Gordon

Hi the car is id ot wa and running I made the fatal error of using Dexron III in the auto box!!!!!!! Gear change was terrible. Sucked out the Dexron and filled with Mopar ATF+4 it is the only fluid that works. Finaly the car is working. .Having had a 2.4 I had to work out where to go on the stow and go.

Hi I have managed to fit the turbo on my GV 2.8 I had to take out the driveshaft o/s and the chassis plate from below the air inlet hose jubilee clip is accessed from there. There are 4 x no 12 nuts and studs on the exhaust and there are 4 x no 12 nuts on the exhaust inlet of the turbo the oil outlet bolts are no 8 x 2 put a new gasket set on and remember there are two copper washers on the oil inlet no 14 bolt having put that lot in I now need to flush the cooling system as there was a lot of debris .And whilst underneath 2 x steering boots and 2 x wishbones complete I am now checking the anti roll drop links and bushes. This GV although being serviced by garages that never really serviced just an oily rag. At the behest of my wife new timing belt and drive belts which should be interesting I managed to get on the web the service imfo from vm with colour photos so if anyone needs it drop me a line it will give me something to do instead of the car

Hi I know this i s late in the day but if you work out the distance between 2 of the studs and the distance back so that if you drill a hole in the drum you can see the adjuster. Take the advice strip the brakes down completely clean the rust off the back plate and wash and clean the handbrake bits check that the cables have not rusted or the PVC sheath has not been compromised.Get a new rear brake mounting kit and sealey make a couple of fantastic tools at a reasonable price on ebay. grease the drum brakes on their friction points as in the manual and check everything moves freely centralise the drum brakes and put the drum on and rotate until you see the adjuster through the 10mm hole. If you make sure that the handbrakes bite just a little and back off so they run free both sidet a slight adjustment this works. I was given this method by an old Chrysler engineer. When you have finished put a piece of metal tape over the holes in the drum. I really need to takes photos and post this method but i am disabled and it takes time to do jobs

Hi I am back again the one thing that has helped is I downloaded a copy of the 2.5/2.8crd, 2.4/3.3 manual. Without stripping out a lot of engine you need to go from the top and the bottom of the engine. I gradually removed the pipework until I could see the exhaust manifold heatshield there are 4 x 10 bolts on the top and two horizontally which are also for the engine lifting bracket. I wish I had an induction heater for loosening them [This is a project I am currently working on an economic induction heater]. When you remove the shield you can see the turbo properly there are 3 studs no 12 horizontally from the exhaust pipe and there are 4studs no 10 vertically from the exhaust mcd anifold you can only get at 2 from the top. There is a jubilee clip that you need to release to remove the silicon hose for the turbo. And there is also a No 13 on the oil pipe on top. I noticed that there was not a jubilee clip on the air inlet pipe strange? . Now comes the fun to get at the bottom of the turbo last 2 no 10 and also the oil inlet pipe you have to go underneath! Too remove the steel plate there are 8 x no 21 nut and bolts, 4 x no 15 1x 18 and 3x no 13 you also need to spray some free release on to the threads of the 2 x 21 Rubber isolated mounts to chassis ,if you crawl underneath and look up above the bolt in the chassis is an access point so you can spray the thread. My luck one of the bolts snapped so I am going to hacksaw the bolt out and make a new bolt. You can now go up with a long extention and remove the 2 nuts that is my job today. I will try to get some photos up as the next job will be the timing belt. Out of interest has anyone fitted a 4x cam cctv and reversing system?

I agree I am renovating the 2.8 GV 2007 I picked up The inlet manifold was nearly clogged up completely with Muck I dug it all out. On the EGR exhaust valve was stuck I cleared the carbon debris off the shaft and checked its operation with a vacuum gun sweet the exhaust valve worked and it held vacuum. next task was the butterfly valve and the rest of the body again i checked it with a vacuum gun and it performed with the help of some carb spray and a toothpick. Now that task is done I am now going to come up from underneath to take out the turbo it seems impossible from above although someone must have done it that way . I will try to do some photos to record this event.

Hi I am just starting the renovation on a 2007 2.8 Grand Voyager. If you are looking for a luxury vehicle that can hold all the family + the wifes shopping and handbag there is nothing like it. I was going to finish renovating my 2005 2.4 Voyager so far, complete front suspension [ struts,top hats,drop links bushes and wish bones tie rods,track rod ends and boots]] Rear suspension [ struts, panhard bushes, droplinks, anti roll bushes and the leaf spring bushes] Brakes discs all round,brake pipes,handbrake cables and brake pads. New clutch ,thrust bearing and renovating clutch master and slave cylinders, Rear door locks and upgrade internal lighting to LED. As you can see my next area was bodywork but unfortunatly my Arthritis has forced me to an auto. So I now have a new renovation project but first I need a workshop manual on the 2.8 I will try to make a series of articles on the renovation work. Lets face it there is no other car like a Voyager even the old matra espace cannot beat them. Fiat has made a huge error in not continuing the Voyager in the UK just like Renault closing Matra! The Voyager is one of the simplest cars to work on you just have to be logical. So hopefully you will see some topics from me

This is my first posting and it is something I should have done a long time ago, Let me introduce myself I am a retired commercial Audio Visual Engineer. But what has that to do with an automobile exactly! I started life as a lowly Apprentice and the training was on Domestic products as well as TVs and Radios HiFi had just started Thermionic Valves through to Surface Mount Components Technology. But the relevance was to touch to smell and to use your brain to think round the problem . In otherwords use your senses and keep it simple that is what made a good engineer. During my childhood my Father instilled the basics of auto engineering he had trained engineers on Rolls Royce Merlins during the war and that groundeing hh e instilled in me. I started off with Volvos 140 series to the 340's as well as the mini!. The next progression was the Renault Espace a brilliant conception by Matra I cut my teeth on those up until a Mk4. That was when I converted to Chrysler 2 Voyagers and now I am renovating a Grand Voyager 2.8 2007. It is belowing fumes and smoke as well as the usual electrical door problems. I now have to start writing some articles to help others . PS my wife drives a 2.4 auto PT Cruiser a mini Voyager. So Hello from Gordon