chrisdavisberry

Hi Nev, Sorry i missed your original reply. Thats for getting in touch. The issue is still going on and still no joy. Reconeecting the battery made no difference. But i have no idea what sequence i need to foillow to resync the fob... even it the car was in a state to accept it. I tried removing the fuse you mentioned a couple of times... once for around 30 minutes and the next time for about 8 hours. The situation at the moment is every time i unlock the car (key in door) it sets the alarm off until i put the key in and start it. Then the alarm stops. I have no idea what the correct sequence/ key dance should be to get it to resync the fob. Ive tried various but I suspect ther eis one cmbination that works and ive just not found it. Any ideas would be really appreciated. Thanks again Chris

Hi, I had a flat battery on my Chrsyler Grand Voyager 2.8 Diesil (2006). It wasnt totally flat but the alarm was sounding and would not disable when pressing the remote. I had to disconnect the battery to stop it. I then removed the battery to charge inside. After reconnecting the next day the alarm sounded but switched off when I put the key in the ignition and start the car. But the issue is that my key is not now synced. I opnly have one key. NOTE This did happen a few years ago when i had a battery drain. Eventually it resynced. I think by disconnecting the battery, charging and reconnecting - but i cant remember what steps resynced the remote. Althjough i think I may have had the key in the ignition when i reconnected the battery and possibly have double clicked the remote before starting the car... just a guess though really. I only have one remote/ one key. The car starts and runs fine. Just no remote which is a hassle. Does anyone have a recommendation about how to resync. I've search other posts and looked online but not found a solution that works yet. Currently the car battery is removed (has been for the last few hours) and i'm hoping i can reset once reconnecting the battery. Any help is huigely appreciated. Thanks Chris

Hi Dan, Great news. Where did you find the amp? I'm guessing you plugged in the new one to test in place of the old. Have you got a link or image I could see to know what the part looks like when i go looking for it!. Thanks Chris

Hi Dan, I still have the issue with the difference now that the sound has stopped altogether. It was intermittent for a few weeks/ days (i don't drive it that often!) Likewise all fuses look okay and no other odd electrical behaviour. I put the intermittent play down to some part failing rather than a loose connection. I know the voyager sometimes reroutes electrics when something fails. It can make it hard to diagnose the cause of electrical issues. But i don't think this is causing the issues. I've also read about lots of people looking for the amp and never finding it... with various others telling people its on the back of one of the speakers... including the front. I read about one owner who just changed the head unit (like for like) and it worked. The fault being in the head unit itself. I think im going to try that route first. Ill post a pic of my radio though. I think it's standard. Keep me posted about anything you find and i'll do the same. Cheers Chris

A recent issue i have started having is with my speakers playing for a few seconds then cutting out. When they play they play as they always have. My theory is that there is an electrical issue else where (maybe as simple as a blown fuse) and something about how the Chrysler GV electrics try to re-route things when there is a fault is causing the speakers to go off. The radio functions as it should just no sound. I did disconnect the battery a few days ago (after fixing an ABS sensor which has now got rid of the ABS light). Any suggestions about how to even begin approaching this though? Thanks Chris

The pipe is sold as a Thermostat pipe (lower). Chrysler parts supplied didnt have a name other than a Thermostat hose.

Its a Thermostat pipe. Found it - its leaking and replacement on the way. For anyone else access is from the top!

HI Sentech- Long shot here but i wondered how you got the pic from above of the hose below the thermostat? This seems to have split on mine but i cant get any sort of access from above to it. Its on a ramp so might be able to do the fix from below but just thought id see. I also need to get the Inlet Pipe to the Turbo removed. Ive got the bottom clip off but wondering now if it will left out from above? If you can remember anything about it it would be really helpful. Cheers Chris

Best guess so far is lower thermostat pipe. I then found another image on this forum for the same pipe. This is taken from above so shows the top pipe connection. Does anyone else agree this is a Lower thermostat pipe and if so any idea how i can get a part number or exact name for it? Thanks

Quick update to this: Someone from eBay said "looks like the lower thermostat pipe" I then found another image on this forum for the same pipe. This is taken from above so shows the top pipe connection. Does anyone else agree this is a Lower thermostat pipe and if so any idea how i can get a part number or exact name for it? Thanks

Hi - Definitely not from the water pump O ring. I've seen that before with water around the pulley side. My leak is right round the back of the engine and related to a hose. See pic for possible culprit although i'm at a loss what it is. Just not sure what it is (or why its gone!) Thanks

Hi, Have you found the radiator change completely resolved the temp? I'm wondering if i should replace mine soon for a new one. Because its never actually gone to red i've got use to it but a new rad might be worth doing whilst im trying to fix other cooling related issues. Thanks Chris

This image could be an image of the hose. Can anyone: name it or the part it connects to suggest a diagram/system to look for. Thanks

I found one other image which looks as though it could be the hose i'm trying to identify. Its an image from the a turbo issue someone had - but its a 2.5 2004 car - mine is the 2.8 2006. Can anyone identify it or what its connecting to please?

