..no idea. Anyway, any views on my smoke thingy...hope its glow as injectors are silly money although found bosch usa are $364 for 4....[in the Jeep Liberty there..not the town and country]. tKS
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Searched on this, web is full of turbo to injector to glow plus etc etc etc Starts great, revs to full no problem, pick up great, runs fine..No hesitations at all, idle revs sit where they should Cold or warm starts the same, no smoke on start up to speak of. Sit and idle ok...30 seconds smoke begins [light blue smells of diesel] Drive away and boot it, smoke clears and does not return again until it's idled for half minute. I read a blog by vm specialist [or so he says] He remarked test everything. But, he says tips on these engines [to do with lube/oiling] on starting sit and wait for at least 30 secs, before switching off sit and wait 45 secs...more if long trip and hot weather or continuous fast driving. Heck of a long piece...Goes into great detail about spindles, turbos, gears etc etc etc One thing thought was funny. Some guy changed evertthing...even turbo over a 2 month period to no avail. Guy turned the primer 1/4 turn and felt pressure change...Instant cure Is it true..no idea. Anyway, any views on my smoke thingy...hope its glow as injectors are silly money although found bosch usa are $364 for 4....[in the Jeep Liberty there..not the town and country]. tKS
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Searched on this, web is full of turbo to injector to glow plus etc etc etc Starts great, revs to full no problem, pick up great, runs fine..No hesitations at all, idle revs sit where they should Cold or warm starts the same, no smoke on start up to speak of. Sit and idle ok...30 seconds smoke begins [light blue smells of diesel] Drive away and boot it, smoke clears and does not return again until it's idled for half minute. I read a blog by vm specialist [or so he says] He remarked test everything. But, he says tips on these engines [to do with lube/oiling] on starting sit and wait for at least 30 secs, before switching off sit and wait 45 secs...more if long trip and hot weather or continuous fast driving. Heck of a long piece...Goes into great detail about spindles, turbos, gears etc etc etc One thing thought was funny. Some guy changed evertthing...even turbo over a 2 month period to no avail. Guy turned the primer 1/4 turn and felt pressure change...Instant cure Is it true..no idea. Anyway, any views on my smoke thingy...hope its glow as injectors are silly money although found bosch usa are $364 for 4....[in the Jeep Liberty there..not the town and country]. tKS
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Smoke..Was wrong. Appears on tick-over then clears once moving Its diesel, am told possible dripping injector...Checked, prices are cost of a car lol.
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The pipe...found it at jeepchryslerparts Plenty in stock...appears the sell a lot....
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Hi all. Had exhaust fumes in cab [initially thought webasto] Found it to be a short stainless steel pipe from egr returning to engine/exhaust. It's very sharp return. its only maybe 1mm thick and maybe 7cm diameter. Anyway mechanic welded the break/crack, its at the flange'd end. To be honest looks like a design fault to me. Anybody know the name/part number...and if you can actually get them... as the weld changes shape slightly. Also smoke on first start up in the morning. This has just started, drive half mile and and its gone. Mechanic says its diesel?? Tks in advance for any help
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Hi all. Had exhaust fumes in cab [initially thought webasto] Found it to be a short stainless steel pipe from egr returning to engine/exhaust. It's very sharp return. its only maybe 1mm thick and maybe 7cm diameter. Anyway mechanic welded the break/crack, its at the flange'd end. To be honest looks like a design fault to me. Anybody know the name/part number...and if you can actually get them... as the weld changes shape slightly. Also smoke on first start up in the morning. This has just started, drive half mile and and its gone. Mechanic says its diesel?? Tks in advance for any help
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Hi all. Had exhaust fumes in cab [initially thought webasto] Found it to be a short stainless steel pipe from egr returning to engine/exhaust. It's very sharp return. its only maybe 1mm thick and maybe 7cm diameter. Anyway mechanic welded the break/crack, its at the flange'd end. To be honest looks like a design fault to me. Anybody know the name/part number...and if you can actually get them... as the weld changes shape slightly. Also smoke on first start up in the morning. This has just started, drive half mile and and its gone. Mechanic says its diesel?? Tks in advance for any help
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Hi all. Had exhaust fumes in cab [initially thought webasto] Found it to be a short stainless steel pipe from egr returning to engine/exhaust. It's very sharp return. its only maybe 1mm thick and maybe 7cm diameter. Anyway mechanic welded the break/crack, its at the flange'd end. To be honest looks like a design fault to me. Anybody know the name/part number...and if you can actually get them... as the weld changes shape slightly. Also smoke on first start up in the morning. This has just started, drive half mile and and its gone. Mechanic says its diesel?? Tks in advance for any help
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Hi all. Had exhaust fumes in cab [initially thought webasto] Found it to be a short stainless steel pipe from egr returning to engine/exhaust. It's very sharp return. its only maybe 1mm thick and maybe 7cm diameter. Anyway mechanic welded the break/crack, its at the flange'd end. To be honest looks like a design fault to me. Anybody know the name/part number...and if you can actually get them... as the weld changes shape slightly. Also smoke on first start up in the morning. This has just started, drive half mile and and its gone. Mechanic says its diesel?? Tks in advance for any help
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Can I be lazy and ask location of the Webasto rather than crawl around....[maybe flexi prob...white smoke under bonnet..and fumes in cab, but only first start if aux is engaged otherwise not]
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Thanks for that Having it up on ramp next week [my local mot spot] to have sill repair and handbrake adjustment, good time to deal with this too.
