biscuit

Carrying on with the ABS problem I got two codes initially UOA96FF and B2F968D, which the code reader said it was no signal from front right sensor and no link through the computer. Replaced sensor and the light is still on but it’s thrown up code UOA9601 no signal? But I can’t find these codes on any list and wondered if anyone has a Chrysler own list.

According to the app and talking to Autel themselves it does everything the Mk808 (expensive) does and I must admit when I used it for an abs fault it seemed to go through all the systems.

Hi fans, I have just bought an Autel AP200 Bluetooth code reader and it actually reads the Voyager including ABS etc. The cost is around the mid £50’s but make sure it mentions mk808 as there are cheaper versions about which doesn’t cover a lot. I’m using an iPhone with it but it says it works on android phones.

Thank you gents I have read your advice regarding battery condition, I should have remembered that I had an XJ8 that would fire up easily and charging was spot on but the asc light and trac light would stay on. I changed the battery all was fine and all the lights stayed off. Just to confuse me I did a 40 mile round trip yesterday with two stops and the abs light stayed on, I basically did the same trip today the abs light went off and stayed off! I’m sure it’s playing with me. I will look back at advice on a new battery but it will have to wait a couple of weeks I’m broke after the front suspenders.

I probably misled you but ever since buying the Voyager it’s done the clock needles spin round twice before starting. I have been getting various jobs done ie radiator, new front suspenders etc, so thought I would do the button mod. Having done it the starting from cold has improved and where the abs light has stayed on before mod, all of a sudden it went out and stayed off. Then the other day I stopped for about 15 mins then going to start it, the needles spun round before starting and the abs light stayed on. It’s not doing anything new it’s just reverted back to what it was doing prior to doing the battery mod! I will borrow an obd11 scanner and see what it comes up with regarding abs light. You can tell the mot is coming up.

Yet another headache! I’ve done the resistor mod for the battery and all seems okay but if you do a run, stop a short while go to start and the needles go round the clocks twice before I can start it. It also makes the abs light stay on. It’s been off for days but when I had the problem yesterday the abs light came on and stayed on. The battery is still well charged so I’m head scratching, any ideas please?

New struts and mountings fitted and all the unwanted noises have gone plus the car is so much smoother to steer. Mot is due at the end of August so a couple of minor jobs to do. So having done the radiator the car is running quite well at the moment. Thanks all for your advice.

It’s a diesel, jeep Chrysler offered me a deal of £102.00 for pair of struts, top mounts and bearings so have bought them, we shall see how long they last. Strangely I took one strut off today to find the mounting hole has elongated in the top mount! I’m rather mystified but have made a temporary fix with old mount, sounds and feels a little better, just have to wait for new stuff to come.

Can I ask you gentlemen what brand of struts do you recommend? I have seen a pair plus top mounts for under £120 the pair from Jeep Chrysler parts, but have heard their parts are a bit suspect.

Hi Gordy, have just changed anti roll bar bushes when the inner and outer track ends were changed the mechanic said the lower arm were fine and it had just gone through a MOT? I have just been out and lifted at the front wheel arches and there’s a light clonk at the top end of the strut, so I have a feeling the top mounts and bearings I fitted last year may have failed. There was no noise at the bottom of the strut. I’ll take one strut off rain permitting and have a look.

Anti roll bar bushes fitted after a marathon event including having to split the nuts. Guess what the noises are still there absolutely no difference. Would the struts make this sort of noise? I am also getting a wheel vibration above 55mph which has only just started pre anti roll bar work.

From cold the engine fires up and runs okay but when warm it fires up then dies, I have to catch it as it fires with the throttle then it runs fine. I don’t have any experience of diesels so any help /advice appreciated. It’s a 2005 voyager 2.8 crd and there is no fault codes.

At last I have fitted a new rad, flushed and filled with new Hoat plus distilled water and touch wood the temp gauge rises to just below half and there she stays so hopefully that’s sorted. Now after a bit of help I don’t want the bother or expense of changing the audio system but want to play my I phone via plug lead, has anyone modded their unit and how. I gather you have to pull the unit out and solder in the new lead, anyone know which wires you need to use please?

I’m slowly losing the will to live, I have noises like a heavy typewriter from the front suspension. I have replaced top shocker mounts, inner and outer tie rods and anti roll bar links, suspension bushes feel okay and was checked during mot and by garage who did the inner tie rods and seem okay. Help?

Hi, I did a little research which left me a bit confused ( not difficult these days) I just wondered if anyone had tried it on a diesel. But yes I have started looking into re mapping it’s a lot simpler than a lpg conversion and cheaper which always helps! Right I will start looking round.