Hi, I have a forum post for a cooling issues (car lost its water). It's quite specific and although i've asked similar there I have started this post to try and get help finding and identifying parts. Specifically i am looking for a cooling system diagram that covers a 2006 2.8 Diesel Grand Voyager. I've downloaded what appeared to be the most relevant manual (all 2400+ ages of it) but i cant find the part on there. Please see the attachments for the best description of the part i'm trying to identify: In image looking up: Location: behind the engine on the drivers side looking up past the oil filter. Close by: there is a semi rigid large pipe (possible turbo pipe?) Approx diameter is 5cm. Just out of shot on the left this pipe connects to a manifold via a jubilee clip. I've undone this and it comes of the manifold easily but there isn't much movement to move the pipe completely out of the way. Above it is a rubber cooling system pipe. This is leaking on my car dripping cooling fluid. I did manage to get my hand onto it and could feel a jubillee clip on that facing the front of the car. Does anyone know what this pipe is? Does it have a name? I'm sure i'll need a new one but don't know what it is or how to find describe it. I don't know where either end is going to. Any idea? If i could see a diagram or part numbers i should be able to pin point it. Or does anyone know where i can get a good cooling system diagram or parts diagram. Thanks Chris

Hi - I know this isn't hugely helpful but I have the same issue and having worried about it for a long time I was eventually told it is actually in the manual for the car. A quick check (sorry not sure the page number) and yes it actually says the car temp gauge will go up and then come back down. It has the helpful tip of pulling over and stopping if it reaches the red until it cools down enough. Having worried about this on my own and tried heater trick etc... I stopped doing anything about it and after 2 years its never overheated into the red. Its got close but then something has kicked in i think and brought it back down to a reasonable level. The only thing I did do was add WaterWetter additive which lowers the overall temp slightly ( maybe 5 degrees) . its on amazon. Its not a fix but it does take the stress away! Cheers Chris

So - i found the issue but i don't know what the pipe is... or how best to access it... Even when the car was on a proper ramp. Images will help here: See two attachments. How best to describe... (shown in image looking up).... We are talking about an area behind the engine on the driers side... From under the car facing forward there is a semi rigid large pipe (possible turbo pipe?) Approx diameter is 5cm). Just out of shot on the left it connects to a manifold via a jubilee clip. Ive undone this but there isnt much movement to move the pip completely out of the way. Above it is a rubber cooling system pipe. This is leaking somehow. But i cant see it clearly. I did manage to get my hand onto it and could feel a jubillee clip on that facing the front of the car.... but i cant see where its leaking from or even if it is properly attached. Does anyone know what this pipe is? Does it have a name? Im sure i'll need a new one but don't know what it is or how to find describe it. I don't know where either end is going to. I can't find a diagram of this part of the system even in the large manual. If i could see a diagram or part numbers i should be able to pin point it. (my car is the 2.8 diesel 2006) Any ideas anyone please? Thanks Chris

Hi, Mine turned out to be a loose piece of metal on the rear lights cluster. (my symptoms were erratic electrics and even occasional loss of power). I eventually niticed if it was put in reverse it was worse so guessed it might be linked to the rear lights clusters. I had it worse on the left (odd electrical behaviour) but i swapped the two clusters over and it all changed - and then I spotted a loose piece of metal bridging the contact points on the light cluster. They are easy to remove and check so worth a shot i'd say. Replacement was £20 of ebay Cheers Chris

Hi, Today my grand voyager suddenly smoked out the back and a little under the hood for about 1 seconds. I was going up a steep hill... no loss of power or any other sign. When i got home ( about 1 min down the road) i noticed the water was gone from the coolant bottle. Checked the pistons- they looked fine (panic over re head) - then after a few mins i restarted and it dripped/poured a load more water (approximately 1 litre a min id guess)... from somewhere behind the engine on the driver side - but at the back of the engine bay and out of site from above. Inspection from top and a crawl underneath and I can't see where its coming from yet but will refill and look tomorrow. Does anyone have any ideas what could have caused such a sudden loss.. I'm hoping a loose hose and this caused it to steamed on the hot engine causing the cloud out back) ??? Anything else to look for though? Thanks Chris

Hi - Sorry not an expert here but my one turned out to be leak in the oil cooler. Leaking head should lead to water in the engine (frothy etc when you look into the oil cap) It was wrongly diagnosed by a garage and they rebuilt the head before i bought it as scrap. My investigations led to the oil cooler - search it on ebay. They claimed they pressure tested the oil cooler first but ive read about garages doing it wrongly an not detecting pin holes in it as they don't do it when its hot. I had a garage replace the part £50 from ebay) its easy for them to get to and flush the whole rad system. Hope this helps Chris