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Webasto....Any kind of filtering system?... Work fine and as should. However I have fumes, first thought maybe manifold etc etc then noticed only when the aux heater kicks on in cold weather. Not noticeable when moving [obvious reasons] Tks
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Rear Self Leveling Shocks
brit644 replied to Daz264's question in Voyager 4th Generation (2001-2007)
Have a friend in the business [uSA] tells me these are made by Munroe in Mexico for Chrysler. They do a 'generic' but do not say what they fit [licence issues]..You can find them but not easy..[did have the munroe part number but cant find] Anyway they are less than half price Nivomat....and even less if you dont use RockAuto [lived in USA off n on...dont know anyone that uses them..kill ya on shipping] -
2.8 Crd Grand Voyager Thermostat Housing
brit644 replied to woodsy0810's question in Voyager 4th Generation (2001-2007)
On the year/model thing..Not sure if US manufacturers do it USA way....Buy a car today and its the 2021 model..Of course its a selling/pitch thing. Makes ya think you're getting something afore ya should. -
2.8 Crd Grand Voyager Thermostat Housing
brit644 replied to woodsy0810's question in Voyager 4th Generation (2001-2007)
Dominoes......We tried without the wire/sensor connected, threw all kinds of codes [inc egr solenoid as open ground..which I had just installed new month afore] Appears everything is linked to everything..That sensor just adds another degree of pain. I watched as mechanic got stuck in, saw what a pig it is and told him change everything as you back-out from the bulkhead. Im lucky, he lets me source my parts [like the egr solenoid...paid 14 dollars from chrysler usa...Uk...40 quid used] -
2.8 Crd Grand Voyager Thermostat Housing
brit644 replied to woodsy0810's question in Voyager 4th Generation (2001-2007)
The therm you need does have sensor . It changed mid year due to EU regs....Only way is vin number NOT reg [dont forget these gv's were made in Austria] I bought the therm [correct one] which does not come with sensor [they assume you will use old one] the sensor was 20 quid or so, so bought both Part number 68045469aa [312634794576] [from jeepchryslerparts] They dont make them anymore, They bring them in 3-4 per shipment from USA so need to get an order in as waiting list Was 129.95 plus sensor This therm is different, It is not stuck open as default..twas half shut, consequently had the 'hill engine gets hot' thing going on. -
Yeh...a word comes to mind beginning with c ends in p. See my point, the tow capacity is less than the vehicle weighs....My 7k vehicle has a 10K cap I was going to say appears something with a frame/chassis tows more but in the US anything from Land Rover is considered poor choice for towing. Back in the 90's had an old crew cab Chevy pick up [85] 454 ci [7.4l] gooseneck fit. Had a 38ft flatbed n fit 2 swb 1 lwb rovers on. Trundled on with ease. But with a 4.10 back end twas 9 mpg. Fuel prices shot up n sold it to a guy who ripped the engine [for racing dragstrip] and installed a 5.7l. I had 400k miles on tat thing without a rebuild.... Have to say in the year have owned the gv Ive loved it. Have spent maybe 2500 [and thats me getting the parts] My opinion is that when something goes change everything around it. Changed the therm, changed everything on the way to it. Changed the shocks..changed hubs etc on the way to them. Changed the alternator...and everything around it.....Yes I know..parts prices. Tip...RockAuto in US is known for cheap prices..and extortionate shipping...Ive never ever used em. Any local autoparts will take your money and ship to UK... I bought a part from Chrysler dealer..8 dollars, they shipped for 4 quid..Cheapest in UK...45 quid used on ebay.
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For equivalent model that is. I've had a Suburban for years, maybe use it for 500 miles a year. Had 12k ibs on the back...pulls on tick-over revs [course its a 454] Horse powers only 200..torque tho 400. How do they work it...the figures. What does a G.V. weigh and what is allowed towing cap. My suburban weighs 7k lbs but official cap for towing is 10k lbs Mmmm Well, found a Silver Streak [better than an Airstream] for 1000 dollars...but its 26ft..Too long for a GV..and 5k lbs...too heavy A GV. Time for rethink Btw..Tks for the comments.
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You are right..Surprisingly the very same figures in the USA [E
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Just been told 1500kg is tow-able limit. Doesn't seem much at all....
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Never towed nor have fitted tow-bar etc in UK Will be importing travel trailer [caravan] from the US... Am just looking up rules/regs for UK changes...Appear to be many. 2007 2.8 stow n go. Has this vehicle towing set-up...meaning wires tucked away for a 7 pin. Also is there such a thing as in-cab brake controller [after market] Works off pedal, also has digital adjuster, allows for adjustment re weight of trailer etc. [electric of course] Does the hitch have to be the swan neck thingy. Tks for any help Keith
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Developed an exhaust manifold leak...assume its a gasket Anybody had experience dealing with this.... Thanks
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Thanks for all notes/replies Had it at my local mechs for a full day...Was the damn battery..new one at that with only 500 ml on it Changed the battery..perfect since