I have a 2006 2.8 CRD Grand Voyager I have one issue with it I cant resolve. On hills the car heats up excessively nearing the red line - returning to normal once things level out. When i'm on the flat, small hills, driving steady, motorway driving or sat in traffic the car is fine and the temperature sits around halfway. I've check the fans after driving up a hill and when the temperature is nearing the red and they are both running really fast. The car has not actually ever gone into the red... but then again ive not been up a long 5 mins+ hill to test it. The radiator water is clean, and radiator flushed through without blockage and has new coolant. I've started to suspect the fans should kick in sooner that they do? Is there a low level fan that should come on? ie i think the fans dont kick in until it gets really warm.... whereas i would expect them to kick in when the temperature starts to rise a little way above middle to regulate it. Its hard to test this but when ive seen the temperature just going over middle of the gauge (if ive been able to stop and check) ive noticed no fans running. Any suggestions from anyone would be greatly appreciated. Thanks Chris

Today I have been drying all connectors and stripping the wiring loom where i know it got soaked. Having put it all together there was no sign of the engine management fault but I still had the electrical error on the indicator/rear lights etc. As it was all on the left i was trying to isolate that by pulling fuses and testing the car with different fuses out. When i had the RT Park/Tail & the LF Park/Tail fuses removed - I noticed I was now only getting the odd lights / fast indicator symptom when I engaged the car in reverse. I rechecked all the bulbs and found no error. But on removing the left indicator bulb i spotted the lights were dimming etc as i touched or moved the light block. I spotted the rear light cluster cable connection was slightly loose and the securing clip has been previously damaged. I swapped the unit for the one on the right of the vehicle (including the indicator bulb from that side) and all appears to be okay/ normal now with the lights... although i broke a bulb whilst removing it so need to replace this in the morning. It appears the rear cluster could have been causing the lights error. Because it has coincided with me stripping and drying the engine connections and loom, I am not sure whether it could have been the cause of the engine management light and the cut out? I am re-taping the loom tomorrow and will test drive the car after this. As well as collecting a replacement bulb to confirm all the electrics are working as normal. I will keep you posted here about how it goes but fingers crossed I could be getting closer to solving this. Thanks for all the help and suggestions its kept me going!!!

Hi, No It's fine on idle and a lot of the time when driving. But the issue does arise when repeatedly selecting drive, reverse, low or 3rd - but only occasionally. I can see the drop in power at this point and it could be linked to the cut out. I'm sure its all electrical and water related. I have not taking the wiring loom apart yet. There is a major joint area which i would have soaked when i overflowed the coolant bottle. I dont know whats in there yet but i assumed it was only the wires all coming together for safe routing rather than any actual connections. within the wiring loom itself. Cheers Chris

One more update: Today the auto gearbox display started behaving oddly. On park the usual square indicator to mark the selected gear was displayed on all gears. Once selected only one gear showed. It then kept doing this until the engine light came on. After restarting the display was back to normal. The same issue persists with low electrics on the left side (passenger) of the vehicle. I suspect Andy's note about the autobox controller (TCM) - i assume this is the Transmission Control Unit - could be the key here. I did take of the connector but i'm now wondering if water can get into the actual box itself via the connector. I have never seen inside one but it does have a load of screws on what looks like the cover so i assume it can be unscrewed. If its got water in would it be ruined and need a new one? Or could it be dried. Thanks

Quick update (checking for wet connections etc): I got access to the autobox controller (TCM) and removed the connector. It was looking a little wet (nothing pooled but damp). I got a dryer on the pins and connector for 10 mins but no obvious change once it was all back together. Maybe its not dry enough. I will leave the car to idol tomorrow to create some heat. Things left to check re wet connections etc The main wiring loom is so tightly wrapped i haven't undone the largest part to check for any potential water issues. Its the last place i have left to check for water... but unless there is a damaged wire/s i don't see that this will be the cause of the issues even if it is wet. Extra Information/Clarification I mentioned the double speed indicators in my first post. I'm thinking this could be misleading as its only one of a few symptoms but all evident on the left hand side of the car's electrics: If I brake with the lights on the whole left light cluster is dimmer and flickering slightly. Even with just lights on the left (passenger side) lights appear slightly dimmer than the right. Electrics on right seem fine. Engine management light: This goes off after a while when the car idols but I have manged to get it to come back on by repeatedly going into drive and reverse (just a few meters) a few times. I am assuming the two issues engine management light and lack of available current for electrics are related. The lack of power causing the car to cut out. Interior bulb out I have spotted on bulb out on the passenger side reading light - well its not working at all so im assuming a bulb has gone - but it seems unlikely this is causing the issue but i will get it changed anyway. Any ideas? I would like to understand why the symptoms all show on the left not the right. Does it help narrow down the fault?